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aesmith

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  1. The rules and limits are set out clearly enough here, note that the limits differ for "Gifts" and the threshold for import duty is higher than for VAT, so you may be charged VAT but not duty. HMRC Web Page It all depends on the value declared by the seller. If the seller happens to put too low a value then I can't see how they could really blame the buyer, unless the buyer had instructed him to do so of course. Legally I think you are liable for that declaration.
  2. The seller appears to have cancelled the only bid. What's interesting is that in doing so it looks like it discloses that bidders maximum, I thought Ebay never disclosed that.
  3. Thanks. Looking at new watches and how big they seem to be getting, I was wondering whether I was the only person to like or even prefer a smaller watch.
  4. By the way, is the size usually taken to mean the size of the case, rather than the width of the dial?
  5. Hi, I suppose the title of the thread gives it away. Even I'm starting to think of a 30-35mm dial as being "smaller" now that so many makers are going up in size. Anyway what I meant to ask was how many (or how few!) actually prefer these smaller sizes. I assume it must be a minority, but personally I find a large watch inconvenient to wear, and can't really see the benefit either. Tony S
  6. The case, dial and movement (its an ETA 955.112 movement with 7 jewels). As for the hands and bracelet, only Roy would know? Cheers. If I read it right then the "Made in England" RLT watches all use Swiss movements, and I wasn't clear why this one should be "Swiss Made" where the others aren't.
  7. How much does Emerald add to the price, compared to Mineral? Just wondering why the RLT watches have mineral. Unless I've missed it I haven't see anyone citing advantages for mineral .. seems to be either emerald or acrylic are preferred. Tony S
  8. That's quite big at 40mm. What size was the orginal do you know?
  9. I have one that's sort of similar varying from spot at 2, to just about 1/2 between the ticks at 10. I would need to draw it out to get my head round it. Could it be that the dial isn't concentric? But I think that would give two areas where it was spot on, one where it leads and one where it lags.
  10. In no particular order .. looks .. comfort and convenience when worn .. brand .. function .. price. If I was concerned only with function, I'd be wearing my £14.95 Lorus "emergency watch" which keeps time much better than my normal Tissot.
  11. Don't shoot me for asking please, if it turns out this has been done to death, but what does "Swiss Made" mean in this context? Thanks, Tony S
  12. Hi, As the subject really, I just wondered whether anyone used a metal strap on an RLT6 or 37. I much prefer metal straps, but I'm not sure whether it would look right on these watches. It'd be great to see pictures. Thanks, Tony S
  13. Hi, I quite like the looks of the military styled watches, but haven't seen one in the flesh. Could anyone give the dimensions, in particular the thickness. Tony S
  14. Was it serviced? That's right. It also got some unspecified "corrective action" under warranty from the service. Three weeks since its return it's only 1 second out.
  15. Cheers. I had a touching image of a specialist putting the final adjustments in place on my watch before sending it off. Its certainly keeping much better time than before (touch wood), but it sound like that's just luck.
  16. Glad you got a good outcome, hope you're watch is running nicely now. Its interesting about the different service centres. Mine went for its service at Oldham (not Oldbury which was just my mistake) and I guess that's who you dealt with since its a Manchester phone number. That's the published service centre for Tissot. When the watch failed immediately after the service I was told to send it to Southampton (well Easteigh actually, but its an SO postcode and they referred to it as Southampton) and I'm told that's where they service Omega. Its certainly called "Omega House" Throughout, it was always customer service in Southampton that I spoke to, so my impression was that the head honchos and top technicians were all in Southampton. TonyS
  17. Hi, As the subject, I just wondered whether quartz movements have any adjustment for timekeeping, or do you just "get what you get"? I assume the quartz crystal sets the fundamental frequency, but not sure whether this can be fine tuned. Thanks, Tony S
  18. A sore point with me. I sent my Tissot to them when it needed a new battery, I thought it worthwhile to get the proper people to check and reseal it, although I was not aware of any issue other than the battery. According to them it needed a full service which set me back just under seventy quid (for a watch that sells for not much over a hundred. What really hacked me off was that it didn't work after the service, and had to be sent back three more times before it was fixed. Is yours going Oldbury or Southampton? Tony S
  19. I don't specially like small dials, but I like the watch thin front-to-back.
  20. Don't get me wrong, I understand the appeal of mechanical stuff. I have an heirloom mechanical watch that I'm hoping to get into a usable condition. (See my other thread) http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=45291 I also have a 400 day clock that (alas) is still packed since we moved until I sort out a stable shelf for it. Thanks for all the comments, Tony S
  21. Its on my shortlist. Glad to hear you're delighted with yours. How does 12 sec per day rate in the mechanical world? I've kind of got used to quartz where you only have to check or reset at the GMT/BST changeovers. Best wishes with your new watch, Tony S
  22. Haggis, have you got your watch? What do you think of it? Thanks, Tony S
  23. Hi, I have the watch that belonged to my wife's grandfather. Its marked "Rolex Oyster" on the dial, but "Oyster Watch Company" on the inside. Its been lying around for goodness knows how long unused, and I'd like to get it to a usable state. I could do with some advice on the following ... (1) The crystal needs to be replaced. It appears to be plastic (which seems really naff) and it has some cracking and crazing. (2) The watch runs, but do I risk harming it by doing so? Would it be advisable to have it cleaned and lubricated first. (3) Once its running, is there any general advice on getting it running to the correct time? There's what looks like a straightforward rate adjustment, but I'm sure there must be a best practice to avoid either chasing around. Replacing the glass isn't something I'd want to try myself, so can you make any recommendations as to someone I could send the watch to for them to do the work? I may find a local watch repairer, but I think the guys I dealt with before are not around any more. The cracking and crazing is all too clear in this picture .. Any idea on the age? Or any other background information would be welcome. I can post more photos if need be. Thanks, Tony S
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