# Seiko 7t32-7f70



## peadee (Jun 2, 2009)

Hello all,

Please find below a couple of images of my watch. It's a Seiko Cronograph 7T32-7F70. The letters AO are also on the back, these are inscribed within a square. They may be A and then Zero as opposed to the letters A and O. I have had this watch for some years now but I haven't worn it for about the last 3 years. The reason for this is simple. The bracelet bars broke with alarming regularity and the batteries didn't last either. This wasn't the case with the original bars or battery, they seemed to last for quite some time. Once they failed and I had them replaced, I had problems. So my point is this. Are the replacements inferior and if so, where do I get superior replacements and can I change the batteries myself? If I can do the batteries myself, which tools do I need and where do I buy them? I love this watch and would dearly like to wear it again so, all of your help and advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Peadee


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## mattbeef (Jul 17, 2008)

All you will need is a basic watch tool kit. I got one from eBay for about Â£15 but the quality isnt the best.

Unless you plan on doing a few more in the future take it to somewhere like The Watch Hospital and get them to stick a battery in it, least that way you know its going to be a good battery that they put in there and tell them that you dont want the cheapest spring bars they have


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## Odo (Mar 22, 2009)

Hi Peadee, I was in a similar situation to yourself last week. My son had an old Ben Sherman branded watch that my dad gave him for school. The battery died a few months ago and we never got round to taking to town to have a new one put in.

I was in Maplins yesterday and saw a watch back removing tool for Â£6.99, kind of spanner shaped with three prongs on the end. Bought it, removed the back from the watch, put in a new battery this mornng and is now working again. Battery was Â£3 so I figure if it only lasts a year it was no trouble to do, much cheaper than taking it to a jewellers so I don't mind how long it lasts.

The only thing is water resistance, obviously I screwed the case back on firmly, but I wouldn't like to say how water proof it is now.

As for spring bars, as you've seen, plenty of advice here from the good folk on this forum already!

Hope my rambling helped


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Odo said:


> As for spring bars, as you've seen, plenty of advice here from the good folk on this forum already!


Apart from what I wrote in the other thread:



SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Try replacing the weedy standard fitment 20mm x >1.5mm spring bars with something _slightly_ thicker.
> 
> I've just replaced those in my 7T32-7F80 with a pair of 1.6mm. Surprising the difference it's made, already.
> 
> ...


Make sure that when you purchase your replacement spring bars, that this time you specify high quality stainless steel -

not the cheaper nickel-coated brass ones (which have probably been the cause of the multiple failures you've experienced).

If you're going to retain the original bracelet, probably the thickest ones you can fit (if such a size exists) is 1.7mm diameter.

But, if you're going to use some other strap / bracelet - there's nothing stopping you using 1.8mm or possibly even thicker.


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## vamos666 (May 20, 2009)

I've got the same watch and had to squeeze in the catch thingies (sorry correct terminology escapes me!) in the lugs, together a little as they had worked open over the years and put a lot of stress on the bars (which kept breaking!) No trouble since then.


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## vamos666 (May 20, 2009)

These bits!:


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

vamos666 said:


> I've got the same watch and had to squeeze in the catch thingies (sorry correct terminology escapes me!) in the lugs, together a little as they had worked open over the years and put a lot of stress on the bars (which kept breaking!) No trouble since then.


I call them bracelet end pieces or lug end covers. 



SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Step 2. Just raided the other (_slot car chassis building materials_) bits box. Found some 1.6mm i.d. thinwall Brass tubing.
> 
> Now, where's that Dremel Moto-Tool ? Cut-off wheels. Soldering iron. Rattling bracelet end pieces soon gonna be fixed. :yes:


That little 'fix' to stop them rattling, by which I thought I was going to achieve my aim, yesterday, didn't work. :angry:

It was fine in theory - but after I'd spent quite some time cutting and machining the brass spacers to the correct lengths ....

Then found it was bl**dy impossible to refit the spring bars into the lugs, with them in place !! Good job I didn't solder them !

Much easier 'quick and dirty' solution. Found an old biro refill. Cut a couple of short lengths of the neoprene tube off and used that to sleeve the loops inside the bracelet end covers - instead of my 'precision fit brass spacers'. Result - total silence !!


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## vamos666 (May 20, 2009)

I know its a bit of a bodge but have you tried cutting small pieces of a cotton bud stalk (Q-tip!) about 0.5mm long and using these on the ends of the bars? I've done it once with a cheapo but you may want a more hardy and classy solution for your nice watches!

