nevenbekriev

Yes, all correct. Don’t worry if You loose the position of ‘2’ – then the ‘line’ on the screen will become double, and the far is the stud holder from it’s correct position, the larger will be the distance between lines. In the correct position, the two lines will merge in one. Also, the “Beat Error” that on the Tickoprint screenshot now is 0.2 will become 0

No, it is not wireless. It is a coil, with two wires... Now they are broken. Glueing will not help if the wires are not soldered in their places...

Hi Phyl, The black round piece goes where pointed on the picture. It has been glued to the PCB. It's function is to provide high voltage pulses to the piezo membrane - it is only for the alarm sound and is not important for the work of the clock.

https://postimg.cc/JHB2hY93

Hi John, Welcome to the world of pocket watches... But You must know tat tis is verry long way to go before one can say for himselve that he has learned to repair and restore old watches. Usually the parts from a really old watch doesn't fit another, even if from the same model. So the restorer must be able to make by himself all parts that are lost, broken or worn... The watchmaker in the past is a person that really makes watches. Assembling is nothing, it is the easiest thing in this job! Sorry, but there is no such thing like 'replacement hairspring'. The hairspring is a part of

Mr Linnet, hi again! There are so many things to say, so this is real trial for my English… First of all – if a clock goes with no stopping without pendulum, and it stops with the pendulum placed, the reason is usually in the pendulum – suspension – rocker regulation and adjustment. The second – You clock is rusty and is oiled like it has been deep in oil… This is totally wrong! The rust particles are very abrasive and when they go in the oil, it becomes abrasive too. So, You clock will work with the right pendulum adjustment, but very soon, may be after few months working,

OK, there is a lot to be said - about calculations and wheel teeth counting, but I have not much time right now... The most simple way is: if the clock runs slow, then shorten the rod or the bob handle, or vice wersa - if it runs fast, then make it longer...

Yes that's right. You must use a new spring and attach it to the cog, or make new ends to the existing... The regulator works by lifting or lowering the cog with the upper end of the spring, thus changing it's outside part lenght. The regulator is oprated by turning the shaft...

Unscrew the screw on the second photo, the regulator will dissassemble and the spring will go out. You can still use this spring. You must prepare new botom end from piece of brass sheet, folded in two, with the spring inside. Then You have to solder it, drill a hole and press a pin in the hole.

Hi Bill, It is not important in what position You will tighten the screw. It is important to be sure that the bud of the setting lever is inside the notch of the stem before tighten the screw to the end.

Hi Bill, There are big enough there, as I can see. But not sure if the are 'shape a.' , as most are 'shape b.'

Hi Bill, Watch the video again, there I showed how to remove jevel from bridge without special tools. You have to cut the bridge in two diametral sides to the jewel. Another easy way is to dissolve the bridge in FeCl3

Nothing wrong with the watch. You need to unscrew the back, , align the movement and put the back again

The entire movement is slightly turned anticlockwice.

Hi Bill, There are some things about stones You must know first... The first one is the shape Here a. is the shape You need, b. is 'modern' pressed stone that will not fit. Then, there are 3 important sizes : the most important is the hole diameter - must be the same as the hole of the jewel for the 'scape wheel in the main plate, the pivot must go in hole free, but with almost no radial free play. Then, the outside diameter - if for example the hole in the bridge is 1.2mm, then the stone must be 1.3mm. You must open the hole before the stone can get in and then c