# What Makes The Perfect Chronograph?



## Agent orange (Feb 11, 2006)

Been mulling this over for a while and the arrival of a new watch acted as the catalyst to commit my inanities to paper, well the interweb to be more precise.

*Okay here's my thought and a list of requirements.*

First of all lets consider chronograph watches as a whole, they tell the time and have the facility to record a second, independent passage of time. Amazing when you think about it, all that information on a little disc strapped to your wrist. If you don't dwell on the technicalities too much (like I ever do ) and just think of the concept, they really are a little piece of mechanical magic. Maybe because I'm not a watch maker and don't pretend to even understand just how watches work I'm in awe of how much information can be accurately and clearly displayed. To think that the majority of the best chronograph movements were designed and built way before the advent of computer aided design and manufacturing blows me away.

*Enough overview lets get down to specifics *

*My 'want' list comprises the following, in no specific order.*

Clarity

Legibility

Simplicity (both in use and to read)

Balance

Date function

Manageable size (I don't want a dinner plate that I'll bash into every doorframe)

Robust movement

*And on my 'nice to' have list*

An automatic movement (I love hand wounds but autos are just so convenient)

A full 60 minute register (fed up with 30 second registers and I never understood why most chronos seem to have them)

*Things I could quiet happily live without*

Hour recorder sub dial (very rarely does a timed event last longer than 60 minutes and if it does, well I can usually remember the hour I activated the chronograph tbh)

24 hour indicator (I'm rarely so confused that I don't know if it's night or day, might be useful in an Arctic summer or winter I guess)

Day indicator (again I'n rarely so confused that I don't know what day it is, fine if you go a on an Oliver Reed style bender I guess though)

Moon phase indicator (unnecessary visual clutter, just look up at the night sky)

*So where does that leave us*

Well most of the usual candidates fall beside the wayside. I love my Omega Speedmasters but the MKI and II are hand wound, have a 30 minute sub dial and no date.



















The Lemania equipped models come very close but the cal.1045 has a day and a 24 hour indicator, lovely to have but ultimately unnecessary imho. The cal. 1040/1 is even closer still but again that 24 hour register goes against it. Plus you could justifiably argue that the dial is pretty unbalanced with the sub dials at 6 and 9.



















For sheer legibility and simplicity the Seamaster Chronostop is pretty hard to beat, especially the more useful internal bezel model. Incredibly legible, simple and extremely comfortable on the wrist. However it's hand wound, has no date function and with no minute recored maybe it's just a little bit too pared down.










TBC...


----------



## Agent orange (Feb 11, 2006)

*So where does this leave us (well me to be more accurate)?*

This is were my new arrival comes in (as if you hadn't already have guessed that







). I consider this to be probably the most complete and legible chronograph made to date, may I introduce Tissot Navigator equipped with a Lemania 1343.










It has a full size and full 60 minute and seconds recorder hands. No piddly little sub dials to squint at and try and decipher. No useless 30 minute or hour sub dials. Everything about this movement is aimed at clarity. No extras, no unnecessary complications or visual clutter, just legibility pure and simple. From the chronograph hands being in orange to large and simple 32mm dial, this watches reason d'etre is obvious and it succeeds with aplomb.

A few pics to hopefully illustrate my thinking.














































I know there's many other chronograph movements and watches out there but I was trying (unsuccessfully) to keep this short, plus I don't have them all to compare.

Obviously all of the above is just my meanderings and I'm undoubtably in the honeymoon period with a new watch. So what are your requirements for the perfect chronograph or as near as damn it?

Cheers,

Gary


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

That is a great looking watch :notworthy:.

However, IMHO you can't beat a Speedmaster :man_in_love:.


----------



## Rotundus (May 7, 2012)

agree with most of what AO says except the bit about automatics and my well known disdain for contrasting date windows.

so fer me it's still the omega chronostop as the best of those shown.

no min hand required as there is an internal rotating bezel.

that new po chrono looks nice too mind, and i dont even like chronos.

that said, couldn't wear a watch that doesn't have minute/second markers. yes, am strange - this isn't news to most folk.

the tissot certainly doesn't look bad at all. better than most in fact, but ........

given a free hand i would lose the tachy scale or at least put it on the outer bezel/case.

take the min/sec markers off the dial and put them on the upper flange making it a proper rehaut.

either lose the date function completely or at least reverse it to white on black.

but that's just me.

:drinks:

vive la difference. and it does go well on that nato :thumbsup:

forgot to mention how much i like the hands on the tissot, vurry niiice indeeeed


----------



## DaveOS (May 9, 2010)

I think having an hour register can be quite handy. Car parking time and cooking spring to mind. If your not a fan or 12h registers, how about this;



















It's hour register only goes to 5 hours. God knows why but I quite like the watch. (although I've still not worn it).


