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Everything posted by Daveyboyz

  1. It won't be a quick process but I will be using a fret saw, a soldering torch and hand tools. If it can be made in precious metals I can do it except I am limited by not having access to a full workshop. I will keep updating this thread with photos as it progresses.
  2. The logic is that I want the watch to be slim, the crown will be hidden so a wind up won't be convenient. Presently I don't have a quartz watch in my collection. I also don't have the tooling or knowledge to produce a mechanical movement from scratch so if I am buying a unit I may as well buy a decent quartz unit that can be set and need no further attention. As to the hallmarking. If I send it after fabrication it will fail because I intend to use silver and silver solder for some parts of the case (the bezel around the glass for instance) if I send a piece of 18ct and a piece of silver I can place them where I want...for instance the gold hallmark will be in the middle of the back and the silver hallmark will be inside on the housing for the movement.. It won't limit me in the least. I know it is a little unorthadox to have silver and gold in the same watch but using white gold instead of silver would take the gold content from £1000 to double that as well as some more in wastage. The logic with the precious metals is I know how to work with them and if I am going to spend the amount of hours on this that it will take me then the materials may as well be as valuable as the time I am putting into them. It would be harder for me to assemble in steel... nickel would be the cheap option but gold is more attractive.
  3. Well it looks like I am going to attempt making a watch. I have never done it before but will feel my way through. I have been thinking about it for some days and can't think of any insurmountable problems. It will be a quartz for various reasons and the watchmaking will be minimal (attaching hands, trimming stems) the other aspects will be more strenuous. I am just ordering some stuff... 18ct yellow gold 30mm x 30mm x 0.7mm (£757.10+VAT) 9ct white gold 25mm x 25mm x 0.5mm (for dial £80.47+VAT) Silver sheet 1000mm x 1000mm x 1mm (£81.47+VAT) 3 x Sapphire mineral domed glasses When my metal is recieved I will be sending the back and two strips of silver for hallmarks. This just dates the thing and ties the origins to London. I have the basic design in my head but will need to order movements before finalising the dimensions. Multiple glasses by the way as I may break or experiment with them.
  4. Yes, I do feel I am missing a Breguet. I was looking at the Marine or switching my speedy for a type XX. I just can seem to make room. My collection needs reducing but I can't bear to let much go.
  5. Thats why they are nicknamed "the Indian Rolex" they are aspirational in the east.
  6. I always associate Rado with their ceramic watches. My friend has one... Ceramic is durable and typically these watches are slim quartz movts and comfortable.
  7. I see, well there is nothing new under the sun... the idea of having the crown between the two cases is not original, nor clipping the two together. However that has a square glass and I want a round one... I guess it is a rather basic question about how to securely fit a glass but its outside of my experience. I guess I should have a chat with my watchmaker.
  8. I thought I would jot down my initial thoughts. The construction of the watch is somewhat comparable to a match box with the outer sleeve made from 18ct gold and the sliding part in silver housing the movement. At the six o'clock end a pair of spring bars inside the case lock it home and to get to the movement simple requires these to be released and it slides out. At the other end the lugs are detachable with two buttons which operate a pair of box catches. This means the strap will be a single piece with no buckle. I am thinking the crown will be at 12 o clock and exposed when the strap is undone. Measurements are 30 x 30 in gold but with an extra 2mm either end in silver plus the lugs. Maybe I am being cheap using silver and I should use white gold instead.... In order to keep the thickness down (for some reason 8mm thick seems appropriate to me) I guess a quartz eta would be the way to go. Still I come back to the glass. I am not sure how to fit it. It could go in the drawer with the movement or in the sleeve. To hand cut and file a circle in the sleeve to the precision required seems a stretch. How thick I make the dial (I was thinking of using copper for it) and how much space is required to accommodate the hands is also necessary information before I even think of ordering some metal.
  9. Well if I ever do it I will make a thread on it... One thing I might do is have a strap with no buckle... the lugs will slot into the case with a button each side (a bit like a clip on a rucksack) to release it. This is not hard to do, I wonder why I have never seen it before.
  10. This was the closest so far. I couldn't part with the Royal Oak, it holds a lot of memories for me and I think its pretty much a perfect watch. The Pasha probably brings me the most joy of all these watches too... not sure why but I think it is a beautiful thing (even with that cyclops) The third is tough... the JLC master calendar is a good shout...but for setting it... in a one watch collection it would be the bee's knees but the Calatrava edges it out for me. The Speedy is cool but tbh the seamaster makes more sense if looking for a practical everyday wearer. Overseas equally is a great watch but a bit lumpy for everyday. @mitadoc my mum has a steel and gold reverso manual wind... its not an oversize one but suits me perfectly... I have been known to borrow it.
  11. So far some interesting answers. The vintage ones are getting more love than I expected, the JLC moonphase is particularly popular too. (Note to self I need to wear it more often... ) @yokel Is our taste so different? I think out of everybody on here I'd probably favour your watches to most on here. The fact many were assembled in Germany rather than Switzerland isn't really here nor there the style is there.
