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Jeremy Fisher

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Everything posted by Jeremy Fisher

  1. The issue depends on the type of insurance it is. Not all policies will replace goods, some will replace value. That's when it gets complicated. Watches don't retain their value once sold, so if the policy only pays out the value of the watch, how its valued is important. If they decide they want to pay less, then they can contest the valuation and potentially pay out less. However if you have evidence that they are happy with the valuation you got, then they can't turn around and try to contest it later on.
  2. Whoever you end up using, double check with the insurance company that they are happy with the choice (and try to get the confirmation in an email, letter or some other recorded format). If the worst happens, it is always possible they will try and find an excuse not to pay.
  3. Interesting to see the watch (rather than just the movement) branded Venus. I thought they used Venus for the movements and Minerva for the watches.
  4. Nice to see some originality for once in microbrands. My only criticism would be that the straps are very casual/"tool watch" compared to the incredibly dressy design.
  5. Like everyone says, it all depends on how you look at it and what you budget is but overall, swatch's categorisation of their brands gives you an excellent overview of what brands fall into the middle segment of the market as a whole. The swatch group covers the entire range of the watch industry (as opposed to commentators who only focus on the "luxury" end of the market who consider Rolex and Omega "entry level" or department stores for whom anything swiss is high end) so their classification is as good as any. This is how swatch categorises their brands: Prestige and Luxury Range: Breguet, Harry Winston, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Léon Hatot and Omega High Range: Longines, Rado and Union Glashütte Middle Range: Tissot, Calvin Klein watches + jewelry, Balmain, Certina, Mido and Hamilton Basic Range Swatch and Flik Flak Based on how Swatch sells their "middle range" brands I would say anything from £400 - 1000 RRP is considered mid-range, for "basic" three hand watches. Factor in up to twice that for more complicated movements such as Chronographs, retrograde hands, moonphases etc. Quartz (battery powered) versions will also save you £100-200 compared to their mechanical counterparts (even more for chronographs). Hamilton, Tissot and Certina are all good, well represented "mid-range" watches. You also have a plethora of independent and micro brands within that price range. Purely off the top of my head, others I would look into would be Christopher ward, Victorinox, Fortis, Bulova, Seiko and Citizen. I would also look into slightly more expensive brands (at the "high range" Swatch price-point) with low resale values if you don't mind buying second hand. A lot of the brands sitting at around the price points of Longines, TAG and Brietling have terrible resale value. This include old brands, which have been overshadowed, like Eterna, Tutima and Baume & Mercer and some established - but still relatively new - brands like Frederique Constant, Maurice Lacroix, Raymond Weil and Muhle. I would generally recommend buying 2nd hand anyway, because regardless of what you buy you will loose a lot of value off RRP.
  6. Just making a snide remark. Personally not a big fan of tobacco brands. Watch-wise it seems solid. Higher end 2892 movement + decent complication. If the discounts are anything like how much they sell for on amazon, then its a steal. Tis a tobacco brand.
  7. Jewellers test gold cases by lightly scratching a discrete area with a needle/file suited to the task (inside of the case back usually). You have acid and chemical tests which don't cause any damage but these cannot distinguish plated from solid metals. I don't think having a discrete test mark inside the case will lower value. Every gold watch I have owned has had such marks on the inside of the case back. But my experiences comes from vintage watches (which good jewellers will always test) and it may be different for modern watches.
  8. I agree, payment protections are lifesavers. Also, just to add to what has been already said, it is best to act quickly when something goes wrong. Ebay offers 30 days payment guarantee and Paypal 180 days buyer protection. Ebay works a lot faster than paypal, so its always best to claim through ebay whenever possible. Also, make sure you use ebay messaging whenever possible and make sure you mention anything you might wish to rely on later in a dispute. Paypal has access to your eBay messages relating to a particular case when you open a claim and you end up with irrefutable confirmation that your account of how things went down is the truth. Having a "paper trail" that evidences how things went down, and having the seller acknowledge what you have said to be true, is a lifesaver. If you communicate with the seller over phone or over a none ebay platform, get them to acknowledge what was said on eBay. Screenshotting everything and making sure you have a copy of all messages is best practice, but having all the pertinent information on eBay messenger will save you ALOT of time - especially if the buyer tries to argue that your forged the external evidence (or forges their own evidence). The paypal dispute resolution team are notoriously slow. Having everything there for them to automatically will mean that dispute will be settled a lot more quickly. You can also call them up to hassle them so that they move your case up the queue ... that works, but I would not go down this route if there is any doubt over which way the case will go (annoyed people more often tend to make decisions based on how they feel towards parties rather than on logic). If you are lucky enough to end up with the watch, you will have to return it if they seller wants it back - it would be unjust enrichment if you not only got a refund but ended up with the watch anyway. But, you have no active duty to return it if the seller doesn't respond / request their watch back.
