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Roger the Dodger

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Everything posted by Roger the Dodger

  1. Hi, Steve...welcome back! Is the Waltham still going strong?
  2. Hi, and welcome...the 'for the price of a few cups of coffee' made me smile...
  3. Yep...made it all myself. The gallows brackets provide stability and prevent the structure moving either sideways or backwards and forwards. They are just pieces of 6"x2" cut on a chopsaw with 45o angles on each end. (You could use 4"x2" if you don't want the curly edge...the wider wood I used allows for the curly edge, but still retains a good width) They need to be long enough to provide stability, but not so long as to be obtrusive...ie you hit your head on them. To give them a bit of a decorative look, I traced a curly bracket design ( }) on the lower edge, cut with a jigsaw then used a router with an ogee cutter to form a smooth edge. You can make a cardboard template to do this, then they all look the same. They are screwed with 4" screws through the angle at each end. As added info, the joists are joined to the rails using halving joints, and I cut a 'oriental' shaped end to each one, again using a cardboard template to get them all the same. The edges of these were also trimmed with the router to neaten them. This end shape is obviously a personal touch, and they can be finished as you desire. Gallows/diagonal brace. Screwed though this point with a 4" screw/coachscrew. Joist fitted to rail with halving joint and screwed down from top with 4"screw. 'Oriental' shaped end...just my take. You can finish the ends as you wish. Just seen your last question. The uprights are 4"x4", the front rail and wall plate are 6"x2" and the joists are 5"x2". The length of the span will determine the width of the rail you need to prevent sagging. My BBQ pergola is only 10 feet across and I could get away with the measurments above. My other triangular pergola is just over 15 feet wide at the front and I used a 7"x2" for extra strength. Essentially, the wider the span, the deeper the rail needs to be. When cutting the halving joints, make sure they are a tight fit because if they are loose, the rail could still sag. In effect, in a halving joint, the piece you cut out of one rail is replaced by the timber in the crossing piece, so it needs to be tight. You should have to tap them together, not have a sliding fit. I've waffled on a bit, but hope this helps...if you need more, just shout.
  4. Which size is yours? I was just looking at the 41mm version, but I think they do that particular 1926 in 28, 36, and 39mm sizes too. I also have an 8" wrist, so would be interested.
  5. I'm not normally a fan of Tudors, as I'm not keen on the snowflake hands, but that one (and Rob's @mcb2007) I would happily wear as I like the hands and the blue colour.
  6. I had a chrono version that I won in a comp here...and I seem to recall giving it away in another comp. Tending to be regarded as 'fashion' watches, I believe they are Italian, but sport cheap Citizen or Seiko quartz movements. There have been a few on the SC over the years, but for not much money...£30 - £50, that sort of price. Pretty sure they're not all that old. This was the one I had.
  7. 3rd yellow watch on the trot...the 7T92 Seiko 'Caesar'...
  8. Elgin Masonic PW from 1924. The green gold filled Scepter case houses a size 12, 17 jewel movement, grade 345. There is nice chasing to the bezel edge, and the rear of the case is engraved with lines and waves. There is also a central, shield shaped cartouche. Instead of numbers, this watch features symbols from craft Masonry. A feature common to all these watches (that I have seen) is the quirky off centered second hand in the subsidiary dial. This one doesn't see the light of day much anymore as I no longer belong to the order. Here are a couple of pics of similar watches (from the web) that feature the same offset second hand.
  9. Roger the Dodger

    Mafws Game

    CREAM. Can't really expect a miracle... FADDY.
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