# Seiko 7A38-7280 Quartz Chronograph



## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

Just got this from the car boot but the chronograph isn't working. time is fine, date appears ok (will be able to tell tomorrow!) but the two dials at 3 and 9, and the centre 'seconds' hand do not reset.

Being quartz I suspect I will either have to live with it, or replace the lot. Anyone know any better? I'm kinda hoping for a reset button that will make all well again!


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## vamos666 (May 20, 2009)

Very nice find :thumbsup:

SeikoFan will be along to help shortly i'm sure!


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## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

You need to visit the Seiko site for the instructions (if Seiko Fan isn't around). The individual dials can be reset by hitting the buttons in the correct order. I've slept since I read them and can't just remember the exact sequence!!! I'll have a quick search for the info.

Here you go:-

http://www.triadot.com/watch/InstructionsSeiko7A38.pdf

Mike


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## bry1975 (Feb 6, 2004)

You probably pull the crown to the hand winding position and press the pusher buttons one at a time this should enable you to reset the subdial hands.

They're cracking watches well engineered so don't chuck her! :lol:

Regs

Bry


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## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

thanks for the responses.

Following Mikes excellent handbook link (ty) I can reset the counter at 9 o'clock using the pusher at 10, but the pushers at 2 and 4 aren't doing anything and they don't feel as positive as the pusher at 10 so I am begining to suspect something wrong with the actual way the buttons are making contact. Does this sound familar to anyone?

having nor thought about it i have blown up the photos that reveal the problem - this is button at 10 which is good










these are the buttons at 2 & 4 - they don't look connected!










PS beginning to argee with Bry - these really are a cracking watch to wear and I love day/date watches anyway. I'm thinking of it as a 'council' version of a Zenith El Primero!


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## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

Looking at the rustmarks around the pushers, the watch could do with a clean and a service (goes without saying really!). The pusher should be moving and making the contact to function.

Mike


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

Looks from your pic like there's been water intrusion. :lookaround: I've seen 1 or 2 Seikos with clear residue of a soaking on Fleabay recently.

Regardless, the movement needs examination by a tech, and the inside and dial probably need a tender cleaning. You might need new pushers, seals, or who knows what else. Hope you didn't pay a princely sum for this. Yes they look grand, but it's painful to see one that's been abused.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

vamos666 said:


> SeikoFan will be along to help shortly I'm sure!


Apologies for the late reply - I was out most of yesterday, and almost missed this thread altogether. :blush:



tixntox said:


> *Looking at the rustmarks around the pushers*, the watch could do with a clean and a service ....





David Spalding said:


> Looks from your pic like there's been water intrusion. :lookaround:


Iâ€™d be very much inclined to agree with what Mike and David have written previously ....

In fact, the discoloration of the sub-dials on your watch's face would appear to confirm that.

If not water intrusion, then possibly the damage has been done by acid fumes leaking from an old run-down battery.

Iâ€™ve seen a few worse-looking examples of this particular 7A38-7280 discoloration on eBay over the last year or so:




























This example was originally sold on the RLT sales forum back in March 2009, before finding itâ€™s way onto eBay:


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

In original pristine condition, the 710L 'white' dial on a 7A38-7280 (or 7A38-7190 or 7A38-7289) ....

Should look like this (this example's actually the virtually identical 7A38-7289 US version):










The sub-dials should be the same silvery-pearly white colour as the main dial, with painted silver rings.

Though these are sometimes hard to capture in photos, particularly if taken from a sideways-on angle.









I failed spectacularly here myself :blush: - this watch DOES have the silver-painted rings, completely intact !










This is my third 7A38-7280. Was quite cheap on eBay. See: http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=54831&view=findpost&p=558919

Although many RLT forumers tend to bad-mouth eBay, you can pick up some nice examples on there quite cheaply.

See: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130413437736 (*$38.00 AU* - minor chrono' fault - though possibly an easy fix)

and: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150464359196 (Reasonable price for average - not excellent example)

and: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150459259298 (*$69.99* for an almost 'Minter', but on a short bracelet).


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

scottswatches said:


> Just got this from the car boot but the chronograph isn't working. time is fine, date appears ok (will be able to tell tomorrow!) but the two dials at 3 and 9, and the centre 'seconds' hand do not reset.
> 
> Being quartz I suspect I will either have to live with it, or replace the lot. Anyone know any better? I'm kinda hoping for a reset button that will make all well again!


Sorry for rambling on a little - you'll have to make allowances my enthusiasm. 



scottswatches said:


> .... I can reset the counter at 9 o'clock using the pusher at 10, but the pushers at 2 and 4 aren't doing anything and *they don't feel as positive as the pusher at 10 so I am begining to suspect something wrong with the actual way the buttons are making contact.* Does this sound familar to anyone?


