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Everything posted by rhaythorne

  1. I'm still enjoying the Adina Country Master Underground.
  2. I don't know how, where or when the "u" was introduced/dropped but I'm quite certain that "honor" was used in England at least as far back as the early 1600's.
  3. Personally, I use "calibre" for the definition of the merit of a person's worth and "caliber" for watch movements and gun barrel measurements. The latter is probably down down to the way my childhood wargaming rules were written
  4. My reading of that clause is that they're saying that the fact that they previously serviced the watch can't be used as a guarantee that the watch is genuine at a later time if, for example, you should you choose to sell it. That seems fair enough to me as, after it's left their hands, they have no knowledge of what may have happened to it. It's like a garage not being able to guarantee that your car is roadworthy just because they MOT'd it six months ago.
  5. I think that up until the early to mid 20th. Century there was no particular regulatory requirement in the UK for such items to declare a specific country of origin. However there were some regulations that required certain products to show that they were not of British manufacture and were thus "foreign". The "Swiss Made" wording started to appear in the late 19th Century but I'm guessing that there was not necessarily any particular advantage or requirement for the likes of Swiss or German makers to put "Swiss Made" or "Made in Germany" on their products as they were not, at that time, seen to be of superior quality. During the interwar period "Made in Germany" might even have been a disadvantage.
  6. Lots of fun to be had with Bronze/Brass cased watches:
  7. New in from down under Adina Country Master Underground First impressions are very good indeed. I was startled at the heft of the thing when I removed it from the box. For such a diminutive watch it's built like a tank and weighs about the same! The bracelet is very nice but I borrowed an idea from someone on WuS and prefer it on a vintage Bond NATO.
  8. I used acetone, which is nail varnish remover. Lots of very cheap options on eBay or from Boots/Superdrug etc.
  9. Bear in mind that there are at least two (to my knowledge) versions of the vintage Vostok "Radio Room" watch, the "Albatross" and the "Generalskie" and the dials are not quite the same. If you go for a replacement dial (which I agree is the best option) just make sure you choose the right one for your watch.
  10. Try putting it on a different strap/bracelet first. Often that can make a huge difference in the overall look/feel/appeal of a watch.
  11. Type @ then start typing the person's username. A pop-up will appear with corresponding usernames and you just click on the appropriate one.
  12. Love the Countrymaster series as well as a few of the others. They'd make great general purpose, everyday watches I think. Good size, good price and a good design which reminds me very much of the 70's/80's West End Sowar watches. I'm quite tempted.
  13. It's true for any manually wound watch movement that's less than about 150 years old. I can't be 100% sure about movements older than that as I've never owned any. Once the mainspring is fully wound, you won't be able to turn the crown any more. If you force it you'll probably break the crown off or snap the winding stem, but you'd have to be exceedingly clumsy to do that. So, just turn the crown gently until it can't be turned further, and that's all there is to it. Note that automatic wind watches have a special feature so that the crown never reaches an "end point" as such and can be turned continuously. 30-50 turns of the crown is usually sufficient to manually wind such watches.
  14. Just keep turning the winder until it stops. The watch is then fully wound. There's really no such thing as "over winding" but it is a generic term sometimes used to describe a watch that's broken for some other reason.
  15. I can recall my dad wearing stripey canvas straps on his watches. But that was the late 60's and fashions have changed since then :)) I love them though, including the "Bond" bottom left:
  16. Well, yes, probably. But for heaven's sake don't create a spreadsheet! It's the slippery slope
  17. You can't liken the actual wear of continuous running because the engineering of the two is completely different. I don't have my mechanical watches serviced at all until they exhibit some erratic timekeeping or stop. They're unlikely to blow apart or suffer catastrophic damage as an internal combustion engine might do. Run them once in a while to check they're OK. Other than that, don't worry about it.
  18. People often compare clockwork watches with cars. I've never understood why as, apart from them both being mechanical, they operate via entirely different mechanisms. Arguably a water wheel is more like a jet engine and a pair of scissors is more akin to a combine harvester than a mechanical watch is to a car. And you wouldn't operate or service them the same way would you?
  19. ...and still being well cared for 19mm lugs with what appears to be a 19mm "NATO". I don't recall changing the strap so maybe you did or perhaps that's what CWC/Silvermans supplied them with back then.
  20. I think straps with angular "NATO-esque" style fittings will suit it better than the rounded ZULU type.
  21. Buy any vintage watch you like the look of that's already 50+ years old.
  22. Farer Beagle this weekend after a spot of regulation.
  23. Ahhh, thanks for that. I had a hunch it was a 1940's AS but, despite searching for ages, couldn't track it down as I was looking at slightly larger sizes. I can relax now @Gen for more information about your watch you could try contacting GP directly via their online contact form and select "Heritage" as the topic or, for a London shop who may help, try Alsal on Strand.
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