# Union Glashutte Watches (The Current Range)



## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

Here we are again, on the second part of my in-depth look at Union Glashutte. Your tea will be cold from yesterday, so get another cup and settle in. This time, I shall take a look at the current crop of Union watches, with particular focus on two ranges, but first, I must reinforce my apology (also posted yesterday in a reply to the first part of my Union article) to durch Johannes Durrstein, who I wrongly named "Johanne" without the "s" on the end of his name.

So here we go with part 2.

Taking an overview of the newer Union Glashutte watches, we see that Swatch has lent these their own take on Johannes Durrstein's own philosophy, and I quote from the Swatch Group literature here:

"Right from the start, when Johannes Durrstein founded the brand in Glashutte in 1893, his aim was to make Glashutte-quality watches at a reasonable price. His motto "Watches should have everything needed to make them accurate and beautiful but nothing that makes them expensive" was the basic idea when this traditional German watch brand was founded and has remained so ever since. This pioneering spirit characterizes the Union Glashutte brand and its products even today."

In actual fact, what Swatch does not say, and yet has always been the case with Union Glashutte watches, even now, is that alongside the more basic models, the company has a tradition of making a small number of horologically complex and costly models, some of them using expensive materials such as gold. I shall examine one of these more complex models later.

The Union Glashutte collection comprises four product lines for men (Belisar, 1893, Averin and Viro), two lines for women (Seris and Sirona), as well as a line of classic models under the name Noramis, which come in both men's and ladies' watches. In fact, I would suggest that the Noramis range of models is the most important selection of Union Glashutte watches, taking us into the territory of Durrstein's own thinking about the creation and sale of new watches. I will therefore start with the Noramis watches, the first of which was issued in 2009.

In examining a 2010 Watchuseek thread about Union Glashutte, we find the inevitable remarks about Union now being part of the Swatch Group, and this thread shows, on the one hand, that some collectors have turned away from Union since the Swatch takeover, but on the other hand, it also gives opinion that at its best, Union Glashutte is up there with Longines and Omega in terms of quality. In addition to general opinions, we have a picture of, and recommendation for, the Union Noramis - showing the most basic model - a plain two-handed dress watch powered by a U2892 movement (i.e. an ETA 2892 with a Union rotor design). At first, I thought the design of this watch was perhaps a bit uninspiring, but I have grown to like it more having seen better pictures of it. However, I still prefer the Noramis Power Reserve variation shown on the back cover of the 2012 Mercedes magazine. In this variety, the plain dial is enlivened by the addition of a power reserve subdial, a small date window and an elegant sweep hand. With this particular timepiece, I would agree (to the extent that any hyperbole can be really true) with the sentiments expressed by Union that "the lightly-retro, forthright style of your Noramis Power Reserve from Union Glashutte makes checking the time a truly timeless experience." Mind you, it had better be, since the watch costs about Â£1,200:










(picture from cdn.chrono24.com)

I would say that the Noramis Power Reserve shown above is my favourite model in the Noramis range but they are all pretty nice, from the most basic two-hand model to the Noramis two-subdial chronograph with sweep and date window. This last model will set you back about Â£1,765. Of course, for a whacking great premium, Noramis watches are available in rose gold with a silver face. The Noramis women's watches are similar to the men's but come with a 34 mm diameter case instead of a 40 mm case . And of course, there is some variety available in face colour - with black dials being available.

In considering Durrstein's more ambitious ideas, which involved horological complexity in a certain number of his watches, one can see these today in the sharply square-edged Averin Chronograph. I should just mention that not all Averin watches are chronos, though they all have square cases. Fortunately, Ariel Adams on the AskMen website gave this watch a close look and he describes it as having "a mix of reliable looks and intricate features that come together in a mature-looking timepiece instrument." I myself have to disagree with these words, but more about that after I have just described some of this chronograph's technicalities. The Averin chrono is apparently the first timepiece to use the "quirky" Valjoux 7751 movement in a manner whereby a three-pronged hand and a three-row date indicator help balance out the dial layout. The watch includes the time, annual calendar (with the date), date and month, a moon phase indicator, a synchronised 24-hour hand, and a 12-hour chronograph. The sides are 42.55 mm, and the hands are thick and easy to read on this asymmetrical and crowded dial. Water resistance is 100 metres and the double AR coated sapphire glass is glare-free and durable. The watch will set you back about Â£2,500.

