# Good Polishing Service (And By Good I Mean 'Cheap')!



## kevkojak (May 14, 2009)

Hi guys. Just curious, does anyone have any tips on where to get a decent case and bracelet polish at a good price?

I've got a local watchmaker but he deals mainly with high end Swiss. A case and b/let refurb there (including re-patterning matt/polished links etc) is Â£80.

I dont object to splashing out on my watches, but the Seiko's I'm currently into are pretty in-expensive and this just feels like a bit much to pay. I've had a few recently from e.bay and second hand jewellers which have cost peanuts, usually Â£30-Â£50 for fixer-uppers. I can have a new glass fitted for Â£15 (Â£25 for sapphlex), but I like my watches to look like new to be honest - if only for a few weeks! 

I just want to know if there are any services charging less or is this the norm for a full refurb? I have the facilities to give a buff up with a polishing wheel, but not to strip a watch down and remove deeper marks.

Also, if anyone can advise on where offers PVD treatment for steel watch case and bracelet and what sort of dosh are we talking for that?

Many thanks. Kev.


----------



## bry1975 (Feb 6, 2004)

Hi Kev,

PVD work isn't cheap.

Regs

Bry


----------



## cgs (Oct 28, 2009)

bry1975 said:


> Hi Kev,
> 
> PVD work isn't cheap.
> 
> ...


Hi Bry,

Any idea were i can get a 22mm pilot bracelet polished please.

And what would it cost me.

TIA

Colin


----------



## kevkojak (May 14, 2009)

bry1975 said:


> Hi Kev,
> 
> PVD work isn't cheap.
> 
> ...


Hmmm, figured PVD treatment would cost a bit, got an off-white dial chrono that would really suit it though.

I'll stick to finding a decent priced polishing service for the time being.


----------



## clockworks (Apr 11, 2010)

DIY is the way to go. Stripping a watch isn't difficult, you just need the right tools - strap/bracelet spring bar tool, caseback tool, small punch for the stem release button and tweezers for refitting the pusher C clips.

The caseback tool and tweezers are the expensive ones. Use poor quality items, and you'll do more damage.

I start by removing everything from the case, except the crystal. I polish out any marks on glass crystals, using a kit I got on eBay for Â£10. Before I use any coarse polishing compounds, I mask the case with 2" masking tape. Lay the tape on a sheet of glass, then cut out a circle using a compass cutter.

I replace badly damaged acrylic crystals, as replacements are cheap and easy to fit with a cheap crystal press.

Once the crystal has been polished, I mask it with the circle cut out of tape earlier.

Using wet-or-dry paper (used dry), I remove all the marks and dings from the steel case and bracelet. Start with 320 grit, and work down to 1200 grit (for brushed or satin areas) or 2000 grit (for polished areas). Each time you go to a smaller grit, wash the case thoroughly.

Once you've got a nice, even finish (satin or polished), you can apply the final finish. Use the correct grit wet-or-dry paper for the desired brushed finish, then go over it with a green Scotchbrite pad. This knocks off the roughness, creating an even sheen.

Polished areas can be buffed (by hand) using Solvol Autosol chrome polish, maybe a final wipe with Brasso.

For mixed finishes on cases, stick your paper to a small piece of wood to avoid rounding off edges.

For brushed/polished bracelets, it's often easiest to polish the entire bracelet, then mask off the areas that need to keep a polished finish. Apply the brushed finish, using wet-or-dry paper followed by Scotchbrite, then remove the masking.

It takes a while to do all this, but the results can be almost to factory standard. I guess it depends on how much you value your free time.


----------



## Guest (Apr 19, 2010)

clockworks said:


> DIY is the way to go. Stripping a watch isn't difficult, you just need the right tools - strap/bracelet spring bar tool, caseback tool, small punch for the stem release button and tweezers for refitting the pusher C clips.
> 
> The caseback tool and tweezers are the expensive ones. Use poor quality items, and you'll do more damage.
> 
> ...


What grade of scotchbrite pad would you recommend ?,It seems they only go as fine as 1200 grade.So as long as the preceding wet or dry is'nt rougher than 1200,this method is a goer,Yes ?.


----------



## clockworks (Apr 11, 2010)

I use a green Scotchbrite pad, bought in Tescos as a pan scourer. Use the pad dry, and continually swap to a fresh surface, shaking the dust out.

Using different grades of wet-or-dry followed by the Scotchbrite pad will give you different finishes. I get the base finish using the paper, then use the pad to soften the base finish. For a brushed finish, where you can see each individual scratch with the naked eye, use 320 grit paper. For a satin finish, use 1200 grit paper.

If you just use paper, you get a very bright finish, which catches the light. Every defect in the paper strokes shows up. Going over it with Scotchbrite rounds off the sharp edges of each scratch, creating a more even finish. It only takes a couple of strokes of the pad - the main work is done with the paper.

