# Loose 6309 Bezel



## MIKE (Feb 23, 2003)

I have acquired a Seiko 6309 divers, with a loose bezel









I can take it off with ease just using my thumb nail









The ball bearing is there for the "click" but nothing else. Should there be a spring, as seen on some bezels?

If so, are these obtainable or are there any tricks to tighten it up and most importantly so it can not come off









Thanks

Mike


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## Rusty (May 3, 2006)

MIKE said:


> I have acquired a Seiko 6309 divers, with a loose bezel
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 The spring should be under the click ball Mike, there is no ratchet type ring under the bezel on 6309, the ball does all the work.

As for tightening up the loose bezel, is there an o-ring on the inside of the bezel once you take it off? if not, there should be - this is the source of many a loose bezel. Failing that i can only gues that either the bezel, or woe betide, the case is worn to the point of making the bezel loose. O-ring is usually the culprit though fella









Rusty


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## strange_too (Feb 19, 2007)

If you need to get hold of a new O ring, my local supplier is very helpful. I can also give you the size for the spring if needs be.


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## MIKE (Feb 23, 2003)

Thanks for the replies, chaps 

It would appear I need an O ring as this is not in the bezel, though I'm not to sure if this would stop the bezel lifting off with such ease









If you could point me in the right direction for getting an O ring I would be grateful.

If not I will improvise with a bit of wire







to see if that will do the trick.

Mike


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## strange_too (Feb 19, 2007)

I'll PM you.


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## Rusty (May 3, 2006)

I wouldn't think the o-ring will cure it if the bezel comes off that easily. Perhaps you may need to source a new bezel for it, though try the ring first, it may be acceptable.


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## redpen (Mar 14, 2012)

Â

Hello. Â I&#39;m a new member in this site forum - just joined last week. Â My office mate and I are Seiko 6309 diver&#39;s watch fans, and we also have the same problem - the bezels of our watches come off easily with the use of just our fingernails. Â Changing the O-ring would tighten the rotational movement of the bezel, but it would still pop-off easily without the use of a bezel knife. Â

Â

The reason the bezel pops off easily is because the underside circumference of the bezel (where the notches for the click ball are located) has become bigger by perhaps a fraction of a millimeter probably due to the repeated prying off and snapping back of the bezel onto the case. Â Because of this looseness, the bezel no longer seats snugly under the narrow lip machined into the case that is supposed to hold it firmly in place.

Â

My friend and I have been thinking of a solution to this problem until one day my friend suggested using a hose clamp (those typical, replacement band-type ones used for car radiator hoses) to "shrink" the underside circumference of the bezel. Â The idea struck me as very simple and yet sensible, so as soon as I got home from work that day, I took a hold of a spare replacement radiator hose clamp for my car and a screwdriver.

Â

Summarized below in five simple steps is the procedure I performed in restoring my bezel: Â

Â

First, I took out the bezel from my watch and, using one hand, positioned the bezel inside the hose clamp, the circumference of which was initially a bit large. Â (Taking the insert out of the bezel was not necessary.)

Â

Second, with the other hand, I turned the hose clamp&#39;s tightening screw/bolt with a screwdriver to decrease the clamp&#39;s circumference to a size small enough so that the bezel wouldn&#39;t slip out of the hose clamp. Â The hose clamp has notches along the band onto which the tightening bolt&#39;s thread grips to produce the tightening or loosening action as the bolt is turned. Â By looking through those notches, I adjusted the bezel&#39;s position to make sure it was perfectly centered throughout the inside of the band of the hose clamp.

Â

Third, holding the clamp steady with one hand, I then slowly and very carefully tightened the clamp. Â In order not to apply too much turning force or torque, I used a chubby screw driver. Â (A wrench would be a bad idea because it will apply excessive torque.) Â Once I felt the hose clamp tighten hard and solid around the bezel and noticed that tightening it any further required a lot more effort, I stopped turning the bolt. Â

Â

Fourth, I loosened the tightening bolt of the hose clamp to release the bezel. Â The bezel still looked very much the same, like nothing happened.

