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Found 679 results

  1. Hello guys, I am new to the forum and I would like to learn from your experience. As I can't have access to the sale corner I will take the opportunity to investigate differences about watches. Could anyone explain me the difference between a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer Precision VS Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified ? And how the difference would affect the price at the time to sell? Thank you, Mike
  2. Hi Just wondering if anyone can help me identifying this watch I have.. http://i.picresize.com/UiVk Id appreciate any info. Thank You
  3. Anybody know anything about Dubois et fils pocket watches?
  4. Does anyone out there have experience of Jaeger leCoultre watches they want to share? I have just acquired a gold ladies J lC and wonder how to identify age, for example. It is gold and has a number 95065 stamped on the back. It looks like a Reverso - but doesn't seem to reverse, as it were. I'd say it was from the 70's but it's hard to judge...
  5. KevinD

    Kevin

    My name is Kevin. I am a pocket watch aficionado. I am lucky that my family has handed down pocket watches from various family members mostly circa 1800's. I am in the process of restoring most of the watches. I have one of particular interest that is fully restored. It is a Dubois "&sons" two train jumping seconds pocket watch from the mid 1850's. It basically has two separate watch faces on the main face with a sweep second hand that can be turned on and off (like a stop watch). I would love to attach photos but have not figured out how to do that in this format. My purpose in doing this forum is to continue research on this weird watch as well as others that I have. My best guess is that this type of pocket watch was used by individuals involved with horse racing. I look forward to hearing from all of you experts. thanks!
  6. Hi Guys Just got a vintage Omega Constellation 1969. The date is not working would like to know why. The date changes when I pull out the winder to the first position and set the date but when the watch is ticking and goes past 12 o'clock the date will not change please advice Thanks Rob
  7. Hi Guys, How are you doing? It is the first time a join a watch forum :-) I am Dominic Vonbern a Swiss watch designer and artist you can see some of my old work here www.dominicvonbern.com I have been working for brands like Eterna And Porsche Design and many other brands in Switzerland for the last 15 years. So you definitely know my work. Just let me know if you know one of those watches and what do you think about them. have a nice day Dominic
  8. isn't it strange how sometimes you forget you've got something I remember my mum buying me a tissot pr50 in 2005 for my birthday woe it a couple of times in fact I was scared to wear it it looked so delicate , anyway it still has its original box from hl browns in Sheffield and papers with the serial number j376/476 dated 5/2/2005 set on the leather strap with the black face , never really looked in the box but it has a little booklet of racetracks anyway just a bit about what will be my first watch in my watch box for 6 watches regards
  9. This vintage Rolex 1030 movement arrived in sad shape. It had a number of problems, one resulting from lack of regular servicing and the other from botched work. Our first task is to repair a worn arbor bushing in the barrel bridge. This is a good example of what happens if you don't service movements on a regular interval, and remove the gunk that was oil and that at one time lubricated the pivots. But now, as a result of contaminants such as dust (which is very abrasive), the oil has become an effective grinding paste which very quickly can wear the pivots and arbors, with no access to spares, especially where vintage watches are concerned, the only hope is to restore the watch by repairing it, as such you can expect higher repair costs than servicing alone, along with loss of originality. So lets have a look at the state of the movement, always a surprise to see the dirt and gunk that seeps past the worn out dried o'rings in the crown and tube. One of the biggest weaknesses of poor servicing, no one seems to want to change the o'rings in the crowns and tubes. This looks like a piece of aluminium and how it got here is beyond me. During the disassembly I notice a wear mark on the barrel bridge, there shouldn't be one because the winding wheel should not touch the bridge and on the winding wheel there is also a wear spot So next I check the end and side shakes of the barrel and this is what I find. With the barrel sitting normal there is the proper clearance between it and the bottom of the barrel bridge. If I press on the side of the barrel with a piece of pegwood this is what happens, there is so much side shake that the barrel is touching the bottom of the bridge, this is not acceptable and has to be repaired. If you look closely at the barrel bushing you can see that one side is worn out. So I can't leave that damage in place, it has to be repaired. Barrel Bridge repair The bridge is removed and installed in my jewelling tool for reaming of the hole. I use the jewelling tool not only because it has reamers, but more importantly the hole I cut has to be perfectly upright with regards to the bridge, using the jewelling tool ensures that it's done properly. Overall view of the tool with the reamer in place and ready to cut away the damage. Because the damage is less than 1/2 of the overall circumference I am not worried about the new hole not being centered, or that I create a depthing error between the barrel and center wheel. I remove a bit of material at a time, and check as I progress on the relationship between the wear mark and the new hole, once the reamer reaches the same circumference as the wear spot, I'll stop. Close up view of the reaming taking