# Homemade "Cloud Dome"



## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

Some pro-am photogs on another forum recommended a "cloud dome" for photographing watches in sunlight ... looking online, the referenced product looks like a semi-opaque plastic salad bowl with a hole in the top for the camera lens. US$65 or more for these!! (Okay, some come with some hardware to "mount" your camera on it.)

It occurs to me that I should be able to make one from a folded cone of translucent paper or vellum ... or cut a hole in a plastic bowl ... maybe a cheap lamp shade.... Has anyone actually done this?


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## BlueKnight (Oct 29, 2009)

Hi Dave!

I've used the lampshade idea in some of my pics in the past. Works great. You just have to explain to your SO " where you're going with that...?"


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## Kutusov (Apr 19, 2010)

David Spalding said:


> Some pro-am photogs on another forum recommended a "cloud dome" for photographing watches in sunlight ...


But doesn't that beats its purpose? I mean, you'll end up with a kind of effect that you can get from indirect sunlight... it just sorts out the shades and reflections from the sun light by shading the object from directly exposure...


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## Stan (Aug 7, 2003)

That would be a make shift light tent I suppose?


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## William_Wilson (May 21, 2007)

Stan said:


> That would be a make shift light tent I suppose?


If it threads on to the lens with an adapter, I guess it would be a diffuser to go.

Later,

William


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## Stan (Aug 7, 2003)

William_Wilson said:


> Stan said:
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> > That would be a make shift light tent I suppose?
> ...


If the lens has threads.


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

Actually yes, the "Cloud Dome" product is pretty opaque white plastic, which I think would degrade the light. I started looking at needlepoint cloth, fine texture, open weave, which ought to let light in but minimize harsh reflections off the crystal and case of watches. Brain is still chewing over the ways to assemble one....


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## Retronaut (Jun 14, 2010)

Didn't I see someone recommend using a white carrier bag before - el cheapo light tent?


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

:think:

And it occurred to me while walking through the arts & crafts shop Sunday, a radio engineer I know made "popper stoppers" for the studios out of small hoops (for needlepoint?) with pantyhose doubled-up in them. A larger one would make a good scrim for block reflections on crystals and diffusing the light. I just ordered a cheap 5-in-1 reflector screen (includes translucent, black, white, silver, gold screens) for $11, we'll see how well that works. About as cheap as a homegrown solution.

I still have my eye out for a translucent plastic salad bowl to make my own "cloud dome."


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## William_Wilson (May 21, 2007)

Stan said:


> William_Wilson said:
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> 
> > Stan said:
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Yes of course, everything I have has threaded lenses. I forgot about the smaller P&S types that retract. 

Thinking about it now, it wouldn't be too difficult to attach a bracket to the bowl and mount a small camera with the tripod thread.

Later,

William


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## Stan (Aug 7, 2003)

William_Wilson said:


> Stan said:
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> > William_Wilson said:
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Mechanically that would work William, but a better optical solution would be to mount the â€œfilterâ€ as close to the objective lens as possible.

Blue-Tac and a cut down resin filter, once the P&S is booted up would produce better results, imo.

Youâ€™ve got me thinking about photography again William, Iâ€™m not sure I like that.:lol:

But, we are both problem solvers at heart, I do like that.:wink1:

Nice to talk to you, as always.


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## William_Wilson (May 21, 2007)

When I was looking for a light tent/diffuser/etc. , it became apparent going with my instincts would end up costing as much as a Moon Watch. Therefore, I went the other direction and did the cheapest and quickest thing I could think of, a transparent plastic storage bin. I cut a section out of the side, sanded on the inside and outside with fine grit paper. It sits on a cheap adjustable folding table. I use pieces of printer paper if I need to reduce light levels or block an overly harsh source. Bristol board makes a good backgroun if needed. It works fairly well with all light sources, when used with a tripod and remote. I just need to use it more often. :wink2:




























Later,

William


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

Ah yes, that's what I started thinking of. Lot's of those kind of plastic storage bins down here, too. I'm a big Rubbermaid fan, btw, but boy that might've a chore to cut. I've got Roughneck tubs that I bought 20 years ago, still holding up. Built tough.