----------



## itsguy (Nov 16, 2009)

Another great find there... I'd have agree that's the most logical and useable layout I've ever seen, for up to an hour at least - I wouldn't mind an hour sub-dial or rotating bezel just for those 'how long have I been on this plane anyway?' moments, but you can live without it.

I'd also have to agree that great as a speedmaster or 7750 looks, trying to actually work out what time it's displaying always seems like an exercise in squinting and mental arithmetic leading to a vague and uncertain conclusion. For clarity this beats it hands down, and I'd assume the mechanical system is brilliantly and elegantly simple and low maintenance too.

I'm curious to know what other watches use it.


----------



## dtc2 (Mar 7, 2010)

try again...........

grabbed wrong pic.


----------



## dtc2 (Mar 7, 2010)

Agent orange said:


>


this is stunning. How much do ex cond ones change hands for ?

loev the strap, the hands, case shape in fact the whole thing.


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

For me ? :huh:

Classic tri-compax 3-6-9 sub-dial layout, incorporating a cleverly placed day-date window

with the get-up-and-go practicality, reliability and superb accuracy of 15 jewelled quartz.

Need I say more ?



















O.K., so Seiko may have cribbed some of their design cues from various Omega Speedmasters - but they got it 'right'.


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> For me ? :huh:
> 
> Classic tri-compax 3-6-9 sub-dial layout, incorporating a cleverly placed day-date window
> 
> ...


Well, almost!


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

dtc2 said:


> Agent orange said:
> 
> 
> >
> ...


Oh, one like that would be Â£1k+ probably more?

Not a very common version, most were the classic black dial and all white hands.

The shark mesh strap wasn't an original fitment as far as I'm aware, but they are rather nice :man_in_love:.


----------



## dtc2 (Mar 7, 2010)

Defender said:


> dtc2 said:
> 
> 
> > Agent orange said:
> ...


cheers.

its the red on the dial that sets it off rather nicely. Don't think it would be quite so striking with balck and white.


----------



## dapper (Jun 18, 2004)

Criteria for the perfect chronograph?

Well, for me, they're as follows:

Mother of pearl dial.

Sapphire crystal.

Onion crown with blue cabochon.

Roman numerals.

Gold plated case & bracelet.

Thirty minute chrono subdial.

Semi-quickset date.

In-house manual wind movement.

T-bar lugs.

Display back.

Russian manufacture.

And I managed to find a watch with all the above features....



















Cheers


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

dtc2 said:


> cheers.
> 
> its the red on the dial that sets it off rather nicely. Don't think it would be quite so striking with balck and white.


The dial is rather striking, it's more orange than red in reality, as are the hands.

You can still buy the dials then all you need is a good MKII Speedmaster and away you go!


----------



## Agent orange (Feb 11, 2006)

Defender said:


> dtc2 said:
> 
> 
> > cheers.
> ...


Yep you're right about the colour I was having issues with balance on my camera that day but I liked the compositions so kept the pics. There is a maroon colour in the minute track but the chrono hands are definitely orange. Here's a couple of more colour accurate pics.



















As for price well they seem to vary tremendously. My example had the full Bienne treatment and is pretty much factory fresh, plus I have the original tritium dial and handset which are in very good condition. I'd say it was worth at least Â£1,000 probably more like Â£1,250, maybe even more. The mesh wasn't originally a factory option but it just looks cool B)

Cheers,

Gary


----------



## Agent orange (Feb 11, 2006)

Lots of good suggestions guys and it's refreshing to see that we seem to have different ideas as to what constitutes the perfect chronograph. It would be an extremely boring world if we all liked and bought the same thing.

SEIKO7A38Fan a few summers back back I had a 7A38-7278, wore it for my holiday but decided it was just a little too light, so flipped it. Great watch though and the layout is undoubtable a classic.










Cheers,

Gary


----------



## Walnuts (Apr 20, 2010)

dapper said:


> Criteria for the perfect chronograph?
> 
> Well, for me, they're as follows:
> 
> ...


You really consider a semi-quickset date as opposed to a quickset date as necessary for the prefect chronograph? And it just "has" to be of Russian manufacture? I find that hard to believe.

For me, I only have one chrono, and I honestly don't think I have ever used its chronograph functions its a glycine stratoforte










The new Stowa 1938 blackface chronograph is one of the nices watches I have ever seen


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Agent orange said:


> SEIKO7A38Fan a few summers back back I had a 7A38-7278 ....


I think you'll find that was a 7A38-727*0*, Gary.








No such 7A38 model as a -7278. :no:

There was a 7A38-727*B*, but those had an off-white coloured dial, with light grey subs.

In fact, I remember your particular watch well, it was one that Bry Satin-ized, wasn't it ?










