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Sir Alan

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About Sir Alan

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  1. I own these two I prefer the second.
  2. You need stem 351.580 and crown 45M60NS1 Both are in stock at Cousins.
  3. I'm a self taught hobbyist and know the pleasure that fixing something yourself can give, that along with knowing you've done a 'good' job. My advice would be to work out what you want to be able to do. And I recommend setting your sights low. Not because I doubt your capability but simply because its better to achieve what you set out to do and then raise the bar, than to fail and give up on the first outing. For example: 1 - change a battery (and you might think I'm joking here, but to change a battery without marking the case or damaging the movement is a skill) 2 - change / resize a bracelet 3 - remove a movement from the case and clean the case and bracelet 4 - change a crystal 5 - swap a dial and hands (to maybe mod a watch) etc All of the above require tools / equipment. Personally I would suggest buying from the top end manufacturers (rather than what you will hear refrred to as India / Chinese versions). The reason is two-fold. a) the quality is simply better. Watch tinkering requires precision - in almost all cases you won't get the same levels from equipment that is 1/10th the price. b) you will be able to easily re-sell tools / equipment from Bergeon, Horotec, A&F etc and get a good % of your investment back. obviously though your own budget will dictate what you can afford. I would buy only what you need, when you know you need it. There are numerous very good write-ups on the watch forums and peoples personal blogs etc. Google search is your friend.
  4. I use the Etic 340.400 Easy to use and works on movements and screwdrivers etc.
  5. I really like The Great Blue - I've not seen one of these before. Time to do some 'research' .......
  6. 6139/6138 along with 7Axx based watches form a large part of my collection and I really like them, both externally and internally (their movements). I couldn't resist picking up another Pogue a couple of weeks ago and at the weekend it had the full treatment I agree that prices continue to increase but I still think that good examples represent real value for money.
  7. Your best bet for the crystal is a Sternkreuz 330W18GN equivalent (XMD 330.821) CousinsUK sell them - as do ebay sellers (at an inflated price). If you're interested in getting it serviced (should you win the auction) then contact me, I've done a LOT of these now.
  8. That looks a very nice example.
  9. All screws are required as they ensure (when correctly tightened) that electrical contact is made where required. There is also a clip at the top of the movement (assuming the LCD panel is at the top) that needs to be correctly engaged with the plastic tab of the mainplate - this ensures that the two zebra strips that drive the LCD panel are in contact with the PCB. If your movement is missing the screw by the battery terminal then this might be the simple cause of the problem.
  10. Hi Scott, all I can suggest is that the movement is stripped down. They are very fiddly, being a sandwich of both plastic and metal parts and don't like battery leak. Is there any evidence of either battery leak or rust in yours?
  11. I suspect that the shock of hitting the floor has caused the regulator arm(s) to move - they can only move in one of two directions (clockwise or anti-clockwise). Any movement (in either direction) will affect the timing (Beat Error) and / or the Rate (gaining or losing time). If this has happened, regulating the watch to find the optimal position for these arms should be straightforward. A major impact (as described) may have caused damage to the movement but this would only be apparent when the movement was inspected and put on a timegrapher. The fact that it is running is a positive sign.
  12. Hmmmm. This failed the quartz tag yesterday and the automatic tag today.
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