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Everything posted by Padders

  1. Looking closely at that listing. The watch looks OK but the paperwork suggest the service cost £600 at 'The Watch Hospital' ie not Omega or STS (who are the best at these). They mention a 'replacement bezel insert'. This is a major worry since Omega do not supply just the insert, only the complete bezel at a cost of circa £225. This may be a bodged repair, or they may have stumped up for a full bezel, it looks OK but I would study this closely if I bought it. His £600 outlay would have paid for a full service, refinish and new bezel at Omega so he didn't get good value there!
  2. I just clicked on that first link thinking 'this will be an interesting read' and then realised I had written some of it! One very quick comment I would make about this. Don't be fooled into buying one which needs much cosmetic work. Parts like the bezel and crystal are very expensive and not included in the std service fee. To make it work viably, a watch in need of either of those needs to be purchased at less than a grand, if it needs both, way way less. Getting a mint serviced SMP Auto at less than £1,500 today is basically impossible without a lot of luck. You'll see plenty cheaper, but there will often be big money needed to make minter out of them. To those that say, just get the ceramic at £2K, there are many, myself included who find the ceramic model inferior in several ways. Not knocking it as a choice but it is not a no-brainer to choose that over something like a 2254.
  3. In case anyone else has this issue, the amazon one linked above by @JoT is a perfect match. Many thanks
  4. The guy I am trying to help is very, very precise in his ways and if possible I would like to find the exact same one. I will take a look though in case this one is on there! Thanks. Yes that is very similar. Many thanks, it might do the job.
  5. Anyone know where to get a replacement for the 22mm soft (silicone?) rubber strap supplied originally on the RLT70 model. Yes I have already asked Roy but he hasn't got stock any more. It would be a big help if a current owner could take a look and see if there are any markings which would identify it. I have a pal with one who is not clued up in watch matters and has asked my advice in finding a replacement. I had one of these but sold it long ago. Picture borrowed from another earlier thread on here.
  6. The difference in price between a mech and quartz movement is probably of the order of a couple of hundred quid, depending on the movement of course. Many sellers of high end watches eg Omega tend to price the quartz about that amount less which seems pretty fair to me. If you don't like it, don't buy one.
  7. For future reference and for anyone else looking for a recommendation, these are really good for the money. There is a good reason why those in the jewellery trade use 10x triplets, the field of view is very wide vs the other magnifications, a 20x is too narrow a view to be much use other than making out GIA numbers: http://belomostore.com/belomo-10x-triplet-loupe.html
  8. It is a complete minefield. I would say that about 80% of the stuff on ebay is either a Franken, redial or junk or all 3. The % is lower from dealers but they too often try to pass off redials and bitsa watches as original. Part of the problem is the profusion of models, meaning that it is tough to become and expert on all. You say you are looking at a steel 1960s Seamaster. I would estimate that there are over 50 models which fit that description, all different. By all means post some pics if you want feedback but it is not a straight forward process finding a straight watch at a reasonable price. Or indeed any price.
  9. I am with Lampoc on this. Look at it from the buyer’s POV. Assuming he is being truthful, you have sold him faulty goods. It was necessary to take the back off to replace the battery, perhaps he tried it himself and was clumsy or perhaps he went to a Timpsons butcher butcher but either way these things happen. Pay the refund and take it on the chin. If it’s knackered anyway, a few scratches don’t reallly matter.
  10. You are right about the lack of bracelet being a bit cheeky but in fact the UK gets a pretty good deal on these vs the ROW. List is £4750 which includes the VAT (which in fact isn't liable in many other markets) so in fact here is one of the cheapest places to buy one. The difference in price between UK and markets like Europe and the US buys a bracelet...
  11. I have dealings with them, yes they seem reputable.
  12. The D50 is actually a lot more compatible with Nikon fit lenses than later models as it has the focus drive motor built into the body, the later bodies depend on the motors built into the lenses. You can mount, with a bit of research and care, virtually every Nikon lens back to the 1970s on a D50 as long as you check things like mirror to rear element clearance. It is a fantastic tool for playing with old manual focus lenses.
  13. I had one a few years back and liked it so much I bought several of its successors. The sensor is a little old hat now at 6MP but that won't stop it taking a cracking photo with the right lenses. You won't find the 70-300mm all that useful I would think and in fact a 50mm isn't actually all that handy either other than for head and shoulders portrait work where the big aperture helps with subject isolation and bokeh. You really need something around 35mm if fixed or a 18-55mm zoom which is very handy indeed, the one you link to is perfect but there are several versions, the better ones have VR, the early ones don't. You can't really use any ISO much above 800, 1600 max, so VR is very useful on a D50, even on a short lens IMO. I ended up on the Fujifilm system but do rate Nikon DX stuff very highly.
