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About Royston

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  1. Among a batch of watches and parts that I bought recently is one containing the movement shown below. It's about 8.5''' and is identical in layout and bridge shapes to three other examples I have which are 10'''. This one is missing the hour wheel (cunningly concealed below a retro-bodge H. Moser dial) in a very nice square case, possibly platinum or palladium. The consensus, slim though it is, is that these are LeCoultre ebauches. Given that I have at least four of them they can't be that obscure. I've seen Schild 17 J movements that weren't very different to these. So far I've been unable to get a definitive identification - assuming that may be possible. Any informed opinions welcomed. Roy Oh dear, external hosting required... life too short.
  2. Thanks but you've misinterpreted the question (or, more likely, I've not expressed it clearly). I'm not talking about a specific watch. I'm observing this phenomenon (ie Timegrapher indicates highly advanced but watch runs very slowly) on numerous elderly movements. Put another way the Timegrapher figures are the opposite of the observed real world performance. It's this discrepancy that puzzles me. Roy
  3. I'm by no means a watchmaker although I try to get better rather than worse. I've found the Timegrapher very useful as a diagnostic tool, at least to the degree of seeing how healthy (often otherwise) a movement is. But I'm consistently seeing something that strikes me as very anomalous. With a fairly sick movement showing a considerable degree of advance - in the hundreds - face up, in reality the same movement in the same position is actually running extremely slowly - say > -1hr pd. I've seen this over numerous different movements. I'm beginning to think this may be an "out of range" software problem in the Timegrapher's brain. Any advice? Whilst I'm here am I correct in thinking that "good" balance amplitude is in the same range irrespective of the movement's frequency? Roy
  4. Hi there I'm new here too. I've been collecting and dealing (in a smallish way) mostly wristwatches but a friend and I have accumulated lots of stuff over the years. I'm pretty ignorant about pocket watches but in general terms I'd say you'd be better advised to buy one or two much less expensive examples initially in order to get familiar with them. Pocket watches are, broadly speaking, remarkably good value compared to wristwatches and there are lots available - obviously ebay would be the first port of call where you'll find dozens, if not hundreds. Add the ones that take your fancy to your, er, watch list and you can see how the bidding and final prices evolve; costs nothing and it will rapidly give you an insight into the market. Buying one high-end example you could easily make an expensive blunder unless you know someone honest with serious expertise in the field. I've made some horrible mistakes. I'm an ex motorcyclist too. Also an ex resident of Tasmania, many years back. I still dream about the place. Roy
  5. Sorry about the dupes - doesn't seem possible to delete them. Mods feel free to do so.
  6. Hi to all, this is my first post on the forums here. For starters here are some pix of a really nice English Hunter picked up recently. Pocket watches aren't really my thing so I don't know much about this one except what's visible. It's in really nice condition and I don't recall seeing a similar example. Unfortunately I forgot to photograph the dial plate whilst it was dismantled which I recall having the movement maker's signature. The Dennison "Moon" case is extremely well preserved and has definitely exceeded its 20 year warranty! I haven't done a full service, just a cleanup and relubrication but it runs pretty well - if not when viewed on a Timegrapher. The balance looks sluggish and the amplitude shows at about 175 deg face up. As for the beat error, don't ask. But overall for so little effort, not a casualty. Any information would be appreciated. Roy Oh dear - need to use a hosting site for pix.
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