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About aesmith

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    17 Jewel

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  1. And from the PC software using something similar to hold the headset mic. Figures are not consistent and take a long time to settle down, for example the beat error varies wildly from 0.0 to 4.0ms. I think it might benefit from a more rigid mounting for the microphone ...
  2. Here's the Android setup, an improvised holder for an Iphone microphone .. And the resulting trace from just resting the watch dial down on top. I found that the firmer the microphone was held, the cleaner the trace ...
  3. I found a few software products that can help check progress. On the PC there's an open source program, using the PCs sound card and microphone. On my PC the only microphone that works for me is the one on my Logitech headset, so I need to rig up a jig to hold that steady so I can lie the watch on top. It picks it up nicely if the watch rests dial down on the mic, but without a jig I have to hold in in place. Timing is wholly dependent on the clock of the sound card, so I take the absolute rate with a pinch of salt. However if my watch gains around 25 seconds a day, and the PC says somet
  4. I've always understood Chapter Ring to be the part with the hour and minute markers, whether numerals or just indices. That might be a separate part on a clock, but pretty much always part or the dial on a watch. Could you put up pictures of the dial you already have? Do you maybe mean Bezel? The part outside the dial that you rotate for timing or other purposes. If so then that would relate to the case rather than the dial. https://www.watchgecko.com/bezel-insert-for-seiko-skx007-skx009
  5. Not sure if my picture appears properly. Let's have another go from Flickr this time ...
  6. Hi, I've now got my cheap automatic, Starking AM0184 and it's running a bit fast, around +30 seconds a day. That's fine, one of the reasons for getting it was so I can tinker in a way I wouldn't with a Rolex or something. So I'd like to see if I can slow it down a bit, maybe to more like +10s a day, or really just as close as I can manage, Today I rigged up a case holder/protector so I can get the back off without damage and I've been looking at the balance to work out how to regulate. There are two levers, one has two brass studs and the hairspring runs past it, that's marked "1"
  7. Impressive, I've had quartz that was less accurate than that.
  8. Hoping for under £100. I don't think I'd get a Tissot for that unless it was on its last legs.
  9. Thanks again. I'm feeling a bit of scope creep myself, so need to keep myself in check. Fallback is that there are plenty of Seiko 5s available new for under £100. I'd prefer something more original but definitely want to pitch the price low, so it's no big loss I end up moving it on. Of if I fiddle with it and break it. Money no object, I like the Time Factors Smiths series, although I suppose I'd prefer a Swiss movement if going up in price. Something I need to bear in mind, an automatic will need servicing in due course, so getting something second hand for under a hundred, then
  10. Cheers again. I guess really the options at the bottom price are either vintage, or go a bit bigger. One of the Steeldives is 39mm, that's two mm bigger than the largest watch I regularly wear, but a bigger difference lug to lug - my biggest is 43mm, the Steeldive is 49mm. It maybe OK, but since I've never worn a large watch I simply don't know if I'll like it.
  11. Thanks for all suggestions. Where's the best place to find any of these? I see quite a few Vostok on Ebay but they seem to be almost all 40mm divers. Actually I wouldn't mind a diver, I've never had one before, but not if it's too large for me to be comfortable with.
  12. Hi, I've not had an automatic for a while, so I thought it about time to have another go. The idea being to get something cheap, see how I get on with mechanical type accuracy, with maybe a view to getting something better in the future. The obvious place to look is Seiko I think, but are there other makes worth looking at? I'm thinking something cheap enough I'm not afraid to open it up and have a go at regulating. I'd be looking for something round about 36mm, somewhere I suppose in between "dress" and "sports", although military style might be a nice change. Preference for three h
  13. Thanks everyone, the back's off now using the blade on a multi tool, the blade had enough curvature to get into the slot. No damage visible to the naked eye, or even with 5X loupe, although it's amazing how many other little dings and scratches elsewhere. No mystery about why the watch stopped either, the battery only reads 0.79V. New Renata 377 on order.
  14. Cheers. My much abused and battered Lorus needs a battery as well, so I'll have a practice on that. I'm sure I can find an old penknife to modify a little. If it needs to be sharp the cheap Ebay tool's probably no good as won't be hard enough (at a guess).
  15. Thanks. I've done something similar, and supplemented with better quality as and when. For example the generic plastic handled spring bar tool now has a genuine Bergeon fork end. The set came with a case knife, something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Watch-Opener-Knife-Back-Case-Removal-Battery-Change-Repair-Tool-RED/153387529185 However it doesn't seem to engage the slot at all on any watch I've tried. Do you think it's a matter of sharpening it until it does, then giving it a polish so it doesn't scratch? Or is this an application where a better quality tool is needed.
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