  9. We can rest assured, Swatch's dominance of the market means that even if it stops supplying movements, it will find it difficult - virtually impossible - to stop supplying parts. Swatch has obligations under European and Swiss competition law to continue to supply parts due to their dominance. This holds true even when Swatch's obligation to supply movements ends. Furthermore, this continues to be true even in the unlikely event that Swatch no longer becomes dominant in the market for movements, as the lack of interorperability (switch-ability of parts) means that the market for ETA spare parts will be considered a market unto itself, and swatch is invariably dominant. If swatch refused to supply the market for spare parts, or refused to supply it at reasonable prices, it would be a "refusal to supply" by a dominant firm, which is in breach of EU Competition law - and swiss competition law which is modelled closely on, and tracks, its EU counterpart. (in the unlikely situation that someone is interested in spending a good few hours reading EU case law, the cases establishing the precedent are Hugin v Commission and Volvo v Veng)
  10. The only thing you can trade for it, your dignity
  11. Personally, I feel that given the variety of watches out there - and the limited nature of my own funds - it seems like a shame to have multiple of the same rather than something different. I try not to have two of the same movement (or variation of the same movement) in my collection, let alone two of the same model, and I try not to have multiples of the same brand (the only exception is that I have two vintage Longines from different periods). The closest thing to "two of a kind" I have is an ETA 2836 based ORIS pointer and a 2892 based Omega (pre co-axial model), but the 28xx and 29xx are fairly different, despite being based on the same manual wind moment, and both are fairly extensively modified (the ORIS with a pointer + subdial complication and the Omega having a fully custom autowinding system + bridge). I also have a 7750 chrono and a Valgranges auto without chronograph, but they are sufficiently different not to bother me.
  12. Whilst I agree its not something I personally would buy at that price, its justified given that ORIS is one of the few brands that actually modifies base movements in house and uses ebauche kits instead of just using out of the box movements. - which is a lot further than TAG, Brieting and even (for their current lineups) IWC goes for their ETA/Sellita movements. Whilst this may not be the same as full on in house, it requires a fair bit of extra labour and effort, particularly if they have come up with a complication that you don't generally see.
  13. You should really look into changing your business model because I don't think you will succeed if your watch is priced as is. Unless you plan on competing on cost, as many microbrands do, you should try and create more of a USP for your product. As others have mentioned, your design is rather conventional so it would be difficult for you to compete with other microbrands who offer watches at the fraction of the cost. Even with the higher end Soprod movement factored in, your watches are priced exceptionally high for a microbrand. Steinhart, for example, used to offer Soprod equipped watches at £600-800 (roughly $800 - 1000). At $2000, you are at a pricepoint where you are competing with an endless list well known, big name brands, such as TAG, Longines, ORIS etc. Newer brands that have managed to penetrate that price point successfully have done so by offering functions and features, such as in house movements and complex complications or unique case materials, not available from dominant brands in the same cost bracket. These generally cost the brands millions of dollars in investment, so this may not be an option for your brand. I highly recommend looking into the supply chains / business models of other micro brands who have been able to successfully undercut well establish brands whilst offering similar specifications to your product. Because you aren't going to be able to compete at all if your production costs is twice the retail price of competitors offerings.
  14. Hamilton Khakis, either preowned or on sale, would squeeze in under £300 and the designs are fairly similar to those you brought up already (particularly the white dial models). Plus you are getting a very well known brand from the Swatch group which will have much better build quality than microbrands at the same pricepoint.
  15. I think it's the relatively rare combination of a well known brand and a very wide range of quartz models. It's much easier and cheaper to make a convincing fake of a quartz watch than a mechanical one.
