# Seamaster F300 Questions



## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

Will sort pics out tomorrow, but I picked up an SMf300 off ebay that arrived this week.

I knew it was in very bad condition and missing several parts from the seller's photos, but have enough spares (or so I thought)...

Deskdivers says that the clasp is 1178/182 and I have one of those that came off a Seamaster cone bracelet. It doesn't fit though.

Comparing the end link to my Titus f300 (supposedly same case and bracelet), the Titus has a narrower end link and would take the 1178/182 clasp that I have, but the bracelet on the seamaster (which looks original to me) has wider end links.

So, were there different types of 117/182 and/or were there different end links during the production run?

Other questions - it has a black dial (or at least it was black before most of the paint fell off). What hand options did Omega offer with that? I've seen pics of silver with white ends and what looks like black with white ends. Did they offer both? If not, which was original?

Also, has anyone found that differences in the case tubes? I replaced the tube on my Titus and managed to drill the broken tube until it was thin enough to prise out with a screwdriver. The replacement tube is just over 2mm diameter. This Seamaster case looks like there is nothing left in the hole but the hole is a lot smaller than 2mm.

Finally, if anyone says that hummers are fragile needs to meet mine. It's had some of the ropiest 'field repairs' I've seen so far (even the dial was glued to the movement - someone cut the dial feet off!). It also arrived with no battery clamp, filthy coils, movement rattling round inside the case and a case clamp stuck to the cups on the tuning fork, rubbing away on the T-coil.

I de-cased it, put it on my test set and it wouldn't run. Then I noticed that I couldn't see the fixed pawl. Removed the adjustable pawl plate and the pawl was scrunched up in a Z shape and knackered. I swapped it for one from a parts watch, gave the fork a twang and it started humming. (Partial) result!

It still wouldn't run, so I stripped it properly, cleaned it and reassembled with an index wheel from another parts watch and away it went! It's sat upstairs now - need to see how well it keeps time.

I still need to go back and check the index wheel that I removed, as it may just have been incorrectly set in the jewel (took me ages to get the replacement in straight).

Given how filthy the movement was and how rusted up the case was, I was amazed that the coils weren't destroyed.


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

Managed to get some photos uploaded this afternoon.

Titus 'SMf300' bracelet and bukle on the left below. Omega Seamaster f300 bracelet and 1178/182 buckle that I have are on the right...










Sat on top of each other (The Omega bracelet is on top) you can see that there are more pronounced shoulders on the Titus end links (and this would fit the Omega buckle that I have), but the Omega has shallower shoulders, so needs a wider buckle...










Buckles overlaid (1178/182 on top), shows their apertures are the same...


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

Who. Me? said:


> Given how filthy the movement was and how rusted up the case was, I was amazed that the coils weren't destroyed.


More often than not, it is the reverse with ESA 9162/4 (Omega f300 etc) coils: they, and the rest of the movement, look immaculate but they test open circuit. It's mystery; at least with Accutron coils, you can see physical damage on those that are open circuit.


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