# Drill press recommendations...



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Looking to buy a bench drill press. The most common makes are all on ebay...around the £120 mark. I would prefer a rack and pinion operated table, but it's not a deal breaker. There's lot's out there...Clarke, Draper, Scheppach, Record...etc.

Looked at Record Power, because they are are a company I grew up with and trust, but recent reviews say that the products are now Chinese made and seriously underpowered. Their DP16B press only has a 250W motor (most have a 500W+) and that it stalls at more than a 3/8" drill in wood. Also, the drive pulleys at the top aren't metal but plastic. Do any other members out there use a drill press, and what are your recommendations? Any answers gratefully received.


----------



## WRENCH (Jun 20, 2016)

Have a look at SCHEPPACH and SKIL. Scheppach used to do a 550 watt. Worth checking the origin of manufacture.


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

A lot of those are just rebranded cheap rubbish and don't last five minutes, are there any auctions or machine tool dealers going on around your way where you could maybe pick up an older good quality item.


----------



## Biker (Mar 9, 2013)

Got me a cheap and cheerful 'Ferrex' one from Aldi, it meets my needs, the only drawbacks are no R7P on the drill bed and the drill reach isn't as far as the ones we have at work but so far, it's been fine, I suppose the quality of drill required is governed by the type of work you need to do with it. Mine is mainly used for manufacturing replacement bike bits and a wee bit of DIY.


----------



## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

BondandBigM said:


> A lot of those are just rebranded cheap rubbish and don't last five minutes, are there any auctions or machine tool dealers going on around your way where you could maybe pick up an older good quality item.


 When I worked at Williams they bought used lathes and Mills rather than new as the quality was just better. And that was 25 years ago!


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

if its not worn out, buy an old one. they were sold around the world, TILL the chineezz screwed it all up with tools, vin



vinn said:


> if its not worn out, buy an old one. they were sold around the world, TILL the chineezz screwed all tools up, vin


----------



## DJJazzyJeff (Apr 2, 2020)

vinn said:


> if its not worn out, buy an old one. they were sold around the world, TILL the chineezz screwed it all up with tools, vin


 Chinese.


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

DJJazzyJeff said:


> Chinese. chink


----------



## WRENCH (Jun 20, 2016)

That's not very nice is it. :nono:


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Please don't use those sort of terms on the forum, Vinn. They are outdated, very insulting and unacceptable.


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

WRENCH said:


> That's not very nice is it. :nono:





WRENCH said:


> That's not very nice is it. :nono:


 nice? a country that develops and sends the worst ever, fabucated and sends it world wide (and would have the antidote of same). is nice? hogwash ! vin



Roger the Dodger said:


> Please don't use those sort of terms on the forum, Vinn. They are outdated, very insulting and unacceptable.


 ok sorry, vin


----------



## Biker (Mar 9, 2013)

What exactly are you planning to do with it?


----------



## DJJazzyJeff (Apr 2, 2020)

You might use those insulting terms but please don't insinuate that I do.

But to show there are no hard feelings, here's a gift:

https://www.dictionary.com/

Back on topic, I bought an old Record drill press from a local school a few years back when they were updating equipment. I often see old stuff like this at roups up here too.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Biker said:


> What exactly are you planning to do with it?


 Just generally for DIY projects, Buster...bird box holes, drilling metal accurately, etc. The biggest problem that most reviewers complain about is excessive play in the quill ( the vertical shaft driving the chuck), leading to oversized holes as the drill bit 'wobbles'. Some of the videos of cheap models show shocking pics of the drill bit waving about all over the place...how you would centre the bit on the centre dot would be virtually impossible. However, having spent 10 years in the engineering trade, I know what I should be looking for. I just need a sensible compromise between cheap rubbish and ultra precision. (which is what I'm used to, but don't actually need).


----------



## Biker (Mar 9, 2013)

Roger the Dodger said:


> Just generally for DIY projects, Buster...bird box holes, drilling metal accurately, etc. The biggest problem that most reviewers complain about is excessive play in the quill ( the vertical shaft driving the chuck), leading to oversized holes as the drill bit 'wobbles'. Some of the videos of cheap models show shocking pics of the drill bit waving about all over the place...how you would centre the bit on the centre dot would be virtually impossible. However, having spent 10 years in the engineering trade, I know what I should be looking for. I just need a sensible compromise between cheap rubbish and ultra precision. (which is what I'm used to, but don't actually need).