Clearly, I did not examine the watch myself and produce the above technical details - that was down to Ariel Adams. However, what I will say is that this may be a fine timepiece in horological terms, but Adams' conclusion that this is a "classic" watch is badly mistaken. Indeed, the statement by Ariel Adams towards the end of his review that Union Glashutte designed this chronograph to "pair suitably with a suit or sandals in design and function" sent me running - AWAY. If Swatch had anything to do with the design of this watch then I regret the takeover. Anyway, here it is in all its "glory":










(picture from luxusuhr24.de)

This picture shows the most basic of the colour-ways available. There are many different colour combinations of the watch available, including part-black part-silver, all black dial with silver coloured case, all black with yellow sweep hand and subdial hands or red sweep and subdial hands, and a version with a black bezel case. I am not sure which of these variations I prefer, but I certainly think the all silver example is overcomplicated and not as easy to use as Ariel Adams suggests. If you are looking for a Union chronograph but in a more conventional three-subdial format, then you need the Belisar range, which features many such watches, or some of the Viro watches. The 1893 range of watches deliberately old-fashioned in design, while for me, the Viro range is boring and some of the plain and simple Viro models look - well - cheap, and I certainly wouldn't want to pay the Â£667 asked on an Amazon UK ad for the simplest of this range of watches.

Picture of a Union Glashutte Belisar three-subdial chronograph:

(picture from Wolkim.de)










With Union Glashutte, I find it hard to make any firm conclusions as to their watches. I am sure they are fine pieces and work well but I get the sneaky feeling that I could do better for less, especially in terms of design. There are a few Union Glashutte watches that I really do like, but even I have a some concern that they have lost part of their national identity and individuality by and large, and have moved too far towards a more global consensus in design. And even when they do try and pull out the stops, as with the Averin, the results are not a pretty sight. As far as Union Glashutte engineering is concerned, it seems that Swatch has managed to infiltrate its ETA movements into the collection, but I am not an expert on technical details relating to modern mechanical movements, so I will leave that to others more knowledgeable than myself to comment on more fully.


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## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

A "proper" Glashutte!



Mike


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## ProperTidy (Mar 10, 2014)

Wearing a 'proper glashutte' (gub) today as it happens


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## Wolf (Apr 4, 2013)

So... What do you make of 'em Honour... I'm a fan... They do a couple of watches that I'd love to own!


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## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

Glashutte watches don't need to be too expensive





and these are Original Glashutte, not Glashutte Original. The quality isn't as high as the new swatch ones though


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## AVO (Nov 18, 2012)

Now this...I like!


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## Jeremy Fisher (Jan 28, 2012)

It might be worth mentioning that the "Glashutte" branding is protected under laws similar to those in Switzerland. 50% or more of the value of the movement & watch must come from the village/town of Glashutte for the brand to carry it.

Swatch uses the old GUB factory in Glashutte. At least some of the movement are in house (or unique to Union) and Swatch also owns (the more expensive) Glashutte Original brand.


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## Always"watching" (Sep 21, 2013)

Dear Jeremy, you obviously didn't read the first part of my Union Glashutte topic which is a company history, and it makes it quite clear that both Union Glashutte and Glashutte Original are part of the Swatch Empire. Thanks though for the interesting information about the brand protection question.

Dear Wolf, I am not very keen on the Union Glashutte watches made under the Swatch regime and I would not purchase one - although I do like the Noramis Power Reserve model I illustrate in my topic with the power reserve subdial. However, I would certainly like to own a Union Glashutte watch made prior to the takeover by Swatch, and these can be found pre-owned for a lot less than a new Swatch-Group Union watch. As you can see, a number of members have sensibly added examples of these to their collections.

Talking of Swatch, I was chatting to a watch dealer who sells high-end brands and he has now stopped selling any watch brands that are part of the Swatch Group. Not only does he disapprove of the aggressive manner in which Swatch has swallowed up and "globalised" many brands that had their own heritage, but he dislikes the way that the Swatch Group treats its retailers and customers.


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## DJH584 (Apr 10, 2013)

> Talking of Swatch, I was chatting to a watch dealer who sells high-end brands and he has now stopped selling any watch brands that are part of the Swatch Group. Not only does he disapprove of the aggressive manner in which Swatch has swallowed up and "globalised" many brands that had their own heritage, but he dislikes the way that the Swatch Group treats its retailers and customers.


Interesting. I wonder how many other retailers feel the same way.

