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Always"watching"

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  1. A prize like that would have been a great incentive to achieve the necessary five years perfect attendance. Very nice.
  2. Interesting, Martin, and on looking online it does seem that the USSR designation was more used on items made for export, especially to the West, with the two designations being used over the same period. I don't know when or where the idea arose that CCCP as a country of origin mark was in use earlier than USSR, with the USSR designation tending to last longer than CCCP, with a long period where the two designations were both used. As you say, the use of these marks is related to exports from the Soviet Union, and my previous understanding, now revised by your post, was not watch-related but to do with certain other Soviet products.
  3. Interesting piece of work there, Matthew, and some great watches. I have not come previously come across the Origintime website which presumably comes from Zambia, and they seem to be selling some very nice watches.
  4. Nice watch, Martin, but I think that Virgulou is specifically looking for Soviet watches marked CCCP rather than USSR. It is my understanding that the CCCP designation is generally somewhat earlier in date than USSR, but some clarification on this would be most useful.
  5. Dear @AFC2star, please note that I have moved your thread-head to the Open Forum section, which is a more suitable place for your question.
  6. Simply GORGEOUS Graham - I already liked Rado and that liking has instantly increased. Oh,and I agree that the watch looks especially lovely on that leather strap.
  7. I have just received my classically dive-styled homage GMT watch, but I neither had to pay a price nor any tax courtesy of a very generous Forum member, @NickD. Nick has kindly donated an Alpha mechanical GMT to my collection, and once it has had a few tweaks from a watch repairer it will be ready to wear; cosmetically, it is in lovely condition. Your Stuhrling looks very nice too, Jet.
  8. Thanks Alan for that clarification. I did notice the link with the Difor brand, Jet, and I am pretty sure that Stem and Lebem are also not Swiss brands/brand names - possibly French but also possibly from elsewhere. The word, "lebem", is actually a variation of the word, "leben", the German for "life", which may be the derivation for the brand name; it is also a rare surname. As for the upper case letters around the bezel of the watch, Davey is correct in that they are the initial letters for the days of the week in French. In terms of identification, I believe that the section of small upper case letters on the bezel is an anagram prefaced by the shortened BTE letter group which probably is the shortening of "Breveté" referring to a patent for the days of the week bezel. The identity of the patentee(s) could assist with the identification of these watches. This group of calendar watches is a most intriguing puzzle and further research is needed to uncover the story of the brand names found on them. Ton the Forum.hanks so much @Jet Jetski for introducing them on the Forum - I reckon you made a good purchase there.
  9. Welcome back. Looking forward to viewing your wares...
  10. I do like that watch, Jet, and although I do not yet know who produced Lebem branded watches, it is evident that there enough examples out there to make for some interesting research. The brand name appears on watches from the 1950s and 1960s, including chronographs and dive watches, and the name, "LEBEM" on the dial is sometimes accompanied by a variety of simple logos such as a trianle or a "hat." I have noted a 1950s Lebem chronograph with the word mark, "EB. SUISSE" beneath the name "LEBEM," but unfortunately the initials "EB" were used by many watch-related companies.
  11. Dear @AFC2star, Tom is essentially correct in stating that the FC-292 is the same movement as the Ronda caliber 5030 D. However, I can also tell you that Ronda produces two versions of the 5030 D, and the FC-292 is the more expensive of these; it is a gold-plated Swiss-made quartz chronograph movement with 13 jewels and a stated battery life of 54 hours. The cheaper Ronda 5030 D contains Swiss parts but is not Swiss-made; it is a nickel plated movement with 6 jewels. Both versions of the Ronda 5030 D are accurate to -10/+20 seconds per month and both are repairable metal calibers with a power-save function reducing power consumption by 70% when the crown is in the out position.
  12. Speaking personally, if I was wanting to buy one of these watches - either the re-issue or the unlimited version - I would steer well clear of the upgraded model, even though it is somewhat cheaper. The re-issue is not only more beautiful but it has genuine "discussion" value as a genuine recreation. The modern version is just a decent automatic with a dial design stolen from the earlier Raketa model.
  13. I too like the design of the small seconds Sistem51 watch, and I also like having a steel case instead of the usual plastic affair. The current UK price for the small seconds model is £170 from Swatch, and although it is probably not rational, something old-fashioned in my psyche wants a relatively uncomplicated mechanical watch at that price to be servicable/repairable. As for the case size, I agree with WRENCH that 38 mm would have been a good size, preferably with an alternative available at 42 mm.
  14. Nice one, Davey. To be honest, I don't know how you managed to choose between the many good-looking Edifice watches. Your photos are just fine.
  15. I do wonder about the accuracy of the watch at the very low temperature you quote in your post; watches tend to gain time as they become colder, and Omega generally only "guarantee" their watches down to a temperature of -20 degrees. Also, I notice that the review of the watch obtained from your link does not mention any specific measures taken by Raketa to ensure that the watch is operable at ultra-low temperatures found in the arctic/antarctic. As for the crystal, the "A Blog to Watch" review you link to refers to the crystal being acrylic, and this fits with Raketa's statement that the crystal is "organic." Neither sapphire or mineral glass crystals are organic materials. I hope you don't think I am being unduly "picky" here, and I do like the watch. What really puts me off is the price.
