# G10 Spring Bars



## bill (Oct 16, 2004)

Does anybody know how to remove the 'original' solid strap retaining bars, so i can use a leather strap with the more conventional springbars.

Thanks

Bill


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## Griff (Feb 23, 2003)

Only a skilled workshop man will be able to get/drill them out

Forget it!!!!


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## jasonm (Nov 22, 2003)

I suppose it is possible to cut the bars, I would cut them with a couple of mm's 'proud' of the lugs and carefully use a file to get flush, then you will have to drill through the lugs with a very fine bit from the outside in.

Good luck!!

It will be very easy to bugger the job up.









I would personaly just buy one of Roys Fleiger leather straps with the threaded rivets that you can use with fixed bars, or a leather NATO...


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## Griff (Feb 23, 2003)

It's supposed to be as it is. Military watches are no good if spring bars flick out when a soldier is active/knocks his watch.


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## PhilM (Nov 5, 2004)

jasonm said:


> I suppose it is possible to cut the bars, I would cut them with a couple of mm's 'proud' of the lugs and carefully use a file to get flush, then you will have to drill through the lugs with a very fine bit from the outside in.
> 
> Good luck!!
> 
> ...


To much at risk for me







To much damage that can be done to a lovely watch.


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## Duarte (May 18, 2005)

bill said:


> Does anybody know how to remove the 'original' solid strap retaining bars, so i can use a leather strap with the more conventional springbars.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ...


Don't. Use open ended leatther straps. Try eBay sellers RMNILSEN and RUSTWATCH, both have excellent selctions. Maybe a Jurgens pilot strap would look good?

Here is an open ended strap from RMNILSEN


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## jasonm (Nov 22, 2003)

Or this selection


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## Griff (Feb 23, 2003)

Or this


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## bry1975 (Feb 6, 2004)

The lads are right. Don't try drilling the lugs out














316L Stainless is notoriously gummy and with 1-2mm drill bits, you'd have no chance even if you have a fast helix and slow feedrate, to easy to huck up.

Bry



Griff said:


> Or this
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## jasonm (Nov 22, 2003)

> even if you have a fast helix and slow feedrate,


Yeah....What he said


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## PhilM (Nov 5, 2004)

jasonm said:


> > even if you have a fast helix and slow feedrate,
> 
> 
> Yeah....What he said
> ...


Yeah I second that


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## Duarte (May 18, 2005)

bry1975 said:


> The lads are right. Don't try drilling the lugs out
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Those are great, and probably more convenient to buy for someone in the UK.


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## ETCHY (Aug 3, 2004)

Don't do it, besides the risk of wrecking it, the G10's a classic & IMHO just wouldn't be right with normal 'bars (use one of the straps already suggested instead).

Or

If you want sprung bars on a military style of watch get an RLT69 ( I can recommend it).

Cheers

Dave


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## Stan (Aug 7, 2003)

The RLT6 is a good watch at a good price too.









I wouldn't take the chance of buggering up a WWEGS (G10) it's a classic.


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## bill (Oct 16, 2004)

After reading all the replys i decided not to remove the original bars. I had one of Roys USA Oiled Leather Padded straps in brown lying around so i decided to do some experimenting.

I cut the last two stitches next to the spring bar hole, and using a very sharp stanley blade sliced the leater open along the glue line. Then it was a simple matter of wrapping it around the G10's bars, a bit of evo-stick, and using two needles on one bit of thread (a leathermakers overstitch i think its called) resewed the stitching using the original holes.

It looks great, and once i can work out the picture uploading procedure, i'll post sone pictures.

Thanks Guys

Bill


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## jasonm (Nov 22, 2003)

Im sure thats the right thing to do Bill....


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## pg tips (May 16, 2003)

theres a guide to posting pictures BY CLICKING HERE Bill. Sounds like a sensible solution, you'd have never have drilled the case without a pro pillar drill.


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