# First Full Strip And Rebuild



## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

I bought a really rough old Paico pin lever, one jewel watch on ebay for under a fiver yesterday morning. It arrived less than 24 hours later in the post and was, as described a non runner and well worn.

I opened it and soon got it running with a bit of lighter fluid, so it wasn't a total write off, but when dried and having its dial and pointers back on, it ran but the pointers didn't move.

I looked up the movement name on the Internet - BRAC 51 and found one labelled BRAC 37 that looked identical except that mine has one jewel which the no 37 did not. The site described how the spring barrel drove the hands through a friction clutch and this when I looked at things was far from having any friction at all.

I expect you may be thinking my lighter fluid was the cause of the slipage, but when I stripped the entire movement it was completely dry so I'm not sure that was the cause. The clutch was very floppy. Looking at the state of the case it has seen a lot of action and was probably just worn from setting the pointers which makes it slip so having stripped it right down, I used the business end of a steel biro which when unscrewed, went over the small centre wheel like a tube and fitted pretty much onto the part where the wheels were riveted onto the centre of the barrel with a small brass ring which protrudes through the wheels from the barrel lid below. I used used a tiny hammer to tighten it up.

This worked a treat and once reassembled the old clunker is working fine. It is a tad fast, so I am just regulating it now.

I'm quite pleased even though the watch is so rough it is a dog by any standards. I had it entirely apart and now it is back together and working very well - with hands going round merrily this time.


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## Rotundus (May 7, 2012)

aw damn, another poor sod on the slippery slope :tongue2:

seriously though, well done mate! and prepare to be skint as you buy tools, spares and do more fix-ups and mods :yes:

:thumbup:


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## Deco (Feb 15, 2011)

Well done Tony,

what's next? :lol:

Dec


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## Haggis (Apr 20, 2009)

Well done, :notworthy:


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## SirPavlov (Feb 1, 2011)

IMHO, it is debatable all this


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks for the congrats. I have a few cheapo tools, but I need some proper screwdrivers. The ones I have are too cheap. I need to sharpen them more or less every time they've been used.

I'm not sure what Sir Pavlov finds debatable. Maybe my slipping hands explanation. I can see that the lighter fluid first used to test the movements 'stuckness' might have temporarily lubricated the friction clutch on the spring barrel, but it was bone dry when I looked, and loose. Anyway, it is sorted now, except the watch doesn't seem to have a big power reserve as it stopped in the small hours. Worked again as soon as I wound it.

Here is the site I found about the movement, only mine has a jewel on to op the balance wheel.

Mine is the BRAC 51 not 37 as in this case but it looks just the same except for the single Jewel.

http://www.christophlorenz.de/watch/movements/b/brac/brac_37.php?l=en


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## Dusty (Feb 3, 2010)

You don't mention lubrication !!

Did you lubricate the movement ? if not that will be why its not running as it should.


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

Dusty said:


> You don't mention lubrication !!
> 
> Did you lubricate the movement ? if not that will be why its not running as it should.


Yes Dusty. I did lubricate it.

If I get time on Monday, I'll take it apart again, clean it more carefully and reassemble it. I need the practice. At least I managed not to break this movement. The cheapo Chinese skeleton pocketwatch has two parts missing now, although I have kept that one for practice too.

I will get better at this if I try. Anyway, all is progress. It is only about seven weeks since I had only the vaguest clue as to how a clock or a watch worked.

By the way Dusty - that old Omega is still keeping tome to a second or two a day, depending on wear or not wear. I have however found a watchmaker who will service it for a reasonable fee. When I mentioned the accuracy it was keeping, he started to hesitate and suggested it be better left alone, even when I told him I wanted it properly cleaned and lubed. Maybe he figures it might not keep as good time after stripping and that I'll kick off when it comes back less consistent. I AM going to get it done soon.


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## Dusty (Feb 3, 2010)

One - two seconds a day is extremely good for any mechanical watch and so I can understand your watchmakers reluctance to do anything to it, however good timekeeping is not always an indication of the movement condition

Maybe your watchmaker could just have a look at for you,run some tests and let you know if it needs any work. :thumbup:


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## jnash (Dec 6, 2010)

in regards to a watch being fast - another thing to look at is that maybe the watch needs to be demagnetised... especially the hairspring... check to see if the spring are close together...


