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vw1978

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About vw1978

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    17 Jewel
  • Birthday 03/06/1978

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  1. Can anyone provide any information about the markings, is this a valuable watch still in its current condition, it is running ok.
  2. Hi all Im hoping someone can help give me any info on a watch i recently aquired, I'll attempt to attatch some photo's... Thanks http://
  3. I actually agree with 'silver hawk', I much prefer the originals and for what he paid he probably could of purchased an original, however it is still a really nice looking watch and I think he'll be happy to wear it.
  4. Hi all. My dad's just bought himself a Father's Day present - a Bulova Accutron II, apparently there not easy to get hold of at the minute, what's your opinion on the watch?
  5. Thanks for all the advice, but went out today only to look at a citroen c3 lx HDI and ended up coming home with it - it's a 2003 and done 63000 miles, has full service history and purchased from a car dealer, he had it up for £2000 but managed to get it for £1700 so I think I got a decent deal ( hopefully ), also had new cambelt done.
  6. I'm looking to buy a cheap, small, run around, something's that's cheap to insure, cheap road tax and the big one, cheap to run. Budget £2000 Mileage upto 90,000 I've been looking at the citroen c3 1.4 HDI, apparently they can do 65mpg, does anyone have any experience with these cars?, are they any good? Or is their a better car I should be looking at, I also looked at the vw golf diesel but they were more on insurance. All advice appreciated. Cheers
  7. I am using porcelain tiles on the wall, it does state on the box that they are suitable for bathroom walls and floors, I think I am going to have to risk it and just give it a go, my budget is already stretched so to remove all the new plaster and apply the correct backing board would cost more money that I don't have at the minute. I wish the shop selling them had some information displayed about the weight of the tiles and whether they are suitable or not for plastered walls.
  8. I'm using 2mm tile spacers, I've just spent the last hour trying to plot it all out and the best place to put all the tiles, I think it may work with doing 'brick fashion on the floor but I now have another problem I've just been told that plaster will NOT support tiles weighing more than 20kg per square meter, my tiles weigh 24kg per square meter ( and that's before adhesive and grout ), so what am I supposed to do now???? :-/ . Any ideas?
  9. Just had a plasterer in to straighten my bathroom walls out, he used bonding plaster ( this hasn't been skimmed ) to level it all out so tiling should be easier but I need to know if the bonding plaster needs priming with anything, he said use PVA 50/50 but isn't it water based? So maybe not a good idea in a bathroom? (I don't know). My other question was - I have just purchased 25 boxes of porcelain tiles 600x300 for the walls and 5 boxes 600x300 (different tiles) for the floor, I'm wanting to stack the tiles on the wall rather than 'brick fashion' and was hoping to be able to follow the grout lines through the floor, but after measuring the tiles for the floor they aren't 600x300 as advertised, they are 597x297 which unless I make the grout lines wider on the floor it's not going to work, I know it won't work when you look at the floor from the other adjoining wall because there is 2x300 tiles meeting up with a 600 tile so I would have an extra grout line to add in, but I may have gotten away with it because of the way our suite sits you don't get to see much of that wall, so now I'm not sure what to do, do I take the floor tiles back and look for something else? (Bearing in mind it's taken us weeks to pick these) or should I try and 'brick fashion' the floor and forget about try to match in grout lines? Any ideas? All advice appreciated as always Cheers.
  10. Thanks foxdog for the advice, I took the entire ceiling down the day before yesterday (messy job) and reboarded it yesterday, I decided against the vapour board as I didn't think it was needed and went for standard 12.5mm board. so that's a small part of the room done, just needs skimming now and then it's onto the tiling.
  11. Quick question, seeing that you've been there and done it, did you tile upto the bath edge or does the bath sit on top of the tiles? And the same question goes to the toilet too, did you tile under it or around it? I want to tile under the toilet but I'm worried the weight of people sitting on it will crack the tiles. Cheers
  12. Not sure how much tiling you've done, but I'd thorougly recommend the ready-mixed BAL Greenstar adhesive. It's worth the extra cost. I'd steer clear of ready-mixed grout though and buy the powder that you mix yourself. Don't forget to make sure that you seal everything with a proper acrylic primer (I used BAL because that's what they had in stock). DON'T use unibond/PVA. PVA re-activates if it gets damp (and water will find its way through the slightest imperfaction in the grout) and then it becomes a lubricant between the dried tile adhesive and the wall - and off will come the tile Thanks again Who. me?, I've used BAL Greenstar adhesive before and use the powdered mould resistant grout that you have to mix, I've done a fair bit of DIY tiling for myself before with pretty good results, so I'm hoping I still have a eye for it as it's been a few years, I did my sisters bathroom a few years ago but I didn't use any PVA, it was a newly plastered and mist painted room and I wasn't aware I should have PVA the walls, however non of the tiles have moved so far. As for the ceiling, it drops quite a lot and I would say is beyond skimming flat plus in one corner their is a meter squared of ceiling missing where the airing cupboard was, the dip in the ceiling is where the previous owner removed the wall between the bathroom and toilet to make it one room so I need to investigate it a bit further, I don't really want to rip the whole ceiling down as it's the old lat's with plaster on the ceiling which will be a right messy job to do, so I may just try to remove the 'dipping' section and overboard it all, but I'm not sure how the gyproc duplex foil backed vapour plasterboard will work if I do this???
  13. Thanks for the advice and thanks Who.Me? For giving me the idea of running pipes through the stud, if I switch things around a little I should be able to do it, I'm still keen to tile the bath panel though but I won't just be doing it as a panel, the whole bath will be sat in a timber frame and then have cement board (hardiebacker) attached to it and tiled so it will look like the bath is sat within a tiled box ( hope you get the idea). I will be using Gyproc duplex vapour plasterboard for the ceiling. No doubt I will be back with more questions along the way so thanks again for the advice so far. Cheers
  14. Just about to redo the bathroom so I'm in need of some advice. 1. I need to reboard the ceiling as it is really un-level, can I get away with using ordinary plasterboard or should I use plasterboard specific for moister laden areas. 2. I'm going to be tiling the entire bathroom including the floor and bath panel, any tips for tiling the bath panel. 3. I want to chase the shower pipes into the wall to hide them, is it better to use plastic pipe for this?. Any advice appreciated as always. Cheers
  15. Again, another great looking piece, I look forward to seeing them both when they are finished.
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