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About Ajohn

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  1. Oysterquartz easily in my case which I don't wear very often. The curious thing is that if mentioned they seem to realise that it's not a fake. Past that I do sometimes notice people watching the smooth 2nd hand sweep - ;) even on a Bulova quartz. My daily wear is a Christopher Ward retro diver chronometer. I suspect the sweep is the only thing anyone will notice. When I look at it I see a cheap watch and suspect that the people who notice the oysterquartz would as well. All down to a mix of the design, finishes and colours etc. I suspect in this case it's mostly down to a poor choice of the colour of blue. The end result might be described as tasteless but that's a bit extreme but that means that probably no one will notice it at all. John -
  2. India seems to be famous for Seiko watches that are not original in some way. Comments on a Seiko forum don't suggest fakes just things like none original dials etc. It's tricky as I don't know where Seiko make all of their watches. China might be involved so parts could get anywhere legitimately or otherwise. I have one from India where the dial was probably knocked up on some sort of printer - inkjet etc. It wasn't sold as new. It uses one of the earlier lower jewel count movements so tried to see if there are any clones about. Doesn't seem to be. Other movements may be available from China - clones or originals ? Could be either. Even Russian watches have been cloned - big time it seems and the watches were far more cheaply made. It seems that the one I have needs the original movement otherwise a new case would have to be made. I might find out what it is when I try and service it. As I like the look of it and have never serviced one before it wont be the first one I try. This watch is one of the so called railway watches. Recently they have been offering more dial options maybe they have made enough on the others to buy a better printer. Totally original watches ??? Not sure about that in my case as all watches need something replacing at some point and I'd prefer them to work as they should. John -
  3. I found that there were services and SERVICES when I bought an Oysterquartz from Singapore on ebay. It had a minor fault, didn't do what it should have when the crown was pulled right out. The seller told me that it needed a minor adjustment and agreed to contribute. So phoned a couple of local official Rolex service people. One said no the other the same but told me why. They had to offer a 2 year guarantee when they serviced a watch so wouldn't touch it due to the cost of a replacement movement if that happened to fail so he told me the best option was to send it to Rolex which I did. The seller wasn't too pleased but refunded me 1/3 of the cost. I thought that was fair so that is what I asked for. The watch came back in slightly better condition than it was when I sent it. It was pretty good anyway. Some servicing may include a bit of refinishing. So in real terms if some one does have a watch serviced it should include a guarantee. Watches with this do crop up on ebay and from one I bought cost was not much more than the run of the mill stuff in decent condition. Cheaper in the long run as no need to fork out for a service. I've only bought one watch like this, an Omega and it came with a 2 year guarantee. Quartz but the cost of the movement is probably peanuts compared with a Rolex. They may have even fitted a new one. I'm wondering why Ebay automatics always loose time. John -
  4. People are keen on papers with Rolex as there have been some very precise fakes around. There is a solution. Send them to Rolex for a service. Having done that with an Oysterquartz imported from Singapore without papers it's a worrying experience but when I bought it no one was interested in them so in real terms not that much money was involved. They even knew where it was originally sold. The receipt for the service in some ways is better than papers. It had a minor fault. No official Rolex service person would touch it due to the need to offer a 2year guarantee and the cost of the movements in them. I'd be inclined to say that a new Rolex will depreciate at a rate that means it wont match inflation for a very long time. That may be helped by leaving it in it's box and never wearing it. I bought an Oysterquartz as I thought that they would be bound to increase in value as relatively few were made and sold and I wanted one. Perhaps the best option with other models is to buy ones which are 3 or 4 years old, maybe older but in both cases to be as they should be a service is likely to be needed. Same with any make really. I think in many cases watches finish up on the used market because they need full servicing and they need it more often than some people think. John -
  5. It tends to happen when relatively few are sold new. Even my Oysterquartz is an example of that. Bought used when people weren't very keen on them. I suspect that may happen on other quartz models long term but I'm too old to care now. John -
