# 7T32-6459



## new2the7A38 (Oct 6, 2010)

Ok...well things have worked out well with the 7A38...now for a 7T32.

I would like to remove the bracelet to replace the battery...or should I just

leave it on and just work around it? In that vein...it's a Z1506 bracelet. Do

I remove the pins or there looks to be a "latch" on either side of the bracelet or am I just

dreaming? And lastly...same battery as the 7A38? Hope ya'all don't mind me asking

for all this basic help..but, I've never even took a back off of a watch until yesterday.

John


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

new2the7A38 said:


> Ok...well things have worked out well with the 7A38...now for a 7T32.
> 
> I would like to remove the bracelet to replace the battery...or should I just
> 
> ...


I presume you mean 7T32-6*A*59 (not '4'), John ? Possibly the two-tone model ?

The battery is SR927W / 399.

You'll need a spring bar tool to release the 'pins' from inside the bracelet end pieces.

Those 'latches' you're looking at are probably the 'locating ears' on the back of the end pieces.



new2the7A38 said:


> Hope ya'all don't mind me asking for all this basic help..but, I've never even took a back off of a watch until yesterday.


BTW - Answers you could have easily found for yourself, with a little 'googling' or by running searches on this forum.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> BTW - Answers you could have easily found for yourself, with a little 'googling' or by running searches on this forum.


Here's a link to an earlier 7T32 thread you may find useful: http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=22197&hl=7T32&st=15


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> I presume you mean 7T32-6*A*59 (not '4'), John ? Possibly the two-tone model ?


And I'm guessing that this is the one you bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=390275483549&si=SH3ZuYhAM7aZ8DeNTgQukupLQ5w%253D&viewitem=#ht_3854wt_754 Right ? :smartass:

I've got a (modded) 7A38-7260 that looks a bit like your 7T32:


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## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> new2the7A38 said:
> 
> 
> > Ok...well things have worked out well with the 7A38...now for a 7T32.
> ...


Where did that come from?.....I didn't see 6A59 in the OP.....are you psychic, Paul?

Edit: apologies...the clue was in the thread title :bag:


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## 86latour (Jun 3, 2010)

Never seen one of these before, not surprising as my Seiko knowledge is very limited,

Did they make an automatic version of this?


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## new2the7A38 (Oct 6, 2010)

Roger the Dodger said:


> SEIKO7A38Fan said:
> 
> 
> > new2the7A38 said:
> ...


Yep...6A59 [A4]. BTW...I tried to fit a 399 generic purchased at Radio Shack said to be made by Duracell and I couldn't get

the back to snap back on. I made sure that the cutouts were aligned...but, no joy. Refit the old battery...and it was no problem

to get the back to snap in place with minimal force. Thinking of just taking it and having the battery replaced..but, I'm not sure about resetting the AC. I've read in a PDF file of the manual that pressing two of the pushers will reset the AC. Yes?


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

new2the7A38 said:


> Yep...6A59 [A4]. BTW...I tried to fit a 399 generic purchased at Radio Shack said to be made by Duracell and I couldn't get
> 
> the back to snap back on. I made sure that the cutouts were aligned...but, no joy. Refit the old battery...and it was no problem
> 
> to get the back to snap in place with minimal force. Thinking of just taking it and having the battery replaced..but, I'm not sure about resetting the AC. I've read in a PDF file of the manual that pressing two of the pushers will reset the AC. Yes?


I've had a few 7A38's (from the States) which came fitted with 'generic' (Energizer brand) #380/394's. :angry:

These batteries are oversized. Usually have to remove the +ve battery plate (2 screws on a 7A38) to get them out. :hammer:

You reset the AC on a 7T32 by shorting between the AC contact (visible in a small hole in the backplate) and the battery +ve.


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## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

I have a 7T32-7D80. (SQ100) I now have it on a padded leather with a deployment clasp. It has the black face with gilt edging to the dials and a gilt surround. It's one of my favourite Seikos. I had to fit a complete new movement which was a bit of a PITA (lining up all the dials) but well worth it. Enjoy. :thumbsup:

Mike


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## new2the7A38 (Oct 6, 2010)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> new2the7A38 said:
> 
> 
> > Yep...6A59 [A4]. BTW...I tried to fit a 399 generic purchased at Radio Shack said to be made by Duracell and I couldn't get
> ...