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

Dusty said:


> One - two seconds a day is extremely good for any mechanical watch and so I can understand your watchmakers reluctance to do anything to it, however good timekeeping is not always an indication of the movement condition
> 
> Maybe your watchmaker could just have a look at for you,run some tests and let you know if it needs any work. :thumbup:


Yes - I'm sure that is right. I will get him to do it. It certainly should be lubricated properly, and I now have seen for myself that a naptha bath, even with the movement left running in it for an hour, does not remove all grot from the watch. I have seen that myself by stripping the Brac 51, resurrected from being totally stopped by the solvent (like my old Omega). I'll take it in soon and get it done. I need a new authentic crown, a set of hands and a new crystal for it as well as a service.



jnash said:


> in regards to a watch being fast - another thing to look at is that maybe the watch needs to be demagnetised... especially the hairspring... check to see if the spring are close together...


I've seen the effect of a stuck together hair spring from cack handed oiling attempts, but those tended to run crazily fast, like five minutes in the hour. The Brac movement is nothing like that fast, but I will have another close look at the hair spring. You are right to suggest it. Like I said, I am going to strip it all again just for the practice and do a minute inspection and clean. I posted the thread mainly because I was so pleased to have the old clunker apart and get it back together with it working - after a fashion.


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## jnash (Dec 6, 2010)

Tony1951 said:


> Dusty said:
> 
> 
> > One - two seconds a day is extremely good for any mechanical watch and so I can understand your watchmakers reluctance to do anything to it, however good timekeeping is not always an indication of the movement condition
> ...


I didnt see that it was only a few seconds, for a old watch then id be happy with that also...


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## Mr Whimpy (Jan 14, 2012)

i would be terrified to do that but well done and you have to start some time i guess

is it as hard as it looks or did you feel confident while doing it ?

again well done and a great start :thumbup:


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

Mr Whimpy said:


> i would be terrified to do that but well done and you have to start some time i guess
> 
> is it as hard as it looks or did you feel confident while doing it ?
> 
> again well done and a great start :thumbup:


I stripped it again this morning and did a proper clean this time. Rinsed the bits off in lighter fluid, then washed everything in mild solution of fairy liquid, rinsed thoroughly under running water (with two seives and a tea strainer to make sure nothing escaped down the plug hole), dried all in a cool oven, reassembled and oiled.

This is the second strip and rebuild of this one in about four days and was done just to try and improve my skill level. I'm as cack handed as you like but getting better as I practice.

No - my first attempt was not the greatest. I took apart the keyless works of a Â£5 Chinese skeleton pocket watch and lost the setting lever. God knows how, but it just sprang out of the watch as I lifted the retaining plate and vanished into a messy garage.

LESSON 1. Do not mess with your watch in a pigsty of a place where mm sized parts wil vanish forever into wood shavings and general crap.

The next attempt at that watch involved lifting the bridge of the running gear - the three wheels between the mainspring and the escape wheel. The watch had stopped and I assumed was fully let down.......... Lifted the bridge and the wheels spun like the Stig was driving the thing. Jewelled pallet went skywards along with second of the tiny screws that held the bridge down. After much searching in my neat and tidy, laminate floored office (Lesson 1 having been taken to heart) I recovered both, but one of the pallet jewels was missing and has never been found.

LESSON 2. ALways, ALWAYS, let down the spring by restraining the winding mechanism and lifting the click. NO EXCEPTION, even if you think it is down already. Even having done this twice to the Brac 51 pin lever, the running train still runs when I take the pallet out. Not a lot, but it spins a few rotations.

So far these are my disasters, but I have been learning and as everyone here will tell you, you must expect to break a few before you can do this thing. If it was easy, I would not be interested in it.

LESSON 3. Buy some old junk watches on ebay for under five quid and practice on them before you start on your grandfather's Omega. Again - NO EXCEPTIONS unless you are very well off and the piece has no value to you.

I'm just a total beginner having some fun and learning along the way.

Here's a picture of today's effort almost completely broken down. It still has the keyless works in the plate and the canon pinion and hour wheel on the front.


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

jnash said:


> I didnt see that it was only a few seconds, for a old watch then id be happy with that also...