  16. Dear Sulie, this is a hand-wind movement and can be wound by means of the crown. The crown should be in the "in" position (as shown in your first picture) and turned clockwise for a number of turns until resistance is felt, just before the crown reaches its stopping point at maximum wind. It's wise not be gung-ho when you wind the watch, especially at first go, because you need to gauge for future reference the optimal end-point when you stop winding.
  17. Thanks for those links, John. Great watch that and a genuine Orient "first".
  18. I reckon that our friend, @spinynorman, has unravelled the story behind your watch pretty much as far as we are able to go. Annoyingly, the retailer has chosen to only put his surname on the dial, with no company/partnership information or address. This thread has been most interesting, and thanks everyone for contributing.
  19. It's funny how I thought initially that the lockdown would give me the impetus to do various jobs around the house and get on with research and writing, but somehow, I have not really settled into it. I am going for a longer walk each day than I would usually, and I have been able to complete a couple of short pieces for the Forum, but that's about it - well, apart from the necessary shopping. Tomorrow I go for a PET-CT scan to see how far my newly recurrent cancer has spread so that the oncologist can make a final decision about treatment, which has been put on hold partly because of COVID-19. Once that is out of the way, perhaps my head will be in a better place and I can start work on a more major article that I have been planning. Anyway, stay safe, everyone, and keep up the humour.
  20. I have always been a fan of the centre chronograph watch; a format that has been relatively unexplored by watch companies over the years. I was therefore well-pleased that H. Moser & Cie have decided to produce a particularly beautiful example of the genre, their new Streamliner chronograph. For now, this is the only Streamliner model but others are apparently to follow, including a three-hand timepiece. (Pic from ablogtowatch.com) The Streamliner chronograph appeared last November but was not officially launched until January this year, and any question that yet another so-called “sports-luxe” watch referencing the Seventies with an integrated case and bracelet would fall on deaf ears, so to speak, has proved to be wrong. The whole edition of 100 watches has already been sold, partly perhaps because Moser have steered away from a too direct emulation of other sports-luxe watches such as the Nautilus and Royal Oak. Indeed, the use of the centre chronograph in this context would appear to be an inspired choice. The Moser & Cie Streamliner chronograph is powered by Agenhor’s intricate and sophisticated AgenGraphe movement - the third model to use it (after Fabergé and Singer Reimagined) In the case of the Streamliner, this caliber has been engineered for a far less complex display than the Fabergé Visionnaire or Singer Track 1; it loses the rotating disks for hours and minutes, with hands for chronograph hours and running seconds disappearing altogether. Instead we have four central hands for hours, minutes, and chronograph minutes and seconds, plus the novel introduction of a centre flyback function for both chronograph minute and second hands. Moser calls this version of the AgenGraph movement caliber HMC 902. (Pics from static.watchtime.com and, below, Monochrome Watches at k8q7r7a2.stackpathcdn.comcdnstackpath.com) In terms of style, the Streamliner is influenced by bullhead designs (partly out of necessity), and Edouard Meylan, CEO at Moser, has himself referenced the Omega Chronostop bullhead chronograph as an influence on its design, as well as sports stopwatches from the Sixties and Seventies. In connection with styling, Meylan had to deal with the inevitable thickness of automatic chronograph movements even though the AgenGraphe is relatively slim at 7.3 mm, with the watch itself coming in at 14.2 mm thick. This size, together with the curving lines, gives the Steamliner a bulbous feel that could have been off-putting. The solution to this lies essentially in the superb integrated bracelet. I am aware that I can only gauge the Streamliner’s steel bracelet from illustrations and description, which in this case is a disadvantage because I feel that special attention needs to be focused on it. It reminds me of those slinky segmented silver bendy fish pendants or even fossil trilobites and Chris Hall gives a good description in his QP article on Moser (“Rise of the maverick,” QP magazine issue 93, Spring 2020): The bracelet “possesses an organic quality that I’ve never seen elsewhere. The closest I can think of is the hand-worked gold bracelets of the Fifties - think Andrew Grima’s work for Piaget, or various textured designs for Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet among others - but where they stood static as trees or stone, this glides like a fish, light rippling off the thin, finely polished strip at the base of each link. / The clasp is unobtrusive, the bracelet comfortable - your arm hairs are safe! - and despite that thick case, the immediate drop from caseband to links, without lugs, means it wraps closely to the wrist. It will be an unholy task to keep it looking mint, but the Streamliner has real showstopper quality”. I should also just add that the rear view of the movement through the display crystal is pretty nice too. (Pics from ablogtowatch.com and, below, revolution.watch) H. Moser & Cie have produced something special with the Streamliner chronograph, and it is only a shame that more of us won’t be able to share in the act of owning one, partly because of the price and partly because the edition is limited to 100. The firm and its boss have spun a marvel of maintaining continuity with previous watch styling that has returned to favour while also giving us a highly legible and functional chronograph wristwatch that is a thing of beauty in itself. If, as a final note, I churlishy wonder if a date feature could be added, then send me away with a flea in my ear. SPECIFICATION NOTES: The specifications not mentioned above are as follows: 42.3 mm stainless steel case; graded fumée grey dial with vertical brushing; hand inserts made from “Globolight,” a mix of Super LumiNova and ceramic; 55J automatic movement made by Agenhor comprising 434 components with rotor just beneath the dial; water resistance 12 ATM; price, US$39,900; (Pic from ablogtowatch.com) (Pic from hodinkee.imgix.net) (Above two pics from hodinkee.imgix.net)
  21. I just wonder, are there any musical wristwatches out there? It might be rather tricky to fit a musical complication into a mechanical wristwatch but I reckon a quartz watch could be fitted with a small musical element.
