# Omega F300 - Questions



## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

I'm fairly new to the forum and a beginner at watches so please be patient.

I recently put up questions about my Raymond Weil watch which has big chunks missing from the case (in the Watch Discussion Forum). This time I thought I would show you the watch I used before that. I bought it in 1971 and used it for 10 years. After that it sat in a drawer until a few days ago.










Q1. My first question is about the battery. The battery that was in it was an RW56. I found this was the same as a 343, a mercury battery of 1.35 volts, no longer available. Using the list here I bought (from RLT Watches) a 344, which is the right size but is higher voltage, 1.55 volts. I went ahead and risked it and the old watch sprang to life and seems fine. Is it OK to run it on this battery?

Now take a look at this detail of the front and the back.



















Q2. My next question is about what it is made of. From the information I got back from my previous posting, I deduce that this is gold plate, since I can't see a hallmark anywhere. But oddly it looks more like a steel case with gold stuck onto it? And if you look at the detail of the front, at about the 2 o'clock position there is a dent which I would have expected to knock plating right off. Is there some other way of doing gold where a thicker layer is attached in some way to a steel backing?

Q3. When did the f300's start and end? I had thought they started in the 1970's but I now understand they were even back in the 1950's?

This watch has been very hard to photograph as it has so many reflective surfaces. And with direct light the hands make distinct shadows. In the end I got a little white tent from eBay and bounced several flashes around inside it, to give a really even white light.

Q4. I'm using this watch again since my Rado is away for repairs yet again. I have no desire to sell it. Is it absolutely forbidden here to enquire if this watch has any value other than as a curiosity? If it is forbidden, please ignore. If it is hugely valuable (not likely) please tell me!


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

Growltiger said:


> Q1. My first question is about the battery. The battery that was in it was an RW56. I found this was the same as a 343, a mercury battery of 1.35 volts, no longer available. Using the list here I bought (from RLT Watches) a 344, which is the right size but is higher voltage, 1.55 volts. I went ahead and risked it and the old watch sprang to life and seems fine. Is it OK to run it on this battery?


344 is fine (and correct).



Growltiger said:


> Q2. My next question is about what it is made of. From the information I got back from my previous posting, I deduce that this is gold plate, since I can't see a hallmark anywhere. But oddly it looks more like a steel case with gold stuck onto it? And if you look at the detail of the front, at about the 2 o'clock position there is a dent which I would have expected to knock plating right off. Is there some other way of doing gold where a thicker layer is attached in some way to a steel backing?


Gold capped stainless steel...much thicker than gold plate. Several manufacturers used this process: Omega, Wittnauer.



Growltiger said:


> Q3. When did the f300's start and end? I had thought they started in the 1970's but I now understand they were even back in the 1950's?


No, not the ESA 9162 (F300)...this appeared in 1969 and was over by 1976



Growltiger said:


> Q4. I'm using this watch again since my Rado is away for repairs yet again. I have no desire to sell it. Is it absolutely forbidden here to enquire if this watch has any value other than as a curiosity? If it is forbidden, please ignore. If it is hugely valuable (not likely) please tell me!


I'm ignoring this one


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## Steve's Dad (Dec 19, 2007)

Hi Growltiger,

I am no expert but I would value the watch at about Â£200.

I think it is a great thing that you are the original owner, you should look after it and treat it to a service (IMHO).

Ian


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## Philz (Oct 20, 2009)

Growltiger thanks for sharing your watch with us. The value is in the enjoyment you get from wearing a great classic watch.


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## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

Thanks for your comments. I'm enjoying wearing it. In a way I'm glad it is worth Â£200 and not Â£2000 as I'm not tempted to sell it.

Taking those close-up photos shows up the imperfections (scratches and scuffs) on the crystal.

When one says crystal, what are they actually made of? Glass or plastic?

I've seen references to polishing them. Is that something I could do myself? What materials are needed and where could I buy them?

(I've had previous experience of polishing silver using an electric drill with white pads attached, and jeweller's rouge - a very messy business.)


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## gaz64 (May 5, 2009)

It's probably worth less in today's market than a steel version as some don't like gold or gold cap. I've got a daydate version.