Sorry Jnash, I have confused the issue here by talking to Dusty about another watch in the same post. The one or two seconds a day one is my Grandfather's / father's Omega which I inherited not long ago and Dusty had advised me about getting it properly serviced. I shouldn't have brought that up in this thread about an old clunker. Your comment about magnetism was well made. It wasn't that though, It just needed a touch on the regulator. Thanks for bringing it up. I am having to keep my rubbish screwdrivers well away from the balance wheel and spring. The better one I have is now magnetised. I've had oily springs sticking together and they are easily sorted, but I have no gear to unmagnetise a spring.


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## stiff muckler (Aug 27, 2010)

stiff would encourage you to fully disassemble da werks including da winding pinion and da clutch wheel.

Consider:

- brushing all surfaces, of all components (except da spiralin)

- cleaning da pivots in pithwood (the upper pivot of da Brac balancier staff ist challenging since da spiralin ist more or less "attached" to da balance bridge.)

- pegging all jewels and holes

These three (3) steps will correct 90%+ of all da neophyte's issues with regard to hygene.

sm iiH!

p.s. stiff ain't da fan of water - hot or cold - on any of da fournitures.


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks Stiff for the advice.

I'll break it down again in a few days and put all into practice. I reckon if I take this apart a half a dozen times and get it back together nice and cleanly, I will eventually be able to move on to movements that cost more than Â£4.99.

I was struggling with the concept of not brushing 'da spiralin' but I guess you mean the hair spring. Good job I used to work at GCHQ as a spymaster and can decode such secret messages. :lol:

I don't have pegwood bu I have used very sharp cocktail sticks.

Also, I have never dismantled that upper jewel on the balance staff since it is all screwed in and I can't get at it without touching my magnetised screwdriver to the top of the balance hairspring which I wanted to avoid. I know this is not right, but it looks ok under a x10 loupe and I rinsed it in silvent and then soapy and clean water.

On the oven thing, I took the oven to 120c , switched it off and put the damp parts in for twenty minutes while it cooled down. Probably not a great idea but I have run out of lighter fluid solvent so that's why I resorted to water for my final rises. Also, this is only a clunker so there is nothing to lose as I am mostly practising to get some dexterity. This is not coming to me fast by the way. I have a lot of trouble with the tweezers and getting screws back into holes.


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## stiff muckler (Aug 27, 2010)

In stiff's opinion you are doing vell.

- swiss anchor escapement calibres are easier to reassemble than pin levers

- wood toothpicks, flat or round are fine

- upgrade your tools when you feel it ist prudent

- der ist da decayed wood of da certain willow dat werks OK in place of pithwood

- if der are no solvents present, some styrofoam might be substituted for pithwood

- don't "overuse" Rodico

- avoid accidents

- da hairdryer (don't blow your parts away) or da tin can place over da small incandescent bulb can serve as da ersatz dryer

- strive to incorporate da best techiques as your abilities and resources allow.

stiff is super impressed with the attitude and emerging abilities of ALL the TWF forum members.

sm iiH!


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

I appreciate all advice and have bookmarked your list of points.

Thanks.

EDIT.

By the way, I find the hardest part to reassemble in this particular movement to be the pallet lever. The little beggar is very inclined to lie over, or tangle in the escape wheel as I am getting the bottom pivot into its hole. Then as the upper bridge is put in place, the damned thing jumps out again. It seems to be mostly caused because the lever to the pallet fork is quite long in this design and is not at 90 degrees to the arms like in some other designs. They tend to keep the thing standing upright even if a bit off-centre. This one just lies down flat at the slightest chance.


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## stiff muckler (Aug 27, 2010)

Attach da escape bridge to da main bridge but loosen da screw until it ist barely engaged. Then slip da lower pallet lever pivot into da main platine and swing escape bridge over da top pivot.

sm


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## Tony1951 (Dec 23, 2011)

stiff muckler said:


> Attach da escape bridge to da main bridge but loosen da screw until it ist barely engaged. Then slip da lower pallet lever pivot into da main platine and swing escape bridge over da top pivot.
> 
> sm


Thanks Mr Muckler. That is what I will do the next time.

Your advice is well received here.


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