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stromspeicher

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About stromspeicher

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  1. I recently bought a Made in Great Britain 1960ish Timex 'Self-Wind' that I want to clean. It has an M29 Automatic movement. I read on the internet that I can clean it with balance and mainspring in situ (with balance screw backed off a little..) Is this right? I'm OK with normal jewelled watches but this old Timex pin lever seems to be designed to NOT be taken apart. Also, does anyone know if the balance screw (part of the V conic system..) is loosened with a normal anti-clockwise turn? I don't want to crunch the balance pivot with an amateur move... The Dial and Auto bridge are off, but I thought I'd pause now and seek wisdom before I break something.
  2. I've recently tinkered with a 2610 which is basically the same as your movement. If the hairspring is OK then reassembly from where you are is very much doable. I actually did it this way on mine instead of removing the stud, because I couldn't get the stud out without serious hairspring damage risk - it was either glued in or wedged in with a press, the stud screw was basically irrelevant. A tack to hold the bridge whilst pressing down on the assembly with the flat of a screwdriver was how I did it. You need to take the regulator off the hairspring before you do anything - that'll also let you assess the state of the hairspring properly. Those shock springs are a bit of a nightmare. The old Soviet and Chinese ones seem to break much more easily than any European ones. If you get a donor movement then you will have two - there is another one on the dial side mount. I do have most of the parts left from the 2609 donor that I bought to do my 2610 but I'd have to dig it out to see exactly what. I know the staff is broken so no easy outs there. I know I broke a dialside shock spring on disassembly, but can't remember if one or both were broken in the end. The last bit of wisdom I can offer on these is that they seem to have had a factory-fit shim under the balance bridge to set the height. I don't see one in your photo which might mean its not needed on your watch, or that its missing... Worth bearing in mind as you tighten up that balance bridge screw. Good luck with the fix. I'm not the best person to advise on technique, but let me know if you or your chosen repairman get stuck for parts and I'll have a proper look in my box. There should be a date code on the movement plate next to the balance, I forget the exact format.
  3. I'm looking for recommendations for servicing and repair of a LIP 'Nautic Ski' Electronic watch in UK. Paul @ Electric Watches is only taking on ESA hummers at the moment. I think the movement should be straightforward, but I need someone who can extract/drill a broken stem from a crown and fit a new one. Not in a hurry, perhaps Jan/Feb, just now got to the top of the pile in my outbox. I know there are other folks that people use/recommend for general watch servicing, but I've no personnal experience here. ? Thanks
  4. Hmmm, haven't really posted in a while... nice of Photobucket to unilaterally destroy years of useful information. I couldn't work out how to edit the image links in my original post to imgbb. I guess all of my old posts are broken now as well
  5. Ricoh Riquartz, the Hisonic killer - Ricoh really were pioneers in the Japanese quartz revolution and it was only when the massive size and resources of Seiko and much later, Citizen came into play were they eclipsed. Seiko famously released the Astron Quartz in late 1969, priced at 450000 yen. Even with the introduction of this first 'mass-produced' quartz watch there was an apparent reluctance within Citizen to accept the revolution, assuming that quartz would remain very expensive and hence niche. Against this background Bulova and Citizen joined together in 1970 to further develop tuning fork watches. In 1970 there were no quartz models below Seikos 150,000 yen cal 38xx watches so Citizen figured that a decent tuning fork watch in the sub 100,000 yen range would be viable even if slightly less accurate than quartz(Citizen themselves didn't produce quartz watches until 1973, partly because they invested their efforts instead with their Hisonics). On June 23rd 1970, a very large factory was set up by the Bulova-Citizen JV in Yamanashi Prefecture with a capital investment of 90 million yen. In 1971, a further 270 million yen was invested and hisonic sales began st the end of 1971 at a price of about 50,000 yen much cheaper than both quartz watches (over 100000 yen) and Bulova Accutron models (about 90000 yen). At this stage upto 500000 hisonics were produced a year by a workforce of over 300 people. Two months after the hisonic release in December 1971, Ricoh released the Riquartz 550 which at 90000 yen was the first quartz watch below 100000 yen. Seiko chased the Riquartz prices but in 1972 were still at 100000 yen with their cal 39xx models. Citizen did eventually bring hisonic prices down to about 20000 yen with mass production economies, but their efforts were matched by both Ricoh and Seiko with their quartz watches and by the mid-1970s