# Seiko 7005 8160 Back To Life



## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

At the last Clock & Watch fair at the National Motorcycle Museum I picked up an old Seiko automatic from one of those baskets of dead watches - kind of like how jumble sales used to be. An horologists pick-n-mix.

I paid Â£20 for it, which sounds expensive, but the watch was in really superb condition for its age (born in April 1972) - an almost unmarked case, a slightly scratched crystal and a bracelet in equally good condition and most importantly it fitted my wrist.

I couldn't resist, even though so far I haven't worked on an automatic movement.



at the same time I bought a couple of watches to use for parts (not knowing what was wrong this was also a leap of faith). I couldn't find another 7005 based watch, but on another stall I did find copious amounts of 7009 based watches (all head only), and the very helpful chap on the stall suggested that these might be similar / compatible with the 7005.

So, I came back with a project that's been sitting in the to-do box for a few months, waiting for the right moment.

We're having a very quiet Christmas this year and this means plenty of time :yes:

Time to play 

The case back of the 7005 came off easily to reveal this:



first impressions? - its nice and clean, and shiny!!

The rotor turned easily and when I gave the escape wheel a nudge with a cocktail stick it oscillated nicely. Hmmm - I wonder whats wrong?

(I suspect those familiar with repairs may already have spotted the fault ....)

A closer inspection (with a loupe) revealed this:



the hairspring has become detached from the balance cock.

OK, now we know what's wrong. Can we fix it?


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

The first thing I did was some research :yes: :yes:

Thankfully, not only are the Seiko Technical Guides available for the 7005 and 7009 movements, but there are also some incredibly helpful guides.

These are three that I used:






a great video on how to strip the movement down.

And then these:

http://www.pmwf.com/...iber%207005.htm

http://www.clockmake...6/chapter1.html

(the last is actually for the Seiko 7S26 movement, but it contains some invaluable tips - particularly how to fit the balance cock / escape wheel).

I'm not going to write-up every step, but just those that are relevant.

Here's the movement out of the case, with the rotor removed:



and here is the second reduction wheel removed:



(we'll come back to this later on .......)


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

Here's the movement a bit further into the strip down:



it was great to see how clean it was, and also the quality of the components.

Here is the escape wheel:



it was at this point I realised that the hairspring had snapped, and not simply become detached as I'd first hoped.

I removed it from the balance cock:



and then set about finding a replacement.


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

From one of the write-ups I'd been studying, I knew that the Seiko part number for the escape wheel was

*310 020*

I assumed that I'd find one on ebay, but a few searches didn't turn any up. Hmmmmmmm.

Then I thought I'd try Cousins, and rather to my surprise it appears they have them in stock, for just Â£10.09.

So, one got added to my basket.

At this point I thought I'd strip down one of the 7009 movements.



you can see the rust and debris. Also interesting to note that the third and forth wheels are not brass in the 7009.

Then (of course!!) I had the thought that maybe I could use the escape wheel from the 7009 in my 7005 .......

Here it is:



I did think about moving only the escape wheel, but in the end I decided that it was far too fiddly (undoing the index and stud) and might end up with me damaging the hairspring.

So, I went for a full transplant.

Getting this back in correctly was quite tricky. Luckily the guide by Nicholas Hacko included some great tips on how to do this, specifically where to position the pallet fork:



and how to present the escape wheel to it.

I have to say that it is tricky, and must have taken me about 30 mins to finally get it seated in the bearing and correctly in the pallet fork.

Phew.


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

So, with a new escape wheel, it was time to put the remaining parts of the movement back together and see if it worked.

Everything was going really well, right up to the last but one step.

When I came to re-fit the second reduction wheel, the screw wouldn't screw down. Hmmmmmmmm.

Looking at it revealed why:



the screw (on the right) that I'd removed had been sheared off. 

That explains the 'crack' I felt when I removed it - I'd assumed it was just locked tight.

Looking back at the guides (including Seikos) explains why - this is a left hand thread. Doh!!!!!!

Here is the barrel and train-wheel bridge with the screw in.



now at this point I assumed that it would be impossible to get the screw out, but seeing as I was on a roll with things (broken screw aside), I would use the bridge from the 7009.

Because there was rust on the second reduction wheel and the pawl (magic) lever, I had to swap these over from the 7005.



This was easy, and having done this I completed the rebuild.


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

Then the moment of truth.

I wound the mainspring (by hand), and gently nudged the escape wheel with a cocktail stick. And ........



we have life 

Then I turned the movement over, and loosely re-fitted a second hand:



and



I left the movement for about 20 mins, having started a stopwatch timer on my Casio Gulfman.

