# Accutron 218



## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

One for Silver Hawk me thinks....

Recently picked this up from Ron

Accutron 218

Duly sent off for a suitable replacement battery via The Bay.... battery rec'd.....bugger.... not working....









As Ron said in his post, the innards all look OK.

Any ideas or suggestions on what is likely to be wrong?

Quite ironic too as the 710 saw it and said that she liked it, had I got a black strap to go with it, etc! Actually it'd be quite nice to get it up and going again as it's Fiona's birthday soon......


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

Hopefully this won't damage a 218, but a tip passed on by Foztex is the '3 O'Clock Tap'.

I did it this way...

Put the new battery in and the caseback back on. Pull the hands out to the hacking position. Tap the watch firmly at the 3 o'clock position against something that won't damage the case. Push the crown in.

Not sure if you need to hack the second hand to get this to work, but it worked for me that way.

Basically the electromagnets don't have the guts to start the tuning fork from a standing start. Tapping the case at 3 o'clock starts the fork vibrating, then the magnets and the timing circuit can bring the fork up to speed and maintain it.

Worth a try before trying anything else. Worked for me. A great tip from Foz.

Edit to say, this worked on my F300 after I had the movement out to replace the crystal. Hopefully it works the same on a 218 (both are tuning forks).


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

Who. Me? said:


> Hopefully this won't damage a 218, but a tip passed on by Foztex is the '3 O'Clock Tap'.
> 
> I did it this way...
> 
> ...


That's a coincidence! I was having another look at the Accutron last night and I did actually tap the case and lo and behold it started - but only for a few seconds. Perhaps it just needs a firmer tap - I'll give that a go tonight. Bearing in mind it's a 60's piece what you say makes sense and (hopefully) might just work!

Thanks for the tip/advice.


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

I wouldn't dare take the credit for that. Thank Foz - he told me.

The f300 wouldn't start after I'd taken it apart to replace the crystal. I knew I hadn't done anything that _should_ have knackered the movement, but I was still bricking it.

Try tapping it with the crown in, and if that doesn't work, hack the movement to disengage the clutch (remove the resistance), then tap it and pop the crown back in to re-engage the drive.

If you still have the same problem (it runs then stops) I'd hazard a guess that the part of the circuit that regulates the electromagnets that boost the fork is duff. I.e. it runs because you've tapped it, but stops as the fork isn't getting boosted when it should.

_That is where you need the advice of one of the resident experts on the forum though._

Have a look here How it works. for a description of how the whole thing works. I have another link with a simpler description, but not sure if it breaks forum rules.

Spare parts are available, if you are prepared to trawl ebay and wait.


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

Who. Me? said:


> I wouldn't dare take the credit for that. Thank Foz - he told me.
> 
> The f300 wouldn't start after I'd taken it apart to replace the crystal. I knew I hadn't done anything that _should_ have knackered the movement, but I was still bricking it.
> 
> ...


Tried The Tap again last night - still no life though beyond a few seconds. The Tap actually works even when there's no battery in - I'm beginning to think the problem might be as simple as a duff battery - it's supposed to be a new one though. Think I'll take it round to the local jewellers to see if they'll try a battery in and see if that'll get it going.


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

Phil,

I'd be a little careful tapping it....









Does it "hummm" with a new battery fitted? You may need to rotate the battery a couple of times; you may also need to clean the battery contacts in the movement. If it "hummms" but the hands don't move, you're at least half way there.

If it doesn't hummm under any circumstances, then either there is still a poor connection in the circuit somewhere or the electronics are busted. If it does hummm but hands aren't moving, then the indexing mechanism is either wrecked or hopefully just out of alignment.

Let us know....

Cheers

Paul


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

Nope - tried all of that - no hum.

Here's a quick pic of the insides - the battery strap is minus one of its screws at the moment










Looks ok to my untrained eye.


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

philjopa said:


> Looks ok to my untrained eye.


They always do









I'll take a look if you want. PM if interested.


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

Silver Hawk said:


> philjopa said:
> 
> 
> > Looks ok to my untrained eye.
> ...


PM sent - TY


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## mel (Dec 6, 2006)

Not being by any means an expert, but the battery (cell), is it in the right way up? If there's a wee single finger in the middle when you take it out, then surely the writing on the battery case should be readable?

