nevenbekriev

Yes... And there is part II here: http://forum.watch.ru/showpost.php?p=5683034&postcount=490 It took me whole week to do everything

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Antique-Pocket-Watch-with-a-24-hours-dial/254486566900?hash=item3b4094d7f4:g:ttIAAOSwjpxczyco https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Silver-Repousse-Patent-World-Time-Dial-24-Hour-Victorian-Pocket-Watch-1895/362634022432?hash=item546eac0e20:g:qCcAAOSwbzxcdQvw https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Museal-Antique-Jumbo-XL-Swiss-Pocket-Watch-24-Stundenanzeige-of-Watch-Ca-1900/333252959465?hash=item4d976c9ce9:g:Q0cAAOSw3u5dGJYN https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WWII-MILITARY-POCKET-WATCH-22-JEWEL-B-W-RAYMOND-G-CAT-WITH-SWEEP-SECOND-HAND/233184301725?hash=item364ade129d:g:73oAAOSwaB5Xk30~ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-Patent-World-Time-Dial-24-Hour-KeyWind-Non-Fusee-Pocket-Watch-1872/362667313158?hash=item5470a80806%3Ag%3AQaIAAOSw4khc9AYv&LH_ItemCondition=4 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Goliath-Silver-Patent-World-Time-Dial-24-Hour-Victorian-Pocket-Watch-1890/362616780750?hash=item546da4f7ce%3Ag%3A2nMAAOSwIt5chWO9&LH_ItemCondition=4

Thank's gimi, All the cutting but the pallet and impulse jewel slots was made by hand - with drehmel, files and sanding paper. The slots were cut with flying cutter on the lathe.

Here You can see some pictures I made when making a pallet for a good old pocket watch movement... http://forum.watch.ru/showpost.php?p=5674582&postcount=485

OK now, the pivots of balance staff are broken - it was clear from the beginning. Other vice I would advice You that the first thing to do is to remove the balance assembly from the movement… The hairspring – I am not sure if it is bent or there is some kind of overlap there. No mater what – it is repairable and for one with enough experience it is a piece of cake… I see too there is some liquid on it – I hope it is no water!!! I don’t see if there is rust on hairspring. If so, it can be a dirty rusty water that has dried there, and it will clean, or, the hairspring itself is rusted… A rusted hairspring will result in manner that the watch will lose time, and even if this is compensated in some way, the rust will continue to develop in time and the effect of losing time will increase. The canon pinion broke but it is steel in place? Grab it with some tool for the teeth of it’s arbor and rotate the wheel. I expect that the the shaft, the shaft neck of the bearing and the arbor of the wheel are damaged… The bad thing here is that even if they are OK, You will need a canon pinion. If You manage to find one, it will not fit to the shaft. And if You try to replace the whole wheel with the arbor and canon pinion together, it may not fit to the holes (the bearings) in the plate and the bridge… The mainspring and the arbor in the barrel look amazingly clean! But no rust on the mainspring is acceptable. You need to take mainspring out of the barrel. First remove the arbor – rotate it in direction, opposite to spring winding so the hook will disengage and take it off. Then lift the internal lap of the spring until it starts to unwind and carefully let it unwind little by little. If You are not careful enough, the spring may fly away, and the drum too, so be prepared… Then You must clean and check the spring and the necks of arbor for rust. There are 2 screws that hold the parts of the remontoir, that are so rusted, that You can’t understand that they are screws. Ypu will need to punch them out from the other side of the movement.

Hi Andy, This, about the stones, that they said on the other site is bull****… The watch jewels are synthetic stones, they are made in conditions of very high pressure and temperature. They have the same chemical composition and similar physical properties as real stones, but much less in price. I don`t have ultrasonic bath and believe that if for example Abraham Breguet didn`t have one, then I must be capable to do without it too… Any way, the first bath must be in the cleaning solution, the second in clean water, the third in alcohol (90% spiritus vini), and the last In petrol. Only the first bath is in ultrasonic device. The water is only for rinsing from the cleaning solution and this must be as short as possible to avoid rust development. The alcohol is to solve the water that is left on parts… I don`t see clearly on the picture - are the teeth of the escape wheel affected and damaged? The pivot of the forth wheel, where the seconds hand must be, is damaged. Other vice, the arbors seems to be not so damaged and may be it will be possible to polish them with sharp wooden stick and some polish… What is inside the barrel?

