# Newbie - Want To Learn How To Clean A Fusee



## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

Hello to all

I have just started to collect english fusee and verge.

All the escapements i have now are either, none working or not serviced for a very long time.

I would love to learn how to clean and repair my collection, but then because i am pretty new at this i haven't had the guts to open either one of them yet.

Can any of you guy please point me to the right direction where and what are the best books for me to learn how to take them apart, clean and of course putting it back together?

Thank you

NG


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## ValvesRule (May 20, 2009)

I don't know any books, but I have dissasembled one of my Verge FusÃ©es several times so I hope I can be of some help.

There used to be a website with a transcript of a book about basic Verge Watch servicing for beginners. I can't remember what the book was called, and the website (www.horologia.co.uk) appears to have dissapeared.

For a start, do you have the guts to remove the movement from the case?

Out of curiosity, what dates are your Watches?

I would like to encourage you to get your Watches running, as I am a fan of Verge FusÃ©es and believe them to be the most fascinating Movements to observe in operation.


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## Mikrolisk (Jan 23, 2008)

I'd recommend you this book:

Christopher Barrow, The Pocket Watch - Restauration, Maintenance and Repair

NAG Press (2009), isbn 9-780719-803703

And if you're want to see some pictures of such a cleaning, visit that page of my website:

http://www.mikrolisk.de/show.php/205/chapter_10

Alas, all comments for the pictures are in german language (Babelfish could translate  )

Andreas


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

ValvesRule said:


> I don't know any books, but I have dissasembled one of my Verge FusÃ©es several times so I hope I can be of some help.
> 
> There used to be a website with a transcript of a book about basic Verge Watch servicing for beginners. I can't remember what the book was called, and the website (www.horologia.co.uk) appears to have dissapeared.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot ValvesRule

I am a little ashamed to say that at the moment i have only 6 in my collection

1st omega (my first pocket watch i found in a antique market. Started to get interested and researched a little about pocket watches and felt in love)

2nd Henry Enock 1863 Fusee Lever

3rd J.W Benson again another Fusee Lever 1856

4th Berthoud - French Verge (chain hook broken)

5th William Brown - Harleston Verge (couldn't find any details of the maker yet)

6th Tho Robinson - London Verge (couldn't find any details of the maker yet)

Yes, I have tried to remove the movement from the case and figured out how to remove the dial.

Thats actually as far as i got in disassembling.

I would love to be able to fix the Berthoud i have as i broke the hook by accidentally overwound it.

Guess it would make sense to get a cheap verge movement to practices on first right?

kind regards

NG


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

Mikrolisk said:


> I'd recommend you this book:
> 
> Christopher Barrow, The Pocket Watch - Restauration, Maintenance and Repair
> 
> ...


Thank you Andreas

Your step by step look amazing! i think that will be my next weekend's adventure!

Thanks for the book tip too, just about to order myself one of that.

Can't wait to get started.

P.S. How long does it take to completely disassemble a movement apart and reassemble it back?


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## Mikrolisk (Jan 23, 2008)

How long? Well, just disassemling a watch goes right fast, about 15 minutes. Reassembling it takes a wee bit longer, perhaps 20 minutes (if that f...ing chain keeps stick on the barrel and the fusee *lol*).

Cheers,

Andreas


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

oh wow, 20 mins.

And i thought it would take around a day or 2 to do.

Just finished fixing my 1st dial. (not the best job, hope i will have more time to practice)

Next mission, the movement.

Before (after a little clean)










After


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## ValvesRule (May 20, 2009)

*KEEP ALL PARTS IN A SECURE CONTAINER. THERE ARE **VERY TINY PARTS** IN WATCHES.*

Just thought I'd point that out.

With the movement out, remove the Motion Work (the loose wheels which drive the Hour Hand) or you are likley to loose it.

Next, remove the Balance Cock and Balance proper.