prices were more or less the same for quartz and hisonic watches. The writing was on the wall and Citizen, by this time was piling resources into quartz and digital development. There was no possibility of improving the performance of the tuning fork technology upto the sub 1 minute a month accuracies of mass-produced quartz and with price parity, Hisonic sales crashed. Despite their massive investment in the project, Bulova and Citizen were forced to abandon the project in 1977. [Ricoh 550 advert - circa 1972 showing 550002 and 550003 models] [Second generation Riquartz 570 watches including models below 50000 yen] [A couple of 550003 watches from 1972 on the right including one of the signature stone-dialled designs. On the left is the daddy-the original Riquartz 550001 from 1971]
  6. Still no expert on the Anti-Shock things but a bit of bored googling has more or less answered my own question. The main archive I found is in German, so I'll convey the essential information - it seems to be a variant of the 'Shock-Resist' system introduced by Swiss firm Erismann Schinz. This firm has anti-shock patents going back to the late 20s, it seems this one was patented at the end of the 1929. Here is a promotion from 1930, The trademarks for the system were registered in 1934 and 1936 so it was still apparently going strong then - https://watch-wiki.org/images/a/a1/Fabrique_Du_Grenier._FH_20_Sept._1930.jpg So that seems to chime with the case hallmark date then, of course its also not impossible that there could be a couple of years between case hallmarking and building it up into a watch.. No idea on the base movement I'm afraid. If you want to find some of the other old shock-protection info, try googling Stoßsicherung.
  7. What about the shock protection - might point to a movement manufacturer or help to narrow down the dates a little? I'm no expert on early shock protection systems but I would generally expect a late twenties/early thirties watch to have fixed (screwed) caps on the balance pivots. Also, the movement seems to have a curious extra screw through the barrel bridge?
  8. You can see the back of the movement is marked with 942711. That is the movement number, it was made by ESA in the late 70s and is a 942.711. This movement (with chronograph) was widely used (along with the chrono-less but somewhat more reliable ESA9315) in many of the then flagging swiss watch brands. You can find them in everything from Roamer to Rotary to Avia to Zodiac to Tissot to Longines to Breitling to Catena Spacemen. Like a lot of the 70s Swiss quartz stuff, they're not terribly sought after unless they're one of the really famous brands or models. Still its a nice, interesting early swiss digital.
  9. I have some parts but they're all headed for Ebay soon. I'm not able to actually do any repair work but could supply a .pdf of the service manual if you find someone to look at it for you. I think one of my parts watches is reapairable but I'm not 100% sure - I just have my old scribbled notesto go by. I'm not able to actually check it in any way at the moment.
  10. These old quartzes are relatively straightforward to service as long as the coil and circuit are OK and as long as there isn't massive battery leakage or massive water ingress damage.Replacement day discs are hard to come by.I'm not particularly skilled but have repaired many over the years. Unfortunately I'm not actually working on any watches at the moment though. THE Coil can be replaced with parts from cheaper and more common 8620 movements.The circuit and some other parts are unique to this movement.
  11. Good luck getting a 3D model from the manudacturer.Why not stick an hour hand on the thing and get your Digital Vernier out. not as rock'n'Roll as dimensioning from a 3D model, but I don't think their Spam filter will interfere too much this way
  12. Another interesting watch to add to this thread - a non-F300 Seamaster. It looks like a pretty standard 198.001 Seamaster but with a non -F300 dial. the case and case markings are all pretty standard for a 198.001, just the dial branding. The standard case parts here suggest that the de-F300ing of these Japanese market watches was simply a marketing thing rather than being supply-chain related.
  13. If you're looking for something more 'exotic' you can also find the 198.741 hummer in an "Electrogolf" variant. Looks similar but has a black dial with "Omega Chronometer" at the top of the dial and "Electrogolf" at the bottom, no applied Star and no "Swiss Made" on the dial. I've seen a few for sale over the years, so not that rare. There is obviously some kind of story behind them, not sure what. When one spends a lot of time looking at Japanese auctions these kind of things start to look normal
  14. Not sure about the issue of Bulova license text on the case. I know its not there on any Hisonics, perhaps it was considered enough to have it on the movement.
  15. They're much less common than the familiar F300 models, but there's enough of these on the Japanese auctions that they must have been made in reasonable numbers. Here's the inside case-back marking of the 198.741 - just the number and an enigmatic (K).
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