place. Here's the results, a nice round hole perfectly centered on the original location. With that taken care of, I am left with a burr on both sides of the bridge, so these are carefully removed with a cutter, done by hand so that I don't take away too much material. Next step is to make a new brass bushing, starting with some raw round bar in the lathe. The ID is drilled undersize so that I can custom fit it to the arbour once it's in place. The OD is machined to a few hundred's oversize so that I can get a nice friction fit. Here's a view of the gap I have to fill, you can see the barrel arbor location compared to the enlarged hole that the bushing has to fill. The new bushing is parted off and ready for installation, it is seated from below, just flush with the top surface. Close up view once it's pressed home and secured with a drop of loctite. Extra material left over on the bottom of the bridge that I will file away very carefully. And with some careful reaming the final fit with the end and side shakes adjusted, problem solved...but more to come, there were other issues that needed fixing. Stay tuned for Part 2 of this job. So after the repair to the barrel bridge, the remainder of the servicing and inspection and assembly went well. No other problems were noted with the movement, that is until I wound it up and was faced with a balance doing about + - 90 degrees of amplitude. After all the normal checks under my 4X loupe and not finding any issues, I got out the microscope and had a closer look at the staff pivots, and noted that they had circular groves on them as well as a slight bend. Balance Staff Replacement I went ahead and removed the collet and hairspring, normally an easy job, but instead of the normal twist the collet off while pulling up and it loosens and comes right off, in this case the collet was doing the reverse, and tightening as I tried to remove it. Only by using the lifting levers was I able to get the collet off and then I immediately noted the problem, the collet seat on the staff was quite damaged and covered with turning groves. Taking off the roller table I found similar damage, so someone replaced the staff at some time in the past and did a botched job of it. Here's a view of the staff, if you wonder why I didn't note the pivot damage under the 4X loupe, consider that the overall length of the staff is 3mm and the pivots have a diameter of 0.07mm, quite small by anyone's standards. Note how rough the collet seat is. Here's an overall view of the balance with old staff, the roller table and the hairspring I know that some watchmakers believe that cutting away the staff rivet is not required before you punch out the staff, but I am not one of them. The only proper way to ensure that you don't damage the balance arm during staff removal, is to cut the rivet on the staff that secures it to the balance arm. The balance staff is attached to the balance arm by peening and riveting the staff to the arm, so before pressing the staff out of the arm I will cut the rivet head off, here is the balance in the lathe getting the rivet cut off. Once the rivet head is gone, there is no risk of damage to the balance arm, so the staff is pressed out with my Platax tool. Staff is out and no damage caused to the arm. Next up, lets install my new staff. New Balance Staff Here is an overall size view of the new staff before installation. And here is the staff being riveted in the staking set. I always use a stump or a reverso punch to not risk damaging the plate on the tool. Next the roller table is installed, then the balance is mounted in the movement and the balance cock put in place and secured. Before going any further I check the end and side shakes and the alignment with the roller table and pallet, it all looks good. Here is a nice close up of the pallet and roller alignment. The next mandatory step is to "poise" the balance, making sure it has no heavy spots. Of all the steps required for a proper staff replacement, poising has to be the most important as far as time keeping is concerned. The balance with roller table installed is mounted in a perfectly level poising tool, and rotated gently. Never blow on any watch parts, especially a balance, blowing always includes spit, which is not good for watches at all. The fine paint brush is used to gently rotate the balance checking for a heavy point. For the poising to be accurate, the staff has to sit on the flat part of the pivots, not on the rounded conical section. It's unlikely that you will ever have a staff replacement where the poise is good, in this case it was out, one side was very heavy, most probably partially due to the botched work of the prior watchmaker. In fact the poise was out by so much that I had to install copper washers on the light side of the balance to get it even close to being poised. Here you can see the copper washers being installed under the timing screws. Once I had the washers installed and the poise close to what it needed to be, I did the final adjustment with the cutter and removed a slight bit off the heavy screw head. Next step is to reinstall the hairspring, making sure to get the beat as close as possible to avoid repeated removals and installations of the balance wheel. And finally the balance is installed on the movement, it's given a wind and the amplitude is now over 270 degrees up from the 90 degrees I had with the old staff. I check the poise by placing the movement in a vertical position on the timer, and because there is no change to the rate it confirms that the poise is good. If this movement had been serviced at regular 5 year intervals, it would not have worn out the barrel bushing. As far as the original damaged balance staff, that comes down to an unqualified or unskilled watchmaker not doing his job properly. Moral of the story, service your watch on a regular basis and make sure you use a competent watchmaker. Thank you for reading.
