# Seiko Kinetic repair - Viability?



## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

I have a Seiko Kinetic SQ100 5m22 from the early '90s. It stopped working about 10 years ago, due to probably being not worn for some time and the capacitor problem.

I'm thinking of having it repaired or doing it myself, and I'd like some pointers.

For clarity, it is one of these.

https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQoyebakUUx6tPV-LD4NehLyY_S9udF7RbDFH31k_58q0zzImTE

It will need a new capacitor, new seals, a new glass and on the face, just to the right of the date, it looks like there is a bit of something, but I believe it could be where the luminous paint has bubbled up a bit.

Even if it were just, capacitor, seals, glass, it would be with delivery to a Seiko repair shop, £97 plus £22 (doesn't work at all) and glass £15 plus £7 to get it there. And that is if it doesn't need a repair to the face. They retailed new for £250 in the early '90s and sometimes they would be £225.

It has sentimental value, but it seems like I might be throwing a lot of money at a watch that is too far gone. Perhaps I would be better cutting my losses and chucking it and investing in a new watch.


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## Guest (Dec 13, 2015)

if you are seeing bubbling on the dial, the cell has probably leaked, if it has it will no doubt cost more than the watch is worth to repair, your first task is to remove the case back to check if the cell has in fact leaked.. hope that helps :yes:

P.S if it is knackered stick it on eBay for spares...with FULL disclosure


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

Thanks.

Recommendations for an inexpensive tool to remove the back?

PS If it is knackered, it's going in the bin, I've had my fill of ebay over the years and won't put anything for sale on there.


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## Guest (Dec 13, 2015)

Road_Hog said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Recommendations for an inexpensive tool to remove the back?
> 
> PS If it is knackered, it's going in the bin, I've had my fill of ebay over the years and won't put anything for sale on there.


 sorry but check ebay for tool or amazon, get a cheapo as you may not use it again

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-Watch-Back-Case-Opener-Screw-Wrench-Repair-Tool-Kit-Cover-Remover-/390745731872?hash=item5afa42b320:g:x00AAOSw5ZBWKdv~

or

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B016OI4QQA?keywords=watch%20case%20back%20remover&qid=1449973048&ref_=sr_1_26&sr=8-26


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

Thanks.

Ordered the one from Amazon, the grip looked slightly tidier than the ebay one and I also I have a bunch of run of the mill brand new watches that need replacement batteries (ex-corporate gifts).

I will take some photos when I take it apart, just so people can see what it looks like. I hate people that come on and ask for help and then disappear without telling the ending.


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## DJH584 (Apr 10, 2013)

I also have a 5M22 AGS which was given to me as it wasn't working and the opinion was that the battery/capacitor was up the creek. I had a search around the net and found a video on YouTube which showed how to replace one on this link 



 - but please take note of the comments below the video made by other viewers. Replacement appeared to be well within my capabilities. I then searched the bay for a replacement and found that this seller - elisabeth9679 - had them in stock and ordered one. Including P&P it cost me just under £16.00. This is the link to the 5M22 products that she sells. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=elisabeth9679&_sop=12&_osacat=0&_ipg=50&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X5M22.TRS0&_nkw=5M22&_sacat=0and I notice that the price has come down a couple of quid.

Having followed the video, I successfully replaced the battery and the watch fired straight up and has been keeping accurate time ever since.

One word of advice, use your existing battery bridge plate when putting the watch back together. I found that the screw holes on the one supplied in the kit did not line up properly with my watch, so I used my existing one. Also you will need to use some form of magnification as the three bridge plate retaining screws are EXTREMELY tiny. And as a lot of us know, due to experience, the smaller the screw, the more prone they are to pinging off into the ether never to be found again :laugh:

HTH

David

PS. If you do decide to bin it, let me know and I'll take it off your hands - if nothing else it will be handy for spares.


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

DJH584 said:


> Well, the thing to undo the back arrived from Amazon today. And it is a chocolate teapot as far as trying to undo the back of the watch.


 Thanks.

Ordered the one from Amazon, the grip looked slightly tidier than the ebay one and I also I have a bunch of run of the mill brand new watches that need replacement batteries (ex-corporate gifts).

I will take some photos when I take it apart, just so people can see what it looks like. I hate people that come on and ask for help and then disappear without telling the ending.


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

That last reply didn't format right.

Anyway, tool to undo the watch turned up today, but quite frankly it is as useful as a 20mm spanner on a 12mm bolt.


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## Guest (Dec 17, 2015)

Road_Hog said:


> That last reply didn't format right.
> 
> Anyway, tool to undo the watch turned up today, but quite frankly it is as useful as a 20mm spanner on a 12mm bolt.


 i assume the case back is very tight?


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## Davey P (Sep 9, 2010)

You might have been better spending a couple of quid more and getting something like this:

Watch tools kit

The quality should be more than good enough for occasional usage, and I think the case back opener is worth the money on it's own :thumbsup:


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## Guest (Dec 17, 2015)

Davey P said:


> You might have been better spending a couple of quid more and getting something like this:
> 
> Watch tools kit
> 
> The quality should be more than good enough for occasional usage, and I think the case back opener is worth the money on it's own :thumbsup:


 to be fair they are all only as good as the strength in the hands using it


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## Davey P (Sep 9, 2010)

I agree, but using that 2 pin case back remover is just asking for trouble, compared to the proper 3 pin version in the ebay kit, which gives a lot more torque.


