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aesmith

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Posts posted by aesmith

  1. I've had a few goes, I'm not sure I've made a lot of progress in the "really small step" aspect. The arm is quite firmly in place so needs a reasonable push to move it at all, then it tends to move a bit further than I really wanted.  However I found something that had been confusing me before, it actually takes the watch a lot longer to settle down than I thought, maybe as much as five minutes.  It seems the very action of pushing on the level causes the rate to slow, and it takes a while to recover, sometimes back to exactly the same rate as before.

  2. 5 hours ago, yokel said:

    --  Apparently, if the watch is "worth less" after the service (for which you have paid) than it was before, it's not their fault. It's clearly your own fault for buying the damned thing in the first place

    A reference to devaluing a collectible watch by fitting non original replacement parts?

  3. Cheers.  So I guess the answer from the professionals is "practice",  I did actually manage to improve the beat, somewhat to my surprise.  I've been using an Android app "Watch Accuracy Meter" to take spot checks before and after adjustment attempts. Initially it was showing a really clear double track, but a nudge on (2) reduced that a lot.  I miss I'd saved before and after screenshots.  As we are right now, the Android app says the watch is running 33 sec/day fast.  On my wrist over 24 hours it's gained 22 seconds.  The app isn't telling the full story, where that's different rates in different positions or whether watch runs slower when it's subject to movement I don't know.  But if that relationship between app and real life holds, I guess I should be aiming for around 10 or 12 second fast on the app, so it gains a little in real life.

    • Like 1
  4. Hi,

    As the subject says, I'm wondering if there are any tips from the pros on how to make really small adjustments.  The photo shows what I'm working with, and as far as I can see the only option is to move (1) by pushing directly on the lever itself.  The problem that I'm facing is firstly it seems to take quite a push to make it move at all, and secondly I am really worried something will slip and ding the hairspring. With care I can use the tip of a screwdriver, lay it on top of the lever so I am pushing against the brass stud, the idea being that if it slips it is more likely to go up rather than down and into the hairspring.  However I'm finding the same thing each time, I press a little and nothing changes, press a little more and the lever visibly moves but it moves too far.   Any tips?

    Thanks Tony S

    siFFwS6.jpg

     

  5. 24 minutes ago, nursegladys said:

    @aesmith i think a power drill to spin it, whilst holding and drawing away with the tool is sufficient, not sure how long one would have to spin it by hand for it to work?

    Needs some more testing and practice I think, in particular since magnetic fields fall off really quickly with distance I suspect the movement away needs to be very slow for the first inch or so.  I have one pair of tweezers which are not stainless and are very prone to magnetisation, and which I couldn't completely demagnetise, those will be the ones to test with.

    How are you testing for magnetism before and after?  I was using metal dust picked up from under the vice in the garage but it's just occurred to me that the dust itself may be magnetic as well.

  6. The idea is to apply a reversing magnetic field, so I don't think it's the spin itself that does it, it's the fact that the tool sees the magnetic field alternating between two polarities.  "Normal" demagnetiser use the mains to create a field that switches back and forth 50 times a second.  To exactly replicate that with my four magnet rig I'd need to spin it at 1500 rpm, but my test twiddling with my fingers suggests it doesn't need to be that fast.

  7. Just a quick update, I was dressing the tips of a couple of screwdrivers and tweezers yesterday, and of course most became magnetised in the process.  Since I'd put the cordless drill away, I tried twirling the demagnetiser between my fingers and found that worked perfectly well.  I've just received my new smaller round magnets so I think when I replace my rough first draft I'll use a smaller diameter shaft specifically with handheld use in mind.  Maybe six magnets, compared to the four in my first one.

  8. 17 hours ago, nursegladys said:

    I tried with my mini seiko diver (i believe it may be magnetised as a cause of its wild time keeping).

    Judging by how hard it tugged at my tools I don't think I'd want to put a watch near to mine.  Anyway I've ordered some more magnets and I'm going to build a slicker version now I know it works, with a flush face of some sort so I can start with the items right up against it if I wish.   Maybe six magnets, but I also think the number might not matter, just need to spin faster if there are fewer magnets.

    Edit I was looking for inherently non-magnetic tweezers on Ebay, and was surprised to find some actually advertised as magnetic, so clearly it's a good thing for some people.

    • Like 1
  9. When I first heard about them, praised as the ultimate in functional watches, I expected to see something with super legible dial as well as all the durability.  In reality the design of the dials looks like appearance and novelty are the main aims, with readability pretty low down the priorities.

