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About Ajohn

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  1. People are keen on papers with Rolex as there have been some very precise fakes around. There is a solution. Send them to Rolex for a service. Having done that with an Oysterquartz imported from Singapore without papers it's a worrying experience but when I bought it no one was interested in them so in real terms not that much money was involved. They even knew where it was originally sold. The receipt for the service in some ways is better than papers. It had a minor fault. No official Rolex service person would touch it due to the need to offer a 2year guarantee and the cost of the movements in them. I'd be inclined to say that a new Rolex will depreciate at a rate that means it wont match inflation for a very long time. That may be helped by leaving it in it's box and never wearing it. I bought an Oysterquartz as I thought that they would be bound to increase in value as relatively few were made and sold and I wanted one. Perhaps the best option with other models is to buy ones which are 3 or 4 years old, maybe older but in both cases to be as they should be a service is likely to be needed. Same with any make really. I think in many cases watches finish up on the used market because they need full servicing and they need it more often than some people think. John -
  2. There are some on ebay now with "better" dials. I looked at all used Seiko 5's on ebay and I suspect there are a lot of fake come semi fake ones around. Different models. Reminds me of the totally fake carriage clocks from China some years ago. John -
  3. You could be correct but some of the appearance is down to poor photo processing. There are loads that are similar selling on ebay mostly from India. That one wasn't but could still have come from there. I wanted a movement to try my first ever service on. Also found another movement for it from India. Only trouble is I like the look of the watch. It looks to be in far too good condition for a 1980's watch but the timing is all over the place as would be expected Old or India ??? John -
  4. Lowering the tone. I am curious to know when these were made and which movement it is. John -
  5. It tends to happen when relatively few are sold new. Even my Oysterquartz is an example of that. Bought used when people weren't very keen on them. I suspect that may happen on other quartz models long term but I'm too old to care now. John -
  6. I bought a short wheel based 4.2L E Type roadster just after an oil crisis. Didn't think I could afford it and made a very low offer. That series of E type would do 150mph just like the early ones and then emission controls hit them harder followed by type approval causing their demise. For reasonable economy I had to retune and balance the carbs every couple of months. My father in law had a Daimler double 6, he reckoned 4mpg but did drive rather hard. Cars were where all of his money went so eventually came and lived with us. I try and make everything I buy a lifetime supply. Buy once, hardly ever seems to work out though. John -
  7. I'm intending to try servicing a watch. I have an ultrasonic machine from long ago, a cast off from work. I decided to use the same detergent as I used to clean carb jets and etc. Teepol L. It's a neutral industrial detergent that goes a long long way so just ordered 5L of it. Probably last for ever. Now I just need a cheap watch to wreck. One's on it's way. Then comes courage and time. John -
  8. Used cosc chronometers have a problem. All down to the expanding universe and the rate of time changing. Buy one 30 years old and it will loose 30sec a day. Buy one 15 years old and it will loose 15 secs a day. Those are good ones that have obviously been looked after and is purely down to the expanding universe. ;) John _
  9. Mine's intended for daily wear. Main reason for buying new was the hope of getting excellent time keeping from an automatic. That meant it had to a chronometer. If I bought used it might mean having it serviced to get it as it should be, might need new parts etc. Suppose it depends on how old the watch is and if it's for collection or use. I'm not a collector so am sitting here wondering why I have 3 automatics and another on the way here. I had none a few months ago, all a quartz that I have worn daily at one time or the other. John - Sorry about some of that - no edit so will have to be very careful about my sometimes rather odd typo's. John -
  10. I had to make that decision recently. I usually wear quartz and tried a well use automatic chronometer for a while and decided to get a new replacement. Generally the price of those would put me off but found a maker with "rather" reasonable pricing and 5 year movement warrantee providing I have it serviced sometime between when it's 3 and 4 years old, Under £1000. Just wish I had waited until the black friday weekend had started. ;) I thought about returning it and buying it again. John -
  11. I had this happen on a Zenith. 1st time was a couple of months after the guarantee ran out but they fixed it. Same thing happened again a couple of years later. I didn't take it apart etc but a watch man told me that all it takes is a speck of dust. Several good puffs from a blower bulb fixed it and it's been fine ever since. Might be the same speck that Zenith provided me with or one that their UK repairers added. They mentioned a clean room but I have my doubts. Suppose it depends on how long the batteries last in them for watches that use the same size. This particular one was over 2 years so not much power to get things moving. Since that I worry every time a battery is changed on any watch and am more inclined to do it myself. I spoke to some one that does repairs and has a rather expensive vac but he changes batteries in a polythene bag. John -
  12. You might find some clues about various aspects of restoration in these www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLC8lwLJwxzfrM5-fF2FYEoro0L7Vjpeqb I removed the http so that just a link is displayed - some one seems to have collected a number of related videos on this page. There are also video on refinishing bracelets. John -
  13. I've been playing with this lately and wonder if any one else has on here. One forum has plenty of partial information on it but from my use the microphone end is tricky. This is what I am using Bits of amazon. Preamp and a violin clip on piezo pickup. Results The software is call Tg. I run Linux and had a bit of a problem compiling it as the web page suggests but no problems with the usual ./config etc. Unlike most similar things it runs continuously so there is bound to be a bit of variation in readings but the time errors appear to be correct. Different watches behave differently according to how they are connected. I've been comparing results with a 6000 series Tag Heuer and the new Seiko. Set up one way may work well with one but not the other. The rate error appears to be correct but if the traces bounce around it may not settle down often enough. All down to the microphone end - well I think that is the cause. It's fed into a mic input on a laptop that turned out to be a headset input so needed a splitter cable to get at the actual mic input. The grey Pulse thing just shows how strong a signal the preamp gives. That probably has a higher bandwidth than the set up ideally needs. John -
  14. Circa 1990 Omega Manhattan Constellation John -
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