# One Out Of Two



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

'aint bad.

But .. I would have preferred more.

I bought myself a rolson watch case opener, and that enabled me to open (first time and with no slips/scratches!!) the case of my Seiko 7T32 6M90 watch whose battery had died quite some years ago (I bought it in the duty free shops in Grenada back in 2003 - an impulse buy that in hindsight I wouldn't repeat although it does remind me of that holiday).

I researched and bought the correct battery (SR927W), but having fitted it - the watch is still dead.

Now, with my eyesight and relatively clumsy fingers I may well have done something wrong. I've got a 4x loupe and I can see written on the movement the instructions that after fitting a new battery I have to short the AC and +

So (with the loupe) I can see a very small hole with what looks like a gold stud inside next to which it says AC. So I presume I somehow have to connect this stud to the fitted battery (which has the + side up)?

I've tried, but still no go.

So, was I being a bit ambitious trying this myself, or is there a simple technique for doing this (or could the battery I bought be a dud?). Any suggestions (including send it to an expert) gratefully received.

On the plus side, I have successfully just fitted a new battery to my first 'expensive' watch - a Seiko 5Y37 6010. It cost me Â£325 back in the late 80's and even now I love the look of it. It is happily turning its hands. Now I just need to sort out a new strap because I've no longer got the links I removed when I first got it and my wrists have got just a bit thicker to the point where it's too tight (just - but like a pair of shoes just to small is all it takes).


----------



## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

Try cleaning the battery contacts and moving the winding crown in and out a few times. An opened out paper clip can be used to short out the battery to the "stud" you mention.

Mike


----------



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

tixntox said:


> Try cleaning the battery contacts and moving the winding crown in and out a few times. An opened out paper clip can be used to short out the battery to the "stud" you mention.
> 
> Mike


Thank you Mike for your super fast help. Typically I made two mistakes:

1) I meant to post this in the Japanese forum (doh!!)

If I had done this, I would have seen the posts on the 7T32 movement. These led me to the service manual and better instructions on how to perform this (now I realise) simple operation!!

2) I hadn't got the battery fully seated - there are 2 clips as well as the really obvious top contacts. I didn't have the outside clip over the battery, so I guess it wasn't making proper contact with the bottom contact.

Once I'd taken the battery out, put it back in properly, shorted it out (thanks for the tip with the paperclip - it worked a treat) the watch started ticking!!!

So, now I'm two for two.

(the only downside of tonite was I snapped the stem off my link pin remover that I purchased from RLT a year or so ago - clumsy I know. I'll order a new one tomorrow).


----------



## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

Sir Alan said:


> tixntox said:
> 
> 
> > (the only downside of tonite was I snapped the stem off my link pin remover that I purchased from RLT a year or so ago - clumsy I know. I'll order a new one tomorrow).
> ...


----------



## Retronaut (Jun 14, 2010)

Sir Alan said:


> So, now I'm two for two.


Good work! :thumbsup:


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Sir Alan said:


> 1) I meant to post this in the Japanese forum (doh!!)


If you had done so, I might have replied to it before. 

Could a mod please move it there ? :notworthy:


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Sir Alan said:


> - a Seiko 5Y37 6010. It cost me Â£325 back in the late 80's and even now I love the look of it.


Well, they say there's no accounting for taste, Al. :grin:



Sir Alan said:


> Now I just need to sort out a new strap because I've no longer got the links I removed when I first got it ....


Well, presuming you still have the original bracelet - it must look something like this:










The ideal solution would be to find a NOS original bracelet or spare links for your existing bracelet. :search:

Here's the part numbers:










Doesn't look very encouraging, does it ?


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

13mm lug width fixing bracelets with curved end pieces aren't very common. :thumbsdown:

If you just want to get it on your wrist again, as a short term fix, you could think about fitting ....

A Spiedel Twist-o-Flex, like eBay item # 270873528917 - which might suit the watch.

Don't worry that that one is an 18mm fixing, they are relatively easy to narrow down to the desired width ....

with a couple of deft passes with a Dremel Moto-tool, or similar, fitted with a small cut-off wheel. :butcher:

Or one of the Darlena equivalents: http://www.darlena.co.uk/pdfs/Bracelets.pdf - many of which are stocked by Cousins.


----------



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

SEIKO7A38 said:


> Well, they say there's no accounting for taste, Al. :grin:


they also say beauty is in the eye of the beholder. :wink2:

I do like the 'complication' - mostly just trying to read the time (it's a knack).



SEIKO7A38 said:


> The ideal solution would be to find a NOS original bracelet or spare links for your existing bracelet. :search:
> 
> Doesn't look very encouraging, does it ?


nope 

I think it's time to find an alternative solution........ (I was never too keen on the bracelet)

Some preliminary searching brings up a few examples of this watch on a leather strap, with a step to fit into the lug (13mm) and run flush to the outside lug width (21mm).


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Sir Alan said:


> with a step to fit into the lug (13mm) and run flush to the outside lug width (21mm).


Are you sure the original bracelet was 21mm deep ? It doesn't look that wide. 

Do you still have the original bracelet, intact ? Is it presentable ?

How many more adjustment links do you need, if you were to keep it on ?



Sir Alan said:


> Some preliminary searching brings up a few examples of this watch on a leather strap, with a step to fit ....


A 'cut' leather strap would be the easiest solution, of course.

Looks like Seiko may actually have fitted those on another 5Y37-6000 model. See: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f5/seiko-24hr-levante-maritime-482529.html

Indeed they did, on the J3 suffix product code - same 13mm lug width fixing too:










Unfortunately ....


----------



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

I haven't measured the bracelet









(got these numbers when I was searching ..... )

I have the original bracelet - all intact and in very good condition. I would say (from eye) that there is at least 3mm either side (so at least 19mm width) - but it could be 4mm either side (so 21mm).

It's very tight (but I can do it up) - so at least one link needed, preferably two.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.


----------



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

I guess I could look to get a custom strap made up?

I've seen several references lately to leather (and other materials) strap makers (TSS?)


----------



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

Some pics of the Seiko Levante (5Y37 6010):


----------