Polywatch is the stuff to polish the crystal


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## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

gaz64 said:


> It's probably worth less in today's market than a steel version as some don't like gold or gold cap. I've got a daydate version.
> 
> Polywatch is the stuff to polish the crystal


Thanks - I've ordered some Polywatch.


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## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

One more question please. I want to get a new strap for it. I have measured the gap between the lugs accurately using a digital caliper, and it is 19.1mm. (The ancient probably shrunken strap on it measures 18.7mm.)

But straps (on the RLT Watches shop anyway)come in 18mm or 20mm. I think 18mm will leave quite a gap, but could 20mm be squeezed in? Or are there 19mm straps?


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## jasonm (Nov 22, 2003)

There really arnt that many 19mm straps out there, watchbandcenter.de has some, Google will find others, but you can either squeeze on a 20mm or have a 18mm with a gap, most people fit the 20mm.....

Polywatch will only work if your watch has a plastic (acrylic) crystal....


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## Who. Me? (Jan 12, 2007)

Growltiger said:


> One more question please. I want to get a new strap for it. I have measured the gap between the lugs accurately using a digital caliper, and it is 19.1mm. (The ancient probably shrunken strap on it measures 18.7mm.)
> 
> But straps (on the RLT Watches shop anyway)come in 18mm or 20mm. I think 18mm will leave quite a gap, but could 20mm be squeezed in? Or are there 19mm straps?


Hirsch and Hadley Roma both make very good quality 19mm straps. Most of mine are on Hadley Roma sports straps, and RLT sells a nice padded waterproof leather strap in 19mm that goes well with my Seamaster f300.


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

Lovely watch, I concur, treat it to a servicing, there are one or two members here who can do it I believe.

There have been one or two of these changing hands from time to time, you can search prior threads in the sales corner to see what members have asked for similar f300s. Don't take those as reliable valuation, just a ballpark idea of what collectors ask and give for these in a community like this forum. (How's that for a disclaimer?)


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## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

I got a new 19mm strap, and I got Polywatch and polished the crystal, and have been enjoying wearing it.

Sadly after it reached the 6th, it failed to click over to the 7th. I can manually set any date, and when I wind the hands forward it usually clicks to the next day. But when it is the 6th it doesn't. I have not tested it for all the dates, it may go wrong on other dates as well.

Thinking back 20+ years it may have had this fault when I stopped using it.

I see from messages above that you recommend servicing.

Would a servicing fix it do you think?

Please can you recommend a good person to service/repair it?

What would it cost?


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

Growltiger said:


> Sadly after it reached the 6th, it failed to click over to the 7th. I can manually set any date, and when I wind the hands forward it usually clicks to the next day. But when it is the 6th it doesn't. I have not tested it for all the dates, it may go wrong on other dates as well.


Very common problem with the ESA 9162 movement. At least one of the calendar wheel plastic teeth is chipped / broken; the plastic wheel will need to be replaced.


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## seadog1408 (Feb 12, 2007)

Growltiger said:


> Please can you recommend a good person to service/repair it?
> 
> What would it cost?


just pm paul (silverhawk) or go to his website www.electric-watches.co.uk and email him

he is the leccy master.

cheers

mike


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## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

seadog1408 said:


> Growltiger said:
> 
> 
> > Please can you recommend a good person to service/repair it?
> ...


Thanks. I've emailed him.


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## tissotman (Nov 28, 2010)

Growltiger said:


> I'm fairly new to the forum and a beginner at watches so please be patient.
> 
> I recently put up questions about my Raymond Weil watch which has big chunks missing from the case (in the Watch Discussion Forum). This time I thought I would show you the watch I used before that. I bought it in 1971 and used it for 10 years. After that it sat in a drawer until a few days ago.
> 
> ...


a very nice watch !


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## Growltiger (Nov 14, 2010)

seadog1408 said:


> Growltiger said:
> 
> 
> > Please can you recommend a good person to service/repair it?
> ...


I have just got my watch back from Paul (Silver Hawk).

It has been serviced, has a new crown and new date wheel, so everything is now working perfectly. It is even back before Christmas.

So I am very happy.


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