nevenbekriev

No, it doesn`t need any replacing. When the time is adjusted, one should feel some resonable resistence...The cannon pinion is like a clutch, when You adjust time it slips ower the center wheel axis. When it is loose, it needs to be tighten a litle. This is usually made by gentle pressing on the old mark with nail clipper. First You need to take off the cannon pinion. To avoid tightening it too much, they put inside some steel wire, or for example, a broach... Well, it is verry easy to break a cannon pinion, if there is no enough experience, so first You need to try on some movement that is only for training...Or You leave this to someone who has done it many times before...

Probably this happens because the cannon pinion is too loose. This way the watch may work all the time, but the hands may stay some time on place, especially when the date is to be changed. Usually this happens after long date adjustment, by turning hands by crown many days ahead to reach correct date…

Yes, the smallest size in china sets is 12. This is not hard to do thing to make a key. First, You need to grind square to proper size some hardened steel shaft. Then drill a hole in a brass round bar, and hammer the square shaft in the hole… Take the shaft off the hole and shape the key…

Oris Watch Co. SA

Green stone is for sharpening carbide cutters of big lathes. For sharpening of small drill bits, beter try diamond grinding disks, grit 1000 or at least 800

Glad to hear that!

No 'brake', break. Sorry for my english...

No, this kind of diamond drills won't do. Yes, the carbide drills a good, but very expensive... Look here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=tungsten carbide pcb drills&rt=nc&LH_PrefLoc=1&_trksid=p2045573.m1684 They are china made - drill fine, but easy to brake. There are japan made too - more expensive, and harder to brake… Also, the skill of drilling comes together with the skill of sharpening drill bits…

I am afraid that even with power tool, it will take forever too… And this is because of the drill bits. HSS is a good steel, but it was 20-30 years ago, when they used to put tungsten inside… Now, if You read ‘HSS’ on a modern tool, it means “GOOD FOR NOTHING”. And You want to drill in stainless steel... You need a tungsten carbide drill bit, but, have in mind that they are very crunchy and easy to break…

You have forgot to attach a foto of the movement…

What a interesting story... I hope I am wrong, but I guess that the problem will reappear again, sooner or later… Next time tell the one, who will service the watch, this: He should lift the hairspring until it touches the balance bridge. I believe that the outermost coil will remain stacked to the bridge and the movement will start to go faster – this is the wrong situation… If I am right, the watchmaker must demagnetize the bridge… But, this means to disassemble all parts of it – stud holder, regulator, etc., and demagnetize all steel parts separately. If demagnetizing all together, sometimes no demagnetizing is happening at all… Sorry I red the story just today, if I did few months earlier, It could save you about 2k… Good luck!

Guys, You think in a complittely wrong direction... Accuracy adjustment is a verry delicate matter. The poin is not how accurate is able to be adjusted a watch at all, but how accurate is able to be adjusted a watch, when his owner is wearing it. If the watch is on my hand, it will give different error, compared with when it is on You hand... That is why there are specifications for the movement - how accurate it should be after servicing. If the accuracy is within the limits of specification, then the Service can not be blamed... This specifications protect the Service from the client! Actually, it is usually possible to adjust the accuracy to 0 sec/day, for the owners way of wearing, but it will change next seasot, with the change of temperature, evaporation or getting old of the oil and many other factors... Also, after servicing, a watch should be used for a mounth, and then readjusted, because the accuracy will slowly change and then stabilize - exactly this is happening here... Also, usually there is only one adjustment for all positions, and if position error is out of the specification, then should be replacet the whole balanse. The adjustment of balance is possible, but it is a kind of art, and most of the servise workers are not artists...

No, this is swiss lever escapement. Cylindres from that time usually are cheap or ladies watches movements.

Hm... Yes, the watch is valuable - because of the movement, and bacause it is golden. Actually, it is most valuable because of the familly history it keeps... But, it will be a great mistake to send it to IWC... This will be a financial suicide! My advice is to look aroud for some old watchmaker, who still knows and remembers how to work wid old mechanical watches... Actually, the regular service of one is not complicatd or hard to do task, this is a routine... Do not giv it to somebody without ehperiace, as he will probably ruin it... In my country, it will cost about 50 Eur, at least I am doing it for that... But I know that this is different in You part of Europe... The dial needs restoring, but it is not a routine task, it will be expensive. But my advice is to leave as it is, as it will be a complitely different watch after the dial restoring, the familly history will be errased from it... Just be verry carefull if trying to clean it, because the numbers and marks will easy go off!!! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=IWC+golden+pocket+watch&_sacat=0

Yes, it is quality watch, it is not only because of the jewels number, but tne accuracy and finish of details. IWC of that time allways means quality. The watch doesn't need special storrage - keep it clean, away from moisture and dust and do not drop it!!!... If You are going to wind it often and keep it running, then You beter give it to a good watchmaker for cleaning and oiling. Othervice - just love it...