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Brahma

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About Brahma

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    Pin Pallet
  1. Hi Nev. Thanks Nev - I won’t worry about the jewels then! So today’s update. I’ve released the screw holding the balance assembly onto the bottom plate and removed the hairspring. The pallet fork looks ok (I think) but I think the balance staff has definitely had it. What about the hairspring - is the reusable? Here’s the barrel - front/back and open This is the bottom plate now with just the centre wheel left. I’m going to put it through the Ultrasonic bath tomorrow and then soak it in the rust remover. I’ve tried to break the canon pinion as you suggested, and it did break away, but I still can’t free the wheel. On the dial side, how should these wheels and springs in the red circle come free? There are no screws - should they just prise off? Or am I missing something? Thanks again, Nev. Andy
  2. I’ve managed to get some photos of the pivots and pinions of the third, fourth and escape wheels. It looks as though the pinion has had it on the third wheel. Escape Wheel Third Wheel Fourth Wheel Here is the movement now, outside the watch. I’ve been dripping a little penetrating oil into the screw that holds the balance assembly in place - hoping that will be freed in the next day or two
  3. Hi Nev. Thanks for keeping with me! Yes, The other wheels all came off fairly easily - just this centre wheel that’s stuck. Understand what you say about the canon pinion - will get on to that today and see what happens. Whenever you use the Ultrasonic bath, do you always give the parts a quick dip in petrol or IPA to rinse? Is there an order that you should do things with the Ultrasonic? e.g. First bath - put everything in just water Second bath - put everything in Elma Ultra Clean Ultrasonic Cleaner Third bath - rinse in petrol or IPA Do you run all of the above through a 10 minute Ultrasonic cycle? The reason I asked again about the jewels, is because on another site I raised a question about jewels and had a response that emphatically stated not to put any solution like rust remover on the jewels as it would dissolve them! He stated the jewels were not really stones but were created in a lab! I will go with your advice anyway, Nev. And will aim to try and get some pictures. Thanks again, Andy
  4. Have Not been well for the last little while so have not been able to work in this. But I’m back now! Thanks again for your replies - really appreciate it.Nev you say “I would disassemble this movement for no more than 5 minutes, and without the penetrating oil.” What do you mean by this? Just want to clarify my next steps. 1. Before I do anything else, should I put everything in the ultrasonic bath and give it all a clean? (In the hope that this might free up the canon pinion / second wheel?!) 2. If the answer to (1.), above is “yes”, should I just use tap water? Or the Elma Ultra Clean Ultrasonic Cleaner that I have?2. I can’t dip the canon pinion / end of the second wheel in rust remover - the outer part of this part of the movement sits slightly proud so I’m a bit stuck. Would it be ok to just drip a few drops of rust remover on the bit I think is rusted? Or just put the whole thing in the rust remover - if it won’t destroy the jewels? Thanks again, Andy
  5. Thanks for your replies gents. So should I soak the movement in the Horosolve Horelex Rust Remover before I do anything? And just to confirm, I can soak the movement in the rust remover and this won’t harm the jewels? Sorry - nervous about this! (Stupid question, are the jewels real jewels / stones? They’re not a man made material?!) I understand the pallet jewels are attached by shellac - what do I need the alcohol for? Should I be dissolving the shellac and taking the pallet stones out and regluing them afterwards? Will try and get better photos of the wheels and mainspring. As far as the wheels are concerned, are they made from brass with the centre column made from steel? With the pivots turned? Or are the centre columns made from brass too with the pivots turned and added? Movement is out now Gimli - I could try adding a little drop of rust remover to the pivots and canon pinion if this would work? Thanks again
  6. Hey folks and Happy New Year!! I finally managed to get the main bridge out- after loads and loads of penetrating oil. Strangely, neither screw came out rusted! But there we go. Here’s a picture of the movement without the main bridge ..... I’ve labelled the wheels - hopefully I’ve got this right? Only my third wheel has a pinion on the top of it - which is different to what I expected? Anyway, I can’t get the second wheel out - it wobbles but will not come free- I think it might be rusted to the canon opinion? I finally managed to unscrew the retaining screw that was holding the movement in the case and bingo! I got the movement out! As has been predicted, this movement has almost certainly had it but I’d like to keep dismantling as a learning exercise. So, can I drop it in some Horosolve Horelex Rust Remover now to try and get the worst off? Or will this stuff melt / dissolve / damage any jewels still in place on the movement? Thnaks everyone, ‘Andy
  7. Thanks Nev! Great reply from you again - lots of info. I thought that the screw you’ve highlighted was used to lock the movement in the case - I’ve tried lining it up like you suggest but the movement still won’t come out. It rocks back and forth a tad but I can’t get it out - the rusted up stem seems to be encrusted around the clutch wheel. Do I have to use a bit of force here? I've got a screw on that bridge that won’t budge either. I’ve filed up and sharpened a bigger screwdriver to get a better grip (I’ve got big hands and sometimes I can’t get a grip on the little screwdrivers) and have been soaking it with penetrating oil for a couple of days to try and free it. Was thinking about putting my soldering iron on and using a bit of heat to see if I can get it out? I think that the main spring barrel can come out now - I think I can ease it out from under the wheels and bridge. Is that ok to do? Could I damage any pivots by doing this? Or should I wait until the bridge is out? Thanks again Nev - really appreciate your help. I know this watch might not be repairable, but is good fun learning with! Andy
  8. Should also say that I took the crown wheel out too. Unfortunately, the screw head broke off so I had to use a sharp pair of tweezers and gently turn what was left until it came out.