  10. Hello I need to verify if my Bvlgari watch is authentic or replica fake as i bought it used from a local person !! Thank you ! http://www2.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/607272737.jpg http://www2.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/894454292.jpghttp://www2.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/477124992.jpg http://www14.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/736168123.jpg http://www14.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/847360641.jpg http://www14.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/315917355.jpg http://www11.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/829340337.jpg http://www11.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/494883929.jpg http://www11.0zz0.com/2016/12/20/18/514051362.jpg
  11. Hi, I've acquired this lovely looking Swiss Made watch, by Anglo-Swiss, model: Cavalry. I can't see any other one like it on the Internet - has anyone any experience of this manufacturer? Is it generally a good watch? I see a look of references to India despite being "so called" Swiss Made.
  12. I was just down at Bicester Village and saw they had quite a lot of watch offers on for winter sales, thought id share incase anybody was interested. Ill go in order of how you pass the stores from the train station: Time & Gems offers: JeanRichard 65% off all watches Girard Perregaux 40% - 50% off all watches Ulysse Nardin - 40% off all watches Gucci - 40% off all watches Most the watches are still on the brands sites. L'Atelier They had a good selection of Rotary watches at around 40% off for a few hundred quid. They also sold some older Eterna watches at around 40% Baume & Mercier 40% off on older models Corum watches at 35% Tag heuer Most their offers were on quartz watches at 50% off They generally weren't offering anything extra but had a 50% discount off all the unsold watches from the last 5 years the guy mentioned. Hour Passion Swatch watches - 35% off Tissot and Rado and 35% off Longines older models at 40% off
  13. Hi felt the urge to post on this forum today, as often read on here but never posted. just received the below today as a reasonably priced early Christmas present. Any thoughts?
  14. Hi all I am seriously considering buying an Omega Aqua Terra ( 231.23.42.21.02.001 ) but I'm not definite. Haven't quite earned the money yet. My dilemma is that while I love the look of the watch I really wonder if it is a good idea to buy the gold trimmings. I will try and upload the pictures later. Don't get quite how to do it yet. My query is about the gold. While it looks great it seems as though I would be paying about £1350.00 for about 6 grams of gold in total. It looks really classy but I don't want to look like a total mug. Is it worth the extra expense or should I just go for the all steel or golf captain versions? Any advice would be much appreciated. T
  15. Do we have any forum members who own vintage Rados ? I have a few vintage Rados myself, including a Green Horse, Starliner and Jetliner. Some of their watches from the 60s and 70s are design classics IMHO, don't often wear them often though as I find some of them a bit small. So if you've got one let's see it !! here's My Green Horse two tone.
  16. been after one for a while but very good ones go for silly prices... plenty of patina on this one and its been serviced recently and keeps excellent time...