 To be fair I haven't experienced that with this one, maybe just lucky..


----------



## DJJazzyJeff (Apr 2, 2020)

I also have a wood lathe, it has a tiny, almost imperceptible amount of 'wobble', not a problem for turning the stuff I do - rolling pins, handles for bottle openers and so on, but would be hopeless for precision stuff like using with a pen mandrill.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

DJJazzyJeff said:


> I also have a wood lathe, it has a tiny, almost imperceptible amount of 'wobble', not a problem for turning the stuff I do - rolling pins, handles for bottle openers and so on, but would be hopeless for precision stuff like using with a pen mandrill.


 Don't get me started on woodturning...one of my favourite hobbies years ago...and that was a Record lathe...it was brilliant.


----------



## al_kaholik (May 22, 2018)

Second hand would get you something accurate IF its not worn out. Check 3 phase ones cheaply available and motor swapping if you are up for that, you probably won't miss the grunt doing those kind of projects


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

DJJazzyJeff said:


> You might use those insulting terms but please don't insinuate that I do.
> 
> But to show there are no hard feelings, here's a gift:
> 
> ...


 get a life ! vin


----------



## DJJazzyJeff (Apr 2, 2020)

vinn said:


> get a life ! vin


 Tell me where you got yours, so I know where to avoid.


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

This what you need, you might need a bigger shed though.

:laughing2dw: :laughing2dw:



This was only a few small digger axle support plates I did, 27mm holes with a HSS twist drill but on some jobs with a carbide insert u-drill it can punch up to 75/85mm holes through three or four inches of solid steel blocks.


----------



## WRENCH (Jun 20, 2016)

BondandBigM said:


> This what you need, you might need a bigger shed though.


 If you know how to keep your drills sharp, it's amazing what you'll do with one of these,










variable speed too. :laughing2dw:


----------



## Biker (Mar 9, 2013)

WRENCH said:


> If you know how to keep your drills sharp, it's amazing what you'll do with one of these,
> 
> 
> 
> variable speed too. :laughing2dw:


 TBH when I first joined up we did basic skills in workshops and one of the pieces we had to make was drilled using one of these. we cut the holes for a dice using one of these, the depth control is excellent and it gets you totally involved in every aspect of what you're doing.

Cracking piece of kit


----------



## WRENCH (Jun 20, 2016)

Biker said:


> Cracking piece of kit


 They are excellent. My one had a morse taper arbour, and it was never really hard drilling through big stuff, as that ratchet thing fed the drill. I used a morse taper adaptor that took Rotabroach cutters for some big holes.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

@WRENCH & @BondandBigM...

A lot of the radial arm drills at BroomWade didn't have chucks...the drill bits all had Morse tapers and fitted directly into the spindle sleeve. All could be operated manually, and some of the bigger ones had auto feed, too.

Looking at the Sheppach (German make, but assembled in China) DP16SL, from Screwfix at the moment. Seems to satisfy all my needs. Most reviews are good, those that aren't are just silly gripes that can be sorted by any competent person. It will serve my purpose.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-dp16sl-405mm-brushless-electric-cross-laser-bench-drill-vice-230v/403hk


----------



## Biker (Mar 9, 2013)

Roger the Dodger said:


> https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-dp16sl-405mm-brushless-electric-cross-laser-bench-drill-vice-230v/403hk


 I like the crank handle table, my Cheapo ferrex has cross lasers too. :thumbsup:


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

To be honest, I probably wouldn't even attach the lasers...we never used them in the old days, and pretty sure you don't need them now...just a cheap gimmick IMHO. All you need is an accurately marked and punched centre dot (metal) or bradawl mark (wood).

Will be ordering next week, along with a 6" bench grinder.

Perhaps......


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

Roger the Dodger said:


> To be honest, I probably wouldn't even attach the lasers...we never used them in the old days, and pretty sure you don't need them now...just a cheap gimmick IMHO. All you need is an accurately marked and punched centre dot (metal) or bradawl mark (wood).
> 
> Will be ordering next week, along with a 6" bench grinder.
> 
> Perhaps......


