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Stephen MUC

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  1. Jo is referring to the dimensions of the movement, to help you find a case with the right size cavity in it. The original case apparently has an OD of 35mm.
  2. Hello 4wheel, since no-one else has answered, I'll chip in with what I think. Probably the reason why Calvin Klein doesn't stock the screws as spares is because they aren't a proprietary part. Screws are usually just an off-the-shelf standard or generic part which you can buy from a decent watch-parts supplier. These appear to be just that, as the heads are slotted and not some exotic design. Obviously you need to know the dimensions before you can order. Are you in a position to remove a screw and measure it? (Head diameter, thread diameter, pitch, length)
  3. Hi there, To try to answer your original question; as others have stated already, it's not a known model, so the manufacturer is impossible to identify. Maybe there is a clue on the back? Otherwise the quartz mechanism might be identifiable when the back is off. Does it really matter to you who made it? It isn't official RR merchandise, I can assure you of that. Which company gifted it to you? If you like it and it keeps good time then have the dial repaired and the case smartened up. You aren't selling it, so who cares what it's worth? If Simon is willing to do it up for a tenner, I wouldn't think twice. Post some pictures of the watch when it's done.
  4. Your guess is as good as mine if you are determined to source original Yema parts. However, if you are lucky you may be able to replace the pushers with new ones which look very similar. Take some measurements of the one which is still whole and have a look at the Cousins online shop if you want to DIY. If you're not sure how to go about it, it'd be wise to take it to a watchmaker. A proper one with good reviews, not a jewellers. It shouldn't be an expensive fix, and it's too nice a watch to not get back in service.
  5. I wanted to buy this via Waterstones' Website, but it's out of stock. Can't give you any tips I'm afraid.
  6. Hi, are you still having problems? It sounds like the click isn't engaging as it should. Referring to your first photo, the click is shown engaged with the teeth of the ratchet wheel, and keeping the mainspring wound. When you turn the crown to wind the watch, the ratchet wheel will turn clockwise, and the click will rotate maybe 30 degrees anti-clockwise. Then when you stop winding, the click should rotate back and lock in the teeth, preventing the ratchet wheel from turning anti-clockwise. Have a look at this animation https://www.hodinkee.com/watch101 Have a look at what happens and get back to us. If the click doesn't turn back on it's own to engage the teeth, you must have fitted it or the spring below it wrongly.
  7. I think water COULD have got in, not necessarily WOULD have got in. The only way to be sure is to get it to someone with the right tools and ability to open the back up and have a look. Do this as soon as possible! If water did get in there, your drying out method will not have worked fast enough to prevent some damage, and it will most likely be getting worse as the hours go by. Good luck!
  8. OK, so it sounds like the stem isn't being held in place at all. On the dial side of the movement is the keyless works (the mechanism which switches between winding and setting modes, when you push/pull the stem between the detent positions.) If you've got the tools to remove the hands and dial you'll be able to fix it. Of course that doesn't mean the watch doesn't need a complete service anyway, but one thing at a time. Have a look at this article to understand what is going on: http://www.timezone.com/2002/09/16/the-keyless-works/ First of all, take the crown/stem sssembly out and try turning the pull-out piece screw gently clockwise. The head of this screw is visible in your first photo on the extreme right, and in the second photo at 4 o'clock, next to the stem. Does it get tight? If not, the pull-out piece / setting lever is loose or missing, and you need to look under the dial to find out. If it gets tight, then you're in luck! Loosen the screw one turn and push in the stem. It won't go in all the way at first. Slowly loosen the screw until the stem slides all the way in, then begin to tighten the screw again. When it bites, wiggle the stem around a bit, then try turning the screw a bit more (gently!). At some point the screw will resist any more turning and the stem will be locked in place. Now you should be able to switch between winding and setting modes as usual.
  9. Hello Steve, from the pictures you posted, the click doesn't look broken. Reading your original post, my guess is you are having a problem with the position of the winding stem. When you say "when I went to wind it the crown doesn’t click, it just comes straight out" do you mean the crown pops into a different position when you turn it, the stem falls out completely, or something else? When you turn the crown and the hands turn, can you push the crown in, ad does it click into the new position? When you removed the click, "nothing happened" means the ratchet wheel didn't fly round, correct? So the mainspring was fully unwound. If that's the case, you will not have damaged anything by removing the click. Take the hands and the dial off and check the function of the keyless work from the dial side.
  10. So, I've carried on searching in the meantime, and found this: http://www.great-british-watch.co.uk/watch-anti-shock-settings/ and this: which answer my questions about technique! You live and learn. Still don't know where to source the part. Anyone?
  11. According to the One Dip blurb, it "leaves a protective film which shields the spring from rust due to sudden atmospheric changes or proximity to moisture." Does lighter fuel do that as well? One Dip is also non-inflammable.
  12. I think you are looking at the dial, right? You need to get the back off the watch and take a look at the movement.. In my short experience of Summits, they are usually screw-on backs. Look for notches around the circumference. As above, photos posted here are your best bet. There's a guide on how to upload them. Don't worry about the "Haynes Manual" until you've identified the movement. What sort of irregularity are you seeing, anyway?
  13. Hello everyone, Over the last few weeks I've been stripping and cleaning a Helvetia 132 movement (equivalent ETA 2410 etc.). During the reassembly I managed to break one of the legs on the spring holding the shock protection cap-jewel - escape wheel, movement side. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ec07f6vfxz12zn/DSC01006.JPG?dl=0 It's not the standard jewel that is displayed in Ranfft for the Helvetia 132 / ETA 2410, but the shock-protected jewel shown by Ranfft for the Hamilton 23, here: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?00&ranfft&&2uswk&Hamilton_23 As far as I'm able to find out, it's a KIF Duofix system shock protection (also known as fixmobil?). I've searched long and hard for a source of spares, and the only place I can find who has shock protection springs to order is Jules Borel. Their item 400/551 is listed as Shock Spring, Duofix D210 10-3. There are no pictures or dimensions given. Does any one know, is this definitely the part I'm looking for, or are there different sizes of the Duofix? Also, does Borel sell to the general public, like me? They seem to be trade only, and request a VAT number for registration. Can anyone suggest another source? If I can't find the spring, what would the experts suggest? Should I just sacrifice originality and fit a bridge from a donor movement? I have one with the conventional jewel mounting, but the colour would also be wrong. Also, any tips on how to handle these springs to reduce the chances of breakage (tools, magnification, technique) are very much appreciated! Many thanks for any help and advice. By the way, I had trouble loading pictures from Dropbox at the last attempt, but it did work eventually, so please bear with me. Re the photo. The link takes you to Dropbox, and the picture appears briefly, then disappears. If you click "Oder weiter zur Webseite" at the bottom, it will be displayed indefinitely.
  14. That's a lovely watch! The lugs are real eye-catchers and the polished case just glows! Who did the work?
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