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aesmith

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Everything posted by aesmith

  1. Cheers. I've read that the Starkings are a bit of a gamble new. One person reckoned a 50% dead on arrival rate. One said avoid the white faced model (guess what colour mine is). Another guy said he's opened a few non-runners and fixed them basically by removing debris and/or moving the action by hand to free it up. And it seems that if not dead on arrival they tend to keep going. To me that's a good reason by buying nearly new, rather than new off Ali Express. Of course I don't know what the real life is likely to be. If (when) it dies of old age then I might try replacing the movement myself. Regarding the size it might be the length that makes the biggest difference. Irrespective the size hasn't stopped me wearing it every day since I got it, I just would be unlikely to buy anything else that big.
  2. You and I know that, but she's pointing to 12:00 and 02:00
  3. Well I think I can say that my "cheap automatic" experiment is going pretty well. The idea was to see if in the real world I could live with the accuracy (or lack of), whether I'd keep forgetting to put it on or wind it, and whether I'd get fed up with resetting it when I'd done so. So I bought a Starking AM0184 from forum member "al_kaholik", that's about as cheap as you expect for a nearly new watch in as far as I can see perfect condition. Got it on 25th Feb and soon found it was gaining around 30s per day. Not so good, but then I did say "something cheap enough I'm not afraid to open it up and have a go at regulating". Even so with the watch in such nice condition I dithered for a bit before biting the bullet and opening it up, then a bit more before I dared touch the insides. However once I did so I can hardly believe how well that turned out. Wearing 24/7 it now gains around 2 seconds a day, maybe 3. Leaving overnight with crown right, it loses about 5s. The overall effect was that in over three weeks it was still within a few seconds when I had to reset it for BST. I wound it once when I first got it, maybe 20 winds, but since then it's kept going on its own. The only downside is that it's 40mm which is a bit big for my taste, although more wearable than I thought it would be at that size. However it's given me the bug for automatics, and I'm on the lookout for something more my size, and with the confidence to spend a bit more. I really like the Timefactors 36mm Smiths, but they're impossible to buy new and I'm not paying twice the price to get one used off Ebay.
  4. She thinks the clocks go forward by two hours?
  5. So it's now two weeks since I stopped fiddling with the regulation, and left the watch to run. It gains a few seconds a day if worn 24/7, and loses a little if left overnight in the 12 up position. Overall, two weeks after setting the time as carefully as I could, it's now around 1 second fast. I think I count that as a success for the moment, we'll see how long it stays that way.
  6. The battery will die in due course whether he watch is running or not and will be busy leaking into the works. I suppose if the watch was being stored long enough to run the battery down, you'd be better removing it. Fit a new, in date, battery when you use the watch.
  7. It's worth a bit of trial and error with the microphone. For example the cleanest trace that got at first was with the wood block clamped in the vice, then in the house the best was resting the wooden block on a cushion, then placing the watch dial down on top. Anyway today's time check shows only a couple of seconds gain since yesterday afternoon, so I've taken the trouble to set the actual time, and will monitor over a few days to see. However I would still be interested in comments from watchmakers about the actual best way to move that adjuster. Is there some sort of tool used in the trade that grips or fits over the lever?
  8. Cheers. I think I've spent enough time fiddling with microphones and software, so can't really put off actually trying to adjust the watch for much longer. So here's my first attempt. I have to say the prodding gently the arm didn't particularly want to move, then moved what seemed like a long way. Or it looked a long way at 2.5x magnification. Anyway here's the Android trace, but I will monitor for a few days to see if I believe it ..
  9. And from the PC software using something similar to hold the headset mic. Figures are not consistent and take a long time to settle down, for example the beat error varies wildly from 0.0 to 4.0ms. I think it might benefit from a more rigid mounting for the microphone ...
  10. Here's the Android setup, an improvised holder for an Iphone microphone .. And the resulting trace from just resting the watch dial down on top. I found that the firmer the microphone was held, the cleaner the trace ...
  11. I found a few software products that can help check progress. On the PC there's an open source program, using the PCs sound card and microphone. On my PC the only microphone that works for me is the one on my Logitech headset, so I need to rig up a jig to hold that steady so I can lie the watch on top. It picks it up nicely if the watch rests dial down on the mic, but without a jig I have to hold in in place. Timing is wholly dependent on the clock of the sound card, so I take the absolute rate with a pinch of salt. However if my watch gains around 25 seconds a day, and the PC says something similar then it's close enough. There's a calibration correction available. At least it can give instantaneous feedback after an attempt at moving the regulator https://tg.ciovil.li/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/open-source-timing-software.2542874/ Also a couple of apps for Android, one called Watch Accuracy Meter seems to work, although the user interface is weird. And one called Tickoprint that worked once for me, and never again.
