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Everything posted by aesmith

  1. Hi, I suspect that my newly acquire Seiko may be running too fast for my liking, so unless it settles down to a more reasonable speed I intend to have a go at regulating it. I've read a bit on the Internet on the subject, and there are a couple of areas of concern.. Firstly it seems like its quite difficult to make very small movements of the adjuster. Are there any tips for how to make the required very small movements? I was thinking to try just very light taps to the side, using a wooden peg. From what I read if you see the thing move then its probably gone too far. Secondly one of the Seiko documents said that you must not move the regulator clockwise, as this would damage the hairspring. Can that really be correct? If so then I'm goosed because it would mean you're OK to speed the timing up, but not allowed to slow it down. I'm not going to do anything right away, firstly because I need to wear the watch for a while before I'll be certain how its behaving, but also because I need to make or buy a jig to unscrew the back. Cheers, Tony S
  2. Thanks for that. Our old car had leather upholstery, assuming I can find the stuff I think I have both cleaner and conditioner.
  3. When they weren't doing deliveries to our home (because of "bad weather" that doesn't stop us collecting from the Post Office, but stops them doing the same journey in the opposite direction) we were never asked for any identification or anything to collect the mail. We just gave surname and the address, and the stuff was handed over.
  4. I'm starting to really like pointed hands, like some current Omegas and older Seikos .. where the hand just forms a straight taper down to a point.
  5. Hi, I've not had a watch on leather for as long as I can remember, but at the moment my new-to-me watch is on a pretty nice and nearly new black leather strap. When I did have leather straps, I remember them getting smelly "doggy" and dirty. What's the best way to treat the strap, and keep it looking feeling and smelling new? Thanks, Tony S
  6. I'd be up for one if they made something plain and smaller.
  7. You guys, now you've got me wanting a watch with a bezel. Resist .... resist.
  8. Cheers. I've just popped a post in the "wanted" section MY POST. I wasn't banking on anyone having anything, so interested to know what supplier(s) would be recommended. Thanks, Tony S
  9. Hi, As per the subject I've just acquired a modern(ish) Seiko 5, not a diver. I'd like to put it on a stainless steel bracelet but I'm not sure the best place to go looking. I'm not wanting to pay too much, folded links would be fine. Annoyingly its 19mm between the lugs, but I guess I'd go for 20mm and adjust to fit. I'm not specially bothered about curved ends to try and mimic an integral bracelet. Where would you guys go looking? Thanks, Tony S
  10. Date and day/date displays that can't be relied on.
  11. Can an Authorised Dealer not sell online. Why not check on Omega's web site, and see if they're listed?
  12. Good question. I assumed it was the same as mine, and didn't spot the flats. Having said that, since I don't think I'll be working on anything other than my own clock, I think I would make something bespoke to fit. By the way Meadows & Passmore web site identifies it as the K and O "Minature" movement (as opposed to Midget) so I now have the data sheet with settings etc should the need arise.
  13. Thanks for all the comments. The more technical the better, even if I can't follow then deep detail can sometimes warn that I might get out of my depth. I hope the "270 degrees at the pendulum, either side" isn't applicable in all cases, as our clock has never had that much movement. More like 270 deg in total, 135 to each side. Once running it gradually builds up to about 7/8 of a turn, which is easy enough to sight by eye. It's not so easy to eyeball the overshoot at each end, I was placing markers under the weights marking the tick and judging how much further it continues. It might be easier to time it, time from the tick to the bob passing the mark on the way back. It's been running since this time yesterday, and keeping time (actually no detectable error, and I set it quite exactly). The beat isn't quite right but it's now very close so I feel inclined to leave it alone. I will need that beat adjusting tool, or something functionally similar to get it closer. One thing I didn't do was test it wound just a couple of turns - I'll have to wait 400 days to do that test now! I see that the repair book by de Carle seems to be readily available second hand so I might keep my eyes open for a copy. Fingers crossed it looks like the beast may be running now.
  14. Does that not depend on the exact type of bracelet? For example on my Tissot I pressed out the removable bracelet pins using a modified sewing machine needle (the end ground off and smoothed). Together with normal workshop tools the job was perfectly straightforward, and I can assure you that there was no marking of the parts either on removal or reassembly.
  15. Looks like oak of some sort, and what's the dark wood? Iroko? Its a nice use for small pieces of wood.
  16. Cheers. I'm reasonably confident. I remember when we first brought it home it took a few days to settle down. I've no reason to think anything's out of kilter other than possibly the lubrication being a bit older and stickier.
  17. Cheers, I hope its not quite as bad as that. Angular difference is actually quite small, although I appreciate that any inefficiency is likely to me enough to sap power and stop the movement. The clock was overhauled before we got it, and it was running fine up to the time we packed it when we moved house. What sort of tool would be used to move the block that you refer to? There doesn't seem to be anything that a tool would hold onto, there's just the block with the clamping screw through it. This is the best I managed for a photo of the arrangement. The other side of the block just has the end of the screw visible but not really protruding beyond the surface. Moving the screw on top does rotate the block without loosening it, but its very hard to make a small movement. (photo taken with the plastic guard removed) Thanks for the comments.
  18. Any differences in the movement type or quality?
  19. Hi, Here is our 400 day clock, it's a small Kieninger & Obergfell "Kundo" model, made in West Germany so I'm guessing '50s or '60s. It hasn't been in service for a couple of years and now it's not very keen to keep going again. I believe it's out of beat, because if you set it running with not quite enough amplitude to run it will tick in one direction and not the other. Also when running it overshoots more in one direction that the other. Do the experts agree with the diagnosis? Assuming you do, any tips for setting it. There's an adjustment to rotate the whole torsion assembly which will make that adjustment, but its quite difficult to make a small change. I tried to take a picture of the escapement which looks like it uses metal blocks where a watch would have jewels. Any comments or suggestions welcome, Tony S
  20. I hate returning dud stuff from Ebay, so often it gets "lost in the post" and you're hung out with nothing. When you get it, put in a claim that its faked and illegal, and that its been confiscated by Omega so you can't return it. I think I remember seeing something on Ebay where you're allowed (required?) to destroy fake merchandise and are entitled to refund without return. Open a case anyway (always assuming it truly isn't genuine) Some useful Ebay policies here http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/policies/replica-counterfeit.html http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/policies/authenticity-disclaimers.html Basically if it says Omega he's not allowed to sell it if its not genuine, and the second doc says that he can't get around it by disclaiming knowledge of its authenticity or otherwise.
  21. Hi, I see that generally people seem to recommend Royal Mail Special Delivery. Has anyone experienced Royal Mail trying to dispute a claim for a watch send by normal post? As far as I can see their exclusion for watches would not apply to most normal watches, certainly stainless steel. It might be a matter for dispute whether Titanium counts as a precious metal, I would have said not. Royal Mail definition of valuables as published is .. Which should mean that normal compensation services should be OK.
  22. How often do they need to pick up the signal before they start to drift? I'm assuming its a quartz movement that resets itself, so should be OK at least for a few weeks out of area.
  23. How about a vintage watch from either her birth year, or from when you got married?
  24. As it happens I was really tempted to bid on this, for nostalgic reasons as it is almost identical my everyday watch which I used from 1980 until it was lost in 2007 ...
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