    • Like 1
  10. Depends how you want to use the watch.  I just wear whatever I had on before deciding to go for a ride.  However once when I tried to time my pedalling I found that the second hand was really hard to read, which isn't the case with that watch in normal wear, so for me I'd be looking for readability in any sort of light.

    • Like 1
  11. It works!  I didn't make anything as posh as yours. I used 3/8" plywood, around 2 1/2" square, a 1/4" both through the middle as a mandrel (is that the right word) and four 10mm holes at 90 deg intervals around 20mm from the centre, the magnets a push fit into the holes.  I say around because none of this was measured.  I span it in a cordless drill and it successfully demagnetised two of my three pairs of tweezers, my springbar tool and some screwdrivers.  The third pair of tweezer remained very slightly magnetic even after several goes.

    It's a weird feeling, the magnets tugging at the tool, and strangely it started to unscrew the tip of the springbar tool.

    Disadvantage of my lash up is that it's not a flat flush face like yours so the tool has to be held close but not touching.  An 1/8" or so plastic face would be an improvement.

    How close are your magnets to the surface of your assembly?

  12. Hi,

    I found to my dismay that it seems all my small tools have become magnetised for some unknown reason.  I see you can get quite cheap things that claim to demagnetise, looking like plastic blocks with slots, like this ...

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Magnetiser-Demagnetiser-Tool-Mini-Toolbox-Essential-Screws-Screwdriver-Repair/114283439821?hash=item1a9bd2e6cd:g:OnQAAOSwGQlfAMjj

    Is anything like that any use?  If not then what would be recommended, to demagnetise small tools not necessarily anything you'd put a watch anywhere near?

    Thanks, TS

  13. Those two photos show why I don't like big watches.  I like them to be covered by my cuffs except when I'm actually reading them.  My watches get a hard enough time as it is, if exposed all the time like that they'd be dinged to hell in no time.

  14. I guess the bezel is a cool gadget.  I did wonder why divers wouldn't want it numbered the other way round, as a count-down.  Set maximum dive time on the bezel against the minute hand, then when the minute hand reads zero on the bezel your time is up.  Rather than counting up and then wondering "well it's showing I've been down for 20 minutes, but I can't remember if I worked out max time as 20 or 25 minutes"

    • Like 1
  15. There's also a couple of PC applications.  "Tg – the open source timegrapher" https://tg.ciovil.li/  I've had mixed results from this, not very clear traces at all.  I'm not sure if that was because it's a cheap watch or because the microphone isn't sensitive enough.  Certainly the microphone is not sensitive, if I record with Audicity I can barely see the trace.  So I think I'd need to make a suitable microphone to give it a good chance.

    Discussion about this software on another forum if I'm allowed to link ... https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/open-source-timing-software.2542874/

    The other one is Watch O Scope http://www.watchoscope.com/  The free version will only analyse a recorded trace, which why I was trying Audacity, but I guess it would have the issue with my microphone.

    Both the PC applications are supposed to show beat error and amplitude as well as rate,

  16. Hi,

    Looking at cheap watches it strikes me how many are diver style.  It seems like nearly 90%.  That got me wondering what's behind the popularity, I assume they're not all bought by people who actually dive with them.  Is it the bezel, once people have owned one they find the bezel too useful to do without?  (That would be a bit like me with knives, I never thought about one handed opening and didn't like the idea of a pocket clip, but since I tried my Spyderco I'd be reluctant to do without either).  Or is it the look that people love?  From my point of view the downside to diver mania is size.  Realistically the bezel must add 5 or 6mm to the diameter if the dial isn't to be really small, and they seem to be thicker as well.  If it wasn't for size I'd be tempted to try one and see if it grew on me.

    Tony S

  17. On 04/04/2021 at 00:06, JayDeep said:

    It's the 36mm thing that makes this so difficult. I cannot think of a single men's watch that small.

    There are some but I've not found any in what I consider my current price range.  One discontinues model I've been keeping 1/2 an eye out for is Tissot PR50.  I have the quartz/titanium version but they made an automatic, I think with 2824 movement.  However Longines, Tudor etc are not the price range I'm considering at the moment.

    2 hours ago, james brodie said:

    Invicta have cracking reliable movement and look the business. Get yourself the Rolex Submariner homage for around 65 quid at Creation with the discount voucher

    They look amazing value, but 42mm diameter and 13.5mm thick is bigger than I want to wear. 

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