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Everything posted by RTM Boy

  1. I agree with @SolaVeritate, modern manufacturing technology and a wide choice of movements has enabled microbrands to proliferate, particularly as the big watch brands (Seiko included) have been busy inflating SRPs to ever higher levels. There is clearly an element of paying for the name on the dial, in the same way that buying an Audi that is basically the same car as a Skoda, only in a fancy frock and four rings on the grille. There are quite few microbrands offering watches as low as £500 with SW200-1 movements under the hood and as we know that same movement, albeit finished to a higher standard, can be found in pieces up to £4k SRP. The 'problem' for microbrands is the crowded space they occupy, each fighting for attention as not a day passes without a new name appearing. And that name needs to be chosen carefully. Kingsbury might sound good to an American, but how does it stack up elsewhere? When I think of Kingsbury, I think of the down-at-heel north London suburb I once knew that still has more than its share of problems... If the brands doesn't have a place in horological history, it's got to sing alot louder for its supper.
  2. That's a good point. And even if you're lucky enough to get one with the second hand lining up when you buy a quartz, it usually 'moves' out of alignment over time in my experience. A few internet reviewers do point out such flaws, but alot never touch on it. I remember the hot water the 'old' Top Gear (1977-2001) got into with manufacturers when Clarkson criticised a car. I was working for a manufacturer (that shall remain nameless) in the 1990s when he tested a model and was less than complimentary about it and there was something of an internal stink about it. Clarkson's departure in 1999 was at least in part down to his refusal to 'be nice' in test drives. Like him or loath him, he didn't pull his punches...in every sense... The new Top Gear (post 2002) had a few notable falling outs with a number of manufacturers when the programme became bigger than the products (eg Bentley, Dodge, Ford and others). Thank heavens we can be honest and open on TWF!
  3. Actually, no, I don't really. In fact it's its very blandness that is its defining feature. Looking more closely, the minute hand is pointing directly at the minute marker, even though its 22 seconds into the minute, so it's badly set...and...er...nope...nothing else, it just sends me to
  4. Grey dial for a grey Sunday. Confucius say; above the clouds the sun always shines HAGD everyone.
  5. I can't say I despise any watch. There are brands I like so little that I would not buy one of their watches, irrespective of how much money I might have. But that's about the brand itself and the associations with it, rather than the individual watch designs. The only one I can think of that comes close is Breitling; I like their Top Time chronos, but most of the rest of their products are really not my thing at all. But despise, no.
  6. GSs are exquisitely-made and have THE best level of finishing, certainly dial-side, IMHO . What I find interesting is the extent to which quite a few brands seem to be generally 'known' more and more in effect for one style of watch, whether it's Tudor BB58, Omega Speedies, IWC Pilot, Oris Aquis or GS as per above (yes, yes, I know that is not literally the case). In that context, GS varies its dial colour and texture, but really not much else visually. It's a lovely watch, but a bit too...samey...for my taste. And so far outside my budget that it's not even worth mentioning. The way SRPs are going up and up, all the big brands are heading off into the sunset leaving me sitting 'round the camp fire with microbrands, and the kind of stuff Jody on JOMW reviews, eating beans out of a tin
  7. RTM Boy

