# Spring bars



## Roger (May 17, 2003)

Now that my dexterity is not so good, I,m wondering whether quick-release spring bars can be fitted to good quality leather straps?

I already have a few (mostly from Christopher Ward ) and find them useful.

How hard is to fit them?

Roger


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## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

That is a good question, Roger, and one which I too would like an answer to. I have never been brilliant at fine motor control or hand/eye co-ordination, and as arthritis slowly extends its grip, I would appreciate an easier way to change straps where spring bars are used.


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## Roger (May 17, 2003)

> That is a good question, Roger, and one which I too would like an answer to. I have never been brilliant at fine motor control or hand/eye co-ordination, and as arthritis slowly extends its grip, I would appreciate an easier way to change straps where spring bars are used.


 Yes...the ones that I have work well...I have a load of straps that I like to swap around...be much easier for me too

Roger


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## JoT (Aug 12, 2003)

You would have to be adept at cutting a small notch in the strap spring bar loop to accommodate the quick release catch - sounds difficult to me unless you buy a notch cutter from Cousins at £364.95!

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/notch-cutter-tool-quick-release-spring-bars?code=C32108


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## WRENCH (Jun 20, 2016)

It is relatively straightforward. I did a post somewhere, on how, but the pics are long gone. Here's a rough guide.

Mark out hole using spring bar as a guide,










Place something in the springbar hole to support the strap and use a small HSS drill bit and twist between your thumb and index finger to make the ends of the hole for the spring bar lug, then pare off the material in between with a small craft knife to make the hole parallel.










Once you've done that, fit the spring bar.

















I practiced on an old strap first, and have since done a few without any mishaps. It takes me around 15 minutes.


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## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

Wow! That price for a proper notch cutter got me thinking, and I had an experiment with an old strap and a leather hole punch (about £8). Roger said he wasn't very dextrous, so I didn't want to mess about with scalpels or craft knives. Using a hole punch seemed like a logical solution...the only requirement being a flat surface to insert into the springbar hole to prevent the punch going right through. Here's how I got on.

The strap...an old, knackered one.









I used the tang of a small file to provide a flat surface to punch onto and prevent going right through...the actual anvil on the pliers is brass, to prevent blunting the punch, but this is all I had to hand.









Insert into the hole.









I put a piece of masking tape on the back of the strap to prevent the plier anvil marking it.









Now select the smallest punch...in this case, 2mm.









Position carefully and punch the hole...in this case I did a second punch overlapping the first to create an oval.









I did think about squeezing the punch in my vice to make it oval, but being hardened, it would probably have cracked...however, overlapping the holes seems to have worked OK.

If I was going to do this on a regular basis, I would probably hunt around for a small sliver of flat brass sheet to insert into the hole as the anvil. I would imagine it would be easier to insert the quick release spring bar with the tiny bolt facing the stitched end of the hole, then revolve it so the bolt pokes through the notch afterwards.

Anyhow, just an idea, which I hope may help.

EDIT: @WRENCH beat me to it...he was writing as I was playing! Similar method and result, though... :thumbsup:


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## Jonesinamillion (Feb 21, 2016)

They are a bit of a game changer... had a few, most recently on an Oris Big crown pointer.


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## Roger (May 17, 2003)

Thanks everyone for the replies and guides...

I am inspired to give it a try...off to order the springbars now...

Roger


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## Roger the Dodger (Oct 5, 2009)

As an addendum to the above, the smallest punch on my revolving tool (pictured above) was 2mm, however you can get down to 1mm if you buy a small hole punch thus...(the 'Type B' appear to be the more robust)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-Mini-Hole-Punches-Leather-Craft-Paper-Craft-Scrapbook-Printing-1-2-3mm/221264333363?hash=item338461ca33:g:9aoAAMXQwwlSAAvx

Obviously, these need to be tapped with a hammer after inserting a suitable anvil in the hole...again, I would use a narrow piece of flat brass strip. Alternatively, if holding the punch and a hammer is difficult, I found a wooden handled automatic punch that looks as though it spins like the old 'Yankee' screwdriver as you press down on it, helping to cut through the leather. The smallest punch this comes with is 1.5mm, which should be fine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-in-1-Wood-Automatic-Hole-Punch-Cutter-Book-Drill-Tool-for-Sewing-Leather-Shoes/123839227875?hash=item1cd564a7e3:g:ewwAAOSwlxddLwR1

As I did above, you might need to overlap two holes to form an oval. With either of these two methods, there should be no fear of damaging the front face of the strap as it won't be squeezed between pliers...a flat, clean surface is all you need.

Hope this is food for thought.


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## Roger (May 17, 2003)

Roger the Dodger said:


> As an addendum to the above, the smallest punch on my revolving tool (pictured above) was 2mm, however you can get down to 1mm if you buy a small hole punch thus...(the 'Type B' appear to be the more robust)
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Small-Mini-Hole-Punches-Leather-Craft-Paper-Craft-Scrapbook-Printing-1-2-3mm/221264333363?hash=item338461ca33:g:9aoAAMXQwwlSAAvx
> 
> ...


 Thanks for that...

I do have a leather punch so will try that..

I did order some bars this morning so looking forward to trying it.

Again my thanks for all the help.

Roger


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