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Ajohn

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About Ajohn

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  1. Haven't put it all back together yet but looking ok. The gasket went in pretty easily. It may be more apparent than the original one. Pressed the glass in having decided to try the 34.5 as it looked like it would be a tight fit. Maybe the gaskets allow for compression. Moderate pressure with my thumbs doesn't move it ;) but don't know how hard to press. The excess gasket depth was pretty obvious so used a fresh safety razor blade at near 45 degrees to trim it off. Sort of 35 degrees plus. Tends to slip off at lower angles so had to redo it in a couple of places. Best to rotate the watch and it needs a bit of pressure on the blade. Then wiped my finger prints off the glass with IPA. Yet to look and see just how well that has worked. John -
  2. Cousins show a 35.3 - 34.5mm gasket but 1.3mm deep and glasses either side of 34.5. So ordered the gaskets and 3 glasses 34.4 to 34.6. All Cousins own so hope quality is ok. The gaskets come in pairs so I may try trimming down with a razor blade after fitting. Hope 35.3 will go in. Some web sources suggest a bit oversized is ok but I have my doubts. At leasts the glasses may be ok if I can find the correct size of gasket. John -
  3. I can't measure the inside dia of the gasket as the glass has deformed it so took it out. The recess is 35.2mm dia by 1.07mm deep. The gasket is 1mm deep and 0.44 - 0.45mm thick. Glass was 1.2mm thick. Cousins list some 1.3mm glasses but the gasket seems to be a problem. They may have misdescribed a 35.5 o/d by 1mm deep in the ISO range as they list 2 at 0.8 deep and one at 1.2 but could just be different thicknesses. I don't know but 0.3mm over size seems a bit much to me. It wasn't easy to get the old one out so reuse is dubious. 1.3mm glass if there is a suitable dia should be ok but not at all sure about sizing the gasket and dia glass to go with it. John -
  4. I needed to get something to keep the movement in to avoid dust getting on it so slow progress. It looks fairly well enclosed but I have had dust problems in the past from simply having the battery changed so bought one of those small bell jar like items. The insulator just lifts off, loosely clipped in place. It sticks to anything rather easily so thought I had lost it while trying to get the stem out. It has a press engraving plus arrow. Instructions on other watches wouldn't work. On the this one the watch crown needs to be pushed right in, not part out etc. So now I know that the original crystal was 1.2mm thick. It fell to pieces when it came out so can't measure the diameter. It uses the usual style of "gasket" around the crystal but not sure what these are called. Also best way of determining the size? I do have a vernier caliper and but have no idea how wide a tolerance is possible on the fit. Any suggestions ? John -
  5. I decided to change the battery on my Bulova myself. I did have some one else replace it last time and they mentioned that the back was very tight and a press was needed to replace the back so bought one. Result http://www.23hq.com/ajohnw/photo/61879075 I decided that the die at the bottom was bending so tried something more solid. I put my entire weight on the press and it still wouldn't go in before breaking the glass. Main reason for posting is replacing the crystal and getting the stem out. For some reason I can't use the insert image from url so can only provide a link showing the inside of the watch http://www.23hq.com/ajohnw/photo/61879068 No problem removing the white plastic movement holder but am unsure about the insulator over the movement. The watch uses a lithium coin cell. I assume the insulator can be flicked out some how and could to with a clue before having a go. Under that I expect to find something to press etc to allow the stem to be removed. I bought a newer model of the same watch after breaking the glass. The have gone to a rather smooth second hand sweep and much prefer the older one which mimics a high quality auto's movement - perfectly in my view. I might even put the movement in the newer watch. Might be best to make sure my new dual pillar screw jack type press can get the back on before even contemplating that. John -
  6. That just leaves me to find out what 7 /12 ''' etc means. Looks like it's something to do with the calibre size? On the thread my seiko +/- 10sec a year states if worn for at least 8hrs a day. I wore it constantly and it looked like it was not going to make it - loosing. Then removed it at night and it started gaining and now seems to have settled down 2 secs slow after leaving it off for 1 week. It seems to need the temperature changes to regulate well . Maybe they register the temperature changes indirectly some how. It's a cal 8f35. I've had it for about 12 months. Titanium 200m divers watch. Makes me wonder about progress though. If the espada is worn all the time - easy to do with watches like that it holds to a couple of seconds or less between winter and summer time changes. I bought that new in 1994. John
  7. I must remember to use the search function on forums :*****: It came up with this thread. http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?s...p;hl=thermoline That answers one of my questions but maybe not which watches use them or where I should be able to buy a movement. I also assume the ''' means 1/60th's of a second per day? Regards John
  8. Hi I'm new to the forum so let me say hello and a bit about myself. I'm more of a watch user than a collector and like watches that only need to be touched at winter and summer time changes. I do have a few watches about me from the past. Marvin Review, Zenith Espada and more recently a +/- 10sec a year Seiko that well may be replaced with and 1980's Oysterquartz when it comes back from Rolex. I've also had a long term interest in tuning fork watches but have never bought one - may do shortly. In between the watches mentioned I've also owned watches by Seiko, Rotary and Accurist. Going on those I've gained the impression that the regulation of moderately priced quartz watches has got worse over the past 30 odd years. I'm curious as to any current watches that use thermally compensated movements. Which movements they use and what sort of performance they achieve. I have an interest in model engineering and have always fancied having a go at making a watch so I would also like to know where they can be bought. John
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