My own first 7A38 was a -7270 - still in it's original slightly wabi'd brushed / part polished finish. :man_in_love:



SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> This is my much-loved :wub: well-travelled
> 
> 
> 
> ...





Agent orange said:


> Great watch though and the layout is undoubtable a classic.


Pity that they'll never reach the same classic status of the Omega 'Speedy' though. :sadwalk:


----------



## tixntox (Jul 17, 2009)

So long as the dial is not too "busy" to read and it's accurate and easy to use, it will do for me. My chronographs are hardly ever used (parking and timing my eggs, plus the odd trip to Silverstone on sunny days for the bike racing!). :thumbsup:

Mike


----------



## SEIKO7A38 (Feb 12, 2009)

Agent orange said:


> .... I had a 7A38-7270, wore it for my holiday but decided it was just a little too light, so flipped it.


One of the great things about the Seiko 7A38's is that they come in a variety of designs, sizes and weights.

This one, a -6020, a recent acquisition which I haven't got round to cleaning up yet :blush:, is a little bit heaver. :sweatdrop:


----------



## Agent orange (Feb 11, 2006)

SEIKO7A38Fan said:


> Agent orange said:
> 
> 
> > SEIKO7A38Fan a few summers back back I had a 7A38-7278 ....
> ...


Yep correct on both counts and damn my dyslexia, mild though it is I still get numbers wrong :taz:

Cheers,

Gary


----------



## dapper (Jun 18, 2004)

Walnuts said:


>


Not bad but it's trying so hard to be understated that it's ended up looking a bit 'plain'


----------



## Robbo2 (Feb 24, 2008)

dapper said:


> Walnuts said:
> 
> 
> >
> ...


Well I think they have got it just right, very clean but still striking.


----------



## DMP (Jun 6, 2008)

Agree with a lot of what you said, Gary, and what a nice little Tissot that Navigator is! Aesthetically,the Speedy Pro & MkII are the most pleasing to my eye, with their beautifully balanced dials, although the lack of date display makes them a somewhat impractical proposition for daily use (for me). My favorites amongst the plethora of 70/80's mechanical chrono movements are the Lemania 1340/Omega 1040 (in the guise of the Speedy Mk IV) and the Lemania 5100










Of the quartz varieties, the Seiko 7A38, in particular the 7029 model, is my absolute favorite.


----------



## Dick Browne (Dec 16, 2008)

Agent orange said:


> *
> *


Funnily enough, Gary, I was impressed enough by that to seek one out at the watch fair today. Only found one, and it was a bit overpriced considering the amount of work it needed, so I declined the sellers invitation to part with large amounts of folding.

I did, however, find a promo chrono for the Marlboro F1 team, which I think dates to 73 (although I need to confirm that). Pictures on a separate thread later, but the thing that attracted me to it was that it has a number of things in common with your Tissot. It's in a larger, more clunky case, but has a Lemania movement (I believe it's a 1343), and the minute register is an aeroplane hand on the main dial. It has one subdial more than yours - one for running seconds at 9 and another at 6 for the hour register.


----------



## Stuart Davies (Jan 13, 2008)

I'm not going to go all deep as to why I think these are the perfect Chrono's - they are in my opinion perfect because I like to look of them rather than how they function as as designed - to split and record time.


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

Agent orange said:


> Yep you're right about the colour I was having issues with balance on my camera that day but I liked the compositions so kept the pics. There is a maroon colour in the minute track but the chrono hands are definitely orange. Here's a couple of more colour accurate pics.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That really is one stunning watch :man_in_love:, I think my MKII may well get the 'Racing' treatment as part of a general make over.

The prices do seem to vary greatly, as does condition, I would say your estimated value is on the low side.


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

Dick Browne said:


> Funnily enough, Gary, I was impressed enough by that to seek one out at the watch fair today. Only found one, and it was a bit overpriced considering the amount of work it needed, so I declined the sellers invitation to part with large amounts of folding.
> 
> I did, however, find a promo chrono for the Marlboro F1 team, which I think dates to 73 (although I need to confirm that). Pictures on a separate thread later, but the thing that attracted me to it was that it has a number of things in common with your Tissot. It's in a larger, more clunky case, but has a Lemania movement (I believe it's a 1343), and the minute register is an aeroplane hand on the main dial. It has one subdial more than yours - one for running seconds at 9 and another at 6 for the hour register.


Isn't the twin sub register version the 1340 or 1341?

I have a Tissot Navigator with that movement, it's the 'Armadillo/Lobster' bracelet type, which is missing :sadwalk:, I would like to find an original bracelet for it, but until then the plan is to make some adaptors for it and fit a more conventional braclet :thumbsup:.


----------



## Agent orange (Feb 11, 2006)

Defender said:


> Isn't the twin sub register version the 1340 or 1341?
> 
> I have a Tissot Navigator with that movement, it's the 'Armadillo/Lobster' bracelet type, which is missing :sadwalk:, I would like to find an original bracelet for it, but until then the plan is to make some adaptors for it and fit a more conventional braclet :thumbsup:.


