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About julian2002

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  1. 3 kinds of gmt (discounting world timers) 1) Those like the Vostok above and original Rolex GMT master where the normal hour and minute hands are linked to a 24 hour hand. Then a 24 hour rotating bezel allows a 2nd time zone to be set by aligning the bezel with the current time in that time zone in 24 hour time. 2) Office GMT. This is the majority of the GMT's out there. This allows the normal hour and minute hands to be adjusted as normal (movement stops / hacks while adjusting) and the 24 hour hand can be skipped forwards (sometimes backwards) to match a distant time zone without h
  2. My most 'complicated' watch is a travelers GMT with big date. That's about as far as I'd want to go as it makes sense in context. I'm not a huge fan of chronograph's and think tourbillions are pretty but are useless and 'pretty' can become 'tacky' very easily.
  3. If you are travelling then the most convenient is a travelers gmt where the main hour hand can be adjusted without hacking the movement (making adjustment of the local time display easier) . These are extraordinarily rare however your best bet would be a Seiko kinetic gmt which can be found pre-owned for your budget. The cheapest auto Travelers GMT's use the new swatch group movement in Certina, Hamilton and Mido watches (the Mido being the one I'd choose) but these are massively over budget at approaching 1k ukp. An 'office' GMT where the 24 hour hand can be moved without hacking the mov
  4. If you're truly going to beat it to death then something like a casio fw91 or a fitness band like the honor band 5. If you want something that can take a few knocks but will brush up nice then there's thousands of options. Personally I'd go for something like a steeldive(or similar) tuna.
  5. Yeah I believe Breitling now use a bitcoin like blockchain instead of a warranty card. I wish more manufacturers did this, it makes authentication and service history so much easier. Congratulations on your purchase, I love mine and wear it often, even around the house. Wear in good health.
  6. Not done this in a while so... Ulysse Nardin Dual Time with ‘El-Toro’ style dial. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Here's my 46mm B20 Bought from an AD (Ernest Jones) so I have no doubts about it's authenticity. The 'B' logo is yellow gold and the date wheel is white. I understand that the date wheel changed colour (to the dial colour iirc) in a later minor update but don't know about the logo. The lack of warranty 'card' is understandable if you bought from a 'grey' dealer as they wouldn't have the facility to activate it and probably didn't even receive it from their supplier. I would definitely chase the COSC certificate and I'd also be tempted to get the piece authenticated ind
  8. I have one of these that I'm going to build at some point... https://wooden-gear-clocks.com/
  9. Personally I'd buy a 'Parnis homage' from bay or Ali for under £100 and see if you like how it wears. They are easy to sell on if you decide it's not for you or if you decide on the 'real thing'. I bought a spinnaker hull 'radiomir like' and just cant get on the with the tall case / short lugs, it just sits badly on my rounded wrist top. Your price is as has been said above a little optimistic I feel, unfortunately that kind of pricing puts you right in the strike zone for scammers (expensive enough to seem real, cheap enough for you to not to want to miss a bargain) so either buy from a
  10. Bisto Village is a dangerous place...
  11. I have a small, eclectic collection ranging from Ulysse Nardin and Breitling to Smiths and Spinnaker. There is a definite jump in quality between say the Smiths and the UN. Not to say the Smiths is bad (it's really very good) but the finishing and feel of the more expensive watch is on another level. I wear the Smiths regularly and use it to tell the time, when I wear the UN I can spend minutes looking at the dial detail. I'd say follow the advice above regards 2nd hand, you get a lot more bang for your buck on the pre-owned market and while buying new is great experience and discounts
  12. I'd definitely look at the Superocean Heritage on mesh if I was in the market for this type of watch - disclosure (i was and that's what i bought) Of those two it's tough, the Omega is a classic and has the 'Bond' connection however the Superocean is a little different to the norm and looks fantastic with the blue dial. I'd probably go with the Omega as I already have the SOH but if I didn't I'd have to try both on and make my decision based on comfort and 'feel'
  13. I'm old and fat so anything under 40mm a) looks ridiculous on my leg sized arm and b) I have to squint at to tell the time and 42 - 46 is my sweet zone. It's not all about diameter aesthetically though. Lug length and shape have a massive impact on how it wears as does dial colour, bezel design, etc. I like that manufacturers do a range of sizes long may it stay that way.
  14. How could I forget Eterna, fantastic watches for the money and available for insane discounts from places like TKMax and Drop. Proper history too as they started that little movement manufacturer ETA. How could I forget Eterna, fantastic watches for the money and available for insane discounts from places like TKMax and Drop. Proper history too as they started that little movement manufacturer ETA.
  15. The correct answer to this is buy an Orient Bambino for £100 and save for something you actually want. Omega do some nice dressy watches - I particularly like the Omega DeVille gmt with grey face on armadillo bracelet, there are the Tudor 'Style' and 'Glamour' ranges and the obvious Rolex DJ's
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