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## Guest (Dec 17, 2015)

Davey P said:


> I agree, but using that 2 pin case back remover is just asking for trouble, compared to the proper 3 pin version in the ebay kit, which gives a lot more torque.


 never used the 2 pin type, they done look tough enough


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## SBryantgb (Jul 2, 2015)

I used a large jewellers screw driver (flat blade) and a tack hammer on the last case back I couldn't get open. Its really tricky you have to hold both the watch and the screw driver in your left hand and tap with the hammer with your right hand..

I know this is of no help, but it is a true story :yes:


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## Guest (Dec 17, 2015)

SBryantgb said:


> I used a large jewellers screw driver (flat blade) and a tack hammer on the last case back I couldn't get open. Its really tricky you have to hold both the watch and the screw driver in your left hand and tap with the hammer with your right hand..
> 
> I know this is of no help, but it is a true story :yes:


 shocking :swoon:


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## SBryantgb (Jul 2, 2015)

Bruce said:


> shocking :swoon:


 The truth so often is :yes:


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

Well, after a few beers, a couldn't give a heck attitude to whether I wrecked it, I managed to get the back off.

Tomorrow, when the light is good and my hand is steady, I will take some photos, for forum opinions. There seems to be some pitting on what I would call the flywheel, but the rest of the watch seems undamaged. I'll also take a photo of the front to seek any opinion on what that is.


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

The camera is not taking very good close up pictures. As I said, apart from pitting on the half fly-wheel it appears okay.

So, questions. How do I get the watch itself out of the casing, so I can clear the dial. How then do you remove glass to replace it. Finally, are they the smallest screws in the world, holding the battery/capacitor in and what do people use to remove it?


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## Guest (Dec 18, 2015)

Road_Hog said:


> The camera is not taking very good close up pictures. As I said, apart from pitting on the half fly-wheel it appears okay.
> 
> So, questions. How do I get the watch itself out of the casing, so I can clear the dial. How then do you remove glass to replace it. Finally, are they the smallest screws in the world, holding the battery/capacitor in and what do people use to remove it?


 you need loupe or similar, there is a small metal strap that goes between the case and the movement near the stem, its very hard to see and very easy to lose, its also important to get it fitted right as its part of the circuit thats activated when the crown is pulled, i think it needs a total strip down and service, if there is any discoloration anywhere in the case then at the very least the battery has "gassed out" and coated the internals, you may be lucky and get it working with just a cell swap, but i wouldn't even chance it without a thorough clean, its just not worth the hassle or cost IMO


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## DJH584 (Apr 10, 2013)

If you are going to remove the movement from the case and go any further with dismantling the watch. then I would suggest that you get the tech sheet for the movement just in case things go awry. If you haven't already got the sheet, you can get that document on this link http://www.phfactor.net/wtf/Seiko%20Tech%20Sheets%202/285_Seiko%205M22,%205M23A.pdf


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## IAmATeaf (Dec 4, 2011)

Davey P said:


> I agree, but using that 2 pin case back remover is just asking for trouble, compared to the proper 3 pin version in the ebay kit, which gives a lot more torque.


 I've got an el-cheapo 3 pin/prong version that I've used for quite a few watches to date but the damned thing won't open up the back of my skx013, the case back on this must have been torque wrenched in place as if I use any more force I fear that things will slip and start flying.


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## Davey P (Sep 9, 2010)

IAmATeaf said:


> I've got an el-cheapo 3 pin/prong version that I've used for quite a few watches to date but the damned thing won't open up the back of my skx013, the case back on this must have been torque wrenched in place as if I use any more force I fear that things will slip and start flying.


 Try turning the watch, not the case back remover. I've found that is much more effective in opening tight watch backs. Set the prongs to the correct distance to 3 of the lugs. Hold the case back remover and watch in the same hand, with your thumb over the watch face. Press hard into the watch so it doesn't slip, then slowly turn the watch using your other hand, gripping the sides of the watch lugs. This works better and is much easier if you remove the strap or bracelet. I haven't found a watch I couldn't undo using this method. I hope my description makes sense anyway :biggrin:


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## IAmATeaf (Dec 4, 2011)

Davey P said:


> Try turning the watch, not the case back remover. I've found that is much more effective in opening tight watch backs. Set the prongs to the correct distance to 3 of the lugs. Hold the case back remover and watch in the same hand, with your thumb over the watch face. Press hard into the watch so it doesn't slip, then slowly turn the watch using your other hand, gripping the sides of the watch lugs. This works better and is much easier if you remove the strap or bracelet. I haven't found a watch I couldn't undo using this method. I hope my description makes sense anyway :biggrin:


 Thanks, it never occurred to me to even try that, I tried with holding the head in a watch case holder but that just forced the plastic pegs off the holder as the the entire head just rotated.


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## Davey P (Sep 9, 2010)

Trust me, it will work mate :thumbsup:


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## Road_Hog (Nov 19, 2009)

Well, I've got my capacitor replacement plus the rubber seal and I shall fit them and see if it works. If it does, then I will look to go down the replacement glass route.


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