 I suggest a set of these when you are drilling metal, a better start for drills than just a centre punch pop especially on bigger sized holes.










Any decent engineering merchant will sell them and they are relatively inexpensive.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

BondandBigM said:


> I suggest a set of these when you are drilling metal, a better start for drills than just a centre punch pop especially on bigger sized holes.
> 
> 
> 
> Any decent engineering merchant will sell them and they are relatively inexpensive.


 TBH, I'd forgotten all about a set of centre drills...you don't see them very often outside an engineering workshop. We used to use them more for lathe work. Something else to add to the list... :yes:


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

Roger the Dodger said:


> TBH, I'd forgotten all about a set of centre drills...you don't see them very often outside an engineering workshop. We used to use them more for lathe work. Something else to add to the list... :yes:


 To be fair my sort of drilling is a bit more industrial than anything you'll do in your man cave.

:laughing2dw: :laughing2dw:

In some ways I'm a bit envious, back in day I always had a decent sized garage or rented some workshop space, more messing about with old motors rather than DIY but these days I'm just a professional boozer stroke lazy [email protected]

:biggrin:


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

BondandBigM said:


> I suggest a set of these when you are drilling metal, a better start for drills than just a centre punch pop especially on bigger sized holes.
> 
> 
> 
> Any decent engineering merchant will sell them and they are relatively inexpensive.


 they work good on wood too. wood or metal punched also. champfuring too. vin



WRENCH said:


> They are excellent. My one had a morse taper arbour, and it was never really hard drilling through big stuff, as that ratchet thing fed the drill. I used a morse taper adaptor that took Rotabroach cutters for some big holes.


 it is a "end mill" ? vin


----------



## WRENCH (Jun 20, 2016)

vinn said:


> it is a "end mill" ? vin


 Rotabroach mag drill cutter.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

BondandBigM said:


> To be fair my sort of drilling is a bit more industrial than anything you'll do in your man cave.


 No need to hold back, chap...back in the seventies at BroomWade, some of the big radial arm drills we used were awesome. No chucks, all MT drills...and we even used them to tap, too. All could be used manually via a handwheel at the side, but the bigger ones had auto feed, too. The skill was to match the feed to the drill diameter being used, to avoid shattering the drill bit. On autofeed, the downward pressure these machines could apply was ridiculous. You had to get it right...and make sure your drill was sharpened correctly. These are old skills that you will recognise, lost to the proliferation of CNC machines. I mentioned taps...most don't realise that for each size of hole, there are 3 taps...the 'Taper' tap to start the thread, tapered for a third of its length, the 'Through' tap to finish a thread in material accessible both sides, tapered for just the first few threads and the 'Plug' tap, threaded right to the end, to thread a blind hole. I still have most common sizes in UNC, UNF, Whitworth, Metric, and BA. The most important one to me however, is the 3/8" UNF tap and die which is the standard thread still used on all UK fishing gear from banksticks to alarms to rodrests etc.

All things considered, you're right....I'm never going to drill beyond 20mm (3/4") in the 'garage' but just wanted you to know that I've been there, done that and still wearing the T shirt. :thumbsup:


----------



## Alpha550t (Mar 31, 2020)

You lucky lad, I'm still there, doing that and the T shirt is in the wash! There are still a lot of skilled men about, but it does bug me when CNC operators start and they are absolutely clueless to the basics of machining, yet expect wages 20% more than time served lads.


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

Roger the Dodger said:


> No need to hold back, chap...back in the seventies at BroomWade, some of the big radial arm drills we used were awesome. No chucks, all MT drills...and we even used them to tap, too. All could be used manually via a handwheel at the side, but the bigger ones had auto feed, too. The skill was to match the feed to the drill diameter being used, to avoid shattering the drill bit. On autofeed, the downward pressure these machines could apply was ridiculous. You had to get it right...and make sure your drill was sharpened correctly. These are old skills that you will recognise, lost to the proliferation of CNC machines. I mentioned taps...most don't realise that for each size of hole, there are 3 taps...the 'Taper' tap to start the thread, tapered for a third of its length, the 'Through' tap to finish a thread in material accessible both sides, tapered for just the first few threads and the 'Plug' tap, threaded right to the end, to thread a blind hole. I still have most common sizes in UNC, UNF, Whitworth, Metric, and BA. The most important one to me however, is the 3/8" UNF tap and die which is the standard thread still used on all UK fishing gear from banksticks to alarms to rodrests etc.
> 
> All things considered, you're right....I'm never going to drill beyond 20mm (3/4") in the 'garage' but just wanted you to know that I've been there, done that and still wearing the T shirt. :thumbsup:


