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  1. Hallo. I have just got in to wrist watches. I have this incomplete mechanical movement and would love to know what it is and how it works. I want to repair it myself and as it is incomplete and not working I would live to get it up and running again to be able to ware it Any information would be warmly welcomed as to what type it is, when it was made etc I can't find away to upload my picture but I have found a similar one the Web. Many thanks for your help. How do you insert a picture. So frustrating.
  2. Hi there I'm new here but I hope you don't mind the intrusion. About five years ago my wife gifted me a Junghans Max Bill 027/3500.00 in lieu of a wedding ring as I prefer not to wear a ring. The watch was in working order and cosmetically perfect except for a small crack on the plexi. Aware that it was due a service I sent it to a watch repairer for a new plexi and a full service. He's someone I've seen recommended here and has a decent reputation online. It was returned to me today with the following issues: - The new plexi is spinning freely in the case and isn't a good match to the OG crystal. - The face of the watch has obvious damage with paint missing from two of the second digits. There's also dust/dirt on the face that wasn't present previously and I think the face is somehow off-centre now as the bevel on the plexi makes the digits toward the bottom and left side almost illegible. - The back has a bad scratch near one of the holes for the tool and has been replaced at a strange angle so the Max Bill signature is at 30deg rather than aligned as previously (the least of my problems). - The new plexi is marked on the underside and casting shadows onto the face. That's what I can see and of course now I'm worrying about the movement, which was keeping time fine. It's too early to say how it is since the service. Before I speak to him what's a sensible course of action here? I don't want this guy to touch my watch again but I can't live with it like this, it's a mess. The damage to the face is the most upsetting. I was cautious and have before photos, for what it's worth. Thanks for reading, it's appreciated.
  3. Hello everyone, I've recently acquired a Ruhla watch and am hoping some of you might be able to make a more educated guess than I can at the age of it. The person I bought this from thought it was 1980s but were no more specific than that (which makes me think that might have been a wild guess!). A couple of things I've read online make me suspect it could be a little older but I'm no expert! It's an unusual blue, almost teal / turquoise colour with "Ruhla", "Antimagnetic" and "Made in Germany" printed on in white. There's a date dial with red numbers on white and it has whatever the little magnifying bit over the date in the acrylic crystal is called! ('Date en-bigger-er'?). The back appears to be a snap-on case back. I have looked all around the edge but cannot see a lip anywhere for lifting the case back off. I would like to be able to take the case back off if anyone can advise how to safely do this. The hour hand appears to occasionally (not always) lag behind in varying degrees. E.g it is sometimes shows on the hour when the minute hand it as half-past (half an hour behind), or sometimes shows just before the hour when the minute hand is at 12 (just a few minutes behind). I suspect it has not been worn or wound for years so am currently winding it up and just allowing it to run for a few days to see if this loosens up any stuck workings. Any other tips? Things to check to diagnose any other problems? All advice much appreciated! Thanks very much! Chris
  4. My first 400 Day suspension project which I collected from a nice gent local to me, base brass work was in quite a state so that has been stripped and boiled in a pan of water to remove the laquer and is polishing up nicely. The movement is in great general condition though it seems to have been oiled weekly as it was dripping in oil, escapement works as it should and the mainspring is in good condition, hopefully a good service and clean plus the replacement of the suspension spring which is about 1 cm too short. As I am still trying to get hold of the "400 day clock bible" I could do with a little help with identifying the clock for the suspension spring measurements and thickness. As per the title this is a Kern clock with the KS logo with the winder on the right, backplate dimensions are 60mm x 44mm. See photo attached (hopefully). Thank you for any assistance.