Getting back to your watch .... er, Yes. Very familiar. :smartass:

If after attempting to reset the hands, per Mike's instructions, you're still having problems ....

First of all pop out the movement (crown stem / release lever is all that holds it in) ....

Then remove clean / de-rust / add silicon grease and replace the three pusher buttons.

Watch out for flying miniature circlips !! 

While the movement is out, have a look at the exposed ends of the actuator levers that the pushers act on.

If your watch has suffered water ingress (or battery acid damage), it's possible that one or more of ....

.... these actuator levers has become rusted to the base-plate, and partially siezed.

So you can press the pushers until you're blue in the face, but nothing happens at the stepper motor end ! :angry:

See photo below:










The actuator levers I am referring to are nearest to 3 of the 4 nylon vice posts.

In fact, this example looks O.K. - it's rust is concentrated around the crown shaft.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Before you delve too deeply into the inner workings of your 7A38, you might want to take a look at this:

http://www.seikodigitalwatches.com/7XXX/7A38A.pdf

It's an abridged version of the Seiko technical manual. Some handy exploded diagrams on the last few pages.

Quite simple and straight-forward to work on .... it's 'only' quartz, after all. :tongue2:


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Oh, and while you've got the movement out, you might want to replace that scratched crystal.

A well-written handy step-by-step guide here: http://www.crescent-pc.com/watchfetish/7aX8/index.htm


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## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Before you delve too deeply into the inner workings of your 7A38, you might want to take a look at this:
> 
> http://www.seikodigitalwatches.com/7XXX/7A38A.pdf
> 
> ...


Many thanks Seikofan - you have helped no end. I'll get the spanners out later when i get home and see if those levers are seized. The watch only cost Â£10, so i can't do too much damage! If you see a bracelet and case for sale in the sales forum it means i got it terribly wrong!!!


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## bry1975 (Feb 6, 2004)

If you need spare circlips have got LOTS here can send a dozen if needed :lol:


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

bry1975 said:


> If you need spare circlips have got LOTS here can send a dozen if needed :lol:


Non-Seiko replacements for errant miniature circlips can easily (and cheaply) be purchased from Cousins UK.

See an earlier thread in this section: http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=51988


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## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

UNBELIEVABLE -

having tried to repair the chronograph, i lost the gear for the date quickset and when i rebuilt the watch it had stopped running. I put this down to my work, and put it back in the drawer.

I thought i would have another bash, having designated this watch to an experimental piece (next job polishing the crystal when i can find some 1200 grade wet 'n' dry). Restripped it, rebuilt it and still not working. Then i swapped the battery and away it went!

The watch was working before i started, so the battery must have failed the minute it was taken out of the watch! Chronograph is still kaput (LOT of rust on the pushers) and now the date won't quickset but it now wearable and i am a happy chappy!


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## bry1975 (Feb 6, 2004)

Sounds like you're slowly getting their Scott imo with practice you should be able to get the datewheels working practice on a scrapper like a 6309 which will probably have a similar datewheel set up.

If you get round to removing the pushers I have stacks of pusher circlips suitable for the job.

Regs

Bry


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

scottswatches said:


> (next job polishing the crystal when i can find some 1200 grade wet 'n' dry).


Scott.

Don't waste your time. Buy yourself a crystal press off eBay - should cost you less than 20 Quid ....

.... and *replace* the crystal. You'll have a helluva job polishing scratches out of a Seiko Hardlex. :sweatdrop:



SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Oh, and while you've got the movement out, you might want to replace that scratched crystal.
> 
> A well-written handy step-by-step guide here: http://www.crescent-pc.com/watchfetish/7aX8/index.htm


Cheapest (non Seiko) mineral glass 31.0mm Ã˜ x 1.5mm replacement crystal is Cousins p/n F150CMH310 ....

But personally I'd use a Sternkreuz p/n MSM310, with one of Sternkreuz's p/n IG318310H *white* crystal gaskets.


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## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

BALLS - the watch has stopped again!

Forgot about the hardlex - i'll have to practice on something else

Bry - thanks for the offer - one of the circlips is missing on this already but this watch is now consigned to the spares drawer


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## bry1975 (Feb 6, 2004)

Yup don't bother with glass polishing not when glasses can be had so cheaply.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Getting back to your watch .... er, Yes. Very familiar. :smartass:
> 
> While the movement is out, have a look at the exposed ends of the actuator levers that the pushers act on.
> 
> ...


I've just had to do another one of these myself. 

Not a 7A38-7280, but a 7A38-7270, which I bought off eBay in July. It came in a job lot of 3 Seikos 'for spares or repair':










The relevant part of the seller's description read as follows:



> *ON OFFER ARE 3 MENS WATCHES by SEIKO FOR PARTS OR RESTORATION???..*
> 
> *
> *
> ...