ETA; just read your edit! Great minds an' all!


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

vamos666 said:


> I've got the same watch and had to squeeze in the catch thingies (sorry correct terminology escapes me!) in the lugs, together a little as *they had worked open over the years and put a lot of stress on the bars (which kept breaking!)*


You've got that bit slightly wrong by the way. 

The bracelet end piece covers are 'designed' to float (that's why they rattle after a while) on the outer parts of the spring bar.

They don't actually impose *any* loads on the spring bars.

The reason that the spring bars do fail regularly (and one of mine was pretty badly bent in the middle), is simply bad design.

The way the bracelet is affixed (as standard) is just using the central 10mm wide loops at each end of the bracelet. You could (to see what I mean) try fitting the bracelet without the end cover pieces in place. All these covers effectively do is stop that 10mm centre link from sliding from side to side (along the 20mm long spring bar).

My original idea (of soldering brass spacers inside the end cover loops) would possibly have added some strength (and precision) to the method of attachment. Unfortunately, it _nearly_ made it impossible to re-fit the bracelet between the lug ends. It's obvious to me that Seiko chose to do it, the way they did, for ease of assembly on the production lines - not longevity.


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## vamos666 (May 20, 2009)

I get what you're saying but when i say 'worked open' i mean splayed wide apart! This was causing the strap ends to slide along the bar ( as you described) and actually bend one end of the bar so it became more likely to pop out. I just thought that Peadee may have had a similar prob. and tbh, i was desperate to contribute!


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

vamos666 said:


> These bits!:


Here's the same end pieces (just showing one end of the same bracelet) on my watch.



SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> I purchased a second-hand 7T32-*7F80*.
> 
> It's *very* similar to your watch, but has an external (fixed) Tachymeter bezel, instead of the 60 minute 'Divers' bezel.












Apologies for the cr*ppy photo - it's one that the eBay seller who I bought it from emailed me.









Notice the same poor sloppy fit of the end piece covers. This watch was in almost 'as new' condition when I bought it.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

vamos666 said:


> and tbh, i was desperate to contribute!


Understood.  and :thumbsup:

Now where was I ? :huh:

Ah, Yes .... Back to my 7A38's - and the days when Seiko made decent quality Quartz Analogue chrono's !! :wub:


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## peadee (Jun 2, 2009)

Thanks folks for all the advice.

I did suspect that it was a case of poor design on Seiko's part. Not to worry, I will get myself a bucket load of the spring bars. After all, it's no hardship changing them. The more worrying thing for me is, if I buy the tools and change the battery, will it still be waterproof and, if not, what do I need to do to make it so? I suspect there will be gaskets/rubber rings to replace. Are these readily available (can I buy a kit?) and while I'm at it, is a replacement glass available cos this one is scratched. And is it a job for the amateur?

Peadee


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## vamos666 (May 20, 2009)

peadee said:


> Thanks folks for all the advice.
> 
> I did suspect that it was a case of poor design on Seiko's part. Not to worry, I will get myself a bucket load of the spring bars. After all, it's no hardship changing them. The more worrying thing for me is, if I buy the tools and change the battery, will it still be waterproof and, if not, what do I need to do to make it so? I suspect there will be gaskets/rubber rings to replace. Are these readily available (can I buy a kit?) and while I'm at it, is a replacement glass available cos this one is scratched. And is it a job for the amateur?
> 
> Peadee


you can get basic tools from ****-bay and as much as it pains me to say it, they are quite well made!. As for waterproofing and pressure testing, i 'spose that's a job for the big boys! Glass replacement seems to be very much trial and error, if you can afford it IME! Although i would say: steam in and learn!


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Much easier 'quick and dirty' solution. Found an old biro refill. Cut a couple of short lengths of the neoprene tube off and used that to sleeve the loops inside the bracelet end covers - instead of my 'precision fit brass spacers'. Result - total silence !!


Edit / Postscript to this 'temporary fix'. I subsequently replaced the short lengths of biro refill tube with 1.6mm (shrunken ID) Heat Shrinkable Tubing - (along both the full exposed lengths of the spring bars). Proper job - no more rattles or slop. :thumbsup:

Yay !! 300 posts !!  Better slow down .... I want to stay a '15 Jewel' - like the Seiko 7A38's.


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