  5. I'm looking for some information to identify a Leica watch that I bought from "The Red House" in Gibraltar about 2002 - 2005. The Red House sold everything Leica, Cameras - range finders & binoculars and I have no reason to suspect it was not from Leica. I've tried Googling, e-Bay and all other searches I can think of but nothing gives any results. The watch has a round stainless steel body, 25mm dia, housed in an oblong Titanium surround 27mm x 35mm. On the reverse of the case is engraved LEICA COLLECTION - MADE IN GERMANY - STAINLESS STEEL _ 5ATM. The face is completely plain except fo the name "LEICA" top centre and a date indicator 1.5mm in diameter at the 6 position. The hours indicators are simple radial dashes, 2mm long, at each of the hours with no numbers shown. The hour and minute hands are black, a simple triangular shape tapering to to a point. The Titanium sweep second hand is a very narrow triangle also tapering to a point. I've tried to attached a photo from my album but unsuccessful. Any information would be most welcome.
  6. I acquired this watch 30 years ago, totally forgot about it until my antiques mad 8 year old son found it. Does anyone know anything about it and its possible value?
  7. The man from TNT (FedEx) turned up today with my first new watch for almost a year. I like small manufacturers, what could be called high quality and genuinely in-house capable micro-brands -- hence my entries in this section about Moser (ca. 1500 pieces per year), Grossmann (ca. 400) and Dornblüth (about 200). This time I was looking for something different, and in conversation on this forum with the usual suspects. @WRENCH suggested a Benzinger. I knew nothing of the brand, but had always wanted a "guilloché main" watch, so I pursued the idea. After a long telephone conversation with the delightful Mr. Benzinger, and several emails with Mrs. Benzinger, I plumped for the "Subscription 3a". The watch is 42mm in diameter, 11mm deep, has a stainless steel case with sapphire front and back, and features an alligator strap with a steel deployant buckle. The movement is a humble Unitas 6498 (non hacking) which has been rendered , shall we say, a little less humble at the hands of Mr. Benzinger. In case anyone is wondering, the legend around the case back reads: "skeltonized by hand", "guilloché bu hand", "engraved by hand", and "unique piece". And, so to the pics: (How can you not like a man who drinks decent Gigondas? IMHO at least as good as neighbour Châteauneuf du Pape and half the price )
  8. Hello, I bought this grand father clock yesterday and tried to find more information about it. I did see a PHS stamp pointing to Philip Haas and Son, but found nothing more when I tried to look it up online. Don’t really know how to insert photos from url. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Hi everyone, Koha was a German brand of watch. Koha watches were manufactured in the town of Ellwangen, in the state of Baden-Wurttemberg in the 1950's, 1960's and 1970's. The company was run by Hans Kohen, who had premises on Wolfgangsklinge Street. My watch has an AS-1130 Swiss movement, with 17J, and is 34mm in diameter. Knowing this information, how do I go about dating it? The watch is in need of a new balance staff (a friend of mine dropped it! ***) a crystal clean, re lume of the hands and a service, then it's good to go. Can anyone elaborate on the history of Koha watches as there doesn't seem to be a lot of examples out there to study? Can I have your opinions for a strap on the basis that I like the colour Olive. Thanks
  10. My latest speculative punt, an "oh, that might be interesting" last minute bid. Turns out to be a Junghans 17J 693.83 (J93/1). Maybe not that interesting, but it's my first venture into the German watch industry. 30.5mm case, so it's small.
  11. It would be interesting to know, if you could travel today, which watches would you take on an Antarctic journey? I watched this video (with subtitles. Original Language: German) and found the choice quite interesting: I look forward to your selection... and please explain briefly why you would choose them!