  9. Hello folks. Took ages for the penetrating oil to release the screws holding the bridge and the ratchet wheel in place, but finally got them out. The bottom screw in Nev’s picture wasn’t screwed in - not sure if the screw is too small or there is no thread inside? There is some rust staining under this bridge too. In this picture, I have circled too issue areas - red being the end of the winding stem; this is rusted solid. I can’t pull the stem out because it’s rusted to the sleeve (is that the right name?) but once I take the train wheels out, I’ll be able to remove it from inside. This next picture is the front and you can see the rust again and in the red circle, it’s quite bad. The component on the right in the circle I think is the Pin set; Here is the Longines bridge removed, also with some rust staining on front and back. What is next now? I’m assuming the remaining bridge is the next to come out? Thanks all for reading all of this and for your ongoing help. Andy
  10. Thanks Neven. Agree this is probably shot, but figure it's good practice working on the movement anyway! Thanks for the advice ref the next steps, I'll get on to that tomorrow. The top of the red screws in the image above is seized pretty solid so I have been feeding it penetrating oil all day and hoping it will be freed up by tomorrow. Thanks again - really appreciate your help. Andy
  11. So I dropped a few drips of penetrating oil onto the wheels on the back of the movement (crown wheel and ratchet wheel) and all the other gears, pivot holes, etc. that I could see but it was still all gummed up. So I dropped another few drips onto the screw holding the click and also dropped a few drips down the space left by the top of the broken winding stem. Left overnight and tried again. Releasing the click got things moving! Both the ratchet wheel and crown wheel turned and now everything seems to be moving. However, I still can’t get the movement out of the case as I can’t pull out the stem (Should it just pull out? Or is something else going to be holding it back?). Also, this movement has a pin set and that’s held fast too. The good news is, I’ve been able to remove the tiny screw that holds the stem in place. What’s my next step? Is there anything else I can do to get the movement out of the case? Or should I just dismantle it from within the case? Should I be able to undo the screws holding the crown wheel and ratchet wheel from the back of the movement? Thanks again folks. Andy
  12. Sorry, ever thought about pictures! Here’s a couple- not sure if these help at all?
  13. Hey folks - Happy Christmas!! I’ve got an old Longines pocket watch (1897) that I want to try and overhaul and restore. I’m kind of falling at the first hurdle though as I can’t get the movement out of the case as the stem is rusted just situ. This model has a pin set and this to appears to be rusted. The crown has broken of level with the top of it’s entry place into the case so I have nothing to get hold of. I’ve got some Horosolve rust remover, some wd-40, some 3-1 penetrating oil and some Elma 1:9 watch cleaning solution. Quite a bit of the movement has got rust on it so could do with going in a bath of Horosolve but I was planning on taking the movement to bits and soaking the individual parts. As I can’t get the stem or pin set out, I’m a bit stumped. Should I just soak the rusted parts in 3-1 and then try and remove them? Or put the whole watch (including the case) in Horosolve? Thanks everyone Andy
  14. Thanks Simon. Would you be able to explain what each tool is used for?
  15. Hi folks. I’m new on here - I joined a couple of years back but haven’t been in a position until now to really step up my interest until now. My main area of interest is in pocket watches and I’m hoping to develop my skills to such an extent as to be able to service and, ultimately, repair them. I have a couple of pocket watch movements that I’m hoping to get going in the future, and I have a couple of cheaper movements that are working that I plan to strip down, clean and reassemble. I figure my first strip down will be better done on a watch that I know is working. I’ve been doing a fair bit of research into what tools I’ll need to start accumulating and would be interested to hear what you would recommend to be the minimum toolkit for servicing? And then for repairing? Also, please can you explain what and how the watchmaker’s jeweller and the watchmaker’s staking tools are used? Are they the same? Can they be interchanged (as in can you buy a staking tool and use it as a “jeweller” and vice versa? Thanks all.
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