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aesmith's Achievements


Collaborator (7/15)

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  1. Saw this on Ebay ... Vintage Seiko 5 Automatic 7009-3140 Watch Day Date Black face Needs Battery
  2. I've had a few goes, I'm not sure I've made a lot of progress in the "really small step" aspect. The arm is quite firmly in place so needs a reasonable push to move it at all, then it tends to move a bit further than I really wanted. However I found something that had been confusing me before, it actually takes the watch a lot longer to settle down than I thought, maybe as much as five minutes. It seems the very action of pushing on the level causes the rate to slow, and it takes a while to recover, sometimes back to exactly the same rate as before.
  3. A reference to devaluing a collectible watch by fitting non original replacement parts?
  4. Cheers. So I guess the answer from the professionals is "practice", I did actually manage to improve the beat, somewhat to my surprise. I've been using an Android app "Watch Accuracy Meter" to take spot checks before and after adjustment attempts. Initially it was showing a really clear double track, but a nudge on (2) reduced that a lot. I miss I'd saved before and after screenshots. As we are right now, the Android app says the watch is running 33 sec/day fast. On my wrist over 24 hours it's gained 22 seconds. The app isn't telling the full story, where that's different rates in different positions or whether watch runs slower when it's subject to movement I don't know. But if that relationship between app and real life holds, I guess I should be aiming for around 10 or 12 second fast on the app, so it gains a little in real life.
  5. Hi, As the subject says, I'm wondering if there are any tips from the pros on how to make really small adjustments. The photo shows what I'm working with, and as far as I can see the only option is to move (1) by pushing directly on the lever itself. The problem that I'm facing is firstly it seems to take quite a push to make it move at all, and secondly I am really worried something will slip and ding the hairspring. With care I can use the tip of a screwdriver, lay it on top of the lever so I am pushing against the brass stud, the idea being that if it slips it is more likely to go up rather than down and into the hairspring. However I'm finding the same thing each time, I press a little and nothing changes, press a little more and the lever visibly moves but it moves too far. Any tips? Thanks Tony S
  6. Here we go ... Carbon steel tweezers before, tested by dipping into the metal dust ... And cleaning the dust off, a quick twirl of the thing, then another dip. I can get them a little better, but not completely zeroed out as I can with the stainless tweezers ...
  7. I was going to post images of before and after, but it won't let me do so. Not sure why as I've posted images from Flickr before.
  8. Needs some more testing and practice I think, in particular since magnetic fields fall off really quickly with distance I suspect the movement away needs to be very slow for the first inch or so. I have one pair of tweezers which are not stainless and are very prone to magnetisation, and which I couldn't completely demagnetise, those will be the ones to test with. How are you testing for magnetism before and after? I was using metal dust picked up from under the vice in the garage but it's just occurred to me that the dust itself may be magnetic as well.
  9. The idea is to apply a reversing magnetic field, so I don't think it's the spin itself that does it, it's the fact that the tool sees the magnetic field alternating between two polarities. "Normal" demagnetiser use the mains to create a field that switches back and forth 50 times a second. To exactly replicate that with my four magnet rig I'd need to spin it at 1500 rpm, but my test twiddling with my fingers suggests it doesn't need to be that fast.
  10. Just a quick update, I was dressing the tips of a couple of screwdrivers and tweezers yesterday, and of course most became magnetised in the process. Since I'd put the cordless drill away, I tried twirling the demagnetiser between my fingers and found that worked perfectly well. I've just received my new smaller round magnets so I think when I replace my rough first draft I'll use a smaller diameter shaft specifically with handheld use in mind. Maybe six magnets, compared to the four in my first one.
  11. Alt I can't imagine ever buying a Rolex, but it's encouraging to see the big names releasing more small watches. Hopefully this idea will trickle down to more affordable makes.
  12. Judging by how hard it tugged at my tools I don't think I'd want to put a watch near to mine. Anyway I've ordered some more magnets and I'm going to build a slicker version now I know it works, with a flush face of some sort so I can start with the items right up against it if I wish. Maybe six magnets, but I also think the number might not matter, just need to spin faster if there are fewer magnets. Edit I was looking for inherently non-magnetic tweezers on Ebay, and was surprised to find some actually advertised as magnetic, so clearly it's a good thing for some people.
  13. When I first heard about them, praised as the ultimate in functional watches, I expected to see something with super legible dial as well as all the durability. In reality the design of the dials looks like appearance and novelty are the main aims, with readability pretty low down the priorities.
  14. Depends how you want to use the watch. I just wear whatever I had on before deciding to go for a ride. However once when I tried to time my pedalling I found that the second hand was really hard to read, which isn't the case with that watch in normal wear, so for me I'd be looking for readability in any sort of light.
  15. It works! I didn't make anything as posh as yours. I used 3/8" plywood, around 2 1/2" square, a 1/4" both through the middle as a mandrel (is that the right word) and four 10mm holes at 90 deg intervals around 20mm from the centre, the magnets a push fit into the holes. I say around because none of this was measured. I span it in a cordless drill and it successfully demagnetised two of my three pairs of tweezers, my springbar tool and some screwdrivers. The third pair of tweezer remained very slightly magnetic even after several goes. It's a weird feeling, the magnets tugging at the tool, and strangely it started to unscrew the tip of the springbar tool. Disadvantage of my lash up is that it's not a flat flush face like yours so the tool has to be held close but not touching. An 1/8" or so plastic face would be an improvement. How close are your magnets to the surface of your assembly?
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