  17. Hi, I have a Cartier chronoscaph watch in my collection which I would like to tidy up and get it looking as good as new. The only part of it (really) that could do with a polish is the bezel. When I took it into a local jewellers he said that he couldn't polish it as it may affect/rub out the Roman numerals enscribed around it. I have since purchased a spare bezel but he said he cannot fit it because it needs a special Cartier tool to remove the existing one. Long story but I'm not sending it to Cartier to resolve so does anyone know of anywhere that could do such a job? Any advice would be gratefully received. Thanks
  18. Melb

    Hello!

    Hello, new to the forum, we are clearing my father in laws house and have come across a watch collection, so looking forward to gaining some knowledge!
  19. Hi guys, I have recently acquired a vintage Jaquet Droz ladies watch. The face reads Jaquet Droz-17 Jewels incabloc. I know the name is now the maker of very expensive watches but research I have done suggests that there is no relation to older watches and the current ones. It is in excellent vintage condition and works perfectly. The strap appears to be silver but is not hallmarked: however it does have some weight to it for such a petite watch Could anyone help me with an approximate date of the watch and whether there is any value to it at all please? I have a picture but am unsure how to attach! Sorry! Kind regards Linzi
  20. Hi All. I wanted to reach out to you regarding my kickstarter project. I've started drawing watches in a minimalist style and wanted to share my project with you to anybody who is interested. Give it a read and see what you think! *link removed*
  21. I try not to show every new watch that comes my way these days, for fear of boring you (Anyone want to hear about the 14k ladies Omega that also came today? Thought not). But this one is a bit special and rare, and appeals to the collector and enthusiast that rubs through me still. I wanted something a little bit special, but also a bit unusual. What I was thinking was a Royal Oak, but then thus came up The Millenary Chronograph . More to follow
  22. Hello i thought i would show a picture of my personal watch which i received from my wife for my 30th birthday as i always wanted a good watch. Its a breitling avenger 2 even though i have a skinny wrist and we all know breitling is normally a big chunky type watch it seems to sit nicely and look fine on my wrist. I do love it but hate scratching it :). My knock about watch which i have had since 14
  23. Hello I am making a custom pocket watch for a friend and would appreciate some guidance on parts. I will be making the case, so can alter it to fit the movement, crystal etc but I am struggling to find the following compatible parts and not having much response from suppliers. Can anyone give me recommendations on specific parts to purchase for the following specification and also any recommended UK suppliers? I can source some of these parts on Esslinger.com but I'd like to find somewhere in the UK. A pocket watch crystal, diameter 55mm and 2mm thick I am looking for a simple 2-hand Ronda movement with 1 jewel and have been advised that the Ronda 512 would be a good option for a pocket watch - would you agree? The face I am making is 1mm thick but can be made thinner if hands won't attach to movement http://www.ronda.ch/en/quartz-movements/quartz-essentials/ronda-powertech-500/caliber/512/ Struggling to find appropriately sized minute/hour hands in white - simple baton style A compatible stem extension for this movement Any advice / recommendations are greatly appreciated. I'm beginning to think I have bitten off more than I can chew with this project! Many thanks,
  24. Hi,Just wondering whether anyone here could offer any information on this watch? I bought it in the New Year Harrod's sale with my first ever paycheck about 21 years ago. It's since been sitting in a cupboard so is in good condition and I got it up and running for the first time since then with a new battery today.With a little Googling, I discovered that 'Swiss Army Brand' was the marketing name for Forschner Swiss Army watches in the 1990s, as part of the long and complicated history of the Swiss Army name. It has a 'stopwatch' that moves the second hand round in half second intervals, counts the minutes around up to 30 minutes in the left hand side mini-dial and the hours move around up to 12 hours in the right hand side mini dial. All the dials of the stopwatch can be reset to zero with a single push of the lower rhs button, and it seems to have a nice, accurate movement when it does so. There's also a date mini-dial at the bottom.The jeweler who replaced the battery said it would cost £100s to service because the "mechanism isn't available any more". I don't have the receipt any more but from memory I think the RRP was about £400+ at the time and I paid half of that because it was on sale. I have no idea whether watches like these keep any value? Not that I want to sell it, just wondered.It's 100m waterproof. The number '18780' appears on the back but I can't find anything under this with a basic Google search. There's also a little '125' on the strap but I suspect this might be the strap type number or something about the stainless steel.
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