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Bedford

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  1. Thanks for your input mate, Ended up taking out the train and the rotor and sticking them in the ultrasonic. Must have been some dirt within one of the gears stopping the teeth meshing properly. All fixed Cheers
  2. Hi mate, removed the seconds hand and the time does not advance. Just stripped the back and noted that on turning the wheels by hand, so far long the process the intermediate wheel is becoming jammed. I took out the intermediate wheel and continued to turn the second and third wheel which moved freely with no jam, so Im pretty confident the problem only arises when the intermediate wheel is in. I checked the teeth of the second wheel and they all look in good shape as do the teeth and gear on the intermediate wheel. Any ideas?
  3. Hi all, I've got a quartz ETA 455.412 movement - everything appears to be in good shape until the seconds hand reaches around 12 seconds and then it just stops. I pulled the crown into the second position and pushed it back in a few times and I can see that it's itching to move but it can't. On further inspection I noticed that if you gave the seconds hand a slight nudge it would go past this point and then cycle around until it reached the same point and stopped again. I thought that the hand might be magnetised at first but after giving it a nudge there is a definite resistance and a little bit of a click as it pushes past the point. Any ideas before i dismantle it? Cheers Jae
  4. Hello All, Got a bit of a funny one with a seiko 7F39 moon phase movement. The stem keeps falling out, I've had it open and tried to diagnose. As far as I can see, the Setting lever is catching the stem in the first position but as soon as I pull it into the second time setting position it doesn't catch and just falls out. The Yolk is properly attached to the clutch so I can't see that is the problem. Could it be that the setting lever is just bit worn? I'm thinking about bending the lip that catches the stem so it stays engaged. I'd rather not bodge it but I can't find any replacement parts or movements, or even if there are any non seiko movements out there that can replace it. Any help would be great, this ones giving me a bit of headache. Cheers
  5. I think I’ll fix the crystal and put it on a mesh band, then stick it back on eBay if I’m being totally honest. Should get more than I paid for
  6. Seller wasn’t from India, but that doesn’t mean they didn’t buy it from someone in India, I’m pretty sure it’s reworked and and a fake dial, I don’t recall ever seeing this watch - and there’s very little detail online about them. The movement isn’t oris either it’s Solvil Ey Titus so I don’t think the Cali de movement provide any better insight. Thank you though
  7. I agree with you there most of the time. But as for it being an oris, sometimes the prices aren’t that hot.. you can pick up some older oris watches surprisingly cheap. Especially so with this being listed as broken (glass) and sometimes that’s the luck of online auctions.. i just need help identifying it really, I’ve seen a couple of these dials online from google searches but nothing with reference numbers or names - it’s a bit of an anomaly.
  8. So, I tend to have a couple of gambles on fleabay, especially when the price is low. Track record is about 50-50 some genuine some franken watches, some fakes. Before me I have an Oris watch, with a dial that I've never seen before.. I managed to get hold of it for £15, knowing that it works however there's a crack in the glass. But that's not a problem £5 for a new crystal and bobs your uncle. I received the watch today and straight away I had three flags. 1) The dial, I've just never seen it before 2) Reference numbers, there's not a thing. Not on the caseback - on the dial, or in the case 3) inside the watch is a Solvil et Titus, 17 jewel movement, now I don't know too much about the actual movement, but in my estimates Solvil et Titus are fairly respectable watches. However my next thought was, were Oris using these movements in their earlier watches? Because I know they have been know to outsource, more recently they've been using ETA and Sellita Movements. Or is it a donor movement? The pictures are identical to the watch that I bought and the movement that is inside. Any insights would be appreciated.
  9. Could somebody please tell me the difference between these two longines legend divers? I notice that the dials are signed differently at the automatic - can anyone explain why or which watch is “better” thank-you Okay, so I just read up that they added this 30 bar bit to the dial in 2013 or thereabouts - but after some deliberation and customer dissatisfaction they dropped it back off... what does anyone think about this becoming a rare model some day?
  10. He also lost his glasses whilst he was on the beach that day too, so I think he thinks that's a sign of the world righting its wrongs haha. As I say I didn't find it and it's not my dad so I don't really have much say in telling him to find the owner but i'll do my best to persuade. Also thanks, I guess when i put the minute hand in after adjusting the hour hand I put it back in at the 9 position, Rookie mistake
  11. So my friends Dad found a Certina Chronlympia circa 1971 8501-503, on the beach in the south of the UK believe it or not. Anyway I've had a tinker with it and managed to fix a loose hour hand and polish the acrylic and the case up. The only problem is that when I push the chrono function to send the second hand back to the 12 position it actually flies back to the 9 instead, and I can't work out how to alter this. I've tried pulling the crown out and pushing the 'A' button to send it forward but all that does is start the second hand up again. if anyone has any ideas that would be great.
  12. Thanks my bearded friend, I guess you can put the spring in without the sleeve. Thanks again
  13. Okay so I bought Seiko 7002J/A thats bezel clicks by a tiny ball bearing and and spring, not like the circular leaf springs; but I'm sure you all know this. The Seiko I bought doesn't have The spring or ball (which I was aware of) however as far as I'm aware there should be a metal sleeve that the springs sits in, inside the hole. I don't have this either. So my question is, can I still put the spring and ball in without the sleeve and if not, where could I get the sleeve that should be there All the best, Jae
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