# Omega Ploprof: Mr. Nalu/colin...assistance Please?



## eieio (Jul 29, 2006)

New watch forum partcipant here! Read the posts here re: real vs fake Ploprofs.

Mr. Nalu/Colin, for whatever reason, even though i'm "approved and registered" properly here on the RLT Watch Forums, it will not let me email or private message, so i have to ask questions here this way. Maybe you won't mind emailing me directly? The posts on this topic by Mr. Nalu/Colin and others have been very helpful for me. thank you!

There is the issue of the date wheel being made SPECIFICALLY for the Ploprof or an Omega date wheel for other Omega watches. the issue, as i understand it, is that there are 31 days to the month, that being an odd number, there's not way to CENTER the date in the date window at BOTH the 3 and the 9 o'clock positions. Apparently, as i understand it, one can either have a date wheel that centers at 3 or at 9, but not both. so if you do NOT have a date wheel specifically made for the Ploprof at hand, and you have to change the date wheel, then you put in the general Omega date wheel and put the crown o the right side. should you be lucky enough to have a date wheel that is specially made for the Ploprof, then you can properly put the crown on the left.

i also can't tell if the circular brushed grain on the case is proper or not from photography. i have the possibility to purchase one but i cannot tell from the photography.

the bracelet on the watch is a 3 link bracelet, not the mesh. you indicated on one of your posts that that is one of the signs of a fake Ploprof. i have seen official Omega published photographs with the Ploprof on the 3 link bracelet, so the "mesh bracelet test" is one test, but not a conclusive one, as you have already carefully pointed out.

i'm still a bit lost as to how to tell definitively. your comment about the C vs U of the crown indentation is a GREAT point.

thank you so much.

might you be able to email me directly so i can respond via private email?

thanks in advance.


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## JoT (Aug 12, 2003)

You need 50 posts before the PM and EMail work.

I am sure Colin will be along at some point.


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## Nalu (Nov 28, 2003)

I'll send a response to what I assume is your email also (not sent to my RLT account for those worried about a security leak







), but I'll answer your questions here to the best of my ability in case they might help someone else down the road.

I don't know about there being two versions of the date wheel. I did have a reversed Ploprof (i.e. set up to be worn on the right wrist with the crown on the right. When I sent that watch in to Swiss Time Services for a checkup, it was returned to me set up 'normally' - with the crown on the left for wear on the left wrist. As far as I know, the date wheel was not changed by STS and it has always lined up, regardless of how tha watch was set up.

Case finish varies widely. Brushed is correct, how it is brushed depends on who refinished it the last time. PloProfs are tool watches and used extensively by professional divers. As such, parts were replaced, cases refinished and bracelets changed all the time. The fact that the case has no engraving and no SN makes it difficult to tell what is original and what is correct for the watch. For example, I just bought a _polished_ SM120C from and estate sale







Note that Omega can and will tell you the history of the movement in your watch by using it's serial number. The 1002 was used in watches other than the PloProf and some have been transplanted into PloProfs to revive them.

Omega otherwise aren't very helpful unfortunately. I can say that the PloProfs I've seen out of Bienne for the complete spa work have had circular polishing on the top surface.

As far as bracelets go, if it has an Omega stamp, part number and is 24mm, I'd say it's real. If the case cannot fit an Omega 24mm mesh (which is probably ~24.5mm since it's a tight fit on a genuine case), then I'd be suspicious of the case.

WRT the crown recess: There _were_ some early Ploprof cases with a very slight c-front. I think these cases were what the fakes were modeled after. Most PloProfs (including all 3 of mine) have the u-front (all have a c-back). I've never handled a c-front case, so I don't have any photos and can't speak with authority. To make matters worse, photos taken at just the right angle can make a u-front look like a c-front. It's hard to explain in words. I'm trying to take demonstrative photos, but without a real or fake c-front to compare to, it's difficult.

Photos of any suspected fake would help a lot. The biggest tell-tale is the bezel insert. If the minute pips are not evenly spaced, it's a fake. If the numbers crowd the minute pips, it's a fake.


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## JonW (Mar 23, 2005)

As Colin says these are hard watches to authenitcate and youre doing the right thing by being cautious and asking questions before buying. Ive been looking at these for some time now (perhaops too long as theyve jumped in price in the time ive been looking







) and have struggled to find the 'one'.

Colin - Id be grateful for the C & U info in picture form when you manage that.

eieio - The graining on the case and the datewheel really seem to be the least of the worries - Id be more concerned that the case was fake. The 1002 movement in the PP was available in a number of watches - I have it in my Seamaster 120m which is worth 1/10th of the PPs price - and I expect the fakes use the correct movt in a remanufactured case, as they do with the SM300.

The bracelet comment in the fakes thread was really a theory that most fakers wouldnt stump up the US$300-400 required to buy a genuine Omega mesh or Confam strap but might well find the lesser money required to buy the genuine standard bracelet - therefore you could be more certain the watch was genuine if it had the expensive optional bracelet/straps etc. Yes thats not full proof but if you are checking the checkboxes its a mark in its favour - its also worth rememebering that a watch with mesh or confram is worth more when selling.

My view when looking at these is that its a sizeable outlay and as such I would need to be certain its what I want and that I know its genuine. If I had any doubts I would walk away... these are not so rare as it seems at first and there is bound to be another one along in time. Of course also if the watch is a bargain price and seems genuine you could be getting a great buy (or perhaps its too good to be true?) and you will kick yourself for being too cautious, but imho Id rather be safe that sorry.........

Any pics are always worth seeing of a PP so please do post these so we can see if its real or not.


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