Â

Fifth and final step, I snapped the bezel back onto the watch. Â I was totally surprised and happy to see that the bezel had indeed tightened! Â It wouldn&#39;t come off easily anymore with just my fingernails. Â I would definitely need a bezel knife to pry it off. Â It also rotated snugly, producing a crisp, clicking sound as it turnedÂ - - - just like it was new again.

Â

Next day in the office, my friend and I did the same procedure on his bezel and we came up with exactly the same results - a tight, like-new bezel.

Â

I am sharing this technique with you guys who have the same problem. Â If you decide to try this solution, just remember to be very careful in tightening the hose clamp. Â Do not over-tighten. Â Otherwise, you might end up crushing your bezel. Â Also make sure the bezel is not askew but rather centered perfectly inside the band of the hose clamp. Â Otherwise, the bezel might end up distorted or out of true. Â

Â

If this technique works for you, please post your replies or comments because I will be glad to know about them.


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## redpen (Mar 14, 2012)

Hello. I'm a new member in this site forum - just joined last week. My office mate and I are Seiko 6309 diver's watch fans, and we also have the same problem - the bezels of our watches come off easily with the use of just our fingernails. Changing the O-ring would tighten the rotational movement of the bezel, but it would still pop-off easily without the use of a bezel knife.

The reason the bezel pops off easily is because the underside circumference of the bezel (where the notches for the click ball are located) has become bigger by perhaps a fraction of a millimeter probably due to the repeated prying off and snapping back of the bezel onto the case. Because of this looseness, the bezel no longer seats snugly under the narrow lip machined into the case that is supposed to hold it firmly in place.

My friend and I have been thinking of a solution to this problem until one day my friend suggested using a hose clamp (those typical, replacement band-type ones used for car radiator hoses) to shrink the underside circumference of the bezel. The idea struck me as very simple and yet sensible, so as soon as I got home from work that day, I took a hold of a spare replacement radiator hose clamp for my car and a screwdriver.

Summarized below in five simple steps is the procedure I performed in restoring my bezel:

First, I took out the bezel from my watch and, using one hand, positioned the bezel inside the hose clamp, the circumference of which was initially a bit large. (Taking the insert out of the bezel was not necessary.)

Second, with the other hand, I turned the hose clamp's tightening screw/bolt with a screwdriver to decrease the clamp's circumference to a size small enough so that the bezel wouldn't slip out of the hose clamp. The hose clamp has notches along the band onto which the tightening bolt's thread grips to produce the tightening or loosening action as the bolt is turned. By looking through those notches, I adjusted the bezel's position to make sure it was perfectly centered throughout the inside of the band of the hose clamp.

Third, holding the clamp steady with one hand, I then slowly and very carefully tightened the clamp. In order not to apply too much turning force or torque, I used a chubby screw driver. (A wrench would be a bad idea because it will apply excessive torque.) Once I felt the hose clamp tighten hard and solid around the bezel and noticed that tightening it any further required a lot more effort, I stopped turning the bolt.

Fourth, I loosened the tightening bolt of the hose clamp to release the bezel. The bezel still looked very much the same, like nothing happened.

Fifth and final step, I snapped the bezel back onto the watch. I was totally surprised and happy to see that the bezel had indeed tightened! It wouldn't come off easily anymore with just my fingernails. I would definitely need a bezel knife to pry it off. It also rotated snugly, producing a crisp, clicking sound as it turned - - - just like it was new again.

Next day in the office, my friend and I did the same procedure on his bezel and we came up with exactly the same results - a tight, like-new bezel.

I am sharing this technique with you guys who have the same problem. If you decide to try this solution, just remember to be very careful in tightening the hose clamp. Do not over-tighten. Otherwise, you might end up crushing your bezel. Also make sure the bezel is not askew but rather centered perfectly inside the band of the hose clamp. Otherwise, you might end up with distorted or out of true bezel.

If this technique works for you, please post your replies or comments because I will be glad to know about them.

(I apologize for the messed up posting above. Must have been some technical glitch. This is how it was originally supposed to look like.)


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