  12. As a person of the "elderly persuasion", I am still practising social distancing as effectively as possible -- meaning I have time to do some silly things which I might not have thought of doing before. So, whilst I spend a lot of time gazing at the faces and movements of the pieces in my collection, I thought I would take a look at the fastenings (tangs and deployants) and mark them out of ten. So, here goes . . . . . . . . 1/10 (appalling) A horrible piece of pressed steel. Flimsy and rickety. If this cost more than a penny or two to make they haven't got their processes under control. I am not a bracelet person, so I thought it only fair to check by comparison. Luckily, in the box, I do have a bracelet for my Sport Evo. Comparing the fastenings was like matching a Tonka toy against an S-Class. Tacky. Enough said. 5/10 (perfectly adequate, but could do better with a bit of thought) Nicely made, simply polished tang buckles -- each featuring the manufacturer's logo (the Meistersinger "smile", the Zenith star, and the AP initials). The star (in considerable relief) is a bit of a dust trap. The AP logo appears to be simply cast in, and is not sharply defined. 6/10 (meets expectations for the price point) Well made brushed steel tang buckle on the Flieger, featuring fairly industrial, but pin sharp, engraving. Exactly what I'd expect from Nomos -- simply polished but nicely etched logo. Simply polished, but nicely made tang on the Senator -- the (seemingly) cast in double-G logo is very well executed. 7/10 (quite pleasing) The Dornie deployant is very comfortable. Pressed steel cover, but solidly made, nicely brushed and engraved. A company which seems to get by without a logo (who knew?). The nicely brushed tang from the Panoreserve is more substantial than the Senator item. The tangs from the Atum Pure (steel) and the Index (WG) are simply polished but very well made (and shaped to accommodate the logo) and beautifully engraved. 8/10 (pleasing) The very solid deployant from the Benu is well made and extremely comfortable (otherwise as the other two MGs above). The Tang from the Sport Evo Pano is extremely robust, and finished in a combination of polished and brushed. 9/10 (surpassing expectations) Very robust design and construction, featuring three finishes (polished, brushed and ribbed (to match the sides of the watch)). Lovely engraving. A minor joy to behold.
  13. Hello all Firstly, thank you for allowing me access to your forum. I've always liked to have one "nice" watch since I treated myself coming out of my apprenticeship in early 90's. Through the years I cycled through a few but nearly always one at a time .... until fairly recently. 2 things happened in quick succession which found me in receipt of 3 "new" watches. I inherited a gold mechanical wind Bulova from grandfather / father. I got burgled and splurged on a new Omega Seamaster with the insurance money covering my pinched Tag Aquaracer Calibre S. I spotted the same model Tag Aquaracer at an auction and had to buy again as my missus had actually bought for me. It has started a really keen interest in movements & history of the manufacturers. My small collection has grown a bit and I'm always looking for my next purchase. Look forward to discussing more on the forum. Regards.
  14. Hi Simon, Can this watch be repaired by the watch seller ? Is it worth me paying 36€ to have it transported back to them by road to England ? Or can I get it repaired locally by a watch maker ? Does it need to be replaced or can it be repaired ? The dial has come off on a door ... It's a 140£ boss watch Thanks,
  15. Sculptor Susan Beatrice recycles old watch parts and turns them into fascinating artistic creations like the ones below. She has the gift to pull elegant forms out of lifeless machinery. Even if you are not a steampunk fan you will probably still enjoy this.
  16. Hi all, Any advice on how to remove the hands from this Estyma? Don't want to use any more force than I have with hand removers or a cannon pinion remover. Thanks, Billy https://photos.app.goo.gl/yC63R81P5fdch8TC8 https://photos.app.goo.gl/yTyGEPAUrGXpJoJw5 https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1GEP6TKxkgLgoo59 https://photos.app.goo.gl/8yzjJomFi2QHa8Qw9
  17. Hello all, I am an keen collector of wrist watches so naturally I love reading this forum however, I am not knowledgable on Clocks. I was given this Hermle Mantle clock from a family member as it runs 15 mins late. I do not know anything about it and I am not really a fan of it and it’s loud ticking so am pondering the idea of selling it. I have no idea reading it’s value nor it’s rarity. i have managed to find the clock on the Hermle website but I believe the wood on mine is not mahogany, it’s a lot lighter in colour. https://www.hermleclock.com/Product/debden-7264 I have taken images but can not find a way of posting them in the post. Any information any friends can give would be really appreciated! Best, Matt
  18. Help ! My Eurochron radio watch worked perfectly since I bought it in 2004 (given to me by Junghans when their watch failed). However in early December 2019 after 3 months with a new battery it stopped setting itself. The watch still runs perfectly but won't radio set. I have been unable to find out from any source whether it is the watch or DCF that is at fault. There might be a problem with DCF which from their website seems to have gone to DCF77.5 and it seems that the power has been reduced. I live approximately 1100km from Frankfurt. I know Eurochron is extinct but I cannot find any watch which will work with MSF - any information gratefully received !!