I should have known better.  But never being able to resist the Lure of the Bay .... :naughty:

The 7A38-7270 was in a reasonably nice cosmetic condition, externally.

First thing I did was to strip it and give case and bracelet a good clean, and replace the scratched crystal.

From the fresh gouge marks on the case-back, the seller had obviously had it off before, themselves ....

Because, surprise, surprise, an old run-down battery had been left in it too long, and had leaked slightly. :angry:

I cleaned up the battery recess and terminals, fitted a new Maxell #394, and it sprang back into life immediately.

.... Or at least the Time did. The chrono function wouldn't start (using the 2 o'clock pusher). :thumbsdown:

But it all worked fine on the self-test (holding the 4 o'clock pusher in for 2 seconds) .... which was encouraging.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> SEIKO7A38Fan said:
> 
> 
> > If your watch has suffered water ingress (or battery acid damage), it's possible that one or more of ....
> ...


In fact, although I had cleaned, greased and replaced the pushers ....

The 2 o'clock pusher had that strange 'spongy' feeling - like it wasn't actually doing anything. And it wasn't. 

I already knew exactly what the problem was, having looked at the end of the relevant actuator lever.

I'd seen the usual tell-tale traces of rust, and so I'd put the watch to one side, to be sorted later. :hammer:

You'll have to excuse me, because I'm not very good at taking 'Before' or 'W.I.P.' photos. :blush:

But I did remember to grab my camera, and take this photo, (by flash







so it's not the best):










When I first stripped it down, the actuator lever at 2 o'clock was firmly rusted in place - and pressed in.

At this stage, I'd released it and was starting to clean up the area around it using WD40 on a cotton bud.

The 4 o'clock actuator lever was nearly as bad, and that is shown here removed from the back-plate.

You can see from the anti-magnetic plate the route the leakage took - anti-clockwise from the battery well.


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

scottswatches said:


> UNBELIEVABLE - Having tried to repair the chronograph, *I lost the gear for the date quickset* ....


And this is the very reason I thought I ought to update this thread. :dontgetit: I owe you a small apology, Scott.









Notice anything in my photo above ? Like a missing gear wheel. :blush:

When I simply wrote this:



SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Before you delve too deeply into the inner workings of your 7A38, you might want to take a look at this:
> 
> http://www.seikodigitalwatches.com/7XXX/7A38A.pdf
> 
> ...


.... I should have added a couple of salutary warnings.









1) Before you take off the green plastic '710' spacer â€" be sure to carefully remove, and stow, the Rotary Step Switch.

(That's the tiny little gold-plated rotor you use to adjust the 0.26 second / day increments).

2) Once you've removed the green plastic '710' spacer, and if you've also not replaced the crown stem ....

*Be careful* not to lose the small date correction / quickset gear wheel, because that's all that locates it !!

Mine dropped out while I was cleaning that movement up yesterday evening. I did see it fall out.









But then I was distracted for an hour or two. Guess who then re-assembled the watch without it. 

There is actually a reference to replacing this wheel in the 7A38A Technical Manual â€" top of page 7.

Seiko refer to it as '1st calender correction transmit wheel' (65):










Mine's now safely back in place â€" and *all* the watchâ€™s functions are working again. :sweatdrop:


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## Chromejob (Jul 28, 2006)

You, sir, are one of the reasons this forum is fun to come back to regularly. REALLY detailed, fascinating explorations of various watch designs, by someone with true passion (and a little insanity, erm, eccentricity).


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

David Spalding said:


> You, sir, are one of the reasons this forum is fun to come back to regularly. REALLY detailed, fascinating explorations of various watch designs, by someone with true passion (and a little insanity, erm, eccentricity).


Cheers, David. :hi:

Not sure about the 'insanity, erm eccentricity' bit though.


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## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

I remember the first time I stripped a car gearbox (without a manual in true "man" fashion!) and detent springs flew in all directions! We learn by our mistakes and I think that we learn the lesson better that way. Seiko fan is a true master on the 7A38's as stated above and we Seiko fans will sure owe him a lot of thanks for his knowledge and willingness to share it with us. :notworthy:

Good luck with the rebuilds.

Mike


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## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

scottswatches said:


> Just got this from the car boot ....


Tidy little profit, there Scott. :thumbsup:

See: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120626358330



> *SEIKO 7A38-7280 rare quartz chronograph for repair 1988*
> 
> It was working when I bought it, but it stopped and it isn't working any more ....


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## scottswatches (Sep 22, 2009)

yep, very happy with that! the money has already been spent towards servicing two watches


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