  22. Careful Davey, you're on dangerous ground there... I took ENORMOUS trouble to write a Forum topic about the Rolex spoons but as you are not interested, I won't give you the reference.
  23. The sublime Heuer silver dial mid-sixties chronograph on which the new Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition is based (pic from fratellowatches.imgix.net): The Heuer (later, TAG Heuer) Carrera chronograph has become one of the iconic motorsport-derived watches; it is named after the Carrera Panamericana, a Mexican border-to-border road race reminiscent of Italy’s Mille Miglia and Targa Florio, and the first run of Carrera chronographs dates to 1963. The design of the Heuer Carrera is recognised horologically and also as an important example of mid 20th century modern watch styling. Writing in his autobiography in 2013, the creator of the Carrera, Jack Heuer, recalled; “I wanted a dial that had a clear, clean design and a new technical invention came to my aid. A manufacturer of plastic watch crystals had invented a steel tension ring that fitted inside the crystal and kept it under tension against the surrounding steel case. I decided to use the inside bevel of this tension ring to carry the markings measuring one-fifths of a second… this was the secret behind the fresh, clean and uncluttered appearance of my first ‘Carrera’”. (Pics from ablogtowatch.com) Uhrenmanufakture Heuer AG was founded by Edward Heuer (grandfather of Jack Heuer quoted above) in 1860, and to celebrate the 160th anniversary of this birth of this company, TAG Heuer has released a recreation of the renowned monochrome silver-dial Carrera chronograph of 1964, featuring the original’s three counters and starburst silver-coloured dial, but with certain aesthetic and functional changes or updates discussed below, including a fundamental change of movement from the Ref. 2447S Valjoux hand-wind caliber that powered the 1964 original. This new commemorative model is the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition chronoraph (shortened to Carrera 160th in this topic). The visible changes from the original silver dial Carrera due to the use of a recent caliber are the case size (up from 36 mm to 39 mm) and the swap of the running seconds register from 9 to 6 o’clock. The new Carrera 160th uses a true in-house chronograph movement which had been long in gestation, the Heuer 02. This movement started life as the caliber 1969 before being renamed the CH80; it’s final development was then put on hold for a while at about the time Jean-Claude Biver became CEO at TAG Heuer, until it finally made its debut in the 2017 TAG Heuer Heritage Autavia Caliber Heuer 02 Chronograph. The chronograph caliber Heuer 02 is a pedigree movement with column wheel, vertical clutch, and 75/80 hours power reserve; it represents an original TAG Heuer product as opposed to the earlier caliber Heuer 01, which was based on a Seiko movement. Other changes from the original 1964 silver-dial Carrera series are an improvement in “fineness” to the recessed sub-dials, hands and markers, the inclusion of a screw-down sapphire display caseback (through which the redesigned oscillating weight is visible) and a domed sapphire crystal, and a minor change in the shape of the minute and hour hands. Water resistance on the new Carrera 160th is a respectable 100 metres, and the hands and main markers are lumed with Super-LumiNova. (Pics below from ablogtowatch.com and, bottom, steffans.co.uk) Twenty years ago, TAG Heuer was focusing on tech-forward design with high-tech aesthetics rather than looking back at its heritage for inspiration. However, since then, the Heritage line has been introduced and the company has been catering to the considerable audience that enjoys the recreation of classic watches from the past. The TAG Heuer Carrera 160th is not an out-and-out reproduction of a classic, but it fulfils sufficient heritage criteria to place it in the Carrera line of descent from the original. Making no bones about the fact that this is an anniversary limited edition, the caseback is engraved with, “1 of 1860” and the oscillating weight has been redesigned and also carries the celebration message; I personally would have preferred a solid steel caseback given the aesthetic "clumsiness" of the "steering wheel" weight design and the fact that the back of the movement is not particularly attractive as a display item. The Carrera 160th is presented on a black alligator strap and is priced at £5,620 - a sum that might be the elephant in the room for some potential purchasers. I would estimate that the 1,860 buyers of this limited edition will be found after it comes on sale in June, and will comprise a satisfied tranch of customers; this watch carefully treads the line between historical homage to its predecessor and modern chronograph and, apart from the overdone display back, gets it just about right. (Pics from ablogtowatch.com and, below, s1.cdn.autoevolution.com)
  24. I've been with Kristina for nigh on 37 years but haven't received my gold Rolex, nor even a set of nice pens. What have I been doing wrong?
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