David


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## Guest (May 3, 2014)

> Talking of Swatch, I was chatting to a watch dealer who sells high-end brands and he has now stopped selling any watch brands that are part of the Swatch Group. Not only does he disapprove of the aggressive manner in which Swatch has swallowed up and "globalised" many brands that had their own heritage, but he dislikes the way that the Swatch Group treats its retailers and customers.


That's a lot of watch brands he is taking off his shop window! Thing is many of those brands would have disappeared anyway and Swatch are not exactly the only company who have bought up a struggling watch company. How many watch brands out there are completely independent, in house and owned by the original family/owners. Not many.

Also the customer and retailer thing, what have they done to their customers and at least with a Swatch brand you can haggle for a discount might be a bit more difficult with a Rolex AD.


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## artistmike (May 13, 2006)

> Talking of Swatch, I was chatting to a watch dealer who sells high-end brands and he has now stopped selling any watch brands that are part of the Swatch Group. Not only does he disapprove of the aggressive manner in which Swatch has swallowed up and "globalised" many brands that had their own heritage, but he dislikes the way that the Swatch Group treats its retailers and customers.


You'll find a lot of upset watch dealers these days and they will give you all sorts of reasons trying to justify why they aren't stocking high end Swatch brands these days. The truth of the matter why thy aren't selling them though could in fact though be slightly different to what they are telling their customers....

There has been a big movement by the Group to sell their higher end brands, like Omega through their own 'Boutique' and select ADs in their bid to continually move the brand forward and upward, emulating the way that Rolex and other manufacturers of that ilk manage their sales and marketing and do business. In order to control that marketing they have pulled the brands away from many of the traditional outlets that consisted of small one-man bands or even small chains which has given them far better control over image, pricing etc. Many jewellers and retailers that had been selling them for years were unable to conform to the stricter standards that the group wanted for the brand in terms of marketing and didn't have the turnover in their shop needed to justify any improvements, so lost the important Swatch Group franchise and of course many were livid at losing the ability to sell quality products and having to go down the cheaper brand route where you have to sell a lot more watches to make a living !

Some quite big groups of stores too lost their franchise and there has been a massive shake up in the market as a result..... As you found out when talking to the your 'Jeweller' about the 'cheaper watch movements being given to online shops' some retailers will say any old rubbish to try and get a sale and put you off buying elsewhere, so it's important to check the facts and not rely on one disgruntled retailer to form the basis of 'research' .....


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## wotsch (Jan 5, 2011)

Hi Always"watching",

you've done some good research for your two posts on Union and put your information into a well-structured, very readable summary. Thank you for the time and effort you are clearly putting in to this forum!

Have a look at the threads I linked to in my comment to your other Union post. They contain some links to further information on GlashÃ¼tte watches and movements that might interest you.

One thing I'm missing in your articles is your sources. I'm very interested in the history of GlashÃ¼tte watch-making and would like to read further. Could you please post some links to your material.

As you are contributing a lot to the forum, it would be really great if you could link to your sources in your posts and give your readers the opportunity to go deeper for themselves if interested. You are pulling together a lot of information and, as well as acknowledging your sources, adding links would make your posts a good starting point for someone else interested in one of the topics.

Keep up with the good work!

-wotsch


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## Rolandski (Feb 5, 2013)

Another interesting and informative post 'Always', do keep them coming


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## Caller. (Dec 8, 2013)

artistmike said:


> There has been a big movement by the Group to sell their higher end brands, like Omega through their own 'Boutique' and select ADs in their bid to continually move the brand forward and upward, emulating the way that Rolex and other manufacturers of that ilk manage their sales and marketing and do business.


I think that's right. When I was up in Edinburgh a week or so ago, I was surprised that Neither Fraser Hart or Ernest Jones, which basically face each other, sold Omega, as both are authorised AD's, although it was nice to see Zenith, Ball, Bell and Ross and other's.

Surprised that is, until I went around the corner to Laing's, who have two separate shops a few shop's apart. In one, all the watches are upstairs and its a little piece of watch heaven up there, with some premium brands, but the other store has essentially become an Omega boutique, with two thirds of the store dedicated to the brand, the other 3rd being split between Chopard (very nice) and Longines.

And I guess that FH & EJ just can't compete with that, coupled with the fact that Hamilton and Inches (swoon) is nearby as well and also sells Omega.

Likewise in Kingston, in Surrey, there are two Ernest Jones and a large Fraser Hart. One Ernest Jones has a good range of watches, including premium brands, but the other store is essentially a 'boutique' for Omega and Breitling - turn right as you enter and you have Omega, on the left is Breitling.


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## kettle13 (Sep 7, 2012)




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