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## DMP (Jun 6, 2008)

William_Wilson said:


> When I was looking for a light tent/diffuser/etc. , it became apparent going with my instincts would end up costing as much as a Moon Watch. Therefore, I went the other direction and did the cheapest and quickest thing I could think of, a transparent plastic storage bin. I cut a section out of the side, sanded on the inside and outside with fine grit paper. It sits on a cheap adjustable folding table. I use pieces of printer paper if I need to reduce light levels or block an overly harsh source. Bristol board makes a good backgroun if needed. It works fairly well with all light sources, when used with a tripod and remote. I just need to use it more often. :wink2:
> 
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> ...


From one Sony believer to another - nice gear you've got there Mr W!

:cheers:

Dave


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## William_Wilson (May 21, 2007)

David Spalding said:


> Ah yes, that's what I started thinking of. Lot's of those kind of plastic storage bins down here, too. I'm a big Rubbermaid fan, btw, but boy that might've a chore to cut. I've got Roughneck tubs that I bought 20 years ago, still holding up. Built tough.


It was quite easy. I used a hacksaw on the lip edge and cut the flat area with sturdy scissors. It was less than 5 minutes to cut and around 15 or 20 to sand with a sanding block. 

Later,

William


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## William_Wilson (May 21, 2007)

DMP said:


> From one Sony believer to another - nice gear you've got there Mr W!
> 
> :cheers:
> 
> Dave


I have quite a bit of Minolta film gear, so the move to Sony digital made sense. With the full frame model, I get the benefit of all of my old lenses. That Sony flash has proven to be a lot more versatile than the older Minolta flashes were. 

Later,

William


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## William_Wilson (May 21, 2007)

I gave the Cloud Dome idea some thought. I looked in our recycle bin and retrieved a 4l ice cream tub. The tub conveniently had a circle molded into the bottom that was about a 1/4 inch greater in diameter than my macro lens. I cut the circle out and had a new diffuser. This tub is translucent and needed no further modification. I mount the camera on the tripod and tip it down 90 degrees and wind the elevation to frame the subject.










Here is a picture taken at night, under a white ceiling with fluorescent light fixture and bounce flash.










It needs the light coverage balanced out a bit, but not too bad for a tub that took a couple of minutes to cut a hole in.

Here is a section cropped from that same series of shots.










Here is a shot take during the day, in a room with a 6 1/2 foot tall window running the length of the roomm. Bounce flash as well, off of a white ceiling.










I just need to set the flash to manual mode and do a bit of fine tuning. 

Later,

William


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## Kutusov (Apr 19, 2010)

Looking good! I would try it without the flash though... a couple of spot lights directly on the top side of the tub might just get you the right light balance.


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## Kutusov (Apr 19, 2010)

Just found this set up...










Seems like easy to make and to store away by folding it a bit. The results seem good to me!

http://forums.watchuseek.com/f71/marina-militare-roling-radiomir-292-ceramic-black-seal-homage-205059-post1462160.html


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## dapper (Jun 18, 2004)

Wilkinson translucent waste bins are pretty good for daylight or artificial.

And only 70p


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## Barryboy (Mar 21, 2006)

I'm pretty sure I saw somrthing very similar somewhere made from an Ikea waste bin. The photographer had a piece of black cloth on the table and a black cloth background - he said that the only problem was white balance. I remember thinking the results were stunning, and thought to mysel;f "Well if i shoot in RAW I can manipulate the WB afterwards - How hard can it be?" but just like the fellas on Top Gear whenever I think that I end up with a disaster on my hands so I haven't bothered. But the theory still seems sound to me....

Rob


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