The Cock is quite simple; just withdraw the screw[s in some French watches], and carefully lever off the Cock being sure not to tilt it sharply. You risk bending the very deliacate Rear Balance Pivot, and if you try to bend it back, you are almost certain to break it off.

I am assuming here that the Balance Spring is anchored on the Back Plate, not on the Balance Cock as in later watches...

To remove the balance, you must first release the Balance Spring from its anchor-block (name?). First, scratch a small mark in the Back Plate to note the end of the Balance Spring so that you can put it back when you reassamble it.

Push out the pin with the flat of a small screwdriver on the narrow end. If you cannot see the sizes of the ends of the pin, then usually the pin is pushed out away from the end of the Spring.

I suggest that you pull with tweezers, rather than push, the Spring out of the block. If you push, you may bend the Spring, and eventually break it.

With the Spring free, withdraw the Balance. You may have to do a little bit of wiggling to get the Verges (Pallets) past the Crown (Escape) Wheel.

At some point, the train will whizz round at high speed as any remaining Mainspring tension is released.

*DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU KNOW THE WATCH TO BE WOUND UP!*

This will cause the FusÃ©e Chain to become slack, and it may be removed.

If you only want to clean the FusÃ©e, then you can remove the Chain now.

If you want to carry on dissassembling, then I would recommend leaving it on the Cone for now.



Mikrolisk said:


> ...just disassemling a watch goes right fast, about 15 minutes. Reassembling it takes a wee bit longer, perhaps 20 minutes (if that chain keeps stick on the barrel and the fusee *lol*).


I would agree with this.

Well done with the Dial, by the way.


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## Barrow Boy (Mar 10, 2009)

ngdesign said:


> oh wow, 20 mins.
> 
> And i thought it would take around a day or 2 to do.
> 
> ...


This is a great job. If you don't mind me asking; what did you fill the dial with?

Cheers,

BB


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

ValvesRule said:


> Next, remove the Balance Cock and Balance proper.
> 
> The Cock is quite simple; just withdraw the screw[s in some French watches], and carefully lever off the Cock being sure not to tilt it sharply. You risk bending the very deliacate Rear Balance Pivot, and if you try to bend it back, you are almost certain to break it off.
> 
> ...


I think this part scares me most, sounds like every move i make i might break something.

But i am well excited to try it out this weekend.

Thank for taking your time to write me an instruction! 



> Well done with the Dial, by the way.


Thanks! I am still trying to find a way to clean the deeper scratches, but not sure if i should try alcohol or not


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

Barrow Boy said:


> This is a great job. If you don't mind me asking; what did you fill the dial with?
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> BB


I used polyfilla to fix the chips (those thing to fill in the bathroom tiling crack)

After i few trials, i figure out that because we only need a tiny amount so they dry within 10 - 15 mins (not 1-2 hours - stated on the tube)


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

Just started disassemble this spare old grimy verge movement, it's cover in dust.

Thank god, it's not rusty (well, some parts yes)


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

managed to polish up a little yesterday night!


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## ValvesRule (May 20, 2009)

Well done.


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

Thank you ValvesRule

Now that i have taken the movement apart as far as i could.

May i ask you to teach me where i should use the watch oil when you have a little time?

(I am still waiting my chain, hopefully it will arrive sometimes this week)










Also i found a lot of names engraved underneath the fusee barrel (makers or repair master's name?)

At first it freaked me out a little, i heard that they usually scratch their name inside the case after repair, but never knew they did it underneath the barrel too.


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## sheepshearer (Oct 27, 2009)

this is great - like seeing engines dismantled and reassembled, only a damn sight cleaner and without skinning your knuckles. well done and keep the pics coming


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## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

Any watch repairing or servicing is best left to the experts but..... if you are determined to "have a go"....Try to get a hold of some of Donald de Carle's books. I found them on t'interweb. Also this link is helpful as a start:-

http://www.thewatchguy.com/pages/repair.html

Hope I'm allowed to post links???? Mods please correct me if I'm wrong. Apologies in advance.