 We still have a big radial arm drill at the bottom of the machine shop, they just bought a new one last year, there's still plenty of work for it. It's not viable to put some one offs in a machine and some of the cradles we make are to big to go in a machine . I hate working on it, coolant and swarf all over the place, the regular bloke hides all the tools, sleeves and clamps so more time spent looking for stuff. We still do some stuff the old fashioned way but I try and avoid it at all costs.

:laughing2dw: :laughing2dw:


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

A large box arrived on the doorstep this morning. This is the £199 Scheppach DP16SL drill press from Screwfix (the best price on the net, unless I ordered it from Italy to save £20...but would have been a long delivery, and a pain if anything was wrong with it). I've done an 'unboxing and setup' and will share my initial thoughts.









Everything nicely packaged in polybags and machined surfaces lightly oiled to prevent rust in storage...here unpacked.









First, the column is bolted to the cast iron base.









The rack is removed, threaded through the table collar and then installed on the column.









Next, the head assembly is placed on the column and secured with two large grub screws. The on / off switches are mounted on the front, as is the laser crosshair switch.









To the right hand side is the handwheel and motor slackening wingnut for adjusting the belt tension / changing speeds.









While on the left hand side is the isolator / emergency cut off switch and the depth gauge.









The machine has 5 different speeds, set by moving the drive belt onto different diameter cast iron pulleys at the top of the machine.









Table of drilling speeds inside lid.









For safety, the machine won't start with the lid open...that's what this switch is for. It isolates the electrical supply as soon as you open the lid.









Reviews of cheaper machines had mentioned that some were clearly lacking in QC, with stories of out of square tables, tables not machined flat and quill runout. That's what I looked for next.
Thankfully, the table as it arrived from the factory is dead square to the chuck,from all sides, so I can be sure that holes will be at 90o to the material.


















The table is also perfectly flat.









I set the drill to its medium speed of 1300rpm and tried a few test holes in wood and metal, using a 10mm drill. Firstly, another good bit of news...no runout on the quill, it turns beautifully with no wobble at all.
Wood, no problem.









A piece of angle iron...again, no problem (I didn't pilot drill this, either)









No problem with a hole saw, either.









Initial views are that for what I paid, I'm very pleased with this drill press. It's quiet, powerful (550w) and seems very well constructed, with solid cast iron surfaces, well machined and accurate. There are a few nice little touches like a storage clip for the chuck key...









...and a handy, adjustable depth gauge on the left side.









The only thing that could be better is the drill vice, which is a small (2.5"), cheap cast aluminium /bug metal affair...but it was included. Most bench drills aren't supplied with one. I will probably change it for a better cast iron one at some point.









The final thing to mention is the laser crosshairs. On this machine they are powered from its electrical supply via a switch at the front. Again, on cheaper models the laser is usually battery powered. The lines are adjustable, but to me this is a bit of a gimmick and I probably won't ever use it.









Hope this was useful to anyone else contemplating acquiring a drill press.


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

good show ! don't buy a drill bit sharpener. if you don't know it, you can learn to sharpen them on a "grind stone" ! it is an art much like sharpening watch screw drivers . good luck and have a ball. vin


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

vinn said:


> good show ! don't buy a drill bit sharpener. if you don't know it, you can learn to sharpen them on a "grind stone" ! it is an art much like sharpening watch screw drivers . good luck and have a ball. vin


 You say that but a small drill sharpening attachment only costs a few quid and worth it in the long run. Saves a lot of faffing around.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

vinn said:


> good show ! don't buy a drill bit sharpener. if you don't know it, you can learn to sharpen them on a "grind stone" ! it is an art much like sharpening watch screw drivers . good luck and have a ball. vin





BondandBigM said:


> You say that but a small drill sharpening attachment only costs a few quid and worth it in the long run. Saves a lot of faffing around.


