# Should I Have Stayed or Not (the old dilemma)



## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

You know when you are bidding for an item online in a live auction situation, and the items that you wanted go above and beyond your price range?

Well there are two things you can do: a) leave immediatley.

Or b) hang around and have a nose at other items that are coming up, with no intention of buying.

Then somthing cheap catches your eye, you hit the button, the light goes green, you're in the lead, no one else bids, it's yours, you brought it, WTF HAPPENED? :russian_roulette:

Well that was me last week and this morning this arrived.










Looking on the bright side, it is running, keeping time, mechanical, boxed, well marked on dial and crown, but needs a good clean and maybe a service.

On the down side the strap looks to be part of the watch itself, and for a mid sized watch 35.6mm wide inc crown, 29.9mm 12-6 and 7mm thick it is quite weighty.

Not took the back off yet so not sure of movement. May try later.


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## gimli (Mar 24, 2016)

Interesting. I'll assume it has a smaller than the case movement... Maybe something that could go onto larger ladies watches as well. It's a 70s watch right ?

The bracelet is part of the watch case but is that necessarily a problem ? You have the original one, this way and the movement + dial will come out easily. They're probably not even screwed in. It makes cleaning a lot easier.

Finding a replacement crystal (if you want one) might be a bit tricky since it's not round though.


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

I shall have a crack at opening the back later, and yes i am assuming 70's also though i have a sales receipt from 1981 (according to the auction house) in Singapore for $400.00 so late 70s would be a good guess. As for the crystal it looks more like a powder on the inside rather than scratches under magnification so fingers crossed on that one :thumbsup:


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## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

I must admit that I have a few of these watches where the strap is permanently attached to the watch case, and it is true that it tends then to be relatively easy to get at the movement. The problem really lies, of course, with the condition of the strap and clasp, since these cannot realistically be changed. In the case of gold plated bracelets one really does have to check the plating over and under the strap, and also the ingrained grease and dirt that seems to build up over time. Obviously, if the strap is stainless steel or solid gold/silver, you don't have to worry as much about corrosion, and one benefit of these watches is that they are usually slim and not with overlarge cases. I certainly buy this type of watch when I see it in good nick and cheap enough - they represent a true period piece.


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

Opened up the back this evening, camera not charged enough so had to use phone but this was the movement and i had to add text as phone camera is dog poop!



















As i thought most of the markings to the crystal was in fact just debris on the dial (lord only knows what) and a quick clean and blow shifted the majority, will clean better with more time.


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## gimli (Mar 24, 2016)

From my research it should be mid 70s or maybe late 70s. I have a 1973 Longines with serial number 50 mil and yours is 54 so only a few years difference...

I can't seem to find the movement and I think it's not 525. Longines' movement font can often be tricky...


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

Ah Cheers for that but here is the problem i told you the phone cam was dog poop!

Managed to take this with camera. :blind: and it shows that my eyes are dog poop too!










The 3 in the serial number is in fact a 8 and likewise so is the last 5 in 525 also an 8 :blind: .

These old eyes of mine.


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## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

Nice one Brummie, and thanks for going for a clear shot of the movement after the blurry affair. The watch follows the same "take-apart" process as I thought it would, with the movement and dial being coming out of the case in one unit and with no need to remove the crown pin. What I like about this format is that one can easily clean the inside of the watch and glass, as well as the dial. I concur with gimli concerning the date of the watch - mid 1970s or so.


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

Cheers, it makes the cleaning hell of a lot easier as you say.

Just used a soft shaving brush, the cloth from my Ray-Bans and the crystal came up nicely, prior to putting it back together i used (cleverly so i thought) the pressurised air from my CPAP Machine to blow it out. And it looked good to the naked eye.

So when i took a picture WHERE did those bits come from?










Found one simlar style with markings 1194 832 to inside case that was also only 4,745 different in the serial # on the case back but 265,344 difference on the movement # with same cal. and that had been dated for sale at early 80s so we're not that far out.


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

Just found out by chance that you can actually contact Longines for authentication directly.

Though they wont issue a certificate until they have seen it in person (by sending it to them) they will at least give out information on the watch in question.

In my books thats a "winner winner chicken dinner"


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

Those nice people at Longines have just sent me this, which i have screenshot. letting me know i did'nt buy a dud.


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## gimli (Mar 24, 2016)

Singapore huh ? Interesting... I once e-mailed them but they did not answer to me. Is there a specific format or protocol to follow for these e-mails ?


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

gimli said:


> Singapore huh ? Interesting... I once e-mailed them but they did not answer to me. Is there a specific format or protocol to follow for these e-mails ?


 To be honest i'd seen someone do the same on e-bay as it was one of their photos.

I just went to the Longines site found the FAQ page noted what i needed to provide then to the contact us page and sent off an e-mail, you have to register to use the site but it costs nothing, if you want a full Authentication certificate you have to send them your watch for them to check it over in person which i could understand doing if the watch was a big money item. But for me just knowing i was'nt buying some rip off watch the e-mail is good enough.

Pictures are always good to provide front, back, strap and movement along with any markings.

I also now can match the sales receipt that came with the watch to the date provided by Longines now. :thumbsup:

Took about 10 days.


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## gimli (Mar 24, 2016)

That's exactly what I did, I provided what they needed but didn't get back from them.


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## brummie1875 (May 2, 2016)

gimli said:


> That's exactly what I did, I provided what they needed but didn't get back from them.


 Tbh i was very surprised when it came through this afternoon, maybe it would be worth trying again.


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## gimli (Mar 24, 2016)

I eventually managed to find the year by myself. Would have been nice to get more info but I'm good for now. I'll definitely insist on the next Longines I'll get.


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