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Everything posted by pauluspaolo

  1. Magrette & St Honore French cake watch for me please - oh & Glashutte ain't too shabby either I'm still wearing the Ventus so it must be a keeper
  2. Thanks for the offer Alpha - much appreciated & I'll be in touch if I can't find any locally. I haven't really used & don't know of any local engineering firms, & I don't like asking for freebies from people I don't know/haven't dealt with before, so I probably won't be following Wrench's suggestion (sorry but it just seems too cheeky/rude to me)! The only places I can think of that might stock it are B&Q, Screwfix & Machine Mart - not too hopeful about any of them really but I'll let you know how I get on I'm also going to the maintenance department at work a try as they used to have a lathe, & have all sorts of store rooms around campus, so may have some stashed away somewhere
  3. Fair enough - I'm just going by what I've read on t'internet & from what I've been told by those with more experience at metalwork/machining than me .....which is just about everyone!
  4. Sorry for the grammar in the above post it's too late to edit the original post now but here's what it should say: I made a cap for the pen today out of a bit of copper bar I found in my bits box. It's turned out quite well I think & I've finally had a bit of success with copper turning, most of my other attempts have ended in failure. Copper seems to need lubrication to be successfully drilled/turned, I used 3-in1 oil but some people have used milk!! When drilling it helps to use a centre drill & to then go up incrementally in drill sizes; from 6mm to 8mm to 9mm etc until the required size - in this case 12mm - is reached. It also helps if the drill bits you're using are sharp (ask me how I know this!). When turning in the lathe (certainly if you're using a mini-lathe) then only small/fine cuts should be made with lubrication (3-in-1 again) & at quite a high speed, considering that there's no rpm readout on my lathe this can be tricky! I polished the cap with very fine emery (not sure what grit but fine) & liquid metal polish (brasso). Must admit I'm quite chuffed with the result & can't wait to using the pen & for it start tarnishing up a bit
  5. Made a cap for the pen today out of a bit of copper I found in my bits box. Turned out quite well I think & finally a bit of success with copper turning ad most of my other attempts have ended in failure. Copper seems to need lubrication to be successfully drilled/turned. When drilling it helps to use a centre & to go up incrementally in sizes (from 6mm to 8mm to 9mm etc until the required size - in this case 12mm - is reached. It also helps if the drill bits you're using are sharp (ask me how I know this!). When turning in the lathe take small/fine cuts only, use lubrication (I used 3-in-1 oil but some people use milk!) & quite a high speed. I polished it with very fine emery (not sure what grit but fine) & liquid metal polish (brasso). Must admit I'm quite chuffed with the result & can't wait to using the pen & for it start tarnishing up a bit
  6. I've made this today - my first pen It still needs a bit of tidying still & could do with a with some sort of cap. I'm going to try & make this tomorrow - not sure what to make it out of though but maybe some black nylon (to match the ring) or from aluminium for lightness/contrast. The body of the pen is 12mm brass bar drilled out 6.5mm to take the parker refill & 2.5mm for the actual nib part (the bit you actually write with). The black ring is nylon & there for a bit of contrast/decoration & to hide the join between the two body parts. The pocket clip isn't really big enough but was the only one I could find. I bought this one from America (via Ebay), does anyone know a source of these that's closer to home? At 12mm thick it's quite a chunky thing but it's comfortable to hold & to write with
