# New Lens Arrived Today



## stonedeaf (Dec 3, 2008)

My new macro lens from the Bay arrived today and I am very impressed :thumbup:

Could not wait to try it out and here are my first snaps - taken in my new 'Blue Peter' light tent!

As is to be expected the depth of field is limited at 1:1 but an aperture of f32 helps










1/8 sec f8 +2 Stops part of a bracketing series










30 secs f25










30 secs f25










30 secs f25

The longer exposures with minimum aperture seem to work best to me and it's interesting to see the finish on the dial which is what allows it to change colour as the light hits it from different angles.

Despite preferring the leather strap at first I'm beginning to really like the bracelet now 

By the way the lens is Canons 100mm f2.8 macro and I got it on the bay for about 2/3 rds High St prices - talk about jammy :cheers:


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## PaulBoy (Dec 2, 2007)

Super shots (what's the lens / camera btw) - The only issue I can see is that with your long exposures the minute hand is moving causing a slight blur

Paul

Doh! just saw you mentioned the lens







What camera though?


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## Andy Tims (Apr 13, 2008)

Superb shots


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## stonedeaf (Dec 3, 2008)

PaulBoy said:


> Super shots (what's the lens / camera btw) - The only issue I can see is that with your long exposures the minute hand is moving causing a slight blur
> 
> Paul
> 
> ...


I use a Canon 10d. I agree about the minute hand, I like to see a bit of movement in snaps - adds a bit of life - it only seems to work with the seconds hand though. Will stop watch in future.


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## PaulBoy (Dec 2, 2007)

stonedeaf said:


> PaulBoy said:
> 
> 
> > Super shots (what's the lens / camera btw) - The only issue I can see is that with your long exposures the minute hand is moving causing a slight blur
> ...


Fair comment about the movement - I have a 450D on loan & must say it seems to fit the bill for me (big LCD bright viewfinder etc) - I've seen a few great pics with tthe standard non macro lenses paired up with a Raynox 250 macro 'filter' (bit like Canon's own 250 & 500D macro filters) - As I can't justify a dedicated macro lens I might get a Raynox & see how that performs?

Paul


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## stonedeaf (Dec 3, 2008)

PaulBoy said:


> stonedeaf said:
> 
> 
> > PaulBoy said:
> ...


The 450 is an excellent camera, better than my 10D in many respects. The macro lens isn't just for macro work it is also a superb 100mm prime lens and is therefore ideal for portraits etc so it will get used elsewhere but I agree it is an extravagance as 100mm is covered by another zoom.


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## Silver Hawk (Dec 2, 2003)

Great photos! :thumbsup:

I bought a Canon EOS 1000D + Canon EFS 60mm USM Macro at the beginning of January...and frankly, I'm struggling with getting sharp images. I've been told that I'm running into diffraction issues when taking at f16 and higher....but your f25 seems very good. So I'm at a loss.... :sadwalk:


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## PaulBoy (Dec 2, 2007)

Silver Hawk said:


> Great photos! :thumbsup:
> 
> I bought a Canon EOS 1000D + Canon EFS 60mm USM Macro at the beginning of January...and frankly, I'm struggling with getting sharp images. I've been told that I'm running into diffraction issues when taking at f16 and higher....but your f25 seems very good. So I'm at a loss.... :sadwalk:


Hi Paul - I take it you are doing all the usual stuff like tripod / remote / lighting etc? - If yes you might have a faulty lens or camera - Is there someone close by you could swap lenses / cameras with to check? - Good luck

Paul

PS I hope to take some pics of watches 2moro (non macro at the mo)


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## PhilM (Nov 5, 2004)

Lovely photo's mate :thumbsup:


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## stonedeaf (Dec 3, 2008)

Silver Hawk said:


> Great photos! :thumbsup:
> 
> I bought a Canon EOS 1000D + Canon EFS 60mm USM Macro at the beginning of January...and frankly, I'm struggling with getting sharp images. I've been told that I'm running into diffraction issues when taking at f16 and higher....but your f25 seems very good. So I'm at a loss.... :sadwalk:


Sorry to hear you're having problems. Diffraction and sharpness is a thorny topic - it can be calculated mathematically but the results are not always consistent 

I really don't know enough about it, or your equipment to advise but the old adge of using the minimum aperture you can get away with aint too far out.

My lenses are all Canon L Series, built to high end specs, and I am not aware of having suffered from diffraction. Most of my photographic experience is with low light live performance events where I am lucky if I can stop down to f5.6 at ISO400 or 800 to get a reasonable shutter speed. This watch photography is a whole new ball game for me and I am still very much struggling with it myself. With my new macro lens I often use manual focus and move the object to achieve it. Even at f25 the depth of field is very small at 1:1 and it's easy to be slightly out with focusing giving a soft effect. Is all of the frame out or only parts, if the latter I would suggest it's a focus issue not diffraction. Try bracketing the shot at different apertures with the same focus point and distance and study the results, move the lighting a little and generally experiment - it doesn't cost anything except your time. Most importantly Don't give up - if others can do it so can you :thumbsup:

If you want a bit of light relief try this "Light Relief??" :wink1:

Best of luck


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