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nevenbekriev

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Everything posted by nevenbekriev

  1. Hi guys, If You ask me, the best option is always to make a new staff on the lathe. In old watches, one can never be sure that no changes were made to balance parts in previous repairs, and it is never clear if an original staff will fit. Well, all depends on skills with the lathe, but with the practice, the skills will come.
  2. Hi Bob, The first I have to say is that You missunderstand the aim of escapement parts. If the pendulim is suspended on knife bearings, why in the world is that suspension spring there??? The suspension spring is needed to avoid friction in pendulum suspension. But the engagement between pendulum and palet MUST be hard, not via spring!!! If You ask me, this type of pendulum suspension will last no long, as the knifes will cut easy in the printed bearings... Make the bearings of steel an harden them, also harden the knifes too. Throw away the spring and replace it by rigid piece... Or
  3. I can say for sure only that the floating balance escapement was introduced first in 1956 by Smiths. So the 46 stamp will be no more than the personal number of the packing worker...
  4. Yes, the movement inside the clock is Hermle 340-020. They still produce and supply this movement. The clock manufacturer is hadr to find out, may be looking online pictures may help. The case design I think is from 70's...
  5. The bulge itself is not a problem at all. It is only a consiquence of mainspring break in the past. If now the mainspring can be winded to the end, then it is attached to the barrel and no reason to think that there is a problem there. BUT , if the mainspring has been broken once, I would check if it has been 'repaired' and in the barrel is only a short piece of it for example, or if the mainspring in the barrel is proper for the movement at all...
  6. Hi Jess, Show us a picture of the movement, measure it's diam. and height. Then You will have the answer.
  7. Hi Dilly, I must disagree with two other opinions above. By only replacing the spring/barrel, the clock will probably run for 3-4 days instead for 2-3 with the old spring…. See, if a clock or watch is running, this still doesn’t mean that it is in good order. The same if a man is breathing, this will not mean that he is in good health. If a clock movement is in a good condition and with new strong mainspring, then the amplitude of balance oscillations will be more than 250 degr. If the mainspring is old and weaker, then the amplitude will be probably 180 degr. , bu
  8. Hi Morthin, Looks like there is no connection with the hammer spring. Probably the striking part of the movement is not assembled correctly. The gears should be engaged in certain position against each other when assembling, so when striking stops, the hammer should be just fallen down. In "preparation" stage, the hammer should stil stay down, or just only a little lifting is acceptable.
  9. Hi all, No, this is a Kienzle movement from 1930's Here is a picture of another one with maker's mark on it...
  10. Hi Eagledale, This is late Roskopf watch, may be produced 1920-30’s. Roskopf watches were originally produced to be cheap but reliable, the workman’s watch. After Roskopf’s death, around 1900, almost any watch company in La Chaux de Fonds was making money producing a “Roskopf watch”, further simplifying the design and making it more and more cheaper. The result is what You have… It is ugly and cheap, but still able to work for several years. Don’t mint the “Railroad Timekeeper”, it is only a name. The same if You buy “Squirrel” pralines: You don’t expect to find a real squirr
  11. I can say for sure that this is a swiss cylindre movement. Usually there is no maker's mark on this movements, and shape of bridges is very common for the period, so no chance to determine movement maker.
  12. Hi Colin, The slots in the nut are something normal. The nut is only for fine adjustment of the pendulum length. There is no pressure or force there. Once it is adjusted, no more touching and turning is needed, so it is very strange that the thread is worn. Is it possible that the nut has been replaced with one with bigger size of thread? If now the nut stays in place and needs some force to be rotated, You don’t have to worry about it – all is perfect.
  13. I a sorry, I am pritty sure that it will not work.
  14. Probably the 3-hour period is connected with one full revolution of the chain wheel. Check if there is a bent tooth on it...
  15. This is a swiss movement, but in most cases - impossible to determine the manufacturer. Everything is in place, only the hairspring seems to be bent. And, of course, balance staff can be broken.
  16. Very often happens that someone buys old pocket watch with the intention to start restoration project, then He finds that the balance staff is broken and gives off… Yes, the price of making new parts is high and buying watchmaker’s lathe is expensive thing. But, if one have enough enthusiasm and time, nothing will stop Him to build his own lathe, good enough to make good quality balance staffs, screws, winding stems and some other things, and learn how to do this things by himself. And, having lathe doesn’t mean that one will ever learn how to use it. Actually, the old watchmaker
  17. Here are some pictures I took when making clock barrels. They had to be two and equal. [/QUOTE]
  18. Hi Dell, Yes, when there is a crack in the cylindrical part of the barrel, this is really bad. But even then, it is better to turn a ring out of steel tube and press it on the barrel. Of course, if there is enough space for this ring in the movement. I know the theory that brass will harden 3 days after heating, but I am not sure if it is true. May be some sorts of brass really harden a little, but I have seen a lot watch or clock wheels, that somebody has heated (in order to anneal the steel pinion to ease drilling for re-pivoting), where the brass table of wheel has become so
  19. Hi Steve, I can't see what is the condition of the stone, but it is clearly seen that down side pivot of balance staff is broken. So, You need somebody who is able to turn a new balancs staff. On the other side of plate is the down side balance bridge. There are two stones on it - hole stone and end stone. The end stone is in a small plate, shaped like a peg. Shift it and it will go out, then You will be able to see the hole stone.
  20. Hi, all Yes, this is a good way to make a new hook, which is used mainly in big clocks. @Dell: My advice is not to solder the old hole with silver solder. Pegging is needed only for aesthetic reasons, which is reasonable in torsion clocks. Hearing drum to temperature of solder melting will make the brass soft. We don’t need that as teeth may bend by the torque of the spring. Using of soft led-tin solders will not soften the brass.
  21. I just copy-pasted it from an old book: To fit a new mainspring hook to a barrel, first drill a hole in the side of the barrel at a slight angle pointing away from the direction of pull of the mainspring. The hole is then threaded slightly undersize. Taper a piece of steel wire by filing and cut a thread with a screw plate, holding the wire in a pin-vice. Remove the pin-vice, cut the wire close to the screw plate and shape the protruding piece of wire into a hook by filing. Unscrew the threaded wire from the screw plate and insert the small diameter end of the wire into
  22. Hi Bob, If the loss of the second hand is no problem, then just make the pinion of the escape wheel to rotate free on the shaft and fix the shaft to the frame. No need to put another shaft on different place. But You must put on the shaft some kind of separator to keep the two wheels little away from each other. This separator must be fixed to the shaft. Involute teeth have many advantages. There is no friction in teeth, they rather roll on each other. The torque is transmitted absolutely smoothly. But there is a disadvantage – they create force that wants to increase distance betw
  23. Hi Bob, OK, there is something wrong in the design of this thing... You have built it in the way they build some reducers, but this type of reducers usually work exactly in opposite direction – the fast rotation of weak and small electric motor is reduced to slow rotation with big torque. As I see, You use shafts that stay still, and the bearings are in the gears. Thus the size of the bearings is the same for all the gears, and gears can press each other… OK, this is not so bad, but price is too much loses. You gears are with involute teeth profile, which ads some more lose
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