That's correct D, the Lemania 1340 has an hour counter sub dial at 6. The difference between the L1340 and L1341 is the latter is slightly simplified and does without a 24 hour indicator. Omega utilised the L1340 as their cal.1040 They also heavily modified the L1341 including re-instating a 24 hr indicator and making it chronometer rated (the worlds first automatic chronometer rated chronograph allegedly) and this was cal.1041. This was only ever used in the Speedmaster 125 from 1973 and this was a limited edition of 2,000 to commemorate Omegas 125 anniversary.

Here's my Seamaster with a cal.1040










And Speedmaster 125 showing the re-instated 24hr indicator










Cheers,

Gary


----------



## ANDI (Mar 14, 2006)

Here is my nearly perfect chrono,3 6 9 ballanced dials,easy to read numbers,bigger than the original Breitling Chronoracer it resembles.Piy Breitling only use this dial layout on their most expensive chronos now(Blackbird and B01 range) Downside is the Poljot movement is a hand wind . Anybody fans of the Longines Spirit Chrono,lovely classic design...discontinued and still pricey if you can find one


----------



## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

ANDI said:


> Here is my nearly perfect chrono,3 6 9 ballanced dials,easy to read numbers,bigger than the original Breitling Chronoracer it resembles.Piy Breitling only use this dial layout on their most expensive chronos now(Blackbird and B01 range) Downside is the Poljot movement is a hand wind . Anybody fans of the Longines Spirit Chrono,lovely classic design...discontinued and still pricey if you can find one


Blimey....that's a 2, 4, 5, 7, 8 and 10 eater. :jawdrop:


----------



## ANDI (Mar 14, 2006)

Silver Hawk said:


> ANDI said:
> 
> 
> > Here is my nearly perfect chrono,3 6 9 ballanced dials,easy to read numbers,bigger than the original Breitling Chronoracer it resembles.Piy Breitling only use this dial layout on their most expensive chronos now(Blackbird and B01 range) Downside is the Poljot movement is a hand wind . Anybody fans of the Longines Spirit Chrono,lovely classic design...discontinued and still pricey if you can find one
> ...


 So was its eeeeeerm....."inspiration" . The Breitling Chronoracer had a very unusual mechanical and quartz electronic hybrid movement...


----------



## Defender (Jan 27, 2009)

Agent orange said:


> That's correct D, the Lemania 1340 has an hour counter sub dial at 6. The difference between the L1340 and L1341 is the latter is slightly simplified and does without a 24 hour indicator. Omega utilised the L1340 as their cal.1040 They also heavily modified the L1341 including re-instating a 24 hr indicator and making it chronometer rated (the worlds first automatic chronometer rated chronograph allegedly) and this was cal.1041. This was only ever used in the Speedmaster 125 from 1973 and this was a limited edition of 2,000 to commemorate Omegas 125 anniversary.
> 
> Here's my Seamaster with a cal.1040
> 
> ...


Hi Gary,

Thanks for the pics and info, all my books etc. are at home and my memory isn't what it used to be







!

The Speedmaster 125 is a grail for me, I have a '65 'Ed White' (321), a MKII (861) and a ST176.0016 (1045), which I should get back from STS shortly.

ATB,

Ivon.


----------



## normdiaz (May 5, 2004)

And if you like the looks of the watch but don't particularly care about the chrono functions (like me), you go with the sub-dial-less model like this one whose only tip offs to a chrono capability are the pushers and function window.


----------



## SharkBike (Apr 15, 2005)

I'm a frequent flier, so I like an hour counter for timing flights. :yes:

I've also fallen hard for the minute counter on this one, so my vote goes to...

*Omega Seamaster Chronograph 176.007, cal.1040*










:wub:


----------



## Mechanical Alarm (Oct 18, 2010)

Here's my idea of one of the 'classics' or should I say, Chronoswiss Klassic. Do I dare say also, a 'dress watch'?? (Referring to that other thread):



















*
This would be my grail chronograph:*










Now that's a Classic!


----------



## normdiaz (May 5, 2004)

Mechanical Alarm said:


> Here's my idea of one of the 'classics' or should I say, Chronoswiss Klassic. Do I dare say also, a 'dress watch'?? (Referring to that other thread):
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Are the "onion crowns" considered "classic"? Maybe just me, but they're a "turn-off" when it comes to watch selection. :cheers:


----------



## AlexC1981 (Jul 26, 2009)

It looks like there is a chronograph for everyone. 

My Buran is my favourite chronograph at the moment. It's actually knocked my Strela off the top spot (for a while, at least).

Having a rotating bezel means I could use that for counting hours or as a separate timer.


----------

