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About horz

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    17 Jewel
  1. Cheers guys. Manged to get it out after a little dip in some lighter fluid. The one thing I hadn't noticed before is that I needed to almost 'thread' it out by rotating the wheel past one of the mainplate protrusions. So the teeth were either side of the sticking out bit of the mainplate. Seems so simple now!
  2. Got given this watch by a friend to have a look at and, strangely, I can't seem to get the escape wheel free from the mainplate. The two overhanging parts of the plate limit movement of the wheel so that I can't lift it free of the jewel. It could be that there is some gunk causing it to stick (in which case next step is a soak), but I thought I'd check here before forcing anything. Has anyone seen this before?
  3. You might want to check out this: http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/ It's a great walk through covering the disassembly, lubrication and reassembly of a seiko 7s26 movement. But I would echo what jnash said, and pick up a cheap pocket watch to have a go at.
  4. Had my speedbird 3 on during the day. Wearing this one now. Just finished putting it back together after a full service, new mainspring and new crystal. Really pleased with how it's turned out.
  5. Again, the crown wheel teeth look perfectly fine. Here is a better photo which shows the winding pinion and crown wheel side by side. So, after deciding that there was nothing wrong with the two wheels, I thought I'd try putting everything back in place and see if the problem remained. Oddly enough, there was no more winding issue! Puzzling... After thinking about it my best guess at the cause was that the washer which sits atop the crown wheel must've been seated incorrectly. The crown wheel screw does not mate with the top of the wheel (of course, otherwise it woud not move) and ins
  6. I bought this watch from the forum a while back, with a handwinding issue. The problem was described as a grinding sound and, on arrival, that's exactly what it was like. It felt as if something had stripped teeth, so I set about looking at the movement to see what was up. Here's the watch as I received it. Quite fond of the white dial, it makes a nice change after having a black dialled scuba dude amphibia for a while. So, opening it up. This was interesting, the rotor was much nicer than I had seen on vostoks before. The rotor (left) was on this watch, while the other (right) is from
  7. Helenarou on ebay (user rouhelena) has a 6538 homage with a sapphire crystal. You can find it by searching "6538 homage" I think. They are available with Sellita sw-200 and eta2836 from memory, and also can come as a kit without movement.
  8. This one today. Can't even remember when I wore it last!
  9. It looks like the stem's snapped off, as well as a gasket possibly being missing as you've noted. If you can find out the movement inside then you should be able to get a replacement stem fairly cheaply (might be worth getting two in case one gets trimmed short by mistake). As for the crown, contacting Ebel would probably be your best bet unless you can find a similar generic crown and gasket, but I wouldn't know how to go about finding one, maybe CousinsUK would have them? To replace the stem and crown: Take the caseback off remove old stem (there will generally be a small button on the mo
  10. After a quick google I think that watch might be genuine. I think that there are two versions of the tt1 diver. One with lumed hour markers and a 984ft depth rating with numerals around the outside of the dial, and another without the lumed markers and a depth rating of 999ft with lume dots around the dial. Can't say definitively though, as I've only looked at a few images. Here's an example. 2nd pic from Ric356II over at tz-uk
  11. Not quite unfortunately. I'm pretty sure that Oris uses an eta 2824 in the tt1, which is a movement replicated to a very good standard by several manufacturers (at least in visual terms, there's a teardown of some clone movements over at WUS for more detail). Although I'd imagine most are produced as what I would call 'genuine' clone movements (such as Seagull, Sellita and the like), there are some clones which have eta markings and do end up in replica watches. Making it even harder to tell whether a watch is authentic or not.
  12. Got this one back on its bracelet for a change
  13. I think that sounds right. Usually I would set the day and date to the previous day (so Fri 25 if I was setting for today), and then roll the time forward so that I can see the day/date change by itself (to the correct ones) and hence I know whether the hands indicate am/pm afterwards.
  14. What...not even any clues!...c'mon Mach, the suspense is killing me/us! :lol: Ok, here`s a closeup photo of the same model... I`m off now to get my dinner, catchya later guys :P Oooh! Is it that Laco with the odd strap setup and the crown at 12? The model name escapes me.
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