Or are Bulova a bunch of wierdo meanies who use batteries (upside down) wrong way round? {Just a thought} Being an ex leccy board man and licensed up to 400Kv, one always tends to check what, where and how the power is actually supplied to anything first, it's surprising how often a fault is down to something not being supplied with leccy









Once attended a complaint from a customer who said his photo-copier would only work after 3.00 p.m. ~ even though they switched it on at 9.00 a.m. every morning. Photocopier company had checked in their workshop, got no fault, worked ok there at all times. Turned out the socket they were using was part of the same circuit that they used for their outside shop sign ~ yes, some of you guessed ~ this came on *on a time switch at 3.00 p.m. each day*







:*****:


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

mel said:


> Not being by any means an expert, but the battery (cell), is it in the right way up? If there's a wee single finger in the middle when you take it out, then surely the writing on the battery case should be readable?
> 
> Or are Bulova a bunch of wierdo meanies who use batteries (upside down) wrong way round? {Just a thought} Being an ex leccy board man and licensed up to 400Kv, one always tends to check what, where and how the power is actually supplied to anything first, it's surprising how often a fault is down to something not being supplied with leccy
> 
> ...


Tried it both ways Mel  - doesn't work either way......


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## brian (Jun 24, 2006)

Hi there,

re the 218 failure to start.

I have had this a few times with the 218 s that I have and my conclusion is this - a lot of the batteries that are for sale at 1.5 v if they have been around on a shelf for a long time do not achieve 1.5 consistently after a while.

I have found that if you use the sony - I think that Roy's batteries are the sony or maxell you will initially get around 1.6 and that will be enough to start the motor. Hack the second hand before fitting the battery and after fitting leave for about three minutes then press in the crown and it should be go

on one occasion I had to try three batteries before the damned thing started.

Roy's are good quality but I have have had some poor voltages from some ebay companies. Also only buy when they are needed don't keep one for next time.

good luck

Brian


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## mel (Dec 6, 2006)

If you read the description on the "how it works" link from above, you'll come across this bit:-

*The RC network in the base of the transistor (R0 and C0) acts as a self start mechanism*

Looking at the photo, for those of a nontechie bent, this is the cylinder marked "20V" and the two candy striped {carbon possibly} resistors just below it. From here (Edinburgh







) the capacitor looks like a small electrolytic which could well be knadgered if the watch is of any real age. Electrolytic capactiors can "dry out" with age and cease to function. If this was a radio or a telly, changing the capacitor would literally be a 2 minute job, and proving this by substitution an easy fix or elimination of the problem. On a watch, well I doubt if I could see the thing never mind change it in real life.

This would also account for probs where trying two or three cells, one just has enough guts to jump start the circuit and get it functioning as it should.

My 2p (or 2 cents) worth.

Used to be a wee telly repair shop in Leith, Edinburgh, had a sign up as follows

Repair charges Â£5.00 per hour

Repairs while you watch Â£7.00 per hour

Repairs while you watch and offer advice Â£12.00 per hour


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

Thanks for the tips & advice Mel & Brian.

It's currently with Silver Hawk who's kindly offered to have a look at it for me - mind you won't it be embarassing if it's just the battery







.....

Watch







this space.


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

It's not the battery







; that was fine and reading a healthy 1.524 volts on my multimeter.

It looks to be at least one of the tuning fork coils; the hair-thin wire from one of the solder posts to the right-hand coil looks to be missing and/or damaged.









And the battery clamp is missing its brass threaded insert that is set in the plastic body....so its no wonder the battery clamp screw is missing....there is nothing to screw it into.









Sorry Phil. Please PM me your address and I'll send it back.


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

Bummer, but not a complete disaster.

The coil units are built as distinct sub-assemblies.

NOS tuning fork parts, still in their original packaging seem to turn up pretty regularly on ebay; if your watchmaker can't get hold of a replacement unit through the trade.

Comments on here about the F300 movement got me pretty paranoid about it going wrong, so I keep a casual watch on ebay for tuning fork movement parts in case, god forbid, I ever need them.

I've even seen packets of index wheels on there in the last few weeks.


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## philjopa (May 18, 2005)

Silver Hawk said:


> It's not the battery
> 
> 
> 
> ...


BUMMER........







... ah well, thanks for looking Paul.


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