Mike


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

sheepshearer said:


> this is great - like seeing engines dismantled and reassembled, only a damn sight cleaner and without skinning your knuckles. well done and keep the pics coming


Thanks sheepshearer

Photos will keep coming, still waiting for my books so i know how to put the chain in. (Some more spare parts are on their way too)

Meanwhile i am practicing putting the whole thing together and re-disassembling the movement.










There were of course some troubles too, the 3rd and 4th wheel were giving me headache as they were very unstable and constantly moving around everytime i am trying to put the bottom lid back on.

(guess i need more practice)












tixntox said:


> Any watch repairing or servicing is best left to the experts but..... if you are determined to "have a go"....Try to get a hold of some of Donald de Carle's books. I found them on t'interweb. Also this link is helpful as a start:-
> 
> http://www.thewatchguy.com/pages/repair.html
> 
> ...


Thank you tixntox

Because i am fairly new to this scene, i just wanted to learn more about the built so i won't be collecting blindly.

I purchased this spare movement to start off with, even if i never ever get to put this movement back to life, it wouldn't really hurt my wallet that bad HEHE

Anyway, get it back to life is still my dream project, glad all you guys are so nice and giving me some reading lists to help out a newbie like me.

I will keep updating this thread.

NG


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## Mikrolisk (Jan 23, 2008)

Forget the 3rd wheel, on the plate (dial-sided) you can remove a small bridge. Do this, assemble all other, then the 3rd wheel with that small bridge...

Andreas


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## ValvesRule (May 20, 2009)

Mikrolisk said:


> Forget the 3rd wheel, on the plate (dial-sided) you can remove a small bridge. Do this, assemble all other, then the 3rd wheel with that small bridge...


With a bit of wiggling, the Contrate (4th) Wheel can also be inserted this way (before the 3rd; obviously).



> May i ask you to teach me where i should use the watch oil when you have a little time?
> 
> ...still waiting for my books...


Until your books arrive, the following should suffice.

Probably the best way to oil the Crown Wheel Pivots is with the Back Plate removed. One Pivot is on the Potence, and the other is the Follower. Place a drop of oil at each end of the Arbor, then give it a spin.










Assemble the Movement, apart from the Balance and Cock.

On the outer surfaces of both Plates are small dips with the Pivot-holes at their centres. These are called Oil Sinks. Place a drop of oil in each of these Sinks. With the Balance and Chain not present, you can spin the entire Train to run the oil in.

There should be three Sinks on each Plate; one for the Centre Wheel, another for the 3rd Wheel, and another for the Contrate Wheel.

Unless they are particuarly grimey, you shouldn't need to oil the Great Wheel (FusÃ©e Cone) or Mainspring Arbors.

To oil the Balance, place a drop of oil in the Pivot-hole at the top of the Potence, and another in the hole in the Cock.

Then put the Balance and Cock back.



> ...i heard that they usually scratch their name inside the case after repair,...


An alternative to this is to leave a small circular advertisment in the Outer Case [of a Pair Case].



> ...but never knew they did it underneath the barrel too.


It became (and I believe, still is,) common practice to replace the Mainspring at every service, whether it needed it or not. The barrel would therefore be accessed as a matter of course.

Thank you for the photographs.

This movement appears to be identical to that in my 1814 Watch.

Incidentally, I've seen no sign of the Set-up Ratchet. It is a very small wheel which lives on the outside of the Front Plate on the square end of the Mainspring Arbor, along with a Pawl screwed to the Plate. If you have this, fine; but if you don't, the Movement will not run under its own power as the Ratchet anchors one end of the Mainspring.


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## ngdesign (Nov 5, 2009)

Thanks ValvesRule!

I had the weekend planned to play around with the escapement, turned out i got slapped with a big project from a client (-_-)


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