    Citizen AT

    From the album: Various

  8. Wow just had a look myself. The new SRP prices have shot up too. They are certainly thin, but defo fall into the well-outside-my-budget category... I think it's down to the spread of 'spin' (aka organised lying) into every area of life over the last couple of decades. Alastair Campbell probably has a dossier somewhere on why watch crystals should not be included when measuring the thickness of the watch...the key feature of a crystal being that they are optional of course...
  9. Yeah, thanks, too thick for what I'm looking for anyway. But looking into it a bit more, there's another issue I have with the Longines Spirit; at £1,820 SRP for the 42mm version it's £500 more than the Milus (at current FX rates) for a straightforward-looking field watch whose date window looks like a last-minute decision, as does what seems to be an advertisement for VSOP cognac above 6 o'clock. I'm sure it's very nice, but for me for that look I'll stick with my £60 Pulsar
  10. Thanks. The FC is rather more dressy than what I'm looking for and actually over 10mm when taking the crystal into account... Having said that, the gold plated version is just £340 (68% off), which tells you two things; 1) FCs are not selling well, and 2) gold-plated FCs are really not selling well. Still, a nice looking gold plated Swiss dress watch for that price is a real bargain. The current Milus is really nice, perhaps still a bit too dressy for me ...perhaps... but I'm liking it more and more the longer I look at it...
  11. Yeah, too dressy, but very nice though Shame today's watch makers don't produce more unusual takes like that.
  12. Not having bought anything for getting on for 4 years, my recent luck in securing a Briston (thanks again @Roy ) has made me hanker for a thin auto or hand-wound - not too dressy. These tend to be associated with micro-rotors and high prices, so I'm looking at something more affordable around the 9mm (+/- 0.5mm) thick mark with an SRP of under £1500 new. Having had a good look around, options seems quite limited - hand wound being more likely to fit the bill than autos. Some manufacturers (FC, RW) claim their watches are slim, but when you include the crystal...err...not so much I don't want a Hamilton - so I've excluded them - just don't like them, sorry. The 'obvious' choice is a Nomos Club 701 hand wound 36mm at 8.2mm, or thereabouts But I'm very open to suggestions, if anyone has any alternatives in mind... Cheers.
  13. I take "must haves" merely as a figure of speech. The only truly "must haves" in life is air to breathe, water to drink, food to eat and shelter. So, I might willingly shelter under this (SRP £300) Citizen BN0118-12L Promaster Tough Super Titanium with 300m WR and kevlar strap, so come the apocalypse the part of my wrist protected by it will survive. I think that's as close to a "must have" as I can muster!
  14. Yes. And be careful where you buy the battery from. You'd be surprised by the extent of fakes out there...you' don't want to ruin your watch with a dodgy battery.
  15. Indeed. Hardly a day passes without me coming across a microbrand new issue that catches my eye. Even within certain established brands, eg Oris or Ball, I'd happily own every model in their range. So much delectable choice, so little cash
  16. Welcome @FX_ , you could have at look at these; VC Overseas... Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Moser Streamliner Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero L U Chopard GMT One GP Laureato GS (they all look alike to me so take your pick )
  17. I find the distinction between the copy (or 'passing off' as I like to think of it) and homage for me to be very subjective. Diver-style watches are the mass market these days. They are easily the most popular style of luxury watch. Every manufacturer (well, every one I can think of) makes divers, often in many different styles in different collections, or with vintage reissues (or near enough). So, almost by definition, these share many common characteristics and design cues. Sure, the closeness many makers' products appear to be to Subs is at one end of the spectrum, but bezels follow the same format, round markers, lots of lume, lume pips, high WR, thick cases, etc., and there's even an ISO standard to copy and paste! But it's not just divers. Flieger-style watches are usually very formulaic to the point of endless genericism. Plain dials, triangles on the dial at 12 and sword hands only need apply. Again, I think manufacturers are simply looking at what they believe sells and turn out me-too products with little to differentiate eg a £7,200 IWC Big Pilot from a £1000 COSC-certified Zeno Nostalgia Automatic Chronometer, other than a debate about VFM. Chronometers face the same cliche three sub dials, two pushers; is it a Daytona, or is it a Chronomaster Sport? Discuss. OK, there's far more room for variation when it comes to chronometers, but inevitably there are a large number of similarities. As for originality in dress watches And so on and so forth. And when brands try something a bit different eg Oris with its Chronoris range, they don't sell and get discontinued. However, all this does enable us to be picky though about the design details most non-WIS don't notice or care about. It gives us the freedom to complain about date windows at 4:30 with or without cyclopses, horrible crowns you can't grip that don't screw down, screw-down pushers, illegible silver hands on silver dials, etc., which let's face it is half the fun of this hobby! A cracking dial with heaps of style
  18. The date window is harking back to the original models from the early 1970s that had the date window in the same place, but I do agree the 4:30 position on the slant is a real turn-off for me (it would be OK if it were square on in a round aperture), and the Heuer looks far more subtle...but I'd still rather have the Zenith.
  19. I'm not a hot-weather person either! I've actually been involved with four UK tree-related charities (of vastly different sizes) over many years and they are are genuinely caring about improving the environment. I think the more detail and links you can provide to show who you're working with and how and the end result, the more 'authentic' the donation will be. If you wanted to prove your green credentials are genuine, there are UK trees charities that organise planting days...or weeks...that you could get involved in and perhaps do a feature on your website. Then the cynics won't think you're just chucking money at something to look good.
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