# A French Favourite: Michel Herbelin



## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

I don't believe I have yet written a forum topic on a French watch company and it is quite refreshing to do so now. The subject of this topic came to me when after rummaging through a 50P box at a boot sale, I came across a sad-looking Michel Herbelin watch which I felt needed to be rescued. This square gold-plated gents number with traditional white face and black hands, was probably made during the early 1980s. The strap was a gonner and some of the gold plating on the case is no more. I took the back off, noticing the manufacturer's lack of water-resistance proofing, and inside found a small ETA quartz movement. I have to say that the watch isn't particularly impressive, especially given the nature of Michel Herbelin's mission statement and Michel Herbelin watch prices, and my negative conclusions match those on a forum when a gold-plated vintage Michel Herbelin mechanical lady's watch was posted and discussed. So, not a very good start then, but please read on as all is not lost.

There is no indication that Michel Herbelin himself was a watchmaker; nevertheless, he was deeply interested in watches and a passionate believer in high quality watchmaking. Thus, In reaction against the new mass-production techniques that were set to undermine traditional watchmaking, Herbelin launched his own company, in 1947, with the hope of being able to match the quality and reliability of watches made by the finest firms in the business but at a mid-market price level, as well as produce styles that were elegant and well-designed. To this end, Michel Herbelin chose to launch his company in Charquement, France, in the heart of the Jura mountains, an important historical centre of French clockmaking and not far from the Swiss border, and he decided to keep it small while forming close collaborations with suppliers and specialist laboratories in the region.

The result of Michel Herbelin's business model was a limited but growing success for his company and its reputation for technical sophistication in its watches, especially in France where a sense of national pride has always seemed to influence people's purchases. This success was particularly notable after 1965, in which year the company introduced its stylised "M" logo and started to become a well-known brand. Michel Herbelin, with the help of his son, jean-Claude, who joined the company in 1972, steered Michel Herbelin watches into the quartz era, using the new quartz technology to produce innovative watches of interesting design such as extra slim examples and the wire bangle watches that became associated with the Herbelin name. Michel Herbelin then retired, leaving Jean-Claude Herbelin to head the company, and since he took over, the brand has continued to prosper and base itself on creativity and attention to detail, with a new emphasis on worldwide sales.

Michel Herbelin mechanical automatic J-Class chronograph introduced in 2003, with 40mm case and Swiss ETA movement (pic from timezone.com):










Today, Jean-Claude Herbelin and his brother, Pierre-Michel, run the company, and there are also a third generation of Herbilin family members now in the business. In fact, Michel Herbelin, "Montre de Luxe Francais" is one of the few truly independent watch companies left in existence - quite an achievement, especially since the company has also managed to attain a presence in world markets. Over 150,000 watches a year are produced, and they are sold in 50 countries worldwide. Michel Herbelin first launched itself into the UK market in 1993, and the firm sells its products through some 350 leading indpendent jewellers in the UK and Republic of Ireland. Michel herbelin also maintains a permanent company presence in the UK, which looks after repairs and after-sales service, marketing and distribution, and Michel Herbelin UK is based on the outskirts of Epping Forest, in Essex.

All Michel Herbelin watches are designed and manufactured in France, in the company's own workshops, using Swiss movements, and apparently, all models start out individually, as drawings on paper, then going through a proper design process including approval by Jean-Claude Herbelin himself. Thus, one company motto of "Swiss Heart, French Soul" is probably quite appropriate.

The Michel Herbelin collection of watches can be divided into three main categories - Sport, Classic and Boutique watches - and within each category there are distinctive "families". The flagship family is to be found within the Sports category, and these watches are entitled "NEWPORT" with the name taken from the America's Cup and the yacht race to Newport, Rhode Island. All Newport watches are water rresistant to 5 Atm. and are fitted with sapphire crystal glasses.

The Classic category includes the KHARGA family, with their rectangular faces and elegant lines, as well as the AMBASSADOR range. As for the Boutique watches, these are essentially a combination of jewellery and wristwatch, and range from elegant bangle watches to delicate bracelet models and watches with colourful straps. The main ranges within the Boutique group are named ANTARES, LUNA and SALAMBO.

Michel Herbelin ladies' bangle watch, model 7002, with Swiss quartz movement and sapphire crystal watch glass (pic from bidorbuy.co.za):









In general Michel Herbelin watches, including the more generic men's and women's category, are priced between £250 and £1000, and they are guaranteed for two years. The company will gift wrap a new watch and include a personalised message free of charge for the customer, and will also resize any bracelet. Michel Herbelin also sells quality leather watch straps. I should just say here that Michel Herbelin still produces a number of mechanical automatic watches in addition to quartz powered examples, and these include top-end Herbelin Newport chronograph models.

At the start of this topic, I mentioned my observation that a couple of old Herbelin watches I have come across - myself and in the literature - do not appear to be of particularly good quality. I also said, read on, as all is not lost. And indeed, it would seem that Michel Herbelin watches have decidedly improved in terms of quality and reliability with some of the recent models being pretty good. In terms of ruggedness and reliability, those flagship Herbelin watches designed to take some stick, seem to be as good as their prices would indicate. For example, on the Herbelin blog page, we have an interesting article by John Peck, where he put his Herbelin watch to the extremes and it came through succesfully. At the end of the topic, it is stated that "John wears a Michel Herbelin Divers watch, with date function and luminous hour markers and hands. It is water resistant to 200 metres, but in his experience it [will] also withstands dramatic changes in air pressure and the odd knock from falling rocks!"

In terms of reviews, I would suggest that the still limited penetration of Michel Herbelin watches in this country and the States does tend to limit how much is said about the current collection. However, the "Michel herbelin anyone?" thread on Watcuseek, started on 3 July 2011, bears out my own positive feelings about the more recent and top of the range Michel Herbelin watches. For example, the model 7750 chrono is stated as being very well finished, and another member recorded that the finish on the Herbelin watch he saw was also really good. Finally, a couple of members who purchased Michel Herebelin watches seem pleased with their purchases, and on 11 July 2011, 6grand posted about his purchase of the Michel Herbelin Newport Trophy Grandsport. Interestingly, he lists the criteria he expected his watch to fulfil, and the Herbelin watch came up to these expectations, with one exception - the price. And here, I must agree with various forum posts that criticise the rather high price of Herbelin watches. I suppose that, to some extent, you are paying a premium for a watch that comes from an independent watch company that is smaller and more distinctive than a major brand might be. Nevertheless, it has to be said that skywatch on Watchuseek is probably correct when he says that "With Herbelin charging 300+ Euro for a quartz, I can think of many other interesting options. You can always return to Herbelin later if their watches are still calling to you - they won't go away." And here, ultimately, is the trade-off involved in buying a Michel Herbelin watch. Yes, they are expensive, but they also have heritage and history behind them, and as skywatch concludes, Michel Herbelin is probably, and hopefully, one of those classic watch companies that will survive into the future.

Michel Herbelin Newport Yacht Club quartz chrono watch with solid steel 42mm diameter case: ref. 36695/BN14, from 2013 Basleworld blog.michelherbelin.co.uk:


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