  6. I bought a short wheel based 4.2L E Type roadster just after an oil crisis. Didn't think I could afford it and made a very low offer. That series of E type would do 150mph just like the early ones and then emission controls hit them harder followed by type approval causing their demise. For reasonable economy I had to retune and balance the carbs every couple of months. My father in law had a Daimler double 6, he reckoned 4mpg but did drive rather hard. Cars were where all of his money went so eventually came and lived with us. I try and make everything I buy a lifetime supply. Buy once, hardly ever seems to work out though. John -
  7. I'm intending to try servicing a watch. I have an ultrasonic machine from long ago, a cast off from work. I decided to use the same detergent as I used to clean carb jets and etc. Teepol L. It's a neutral industrial detergent that goes a long long way so just ordered 5L of it. Probably last for ever. Now I just need a cheap watch to wreck. One's on it's way. Then comes courage and time. John -
  8. Used cosc chronometers have a problem. All down to the expanding universe and the rate of time changing. Buy one 30 years old and it will loose 30sec a day. Buy one 15 years old and it will loose 15 secs a day. Those are good ones that have obviously been looked after and is purely down to the expanding universe. ;) John _
  9. Mine's intended for daily wear. Main reason for buying new was the hope of getting excellent time keeping from an automatic. That meant it had to a chronometer. If I bought used it might mean having it serviced to get it as it should be, might need new parts etc. Suppose it depends on how old the watch is and if it's for collection or use. I'm not a collector so am sitting here wondering why I have 3 automatics and another on the way here. I had none a few months ago, all a quartz that I have worn daily at one time or the other. John - Sorry about some of that - no edit so will have to be very careful about my sometimes rather odd typo's. John -
  10. I had to make that decision recently. I usually wear quartz and tried a well use automatic chronometer for a while and decided to get a new replacement. Generally the price of those would put me off but found a maker with "rather" reasonable pricing and 5 year movement warrantee providing I have it serviced sometime between when it's 3 and 4 years old, Under £1000. Just wish I had waited until the black friday weekend had started. ;) I thought about returning it and buying it again. John -
  11. I had this happen on a Zenith. 1st time was a couple of months after the guarantee ran out but they fixed it. Same thing happened again a couple of years later. I didn't take it apart etc but a watch man told me that all it takes is a speck of dust. Several good puffs from a blower bulb fixed it and it's been fine ever since. Might be the same speck that Zenith provided me with or one that their UK repairers added. They mentioned a clean room but I have my doubts. Suppose it depends on how long the batteries last in them for watches that use the same size. This particular one was over 2 years so not much power to get things moving. Since that I worry every time a battery is changed on any watch and am more inclined to do it myself. I spoke to some one that does repairs and has a rather expensive vac but he changes batteries in a polythene bag. John -
  12. You might find some clues about various aspects of restoration in these www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC8lwLJwxzfrM5-fF2FYEoro0L7Vjpeqb I removed the http so that just a link is displayed - some one seems to have collected a number of related videos on this page. There are also video on refinishing bracelets. John -
  13. I've been playing with this lately and wonder if any one else has on here. One forum has plenty of partial information on it but from my use the microphone end is tricky. This is what I am using Bits of amazon. Preamp and a violin clip on piezo pickup. Results The software is call Tg. I run Linux and had a bit of a problem compiling it as the web page suggests but no problems with the usual ./config etc. Unlike most similar things it runs continuously so there is bound to be a bit of variation in readings but the time errors appear to be correct. Different watches behave differently according to how they are connected. I've been comparing results with a 6000 series Tag Heuer and the new Seiko. Set up one way may work well with one but not the other. The rate error appears to be correct but if the traces bounce around it may not settle down often enough. All down to the microphone end - well I think that is the cause. It's fed into a mic input on a laptop that turned out to be a headset input so needed a splitter cable to get at the actual mic input. The grey Pulse thing just shows how strong a signal the preamp gives. That probably has a higher bandwidth than the set up ideally needs. John -
  14. Circa 1990 Omega Manhattan Constellation John -
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