# Omega F300 Storage



## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

Hi there, quick question for all you experts. I have an Omega F300 I want to sell. It doesn't seem to be shifting on ebay and I don't want to give it away. If I take it off the market and try again in a couple of years, what is the best way of storing it. I assume I should pull out the crown. Should I also take out the battery?

Thanks in advance,


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## PC-Magician (Apr 29, 2013)

EJL73 said:


> Hi there, quick question for all you experts. I have an Omega F300 I want to sell. It doesn't seem to be shifting on ebay and I don't want to give it away. If I take it off the market and try again in a couple of years, what is the best way of storing it. I assume I should pull out the crown. Should I also take out the battery?
> 
> Thanks in advance,


Once you get the appropriate amount of posts and have built a good rep, you could try the sales corner. As to your original question that is open to debate.

Personally I would pull the crown and run it say every 3 months for a few days then pull the crown again. And change the battery once a year.

It should sell are you possibly asking too much?


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

If you're storing it for a couple of years, I'd remove the battery.


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## PC-Magician (Apr 29, 2013)

Silver Hawk said:


> If you're storing it for a couple of years, I'd remove the battery.


Is it not better to keep it running at least periodically for the movements sake?


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

PC-Magician said:


> Silver Hawk said:
> 
> 
> > If you're storing it for a couple of years, I'd remove the battery.
> ...


I don't think so.

If you kept it running permanently for 2 years, you'd need to change the battery anyway...and you'd add wear to the index wheel, but it is probably kinder to the electronics.

If you ran in periodically, I think that is less kind to the electronics....don't more electronics fail at start up?....but kinder to the index wheel.

If you don't run it and with the battery out, then the worst that can happen is the oils might thicken up / gum up. But modern lubricants should not do that.

I have lots of tuning fork watches. I now store them with batteries out, and never run them.


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## PC-Magician (Apr 29, 2013)

Silver Hawk said:


> PC-Magician said:
> 
> 
> > Silver Hawk said:
> ...


I think I agree with that on the whole, in fact I will implement that on my collection.


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## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

Thanks all, I will go for the crown out/battery out approach.


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## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

Silver Hawk said:


> don't more electronics fail at start up?


I have a hummer which runs a bit fast. So every week or so I have to adjust the time by stopping it. Do you reckon that could be putting stress on the electronics?


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## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

PC-Magician said:


> It should sell are you possibly asking too much?


Possibly, but I don't really want to lose too much money on what I paid for the watch and the recent service and spare parts. Perhaps I paid too much for it in the first place. It is already on the bay for less than what I have spent. So if it doesn't sell, I would rather wait. I don't see these falling in value (hopefully).


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## PDXWatchCollector (Nov 15, 2013)

EJL73 said:


> PC-Magician said:
> 
> 
> > It should sell are you possibly asking too much?
> ...


If you're factoring in the cost of service, you're going to find it very difficult to recoup your "full costs".

I consider servicing costs as the price of admission for having a properly maintained and functioning timepiece ... trying to reclaim those costs on the back end of the ride is going to be difficult, particularly because other serious collectors (who are the ones who will be willing to part with the fair cost of the watch itself) will likely want to have it serviced again while in their possession (again, their "price of admission".) Your experience having it serviced is difficult to attach tangible value to for the next owner (unless the service was very recent compared to the time of sale and is documented.)

My 2-cents!


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## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

PDXWatchCollector said:


> If you're factoring in the cost of service, you're going to find it very difficult to recoup your "full costs".
> 
> I consider servicing costs as the price of admission for having a properly maintained and functioning timepiece ... trying to reclaim those costs on the back end of the ride is going to be difficult, particularly because other serious collectors (who are the ones who will be willing to part with the fair cost of the watch itself) will likely want to have it serviced again while in their possession (again, their "price of admission".) Your experience having it serviced is difficult to attach tangible value to for the next owner (unless the service was very recent compared to the time of sale and is documented.)
> 
> My 2-cents!


Good advice! I am a bit new to watch collecting, but whenever I get one I do like to get it serviced myself. Then at least I know it has been done properly....


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## Event horizon (Mar 17, 2014)

Servicing and repairs are the current owners expense and can't be factored into the price so much. You wouldn't run a car for a couple of years and expect to get your money back for the car including expenses.

If you bought a fixer upper that's a little different. Is it a diver or dress watch?


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## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

Event horizon said:


> Servicing and repairs are the current owners expense and can't be factored into the price so much. You wouldn't run a car for a couple of years and expect to get your money back for the car including expenses.
> 
> If you bought a fixer upper that's a little different. Is it a diver or dress watch?


It is a diver. The 198.0006 model...


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

EJL73 said:


> It is a diver. The 198.0006 model...


Do you mean 198.0005? (The 'SMf300' Seamaster f300 skin-diver?)

198.0006 is a Constellation - I'd class that as more of a dress watch.


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## EJL73 (Apr 7, 2014)

Whoops, sorry, yes it is 198.0005. The one with the silver dial.

Like the one below (photo courtesy of Electric Watches)


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