  7. Well done on getting a working watch - it sounds like an interesting project to me Any chance of some photos?
  8. Thanks all I've driven to work in the car today just to celebrate its MOT pass. Even the temperature gauge worked on the journey in, which is a rarity as it's very intermittent/temperamental & just to prove that it threw it's dummy out of the pram on the way home & didn't work at all (not even a hint of movement ) Otherwise all was OK & the car continues to be fun to drive with very direct steering & excellent handling
  9. Referring to the original post & the clauses shown in said post - Rolex really are up their own arse. That's me done
  10. They're not common, though there is another one not far from me. I've never talked to the owner but I've seen it out & about a couple of times. Randomly it's looked after by the same garage that MOT's mine. Funnily, whilst my wife was in my SS1 we saw the other one & she asked what that funny looking car was?!?! The Scimitar GTE's were much more successful (Princess Anne owned a couple I think) & are more common. They were/are powered by Ford V6's - the 3 litre Essex & the 2.8 litre Cologne. However owners have started to modify these & have fitted various alternative engines over the years - everything from turbo diesels to whopping great V8's.A conversion that's becoming popular is fitting the V6 from the Vauxhall Omega leading to the car's being known as Scimega's. Not sure how much oomph the Vauxhall engine makes but it's a lot more than the Ford engines do
  11. Considering the "build quality" it may as well be a kit car, but no it's actually a production car (a Reliant Scimitar SS1). Reliant - they of Del boys 3 wheeler fame - built just over 1500 of them at their factory in Tamworth, Staffordshire. They came in various flavours most with Ford cvh engines (1300, 1400 & 1600) but some were fitted with the 1800cc Nissan turbo engine (from the Nissan Silvia turbo). These are called the Reliant 1800ti which makes them a pretty quick car even by todays standards. Owners have modified them even further & some now have big power 300+bhp in some cases which must be mental in such a small light car! Later versions were restyled & look a heck of a lot better with some having Rover K series engines. Handling on all versions is excellent with a surprisingly comfortable ride & very direct steering
  12. As some forum members may know I've owned this car for a number of years - I'll have owned it 13 years this year which is by far the longest I've owned any car. It's been off the road for 3 or 4 of those years whilst I fitted a new engine (1800 zetec to replace the original 1600 cvh) & uprated the suspension & brakes. I've never really considered the car finished though & this year I've fitted new alloys (it's one of the few cars that 3 spoke alloys look good on I think), new tyres & a new custom made stainless steel exhaust manifold (sounds good & looks so much better than the cast iron one I'd fitted before). For fairly obvious reasons the car didn't get used much last year & I only did 200 miles in it (I'm surprised I did that many). Anyway today was MOT day & I'm happy to say the car passed. Happy days & I'll probably be adding to the mileage tomorrow
  13. Even for a non-chrongraph kind of chap like me that's just a little bit epic Owning an IWC of some sort remains as one of my watch related grails - it's an unattainable dream at the moment but hopefully one day Enjoy the watch it's a beauty
  14. Good call If I hadn't have had the Loctite then something similar to JB would also have been my choice. I'm wearing the watch today & no problems with the new crown so far (though it's still a bit shiny)
  15. Too late done it ....for better or for worse I've made a new crown cover today & added a bit of shape/texture to it. I tried knurling it but it hasn't worked very well (it's better than it being plain though I think). I've glued it on to the existing crown using a drop of loctite 638 (very strong threadlock) which I've used on a some of my other lathe related projects without any problems. The crown still works fine - screws & unscrews, the date quickset works etc. I like it but think it'll look better when the crown tarnishes a bit
  16. Could be, but I have quite a few watches with big crowns that don't have crown guards. I've never - yet - managed to damage any of them. Still undecided about the crown cover
  17. Thanks chaps They're all pretty bloody nice. The Armida & Ventus are brass, whilst the Borealis is bronze (which is supposed to be slower to age/patinate) than brass. I'm going to let all three age naturally
  18. Welcome to the forum but no photos showing. I think you probably have to post them on another site (Imgur etc) & then post links to them or some such web based technological magic.
  19. My 3 brass/bronze microbrand divers watches - all Seiko NH35 powered & all pretty ruddy great. If I had to pick it'd probably be the Borealis Oceanaut though I'm wearing the middle one today
  20. My friend had one of those many years ago. I tried it on & I was surprised at how comfy it was to wear. Don't think I could stand it on the bracelet though & I'd have to have the strap version. Lovely - if that's the right word? - watch
  21. I only received this Ventus Mori divers watch on Thursday (that's yesterday isn't it?) from Bricey. I'm very happy with it but I do think the crown is a little on the small side. As some of you may know I have a lathe & have been making various bits & bobs for the past few months, although up till now nothing has been watch related. I've made a small brass cover for the crown. The idea being that I glue it to the existing crown in order to beef it up a bit. I hasten to add that I haven't glued anything to anything yet & I need to add some texture to the crown cover (knurling maybe or some machined grooves) - it may be that I have to make the cover again as it's too small to hold in the lathe in order to add the grooves or knurling (which I've only tried once & wasn't what you'd call a success ). Hopefully the photos will show you what I mean. Let me know what you think please
  22. I like everything about it except the bracelet (not keen on either the mesh or the taper) - what is it by the way?
  23. Madness! Sell it & buy the black dial. I'm all for a bit of modification, especially if it improves the original or makes it easier to use. You could do a tutorial on how you do it with before & after shots. Or failing that open it up & use a black sharpie to colour the hands. If it all goes wrong you could fit set of ploprof hands.....
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