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Everything posted by aesmith

  1. Seriously, what areas are Rolex higher quality than Omega? Not a Troll, I've often wondered what that price difference pays for right across the spectrum of watches. Although I must say I'm a bit surprised that an Omega is looked down on as a cheap alternative.
  2. What size was the "mid"? I'm assuming that full size is the 45mm that's mentioned elsewhere.
  3. I should add, its a small watch only 32mm across the case (exc crown) so maybe a small movement?
  4. Thanks. I certainly looks like the picture I've found of the Miyota 8215. I'm really pretty convinced its four beats per second, from watching the second hand movement. I suppose it could be 8, and I'm only seeing every other one, but I really can't see 6 (or 3) steps. Were there any Miyotas with 14400 beats? Regarding hand-winding, there's no ratchet sound when I turn the crown backwards and it doesn't feel like its winding when I turn it forwards. There's a faint squeeky noise which I guess could be it turning through a seal (its not a screw-down crown). I guess I should let it run down, and see it if really does wind up.
  5. Hi, My "new second-hand" automatic has a Miyota movement, partially visible through the glass back. It's marked Miyota, 21 jewels, "Unadjusted" but with no reference number. The watch has full length second hand and date but not day. I can't actually tell if its hand winding, because the watch started running as soon as I handled it. I think it beats 4 times per second, certainly under a lens the second hand looks like it moves four steps to a second. Any ideas what movement this would be? Thanks, Tony S
  6. That would be so close to my choice, and I'm only a couple of years out as well. My ideal would have pointy hands (not sure what the correct term is), indices rather than numbers, no day or date display, and I wouldn't necessarily hold out for gold hands and markers.
  7. Funny thread. I can't see anyone thinking that an Omega won't be a good watch. I'd quite like to own one, but probably wouldn't wear it much. By the way, why did Bond jump ship from Rolex?
  8. Thanks for the comments. I generally use the GMT website to set a watch. We have a radio controlled clock in the living room, but although I assume its accurate is is not precise because it only moves the minute hand every few seconds and there's a bit of play in the mechanism as as well. I've just picked up a cheapish second hand automatic, so far it looks like it might gain a few seconds a day but fingers crossed it should be close enough that I only need set it once a week. The second hand doesn't stop, so I can't set it spot on.
  9. You got me all excited for a moment, but I don't think I could get on with the styling, and certainly couldn't live with the size. What a shame, as I don't suppose the movement actually requires such big cases.
  10. Cheers. I think my beef with accuracy is just that I think a quartz watch ought to be dead accurate. Of course resetting my one that runs slow is a pain in the neck, resetting one that's fast is dead easy. I like my watch to be within a minute, and I suppose the ideal would be to only have to set it at the GMT/BST changeover. Unfortunately even expensive makes don't guarantee better than 20 seconds a month (eg Omega -15 to +21 sec per month), which would be two minutes error over that time. I'm going to try living with an automatic, and I'm hoping if I set it on a Monday it'll not need resetting during the week.
  11. Hi, I just wondered how everyone else does this. I've become a bit disillusioned with quartz recently, given that nobody will guarantee better than 20 sec a month or so, and my regular watch runs variably slow which is a pain to reset (easy if its a little fast, just stop it for a few seconds). Anyway for fans of mechanical watches, I guess you reset them pretty often, or do you just accept that they're going to be a minute or so out. I'd just be interested in opinions. Thanks, Tony S
  12. What model Seiko 5 is that, please?
  13. Cheers, I measured the bracelet+watch combination by popping out one of the pins and laying it flat. From one end, to the point where it could connect was just under 200mm, measuring round my wrist fairly snugly comes out around 175mm or maybe a bit more. I'm thinking of adverts for second-hand watches where for example the bracelet has been shortened. I guess I should just ask the seller to measure it and compare with my 200mm.
  14. Hi, A lot of second-hand watches specify the maximum size that the bracelet can fit, I've never had an issue with new and always remove some links. It suddenly occurred to me that I should check what size I actually need rather than assume that anything is bound to be big enough. Should I be measuring round my wrist, or should I measure the length of the bracelet that I actually find comfortable? The two measurements come out about an inch different. Sorry for a possibly idiotic question, but I don't want to buy a watch and find it doesn't fit. Thanks, Tony S
  15. Thanks, I thought it might have been something I'd dreamed up. I think its probably best to leave the watch stopped until I can get it serviced, I've already made contact with Steve at Ryte Time.
  16. Hi, This refers to an old mechanical watch, unused for a long time. Running for a few days it seemed to be steadily running a few minutes a day fast. Now it seems to be running faster still. I vaguely remember that sticky oil can make a watch run fast. That's counter-intuitive, but is that correct? I can't remember where I read it. If it is the case then I guess there's no point in messing around trying to regulate it until it's been cleaned and relubricated. Thanks, Tony S
  17. That's a good point, I've always asked them for the width of the case, not just the dial but not including the crown.
  18. I was really thinking about both, but the discrepancies are more blatant with new models sold by professional dealers, they really should know better. Second hand I have for example seen watches referred to or marked on the back as 7009-3100 (so should be the same, yes?) but with very different sizes claimed. Why do I care, its just that I don't like over large watches. My normal watch is 34mm, which is OK, but my "emergency" Lorus is 37mm and I find that a little too bulky. In any case, what's the point of making them bigger? Generally the dial is the same size and the extra bulk is just metal around the sides serving no purpose at all. (I'm speaking solely about the Seiko 5s here, not their divers or military or other things that have a bigger dial as well).
  19. Cheers. My original question was badly worded, I can see. I understand that the different models are likely to be different sizes. What I meant to say was that I'm finding that one dealer might say a particular model is 34mm, but another says the same model is 40mm. With a another current model, one dealer says 31mm and another 38mm! I thought it might help to have some real examples, so that if those particular models come up then I'll know their sizes.
  20. Cheers. You don't know what model that is do you?
  21. Hi, I'm having trouble getting straight answers about the sizes of watches offered for sale both new and second hand. Even current models, some dealers say its 34mm wide, others say the exact same model is 40mm! I was hoping that some members here could let me know what size their Seiko 5s are (and the model of course) then if I see that model offered, I'll know what size its going to actually be. Does this make any sense? Thanks, Tony S
  22. Thanks. They don't actually say its an ETA movement in the 44/45, or that it has hacking seconds. Still hoping for some owners' feedback ...
  23. How would this work anyway? Surely just moving the watch up and down without rocking it won't wind it. From the sublime to the ridiculous, my other half has two automatic incubators with egg turning mechanisms. I wonder if that would work. Might be too slow.
  24. Hi, I'm not having much joy finding a second-hand automatic, so thinking about new options. The RLT 45 could fit the bill (although I'd actually prefer indices rather than figures on the dial, but maybe one can't have everything in life), so I was wondering how people have found it. I assume the 44 is effectively the same but with a white face. Is it an ETA movement? Hacking second hand? (I assume the "quick set date" is just an error on the web site, and I'm quite happy without) Thanks, Tony S
  25. I think it would be Seiko for me, for some reason they brand doesn't give me a buzz. Very unfair as Seiko was my main watch for around 25 years, repaired several times and finally lost. I'd still be wearing it if I hadn't lost it. Its just an illogical thing. Tissot, for different reasons. I like the brand, I like the styles and they have enough quality to not be run of the mill. So I should like them and they should be near top of my list. Unfortunately my experience with their after sales means I could never buy another new one. Rolex is the opposite, I always thought I disliked them as being over bearing. I was quite surprised to find that even as recently as the '80s they were making some quite classy watches. I'd be very happy with some that I've seen.
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