  12. I've always understood Chapter Ring to be the part with the hour and minute markers, whether numerals or just indices. That might be a separate part on a clock, but pretty much always part or the dial on a watch. Could you put up pictures of the dial you already have? Do you maybe mean Bezel? The part outside the dial that you rotate for timing or other purposes. If so then that would relate to the case rather than the dial. https://www.watchgecko.com/bezel-insert-for-seiko-skx007-skx009
  13. Not sure if my picture appears properly. Let's have another go from Flickr this time ...
  14. Hi, I've now got my cheap automatic, Starking AM0184 and it's running a bit fast, around +30 seconds a day. That's fine, one of the reasons for getting it was so I can tinker in a way I wouldn't with a Rolex or something. So I'd like to see if I can slow it down a bit, maybe to more like +10s a day, or really just as close as I can manage, Today I rigged up a case holder/protector so I can get the back off without damage and I've been looking at the balance to work out how to regulate. There are two levers, one has two brass studs and the hairspring runs past it, that's marked "1" in my photo. The other has what looks like a screw and collet and is at the end of the hairspring, marked "2". I am pretty sure that "1" is the correct one to regulate, and "2" to set the beat. So I don't want to move "2". So my questions .. (a) Does the panel think I've identified the parts correctly? (b) Assuming I have, any suggestions for how to move "1" a small controlled distance? To slow down I need to move it anticlockwise (correct?) but of course if I overshoot I'll need to move it in the other direction anyway. I am not sure whether the slot in the middle is directly connected, or whether that's just part of the shock protection and jewel location. And in any case it's not completely clear that I could use that slot without doing damage. So I might want to move the lever directly, maybe tapping it with a cocktail stick or similar. Or go for broke and rig up something with a screw thread to push the end of the lever. I'm dreading hitting the hairspring, which would steer me towards something that can be put in place and then made to push, rather than tapping. But I'm hoping there's a watchmaker's secret to doing this. By the way there's no hurry. My goal today was just to get the back off and have a look, the watch is back together and I'm going to wear it a few more days anyway to confirm that the rate is consistent. Any comments welcome. Tony S
  15. Impressive, I've had quartz that was less accurate than that.
  16. Hoping for under £100. I don't think I'd get a Tissot for that unless it was on its last legs.
  17. Thanks again. I'm feeling a bit of scope creep myself, so need to keep myself in check. Fallback is that there are plenty of Seiko 5s available new for under £100. I'd prefer something more original but definitely want to pitch the price low, so it's no big loss I end up moving it on. Of if I fiddle with it and break it. Money no object, I like the Time Factors Smiths series, although I suppose I'd prefer a Swiss movement if going up in price. Something I need to bear in mind, an automatic will need servicing in due course, so getting something second hand for under a hundred, then needing to pay twice that to get it serviced in a years time doesn't sound so clever. I guess that's another argument for new Seiko or similar, put's that problem off for a few years.
  18. Cheers again. I guess really the options at the bottom price are either vintage, or go a bit bigger. One of the Steeldives is 39mm, that's two mm bigger than the largest watch I regularly wear, but a bigger difference lug to lug - my biggest is 43mm, the Steeldive is 49mm. It maybe OK, but since I've never worn a large watch I simply don't know if I'll like it.
  19. Thanks for all suggestions. Where's the best place to find any of these? I see quite a few Vostok on Ebay but they seem to be almost all 40mm divers. Actually I wouldn't mind a diver, I've never had one before, but not if it's too large for me to be comfortable with.
  20. Hi, I've not had an automatic for a while, so I thought it about time to have another go. The idea being to get something cheap, see how I get on with mechanical type accuracy, with maybe a view to getting something better in the future. The obvious place to look is Seiko I think, but are there other makes worth looking at? I'm thinking something cheap enough I'm not afraid to open it up and have a go at regulating. I'd be looking for something round about 36mm, somewhere I suppose in between "dress" and "sports", although military style might be a nice change. Preference for three hands, centre seconds. I dislike day or date, but accept that at the bottom end of the market that's pretty much universal. Rummaging around it looks like I should maybe be checking out Seiko, Orient, Citizen, are there any others? I wouldn't want anything that's actually a fake, but not averse to Chinese as long as it's not pretending to be something it isn't. Any suggestions? Thanks, Tony S
  21. Thanks everyone, the back's off now using the blade on a multi tool, the blade had enough curvature to get into the slot. No damage visible to the naked eye, or even with 5X loupe, although it's amazing how many other little dings and scratches elsewhere. No mystery about why the watch stopped either, the battery only reads 0.79V. New Renata 377 on order.
  22. Cheers. My much abused and battered Lorus needs a battery as well, so I'll have a practice on that. I'm sure I can find an old penknife to modify a little. If it needs to be sharp the cheap Ebay tool's probably no good as won't be hard enough (at a guess).
  23. Thanks. I've done something similar, and supplemented with better quality as and when. For example the generic plastic handled spring bar tool now has a genuine Bergeon fork end. The set came with a case knife, something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Watch-Opener-Knife-Back-Case-Removal-Battery-Change-Repair-Tool-RED/153387529185 However it doesn't seem to engage the slot at all on any watch I've tried. Do you think it's a matter of sharpening it until it does, then giving it a polish so it doesn't scratch? Or is this an application where a better quality tool is needed.
  24. Cheers. I need to check on the diameters as well, I presume I want the fattest that will fit. This is what some of the existing bars look like, with a sort of intermediate shoulder that the springbar tool can engage with. Not sure if that one got bent in service, or by me taking it out. .
  25. Hi, Where's the best place to pick up decent quality spring bars? I'd like some spares, mainly for watches with bracelets rather than straps. I've bought off Ebay before, trying to make sure the seller is a watch person not just someone random. What surprised me is that Cousins seems to only have really cheap bars, £0.95 for 20 for example. Am I worrying too much, and should I just I just get the correct sizes from Cousins? Thanks, Tony S
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