Hi Andy, What, only the second wheel now has left on the plate? OK then. 1. Yes the ultrasonic bath helps. 2. If penetrating oil was applied and some of it has get in between the canon pinion and the shaft, then water will not help, as the oil will repel it. You can use petrol or the Elma solution. 3. See, the rust removers contain acids. They will attack the steel, regardless the inhibitors that are in the solution to prevent it. Rust remover will act on the surface, but will not penetrate in between the pinion and the shaft. Yes, You can drip a drop on the place, but I don`t believe that it will help. 4. I will say it for the 3th time – the only way to destroy the jewels is to break them mechanically. Now seriously… May be using the ultrasonic bath will help to extract the canon pinion unbroken till the end of this year. But for sure You will losе my interest until then… This cannon pinion is ruined by the rust much far beyond the point of no return. Take some pliers and squeeze it, and then squeeze it again in direction 90 degr. against the first time. Thus it will break or loose enough to get off. Take pictures of the arbors of the wheels and show them…

Sorry, mistake... Not the pivots, the whole pinions...

The stones/jewels are synthetic jewels. In the worst case (in the cheap movements) they are made of simple glass. Here they are synthetic rubies or sapphires or something of this sort. Believe me, no chemical will do harm to them. I didn`t say to solve the shellac, just wanted to warn that alcohol will solve it (but slowly, for hours). I don`t know what is the composition of this rust remover, but the rule is that only the affected part should be dipped, not the whole movement - to minimize the hazard. The tables of wheels are made of brass, and the pinions are made of steel. Pinion is what You call ‘center column’ , this is one whole part with pivots turned on it. Broken or rusted pivots are the smaller problem, as the pinions can be ‘repivoted’ The main problem is when the teeth of the pinions are rusted… Then the pivots must be replaced. I would disassemble this movement for no more than 5 minutes, and without the penetrating oil. Yes, I have a lot of experience, and I am not afraid to break something – I can make all parts of this movement if needed. Here disassembling is going on so slowly mainly because of the indecision of the topic starter…

Happy new year! OK, so far-so good! Now You must remove all wheels, except the second wheel. All they are free and nothing holds them, but the rust on the pivots. The canon pinion holds the second wheel and it is so rusted that it seems that will rather break then go off. You should hold it in a pin vice and try to rotate the wheel forward and back, hoping this will loose the rust and the pinion will get off. If the canon pinion breaks, no problem, it is ruined any way. Remove the balance bridge with balance. Careful with the hair spring! Remove the lever bridge and the lever. Open the barrel and show the mainspring inside. There is no point to try to solve the rust, unless it is fresh and only on the surface. The rust is not something dirty that can be cleaned off. Yes, the bridges and plate – they are made from brass and they can be cleaned easily as the rust does not affect them. But the pinions and the other steel parts are affected in the way that the steel is partially turned to rust and if the rust is cleaned, then pits and craters will be on the surface… But, take the wheels out and do some photos and show them here to evaluate the condition... Nothing in the world will solve the stones. The impulse jewel on the balance roller and the paletts on the lever are glued with shellac and it can be solved by alcohol and some other solvents, but it is easy to apply new shellac if this happens. The stones in this type of watches are very easy to break and it is not easy to replace them – be careful

Hi, I am not sure if this here has something to do with Blancpain. If I have one guess, I will suppose inside is Soviet movement Slava 24XX.

Just align the screw that holds the movement and aply pressure near the screw. The movement will come out. If needed - aply more pressure. If the stem wont get free from the movement, then let it break, it is so rusted that is useless. There is no unrepairable watch. Every single part may be produced from 0. All needed for that is a lathe with milling attachment, and of course - skills to use it the right way. But this is a time consuming and it will never pay off, because this type of watches are not expesive. But one can do it for his own pleasure as much as hi likes...

Hi Andy, The screw on the picture, You only need to turn (unscrew direction) it`s head until the part that is cut gets aligned with the plate. Then just press the movement near this screw and it will get out of the case. The stem and rusted wheels on it will remain on the case. The barrel with mainspring is ready to get off. You need to unscrew the screws of the transmition bridge and take the bridge off, then the wheels will be ready to get off. The center wheel will stay on plate until You take off the cannon pinion, which is so rusty that it will probably break into pieces rather then get off... The pivots of the wheels may be rusty too, and if so, they will not get off out of stone holes easy, pay attention not to bend the wheels, just turn them slightly, this to avoid breaking the stones... As I said, it will be very hard to repair this movement, unless a donor movement if found, but then it will be easier to repair the donor rather... But, everything is possible, please take a look here https://strelki.info/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=7400&p=69520&hilit=medea#p69520 https://strelki.info/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=7602&p=71384&hilit=medea#p71384 https://strelki.info/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=7686&p=72068&hilit=medea#p72068 This is in Bulgarian, but You still can see the pictures... This was 7-8 years ago - then I had almost no expirience, but a lot of naked enthusiasm instead... And I thought that already know everything... Now I see, that most things are done wrong, and today I can do it much easier and faster... Now I have experience and knowledge, but much less enthusiasm...

Good! What is the amplitude? Is it equal in both horizontal positions?

Actually no, only the screw of the crown wheel (the smaller one) is with left hand thread.