  12. The movement end of things is probably beyond me, both in terms of understanding and tooling. I would probably simply opt for an ETA. The case however I believe I could produce in gold and silver using basic hand tools (a set of mills would be very useful but sheet materials can be bought at various thicknesses and I can solder and file etc) It would be a time consuming process but I have some interesting ideas for construction... either mounting the lugs to the caseback, having a sandwich type affair, another idea where the movement and everything slides into the case which is open along one edge... a rectangular case with a round dial in the centre of it... I have many ideas of how to assemble these cases, none are seemingly beyond me but all would be time consuming. Importantly they would be original solutions because the range of things I can do dictates limits in some directions which require design work arounds. I am trying to work out what the dimensions would be. Allowing for 1mm of material front and back, 3.6mm for a movement, 0.5mm for a dial (I can imagine a lot of possibilities for that) I need a sapphire glass (whats that 1mm?) and space for the hands but I am unsure how much to allow.
  13. There was a thread up about all designs looking like others etc not so long ago. It got me thinking about how I would build a watch if I were going to. The design I have in my head doesn't look like any watch I ever saw because its form follows the function and solutions to assembly. You see I have skills as a jeweller but I never made a watch. I know how to work with precious metals and I could use these techniques to form a watch case but for instance I haven't the tools to thread a case back etc so these limitations would necessitate a less common assembly. Now I have a design in my head... I don't know if I will put it into practice... I don't have access to a jewellers bench and equipment presently... but It may nag away at me.... maybe I will just produce a component at a time and eventually produce a watch... maybe it will just stay as a design project. Anyway my question is. On a watch with a dial size of 36mm, assuming I would be using dauphine hands and there is nothing raised on the dial (markers would be inbedded) how much space should I allow between the glass and the dial to accommodate the hands?
  14. I am not about to do this but I was thinking about which watches I could part with and the answer was not very many. I therefore decided to think about it another way. If there was a fire and I could only save 3 watches which would they be? Well the most expensive three is the obvious answer but money aside it isn't the three I would choose. Anyway I wondered which three you lot would pick if you could steal three. I wonder if any of you can select the three I have in my head. Box 1 1. Patek Gondolo 5111r manual wind 2. Patek Calatrava 5107g auto 3. Audermars Royal Oak 14790st auto 4. JLC master calendar moonphase 18ct white gold auto 5. Seiko snowflake springdrive 6. Cartier Pasha 18ct yellow auto 7. Rolex Polar explorer II 16570 auto 8. Vacheron Constantine Overseas 49140 9. Omega seamaster midsize auto 10. Omega speedmaster MOTM manual Seiko cocktail time auto Box 2 1. Longines 1921 manual wind 2. Omega constellation 14ct 1966 auto 3. IWC platinum pilot manualwind 1960 4. Rolex 9ct extraprima rectangular 1923 manual 5. Universal Geneve 18ct polerouter 1959 auto 6. JLC 18ct Memovox 1950's auto This is for fun only, I think I would sell a kidney before I reduce to three.
  15. I only had one that I didn't get on with an no photo of it. It was a blue dial omega seamaster chronograph. Full size thing was quite a lump and too heavy for me. I am not sure whether it was due to the shape of the back (a little domed) or just the weight but I found it uncomfortable. I switched it for a chronomat in the end.
  16. The second is pretty good looking. Any new watch day is usually a good day, congratulations
  17. That is truly ugly, and bereft of any class whatsoever.
  18. I am not sure how that's piercing my bubble. As I was clear to point out it isn't everyone... just a large % of fanboys. Rolex and Breitling seem to be magnets for similar attitudes. As I say I don't fault their watches (even if some are too big for my humble wrist)
  19. I like the dial, I tend to agree that the hour hand sucks. The price too, it's not value for that money.
  20. I couldn't tell you the accuracy of any of my watches except for the Grand Seiko Springdrive... I happen to have set it only once, due to the 72 hour power reserve and leaving it on the winder a couple of times. It is out 8 seconds since I bought it (when was that? A month or 6 weeks back?) I remember when I only had my Royal oak I would adjust it every couple of months. Now I have a collection I don't wear most long enough to notice any deviation. The answer though is to buy a manual wind. If you wind it every day there isn't much hardship in adjusting it.
  21. I can't remember the brands off the top of my head but they are decent.
  22. Just a little write up for my experience today at Cartier. My mum has long had a Ballon Bleu of the imitation variety which I have ridiculed and told her she should have the real thing. After she brought me her Cartier Panthere which she wanted a link removed from, I decided not to mangle the screw heads with a screwdriver clearly too big and told her we should pop down to Bond Street. The first shop in New Bond Street said we should visit the boutique in Old Bond Street but were happy to sell us a watch. This still has its plastic protection on it... the watch now comes in a multitude of sizes... from memory 28m 33mm 36mm 42mm and now they are adding and inbetween size 40mm or so. This is a 33mm one. Having tried on all the sizes it seemed appropriate. They would not reduce the price by a single penny... I guess thats as expected. Getting a secondhand one is not really an option though as we have looked around and there aren't many available. The salesman was very professional but a little dry, he rang up the other boutique and we walked down there to have a link taken from the Panthere. The girl there had lots of charisma and enthusiasm for the brand. Link taken out and no charge. My mum is happy with her new watch and though I know it was no particular steal she got what she wanted and thats the main thing.
  23. Seiko Presage Cocktail time. Of course it isn't for you but for many its got the best dial of the sub £500 category.
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