 I was taught to do it by hand, many, many years ago, and to that end, a Record Power 6" bench grinder is showing up tomorrow. Will do a thread about that, too.


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

Roger the Dodger said:


> I was taught to do it by hand, many, many years ago, and to that end, a Record Power 6" bench grinder is showing up tomorrow. Will do a thread about that, too.












I hope whoever scribbled this is better at sharpening drills than drawing. Still got one these hanging up behind our radial arm for checking you've got it evenly touched up and a massive ancient pedistal grinder that must be older than me and sounds like a jet engine as it winds up to speed.

When I was an apprentice if you p!ssed off the forman you were banished to the stores to regrind drills by hand and the storeman tortured the life out of us.

:laughing2dw: :laughing2dw:


----------



## BobJ (Jul 2, 2017)

I'm sold, :thumbsup: I've been looking to replace my cheapo pillar drill since it's motor burnt out a few months ago. I hadn't realised the plates on this model were made from cast iron.

Are you planning on making a removable wooden table and fence?


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

BobJ said:


> I'm sold, :thumbsup: I've been looking to replace my cheapo pillar drill since it's motor burnt out a few months ago. I hadn't realised the plates on this model were made from cast iron.
> 
> Are you planning on making a removable wooden table and fence?


 Hi, Bob...yes, that's exactly what's on the books as one of the first projects. I've watched lots of Youtube vids on this subject, and like this one the best.


----------



## BobJ (Jul 2, 2017)

That's about as good a table build as I've seen, (the sizes of his shop!!) Look forward to seeing your progress Roger. :thumbsup:

My present one is a lot more thrown together.. :laugh:


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

BondandBigM said:


> I hope whoever scribbled this is better at sharpening drills than drawing. Still got one these hanging up behind our radial arm for checking you've got it evenly touched up and a massive ancient pedistal grinder that must be older than me and sounds like a jet engine as it winds up to speed.
> 
> When I was an apprentice if you p!ssed off the forman you were banished to the stores to regrind drills by hand and the storeman tortured the life out of us.
> 
> :laughing2dw: :laughing2dw:


 i grind them by hand, as taught. its easer and quicker. "to each his own". vin


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

BobJ said:


> That's about as good a table build as I've seen, (the sizes of his shop!!) Look forward to seeing your progress Roger. :thumbsup:
> 
> My present one is a lot more thrown together.. :laugh:


 I'm sure it does the job just as well...it all depends on how obsessive you are. I might just end up making one like yours! :thumbsup:


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Another large box arrived today. This is the 6" Record bench grinder I got for sharpening drills, etc.










Nice and solid, with a 350W motor. Standard sized 20mm coarse wheel on the left, and a 40mm fine white wheel on the right for finishing. Just a small amount of self assembly required...ie fitting the tool rests, spark arresters and perspex guards. The right hand one has a magnifying lens for the fine finishing. I also got a dressing stone for the fine wheel, as this is the one that will need to be kept perfectly flat.


----------



## Alpha550t (Mar 31, 2020)

Roger the Dodger said:


> Another large box arrived today. This is the 6" Record bench grinder I got for sharpening drills, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice and solid, with a 350W motor. Standard sized 20mm coarse wheel on the left, and a 40mm fine white wheel on the right for finishing. Just a small amount of self assembly required...ie fitting the tool rests, spark arresters and perspex guards. The right hand one has a magnifying lens for the fine finishing. I also got a dressing stone for the fine wheel, as this is the one that will need to be kept perfectly flat.


 I'd recommend you get a single point diamond dresser. Should get a decent one for £15. Far superior to a dressing stone.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Going to get some tapered mop adaptors and mops to use it for polishing as well


----------



## al_kaholik (May 22, 2018)

@Roger the Dodger Wera screwdrivers, loctite and knolling of all the parts. Good taste and behaviours


----------



## BondandBigM (Apr 4, 2007)

vinn said:


> i grind them by hand, as taught. its easer and quicker. "to each his own". vin


 I rarely use HSS drills so it's not very often I have to sharpen them. Mostly on the machines I use solid carbide in which case our supplier has them reground for us or U-Drills and big twin tippers with carbide inserts, much quicker and more accurate hole size especially on larger diameters. Walter is our current preferred supplier for those.