LOL...thanks for following this continuing "saga". Took it to a reputable jeweler..same problem. Their battery had the same

problem. Ok..time for the bay. Should I get a Seiko labeled battery?


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

new2the7A38 said:


> Took it to a reputable jeweler..same problem. Their battery had the same problem.
> 
> Ok..time for the bay. Should I get a Seiko labeled battery?


Seiko recommend Maxell. Try fitting a Maxell #399.

I have a couple of 7T32's I use as daily 'beaters' (both 7T32-7F80's - they have screw-on case-backs). :hammer:

I've had a couple more 7T32's (7T32-6Asomethings) with press-on case-backs pass through my hands.

Changed batteries on all of them (using Maxell #399's) at some point. Never had any problem myself. :hypocrite:


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

I used an Energizer 395, which according to this Wikipedia page, is the equivalent to the SR927, 399, SR57, ad infinitum. I dunno, Paul, could that be why the Yema 7T32 chrono minute hand wouldnt' move? I would doubt it.

Regardless, you're in good company. I have two of these, a 7T32-6M69, and a Yemawith the Epson equivalent movement. These are really useful watches, I like how the alarm display doubles as a dual time display.

Something I discovered that I don't think is in the manual or tech pub is that when you pull out Crown #2 to position C (all the way out), it hacks the alarm time circuit. So if you do hack both the main time and alarm time in sync to a time signal, the alarm display will tick over to the next minute at :00.

"Man invented time. Seiko perfected it."


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## new2the7A38 (Oct 6, 2010)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> new2the7A38 said:
> 
> 
> > Took it to a reputable jeweler..same problem. Their battery had the same problem.
> ...


Thanks everyone for you help and the replies. I purchased some Maxell 399's actually labeled SR927W and all is well.

Wellll...almost. Now the pusher for the alarm set is being a problem (very stiff)...but, it's not keeping the watch from keeping time. Oh well...my new "beater"...'til I get the next one...right?


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

new2the7A38 said:


> Now the pusher for the alarm set is being a problem (very stiff)....


Probably indicates that you need to take it out (by removing that tiny circlip) and clean it out and grease it. :hammer:

You'd be surprised at how much gunk can build up between the button and the seal. Sometimes quite disgusting. :yucky:

Oh, and before you ask .... just in case you lose the circlip - read this thread: http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=51988 :read:


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

new2the7A38 said:


> I purchased some Maxell 399's actually labeled SR927W and all is well.


John - I found this old 7T32 thread on WUS: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f21/seiko-7t32-chronograph-help-needed-313612.html#post2313844 - Note the posters' point # 2.


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## new2the7A38 (Oct 6, 2010)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> new2the7A38 said:
> 
> 
> > I purchased some Maxell 399's actually labeled SR927W and all is well.
> ...


Thank you for your help. I must admit that I'm not confident in taking the back off again to adjust timing (watch is running slow)or rework the pushers. I guess I'm just afraid of screwing the whole thing up. I'm asking the forum if they recommend anyone here or any shop either in the UK or US that would repair this watch for a "reasonable" amount. Maybe I'll give my jeweler a shot or try and find a watch maker or such. Is Seiko USA a reasonable shot?

John


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

new2the7A38 said:


> Thank you for your help. I must admit that I'm not confident in taking the back off again to adjust timing (watch is running slow)or rework the pushers. I guess I'm just afraid of screwing the whole thing up. I'm asking the forum if they recommend anyone here or any shop either in the UK or US that would repair this watch for a "reasonable" amount. Maybe I'll give my jeweler a shot or try and find a watch maker or such.


John.

I think I read somewhere in that thread on WUS (or maybe elswhere), that the 7T32 is considered a $40 buck watch.

Indeed, what did you pay for yours ? It just simply doesn't make economic sense to send it to a watch repairer. :no:



new2the7A38 said:


> Is Seiko USA a reasonable shot?


And as for Seiko USA, erm I've read some fairly negative things about them. :thumbsdown:

Try googling 'Seiko + Coserv': http://www.google.co.uk/search?rlz=1C1CHMZ_enGB313GB325&aq=f&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=coserv#hl=en&xhr=t&q=coserv+seiko&cp=8&pf=p&sclient=psy&safe=off&rlz=1C1CH


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