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Everything posted by apm101

  1. OP = Oyster Perpetual SMP = Seamaster Professional DD = Day Date Sub = Submariner Speedy = Speedmaster GMT = GMT Master or II SO = SuperOcean I've never understood why Jaeger-leCoultre is JLC (which it undoubtedly is), as the logo is JC...
  2. For me it depends on age. A newish watch, I would hope to see the B&P, but a 40-year old vintage, I wouldn't. B&P generally will only affect the price of a watch. No B&P = cheaper. Can be an advantage! As has been said, for me it's not a barrier, follow advice and buy the seller! Rolex is a different matter- you need to be 100% certain your are buying genuine, box or no box- fakes these days are scarily close, and it needs an expert to tell. Boxes and papers are also faked, and can be hard to distinguish unless you know what you are looking at. Buy from a very reputable source!
  3. Both very nice. I would say, buy on the bracelet if you can- you can add a NATO or leather strap easily, but if you wanted to add the bracelet later, these cost a fortune if bought seperately. I've owned a BB and a Bremont (not that model, but I've tried the Supermarine several times), both excellent quality. I'd probably go for the British watch by a nose. I really like the caseback!! I think it's this one for the S300? In fact, I'd go with the S300 (blue dial), on the bracelet.
  4. Father's day gift. Swatch Extravehicular. BIG!
  5. Seiko make great watches, but the bracelets are consistently below par for the price point. I recently had a King Samurai, and actually bought a Geckota clasp to replace the woeful OEM article.
  6. I'd assume used at that price. Where are you buying from?
  7. GP Jackpot Tourbillon 1945. I'd never get bored of playing with it! 18k white gold, about half a million quid. Little video:
  8. Gen 1 OM for the day, switching to the JLC when I go out later on.
  9. Shame that it's compromised by things that would be easy to sort out. Sounds like they skimped in their user testing. Can we see some pics, or have a reference number, so we can see what you told us about? Ta!
  10. One I've had for a while, don't wear very often. Swatch YAS100G. Skeletonised modified ETA 2824, running slow at 21,600. Cheap and only a Swatch, but one of my favourites.
  11. 1) Rolex Yachtmaster 116622, blue dial. I just love the look of these. More interesting than a Sub or SD. For daily wear, possibly dress. I have a vague plan to flog a few this year and get the previous version (16622). 2) My current JLC Heraion Chrono. Quartz, but so lovely. Chrono duties and definitely dress 3) Multiband G-shock as a beater and to keep time. Maybe a big silver one!
  12. Custom Yobokies Gulf Porsche 917 tribute today. Sub case, PO bezel, running a Seiko NH-35.
  13. My son is 12 , in year 8, wears a blue/ yellow square baby G. He's quite slender, anything bigger would just look silly. 33mm would be fine, especially as it's a very masculine watch.
  14. I love these! My next watch will be a 16622, when I get around to selling most of my collection. If I had more funds, I would definitely go for the blue dial, as it is stunning. To me the Sub is ubiquitous and overpriced, and GMT watches leave me a bit cold. The Yachtmaster is sporty enough, and much more interesting!
  15. My preference is for the Yema. Tsao is out for me, due to the name mostly. It's also the least nice looking to me. The Detroit for me is too much of the SMP with that bezel. The dial is also very busy, although I do like the use of a diving bezel as opposed to the traditional GMT. Yema is a nice looking watch, and I like that it is different- French with an in-house movement.
  16. Actually, I'd go Union. It's an in-house handwind v Selitta auto. No contest.
  17. New(ish) mid and high-end, lack of box and papers will impact value, sometimes quite significantly. For certain brands, box & papers is an indicator of not being fake, but by no means a guarantee! Age is a big driver too- older watches (even high end), it's less of an issue if box is missing (less expected for a 20+ year old watch). My Rolex is a vintage (1978), but I'm lucky to have a full set, including recent service information. My JLC is a 1990s and only has the box (with some damage) My 1978 Seamaster chrono has nothing, and my SuperOcean has a box, but it's the wrong one and its broken. Worst box: Vostok. Why bother?? Best box: Speedmaster X-33, made of spacesuit material, and not too big. Honourable mention: the new eco-friendly CW boxes are really nice. Common issues: Omeage red boxes falling to bits; Breitling bakelite cracking; Timefactors: denatured glue means the edging falls off; Tissot: the book?? Overall, I'd rather have the box than not, but it's not a deal killer, if the price is right!
  18. Saw a thread about Breitlings on the Dark Side, and decided to put mine on today. 1500M SuperOcean A17360
  19. I like them. Big, yes, but that's been a Breitling thing for a while. I love the idea of the swappable riders on the bezel. The UTC module has long been a thing for Breitling- I had a B1 a few years back, and really wanted to add the UCT to my Pro 2 bracelet, but couldn't fine one.
  20. Put up a note in the classifieds, in case anyone on here wants a new watch? You can make a mutually beneficial arrangement with them...
  21. No idea how old you might be, but birth year watch? Beat me to it!
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