When I can back to check it, it was:

a - still running

b - bang on with timing

:yahoo:


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

Time to polish the crystal (with polywatch).



and then to re-fit the hands.



then the movement back into the case.



and the polished crystal.


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

And now for some wrist shots:









I think this watch must have died very early in its life and then been put away in a draw.

Somehow it found its way to the stall holder, and then to me.

And now, this watch that is 41 years old lives again (albeit not 100% original).


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## jmm1 (Aug 18, 2009)

I have never read a full post before until now. That was very interesting and informative with some fantastic pictures. I only wish I was that good with my hands, but unfortunately I have sausage fingers and would find it far too difficult.

The end result is absolutly gorge.


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## greasemonk (Oct 4, 2012)

than you for a most enjoyable post,i have made various attempts at watch repairs but as with the previous poster, its beyond my dexsterity.very interesting to read about it though ..cheers..greasemonk


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## dobra (Aug 20, 2009)

Well done with the strip down and solutions to finally get it working. Love the sequential photographs.

Mike


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## Davey P (Sep 9, 2010)

Excellent stuff mate, and very impressive skills - Definitely one to be proud of, and the end result looks great :thumbup:


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

Thanks for all the kind words guys. :thumbup:

I went back to the sheared off screw in the train-wheel bridge yesterday, and realised that it was easy to get the broken part out, just by using a pin to turn the broken off shaft.

So, now I have the original 7005 bridge:



and here is the broken screw:



The watch has been running since yesterday morning and looks to be keeping very good time (considering what its been through!!).

I think I will swap the bridge back in and at the same time oil the watch and then time and regulate it.

I'm really pleased with this job - I've been wanting for ages to work on a mechanical (rather than quartz) watch and to have a success first time out is a real result.

Here is my third automatic movement - a 7009.





the dial was a mess and it was sold as a non-runner.

I'll take a look inside and see if anything obvious stands out.

If I can get it running I'll look for a watch with a good dial, hands and case to swap this into (maybe at the next fair).


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## DJH584 (Apr 10, 2013)

Great piece of restorative work sir - well done on bringing it back to life.

Looks like you did some work on the hands as well?

David


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

DJH584 said:


> ...
> 
> Looks like you did some work on the hands as well?
> 
> David


I cleaned them (with rodico) but that was all. Luckily there was no pitting to the surface and the lume is in great condition.


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## DJH584 (Apr 10, 2013)

Sir Alan said:


> I cleaned them (with rodico) but that was all. Luckily there was no pitting to the surface and the lume is in great condition.


I did wonder when I looked at the first picture and the finished product. I wasn't certain if pixilation was making me see something different.

So I 'll definitely amend my first statement - Excellent piece of work.

Will it be worth your while changing over the bridges? Or will you do it for the sake of authenticity?

David


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

I'll swap the bridge back in because I feel bad that I broke the screw and in my haste to see the watch working I opted for what I thought was an easy fix.

And, as you say I'd like the watch to be as original as possible because it deserves it given how clean it is.


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## T6KFR (Dec 14, 2013)

Fascinating write up and very well detailed.


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## Muddy D (Nov 16, 2013)

I really enjoyed your post. It was great to see the watch both working and looking so great when you had finished with it. Smashing job, an inspiration.


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

Having recently bought a timegrapher, I have been slowly working my way through my automatics, regulating them and where necessary servicing them (hence slowly ..).

Yesterday and today I have been working on this watch, which is almost exactly a year since I got it working!!

When I put it on the timegrapher, this is what I got:





which whilst very pretty (its kind of snowing), isn't actually very good at all.

I guess I was a tad optimistic with my hand timing when I first got it going. :yahoo:

The watch was 'running' about as badly as a watch can run.

Hmmm.

I stripped it down fully and this time oiled it correctly using the correct amounts and types of oil, then set about adjusting it.

After about 4 hours of work, this is what I've got:



which is much more respectable.

I shall be wearing it all day.


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## Service Engineer (Dec 28, 2007)

*I love reading these step-by-step repairs. Well done that man. I salute you.*


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## no8yogi (Oct 1, 2012)

Great work sir! Impressive stuff, when my kids reach the age where they stop grabbing at stuff I will restart tinkering for now I'll just enjoy your threads!


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## Rampant (Nov 27, 2012)

Exceptional work. Well done.


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## Thomasr (Oct 11, 2011)

looking better, the amplitude is still a little low tho, when was the mainspring last changed?


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## Sir Alan (Sep 10, 2010)

I have no idea :shocking:

Probably still got the original one. Are new ones available?


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## Thomasr (Oct 11, 2011)

^yh, cousins will sell them


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## Service Engineer (Dec 28, 2007)

Beautiful job, as always.

Regards,

Chris


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