  19. Hello, I am reaching out to the clock community in the hope of tracking down an early 1930s German wall clock which was stolen about a month ago from South London. It is has great sentimental value to my family as it was a wedding present to my grandmother. Unfortunately I can't find a closer photo of the face but it has a logo below the 12 which includes an eagle. The other identifiers are a damaged area towards the top of the clock where some of the wood was broken off. Also the pendulum was not with the clock at the time it was stolen. Any information will be greatly received and a modest reward is offered. Any help greatly appreciated.
  20. I was thinking of buying the ocean 2. I was wondering if any members had bought one and if they think a leather strap would look good. As you cant see them in the flesh its hard to tell what it would look like. Also did you buy it off the Steinhart website and if yes did you have to pay vat on coming through customs. Thanks.
  21. I'm interested in how people organise their watch collections. I personally just do the dress, tool, beater - Tangente, BB Chrono and Casio F-91W respectively (although I'm in the midst of selling my BB Chrono and have certainly been swooning over the Rolex Explorer I for some time now). Do you just collect from certain brands, certain models or according to the type of tool watch (one dive, one chrono etc.)? As a bonus question, advice as to what I should replace the BB Chrono with would be welcome.
  22. I am wondering if anyone can help me 'pin the tail on the donkey' with a pocket watch that came in a bundle of watches I bought. I have gone down my usual routes of trying to get info on the movement and the case, and I have come up with nothing. It was made between 1880 and 1933 (stamped with grouse), but, my guess is around 1900. the case has a 'linked chain' logo which I guess is the case makers mark and the movement has a capital i within a diamond stamped on the barrel bridge. I would appreciate any help as I am totally lost with this one.
  23. Hi everyone. I’m looking to identify a wristwatch bought circa 1954 in Berlin for my wife’s grandfather. It’s an Arctos Parat. Shockproof and waterproof, apparently! It would be interesting to know a little about these watches. It looks to be an everyday item which I remember him wearing for many years until it stopped. Finally, I also wonder where in the UK I might get it repaired. It’s is rough but complete order, and has sentimental value but, I’m sure, no other value! Right now, I cannot fathom how to add a photo from the iPad I’m typing on. I’ll keep working on that....
  24. I have 2 Alpina Pocket Chronographs. Both have Minerva Cal 19/9 CH movements. One is fully marked on the case for the Kriegsmarine Coastal Artillery and the other in a plain case. They worked fine until I had the bright idea of giving the cases a light polish, I removed the movements from the cases to do this. I have stripped and reassembled many standard pocket watches in the past without a problem. Put the movements back in and carefully replaced the winding stems, but neither of them will lock in place with the locking screw in the movement. The winder will just pull back out without any effort, One will wind and the other set, there is no switch over from Wind to Setting function. Has anyone had the same experience and can provide any advice please? The Minerva movement was used but a number of brands in the 1930/40's This is my first post, I have a small collection of military watches and will post information and images when I learn how to do that, I am not very internet savvy
  25. I recently bought the above watch on ebay.de, so it's presumably receiving the German time-signal, although, living in London, I thought it would still be in range. The watch persists in being 1 hour ahead of GMT, and, in the absence of any instructions (I have searched the web), I cannot re-set the watch. The strange thing is that there is no recessed button, which I would have expect to find to change the time, only 3 "solid" buttons to change the mode, etc; one of the modes currently shows W 29 - 18, which is curious! The only numbers on the watch case are 18 2229. I'd be grateful for any advice on re-setting the watch to the correct time (apart from going to Germany!).
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