  16. It's one that will be difficult to tell because it is a quartz and has a relatively straightforward and simple design. If it is a good fake, I doubt anyone on will be able to tell from just photos. I recommend taking it to an expert.
  17. All I can say is don't get anything gold plated. They do wear off rather quickly, even when it is PVD - which is the strongest form of metal plating. Under £500 its quite unlikely you will even get PVD. I would also add that you can pick up Tissot for around your budget, either preowned or on sale, and for around £100 - 200 overall quality will likely be better than most Seiko or Orient (unless you are willing to go second hand). As much as I do like the Japanese brands, they (Seiko and Orient) reserve better movements and materials, such as sapphire crystal, for their higher end models (starting at £300-400 price point) whereas Tissot uses them as standard throughout all their lines. Seiko's better ranges are relatively difficult to find in the UK and the deals on them are not as good as with the more widely available Swiss brands. For the same reason, savings by going second hand are a lot smaller with good Japanese watches than with swiss ones.
  18. They've just tilted the movement (like a "driving" watch) and made the case weird. Regardless of shape, pretty much all watches work the same way as "bog standard" round faced ones.
  19. "family owned" and "family controlled" are most often just PR spins. Given the structure of companies, a family member holding a minority share makes it family owned. The case is similarly blurry with family controlled. Lange, for example, was reestablished after the fall of the Berlin wall by swiss industry insiders who set up a Lange descendent as chairman.
  20. Hi, I am considering using chrono24 to acquire a new watch, but never used it before. Am I right in understanding pretty much everyone is open to haggling on the site? Is 3/4 of asking price too high/too low for a starting offer? I have found it to be a good starting point for eBay best offers. Any advice would be much appreciated.
  21. I have the blackface version, lovely watch. As to strap choices, I would go with Rios, the quality is up there with top end OEM straps (many of which are manufactured by Rios) and they sell a lot of exotic leathers at very reasonable prices. Personally, I prefer their build quality to Hirsch - their "art manual" construction makes for a much sturdier and longer lasting strap - and, at least for the exotics, they are much cheaper than Hirsch (£120-150 for a fullcut alligator strap vs £200+ for a Hirsch). There are quite a few ebay sellers who sell them quite a bit cheaper than the RRP. But if standard Hirsch straps are too short for you, you might have to go with more official sellers to get a well sized strap. As far as pure value for money goes, cousins is always a good choice but you won't always find the best quality. Watchstrap.co.uk is a good online seller and has a wide range of straps at relatively cheap prices, but they don't stock "big name" straps from the likes of Hirsch, Rios, Morellato, Di-Modell etc. Watch-band-center.com stocks a lot of decent straps but they sell at RRP so aren't exactly budget friendly. If you are a fan of "panerai style" thick straps without tapering, Steinhart's own branded straps, which I think are made by Rios, are pretty decent value - although I don't think thick straps really suit the smartness of the SARB "baby Grand Seiko" range .
  22. I wouldn't worry too much about watches not being "truly" German. Germany has no special laws relating to watches when it comes to reaching the threshold for "Made in Germany". Most German, even very expensive ones, made watches outside Glashutte are designed and assembled in Germany, but use imported internal parts and more often than not the cases are made outside Germany as well. Junghans, for example, use Swiss movements for their standard lines and very high end Seiko movements for their high end lines. Stowa is effectively Swiss made, ditto for Sinn. Add to that the German companies using the Swiss Made label instead. MeisterSinger, Steinhart and even Chronoswiss are all based in Germany, but sell under the Swiss Made label. Even in Glashutte, some of the brands skirt the requirement by adding modifications made in Glashutte which, they claim, add sufficient value to the movement to qualify under the standard. Muhle was sued for failing to meet the requirement, so they added a shrunk down swan's neck regulator (they call it a "woodpecker") and a lot of decoration on standard ETA movements to pass the test. Tutima also uses ETA/Selitta movements for many of their watches, as has Union Glashutte (which is part of Swatch group, which also owns ETA). At your budget, I would try and shop around for a Laco. I would rank them the same as Zepplin and Junkers as far as quality goes (although they do have their more expensive ranges) but they have a much longer history and were one of the original watchmakers commissioned to make the now iconic flieger watches. IMHO, Junkers is also a good call at your budget, they offer the best value for money as far as build and movement quality goes. My two German watches (although the second is marketed as "Swiss Made"):
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