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  1. On the accuracy side of things? Not really, watch companies tend to use Chronometre as a way to continue to sell their brand, or as you mentioned, to challenge themselves in their watchmaking journey. I'm facing a dilemma myself, in making my own watch I am wondering if I should invest in a more expensive movement that boasts a premium regulation, or simply, it runs more accurately - the difference being around a hundred pounds. Is it worth it, I ask myself?
  2. I'm sorry I've been a bit lax on my thread. Unfortunately any work I do at my place of work is subject to availability of the machines, and we've been busy lately. Also we have have a few problems, the main one being that our compressor failed and my boss has had to organize a new one while we manage in the meantime. Also, I decided to 3d print some parts so I could build myself a pad printer, well, part of a pad printer anyway. Then, my printer decided to malfunction and it's now in pieces being rebuilt. So, I'm working towards my watch at the moment but getting nowhere near. The one thing I have decided, after the experiment with machining the dial feet on the back of a dial, is that I'm going to make my dials like that from now on. I have to make new fixtures to cope with that. I think in the end it will be better though.
  3. And probably give you carpel tunnel syndrome. My watch would have no hands, a blank dial of a beige colour, and also would have no movement, needing no movement because of the missing hands. It would be named, No Time Art Piece No.1. A further model would feature a lighter beige colour, and even maybe a darker one, but that one would certainly be controversial.
  4. That's really buffing up nice isn't it. I've never worked with gold, must be interesting to work with.
  5. That Piaget is remarkable in it's thinness, the engineering inside it... Well, I haven't got any photos I'm afraid but I can give you a list. As you know I'm a bit quirky an like something a little different, also love original stuff. My list: Voutlainen - Setsu-Getsu-Ka F P Journe - Chronometre Optimum A Lange & Sohne - Zeitwerk Voutilainen - Chronograph Masterpiece AP - Code 11.59 (for wearing around the new workshop - see below) For the last two I would buy a whole lot of lovely new engineering equipment and design and make my own (probably wouldn't stop at just the two ).
  6. I quite like the design on that.
  7. Just ask Peter Jackson filming Lord of the Rings. That's the main thing with designing and building your own thing, it's a true original, nothing like it out there.
  8. I thought maybe you would have, saved as much as you could. Also makes the watch a little cheaper to make. Sometimes my boss quotes on a job with that in mind, how much he can offset the cost of the job with what he can make back in scrap. Hard to believe anything could be salvaged from buff paper but I guess it doesn't have to be much.
  9. Finishing often takes the most time, in my experience, but it's worth it in the end. Coming along well. Curious; do you keep all your filings? Just wondering as it's gold...
  10. Holy crap, didn't realize your video files were that large. Saying that, I saw on your YT channel you could alter the res up to 1080, so I guess that explains it. Regarding drilling, if I have to drill freehand, I always centre pop to give the drill something to start, and to stop it from wandering, to maintain position as it were.
  11. Does anyone know much about video formats and what sizes you should post?
  12. So, making tracks to try out the waterslide decals I bought recently. To that end I turned up some new dials, most of them around 0.45 to 0.55 thick. They won't be used for anything other than the decal experiment so not that important. What I do know is that the paint I apply (grey etching primer - 2 coats - and the matt white top coat - 4 layers in total) will add to the overall thickness. I can't remember from last time how much so I'll check that out with these. I turned up a wooden fixture made from Macassar Ebony, to hold the dials as I turn them. I will be making a new version of this in Aluminium once I know what happens to the decals. The fixture holds the thin dial by a recess inside the bore. I bored the recess with a high speed tool that had an angle inside which then transferred its angle into the bore, effectively making the recess a sharp angle. The principle being that the angle would naturally turn inwards when is applied to the outside by the screw. At the sizes and lengths we're using here I don't think it actually does that much to help keep the dial locked in the recess but you never know. At the very least it keeps the back side of the dial from fouling on the back of the recess and stopping it from being pushed out as pressure is applied. I found this really worked well as long as you aren't too aggressive with the size of the cuts. I know people use glue a lot of time to hold thin and delicate parts but my experience in manufacturing has me thinking about fixtures more and it works for me. I also wanted to post a very short video of the turning tool turning the dial in the lathe chuck but I couldn't get it to work after I uploaded it. I'm not too familiar with video at the moment, something new for me. Branching out a little as video does show a bit more about the process people go through when creating things. I have to get used to video formats and compression and sizes.
  13. Sometimes I think it always does.
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