# Lever-Off Case Backs That Just Won't Come Off



## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

I have just bought a second-hand heavy stainless steel cased Firetrap quartz watch and for collecting purposes, i want to remove the battery. However, two jewellers have so far failed to prise off the case back in spite of the back having the usual lift-off point where the watch knife would be used and one of the jewellers said that he might be able to get the back off but be unable to press it back into place. I myself have had this problem before when I first started tinkering with watches, actually damaging a plastic watch glass when pressing down the case back after removing the battery.

My question to wise members of the Forum who are used to tinkering with watches is, "How do I remove a tightly held case back without damaging the watch?" And as a secondary question, "If I cannot get the back of the case off at the moment, is it true that by keeping the crown pulled out, I can usefully prevent the battery from leaking inside the watch for a usefully long period of time?"

I thank any members in advance for any help they can give me in this matter.


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## PC-Magician (Apr 29, 2013)

Well if the back is really stubborn you could try a little heat from a hairdryer.

As to pulling a crown out, this will not prevent a battery from leaking that is for sure.


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

You could try something like this.. ebay item 281173303512

I've got a simpler device similar to the above that has a chunky, abs plastic frame (it was called something like 'improved case back remover for quartz watches', I think). Despite the less than catchy name, it works a treat on snap on case backs and bezels and was a lot cheaper than the type in the link above. Can't find a link to one right now though.

It has plastic 'dies' that hold the case in place with cut outs for the crown, so it doesn't get crushed, and a metal blade that fits between the case and case back. A screw thread forces the blade in between the case and caseback. (In effect, it works like a caseback knife, but the holder avoids risk to palms and thumbs, and the screw thread means you can apply much more pressure.) The only limitation I've found is that I can't use it on a chronograph case as the pushers get in the way, although if I had the material I could make a modified holder that would accommodate the pushers too.


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

I assume you mean one of these Andy:










I have one of those but find it flexes too much on really tight case backs. Your Chinese eBay item is a good type and is a copy of the Horotec version (Â£250) --- and I notice Cousins have just listed an EU-made version at Â£130 + VAT. Think it is time to invest in one of these: so do I buy Swiss, EU or Chinese? :huh:


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

Yes, that's the one. I think it has one advantage over the horotec, in that the 'blade' pivots, so you can lever up when the blade is inserted. Not sure if the horotec one does that (although it's probably much better made).

I couldn't see any difference between the horotec and the chinese copy on ebay though. Wouldn't be surprised if they don't come out of the same factory.

Anecdote... On Ofrei's site, they sell a double-ended spring bar tool (fork at one end, pin at the other). I've got one that I think came with a strap from a US seller - they're very good. Ofrei actually sell two. One is Bergeon branded, the other isn't. Even Ofrei admit they're identical and come from the same factory. The branded one costs $10 more "This is the exactly the same tool as the FB-504, which sells for $26.95 and made at the same factory in Switzerland. The only thing different is this tool has the name Bergeon Stamped on and cost $37.94 instead of $26.95. This tool is for those who have to have tools stamped with the Bergeon name." http://www.ofrei.com/page252.html


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

I bought the Chinese one...but from a seller in the US. The US seller was selling using the Global Postage Programme, so custom charges were added at checkout...but all in, it came to Â£68....which is a pretty good deal I think, and cheaper than buying from China. Not bought anything yet using the Global Postage Programme where customs charges are paid up front, so it'll be interesting to see how smoothly this works.....


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## DJH584 (Apr 10, 2013)

Silver Hawk said:


> Not bought anything yet using the Global Postage Programme where customs charges are paid up front, so it'll be interesting to see how smoothly this works.....


Works reasonably well. Bought a watch case on 23/10 and it was with me by 30/10. The box it was in was opened for examination and note stuck to the box to that effect.


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## Timez Own (Oct 19, 2013)

Just a thought. Has anyone tried wart & verruca freeze?

If the watch is warmed first then the case back is subjected to the freeze, it should contract, albeit a very small amount, would this be enough to encourage the back to be levered off?


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## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

Wow! Thanks for all the helpful replies about stiff case backs. I'm sure that something can be done and relieved to see that there are possible solutions. As to keeping the crown open to delay battery leakage, I have always been suspicious that this is not really true.


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## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

Have I now just answered my own original topic question? I have just successfully clicked in place another watch in which the back plate would just not go on. The last time I had this problem ended in disaster with a cracked face and a back that still wouldn't go on.

This time round, neither my friendly local jeweller (who, by the way, taught me the proper way to use a watch case knife - and believe me, there is a proper way) nor a couple of strong men, could get the watch back on. However, after a bit of trial and error and the jeweller's advice, I managed to do it, and here are my tips.

1) Keep metal tools away from the watch unless of course you have a special apparatus for the job.

2) Square/rectangular backs seem to be more difficult than circular backs, especially if the case is slightly curved as to fit the curve of the wrist.

3) Now, take the case back and fit it as closed as you can, tending to aim to get three of the four corners into the case.

4) Near the edge of a softwood tabletop (such as pine), hold the watch face down , with your thumbs pressing either side of the corner you need to click in, making sure that the glass does not come into contact with the wood,

5) Now press gently but firmly down on the table so that only the metal bezel on the front of the watch is in contact with the table.and your thumbs are firmly pressing down on the case back edge that needs clicking in.

6) With a bit of luck, there will be a satisfying "click" and the watch back will be firmly in place.

This procedure has saved my Chevrolet watch which I bought in a never-used state, complete with quality packaging that is as nice as the watch itself. I believe, judging by the leaflet in the packaging, that the watch was made by Zeon. PLEASE NOTE that although this method worked for me, I can not be sure that it would work in every case. However, I was getting desperate and yet needed to find a way of pressing the back in without damaging or scratching the watch, and Hey Presto! it worked.


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