Since you only take off a minute amount of metal (after you've removed all the dings), it's not a problem to experiment with this process. If you don't like the finish, use fine grade paper to remove it, then have another go.

The important thing is to wash everything thoroughly each time you switch to a finer grade. Use an old, worn, toothbrush under a running tap.

If you plan on refinishing several watches, it's worth buying a cheap ultrasonic cleaner for about Â£20 on eBay. For cleaning cases and bracelets, I use warm water and a dash of Fairy Liquid as the cleaning agent. You can get a surprising amount of gunk out a seemingly clean second hand steel bracelet!

Scotchbrite pads (used wet) are also excellent for rubbing down paintwork between coats, or keying metal and plastic before spraying primer. Make sure it's a genuine Scotchbrite pad, as some other makes are far too abrasive.


----------



## clockworks (Apr 11, 2010)

Some pics of a Citizen Blue Angels that I picked up on eBay. I bought 2 watches for Â£60. Sold the other one for Â£35, so this one cost me Â£25. Unfortunately I didn't take any "before" pics, but you can see from the damage to the bezel how bad the rest of the watch was! I cant believe that someone could do so much damage to what is a fairly expensive watch in less than 4 years.




























The seller had attacked the crystal with a piece of sandpaper in an attempt to remove some very deep scratches. I seriously thought about consigning it to the spares box, as the movement and dial are perfect. I had some time to spare, so I decided to try and salvage it. No point in going too far with the finish, as it'll only ever be a beater with the bezel in that condition. Didn't come out too bad, I think. I also had to fit a new crown and stem, so, with materials, it cost me Â£35


----------



## kevkojak (May 14, 2009)

Wow, interesting stuff.

It hadn't occurred to me to attempt it myself. I'm quite worried about removing the movement, and damaging the stem.

Is it as easy to polish a bracelet in this way? 320 down to 1200? And all this by hand?

Thanks for the walk-through! Kev


----------



## clockworks (Apr 11, 2010)

kevkojak said:


> Wow, interesting stuff.
> 
> It hadn't occurred to me to attempt it myself. I'm quite worried about removing the movement, and damaging the stem.
> 
> ...


Bracelets are pretty easy, unless they have polished/brushed stripes down them which you to want to keep. I remove the clasp, and work on the parts separately.

I find it easiest to work with the links on my knee, resting on a piece of kitchen towel to keep my clothes clean. You can move the bracelet around, flexing it to get into all the nooks and crannies between the links, although most of the damage will be on the tops of curved links where it's easy to reach.

Most of the brushed work on the Blue Angels was done with a worn piece of 320 grit paper (I'd run out of 600 grit!), followed by the Scotchbrite pad, then a wipe with Solvol Autosol. The pushers were done with 1200 and 2000, then Solvol Autosol. Once the case and bracelet were stripped, I spent about 2 hours doing the refinishing. The crystal took half a day. Add in the time to strip and reassemble, you can see why a jeweller charges so much. Most of the work can be done during free time, like while watching TV.

If you do break a stem, it's not the end of the world on most watches. Parts are surprisingly cheap. A pack of 3 stems and a crown for the Citizen cost me Â£10. If you know where to press (or what screw to loosen), it's easy and safe to pull out the crown with your fingernails.

You can speed things up by using power tools (especially when polishing crystals), but it's a bit messy if you haven't got a dedicated polishing area in your workshop.

I repair clocks in a spare bedroom, and just do watches for my own amusement.


----------



## Guest (Apr 19, 2010)

clockworks said:


>


And does'nt it work well !.

''Bracelets are pretty easy, unless they have polished/brushed stripes down them which you to want to keep.'' clockworks

It's possible to buy a heat resistant Polyimide tape to use as masking for just this job.

Although,It's probably better suited to resisting the giving nature of an abrasive loaded cotton [Power] buff.


----------



## clockworks (Apr 11, 2010)

littlealex said:


> It's possible to buy a heat resistant Polyimide tape to use as masking for just this job.
> 
> Although,It's probably better suited to resisting the giving nature of an abrasive loaded cotton [Power] buff.


Thanks for posting the proper name for this tape. I've been using normal masking tape, but, even when polishing by hand, it gets nasty and sticky with the heat.

I've found the proper stuff, in various widths, on the Cousins website, but they insist on calling it "polymide tape" with a missing "i".

I'll add some to my next order.


----------



## Guest (Apr 19, 2010)

clockworks said:


> littlealex said:
> 
> 
> > It's possible to buy a heat resistant Polyimide tape to use as masking for just this job.
> ...


Did'nt know Cousins kept it,Was going by Ofrei's website.

Do let us know how you got on after trying it out.


----------



## clockworks (Apr 11, 2010)

The Cousins "own brand" tape is very cheap - from less than Â£2 for a 100' roll - so I'll definitely be getting some to try. Might be a few weeks, though.


----------