  14. They are both awkward to service properly and they are both great. Do Damasko scratch? Well I had a DA36 with NATO rash so yes they bloody well do. That aside, having experienced both I am definitely a fan. NATO rash aside, I consider that Damasko make the best tool 3 hander on the market. Bar none. Sinn are OK but play send fiddle in my mind, but second fiddle to Damsko is still playing at a high level. Neither make an elegant chrono since they use the fat as hell 7750 like most other small manufacturers.
  15. I wouldn't bother, with only a few exceptions poor condition pocket watches like that are worth little more than scrap gold value I am afraid. People just don't wear them any more so there isn't the collector interest there is in wrist watches. Yes if it were a Patek or Omega or similar it would be well worth saving but you are likely to need to spend £150-250 to get it healthy and that is outlay you just won't see back. I have several lovely pocket watches but have no illusions they are priceless heirlooms.
  16. I have had both. The mid size was too small for my 7.25" wrist but more than how it felt on the wrist was how it looked. The thick bezel means that there is very little dial area so the hands look stumpy whereas the 41mm looks much better. The dial area on the 41mm is basically exactly the same as the 36mm dynamic gen 3, meaning that the 36mm SMP must be similar to a ~32mm ladies watch dial! If resale is any kind of consideration then the full size is much better on that score too.
  17. These are no end of trouble. Just like the early Seiko kinetics, if you dont wear it often the capacitor will deteriorate and fail. Here is a wiki page discussing changing the cap over to a rechargeable cell: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omega_Seamaster_Omegamatic I has one that got through 3 cells in as many years ( because I didn’t wear it enough) which rather defeats the object of it charging itself. They look OK but don’t work well unless worn regularly ps you can’t overwind these, if 30 turns isn’t enough, try 120 or 1000 turns!
  18. As above, all good advice from Rog as ever. You need the spray to contact green leaves, ripping off the top growth then spraying the stems or soil will do abs zilch. Glyphosate is wonderful stuff and pretty safe and is in fact about the only thing still alowed to be used without a biohazard suit. Last time I tried half heartedly to kill some Ivy it took about 18 months. You need to do it properly and with purpose. Padders L3 RHS Cert in Hort (Yes really)
  19. I can't quite make out the case number, is it 596.1479 I think it must be as it gets hits that look like your watch. https://www.zeitauktion.com/de/omega-lady-de-ville-edelstahl-damenuhr-ref-596-1479-klassiker-163186
  20. The leading 5 on the case number denotes it as a woman’s watch. I assume it is pretty small. That 56m serial puts it at about 1997.
  21. Give it up Tom, he clearly thinks it’s IWC’s problem not the cowboys he bought it from.
  22. I try to keep the overall total under 30 and the subtotal of Omegas at a maximum of 20. I am failing a little at present so need to sell a couple. Or invent new rules.
  23. I have a few Radium lume watches. Omega was still using it up until about 1962. None of them will glow anymore as the strong Alpha radiation degrades the phosphorescent component. This below is a Seamaster from 1950 which uses Radium. Radium lume goes a nice pink beige colour so can look lovely. Only the dust is truly dangerous so watchmakers need to take precautions, alpha doesn’t penetrate skin well and is most dangerous when ingested. It’s perfectly safe to wear but don’t lick your dial. the Seiko above is 100% SL Lume or whatever Seiko calls it. Not radium or tritium
  24. I actually think this is a more than a little harsh. You can register and bid direct on Fellows website, no one is forcing you to use Saleroom so while I have my own issues with Fellows fee structure I don't blame them for the fees imposed by other parties. I also work 100 yards from them so postage isn't an issue for me personally but the fact remains they aren't remotely cheap. That said I do know that they employ skilled people and will on occasion reach out to brand specialists when required (no not me!), such as at a recent watch auction involving Speedmasters. I welcome representation from other commercial bodies, as long as Roy is happy then it is on balance more positive than negative as they can be held to account and often it is mutually beneficial. Welcome Jorden.
  25. Fellows are a decent reliable operation who seem to operate in good faith. I wouldn’t hesitate to use them and have done previously but it is hard to look past the fees, roughly 20% to sell and approaching 30% to buy once the marketing fee and VAT have been added. Making that sound palatable must be a marketing nightmare!
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