----------



## vinn (Jun 14, 2015)

good show. that reminds me; "carbide twist insert drills " ; i sharpen them with " green stone". vin


----------



## Biker (Mar 9, 2013)

Ouch!!!
















Sorry Roger. At least this doesn't have the cranked table...

*stands well back*

Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Biker said:


> Ouch!!!
> 
> Sorry Roger. At least this doesn't have the cranked table...
> 
> ...


 No probs, Buster...I did look at that one, but thought the cranked table would give more control...so far, it's been superb. That one you pictured has a 350W motor. Mine's a bit bigger at 550W. Overall, it's a more powerful machine.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

BobJ said:


> Are you planning on making a removable wooden table and fence?


 @BobJ Hi Bob...having looked at endless Youtube vids on making a woodworking table and adjustable fence, started on mine today. It comprises elements from a lot of ideas, from getting the table lift crank to work without fouling the underside of the table, and being able to access the column locking screw. Aluminium T bar track has been ordered to make the slides for the back fence and stop block. Baltic birch ply is a little excessive for this project, so a free gift of some 19mm WBP ply from a mate will surfice. Lots of pics have been taken, and a 'project' thread will ensue shortly. Watch this space.


----------



## BobJ (Jul 2, 2017)

Roger the Dodger said:


> @BobJ Hi Bob...having looked at endless Youtube vids on making a woodworking table and adjustable fence, started on mine today. It comprises elements from a lot of ideas, from getting the table lift crank to work without fouling the underside of the table, and being able to access the column locking screw. Aluminium T bar track has been ordered to make the slides for the back fence and stop block. Baltic birch ply is a little excessive for this project, so a free gift of some 19mm WBP ply from a mate will surfice. Lots of pics have been taken, and a 'project' thread will ensue shortly. Watch this space.


 Looking forward to it Roger. :thumbsup:

A few problems with my garage (building) has held up my purchase of any new machines or doing any work in there for a few months

but all sorted now. Ordering my Drill press this week.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Following on from the drill press table project, a few more have raised their heads. I need to make a router table, a router sled for accurate levelling and half jointing and a new circle cutting jig. I also have plans to convert my 7" Makita circular saw into a rail saw and table saw. I made a router sled when I was working, but left it there when I retired. The new one is now fixed in my mind, and will be a better version with metal rails. These are not only good for levelling, but also for supporting the router if clearing a large recess that is wider than the router base to avoid tipping. These will be future projects and posted here. Keep watching.


----------



## BobJ (Jul 2, 2017)

Assembled my new drill press (as Rogers) today.

Not much to report other than said by Roger. The 13amp adaptor plug is a bit of a lump which I may change in the future, plus

my retired engineer neighbour gave me a 3-16 keyless chuck which fitted the B16 taper.

A nice upgrade from my old one, now recycled.


----------



## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

BobJ said:


> Assembled my new drill press (as Rogers) today.
> 
> Not much to report other than said by Roger. The 13amp adaptor plug is a bit of a lump which I may change in the future, plus
> 
> ...


 One thing I improved on mine was to quieten the noise made by the quill return spring (on the LH side next to the isolator switch). It sounded a bit 'graunchy' straight out of the box, but as it's under tension it's a bit risky opening the cover. However, a quick spray with WD40 round the case and enough seeped in to make it whisper quiet.


----------



## BobJ (Jul 2, 2017)

Roger the Dodger said:


> One thing I improved on mine was to quieten the noise made by the quill return spring (on the LH side next to the isolator switch). It sounded a bit 'graunchy' straight out of the box, but as it's under tension it's a bit risky opening the cover. However, a quick spray with WD40 round the case and enough seeped in to make it whisper quiet.


 Thanks, that's something I will have to listen out for. I half expected to have to get the sticky back foam out to quieten the pulley cover which

is a usual place for rattling but it's a good tight fit when closed and no rattle.


----------

