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Found 50 results

  1. Hi Simon, new member here. I found this forum by Googling “Sicura repairs” so I believe you’ve worked on these watches before? I inherited this Sicura which is in need of some TLC- https://imgur.com/gallery/84BDiZy It runs for about 30 mins then stops. Is this something you think you could fix? Many thanks in advance!
  2. I decided to change the battery on my Bulova myself. I did have some one else replace it last time and they mentioned that the back was very tight and a press was needed to replace the back so bought one. Result http://www.23hq.com/ajohnw/photo/61879075 I decided that the die at the bottom was bending so tried something more solid. I put my entire weight on the press and it still wouldn't go in before breaking the glass. Main reason for posting is replacing the crystal and getting the stem out. For some reason I can't use the insert image from url so can only provide a link showing the inside of the watch http://www.23hq.com/ajohnw/photo/61879068 No problem removing the white plastic movement holder but am unsure about the insulator over the movement. The watch uses a lithium coin cell. I assume the insulator can be flicked out some how and could to with a clue before having a go. Under that I expect to find something to press etc to allow the stem to be removed. I bought a newer model of the same watch after breaking the glass. The have gone to a rather smooth second hand sweep and much prefer the older one which mimics a high quality auto's movement - perfectly in my view. I might even put the movement in the newer watch. Might be best to make sure my new dual pillar screw jack type press can get the back on before even contemplating that. John -
  3. Hi all, I've got a quartz ETA 455.412 movement - everything appears to be in good shape until the seconds hand reaches around 12 seconds and then it just stops. I pulled the crown into the second position and pushed it back in a few times and I can see that it's itching to move but it can't. On further inspection I noticed that if you gave the seconds hand a slight nudge it would go past this point and then cycle around until it reached the same point and stopped again. I thought that the hand might be magnetised at first but after giving it a nudge there is a definite resistance and a little bit of a click as it pushes past the point. Any ideas before i dismantle it? Cheers Jae
  4. I have just bought an old Seiko which was made in October 1965 and it has a pretty filthy dial. It is a 6205-8940 DIASHOCK SELFDATER, 24 JEWELS, it's had a tough life as you can tell by the photo, but, it is working well, keeping very good time. I would like to clean up the dial, but, I understand it will never look great. Someone (watch butcher) has obviously had a go at cleaning previously and been rather rough with it. Am I right in thinking that the writing is inked and then varnished, or, is it some sort of vinyl decal? Some advice would really be appreciated.
  5. Hi A mate of mine has an Omega Seamaster Cosmic but he had the back engraved which has devalued the watch, anyway a back can be sourced or fixed etc. Maybe tig welding the back and metal polishing it? Cheers
  6. Hello All, Got a bit of a funny one with a seiko 7F39 moon phase movement. The stem keeps falling out, I've had it open and tried to diagnose. As far as I can see, the Setting lever is catching the stem in the first position but as soon as I pull it into the second time setting position it doesn't catch and just falls out. The Yolk is properly attached to the clutch so I can't see that is the problem. Could it be that the setting lever is just bit worn? I'm thinking about bending the lip that catches the stem so it stays engaged. I'd rather not bodge it but I can't find any replacement parts or movements, or even if there are any non seiko movements out there that can replace it. Any help would be great, this ones giving me a bit of headache. Cheers
  7. Hello, I'm a newby, I have a circa. 1979 Omega Constellation DD 368 0855 with steel & gold bracelet. A small screw or bolt is missing from one of the link joints. I have no idea how to identify it, or find a replacement part. I will attach some Imgur images, the first couple show the watch, the rest show the bracelet and highlight the area where the missing part is. The adjacent links on this side of the bracelet have screw heads, I presume this is the same and just worked loose. I need help in sorting this out, rather than go to an Omega shop and be stared at. I have a small collection of NOS 1970s Omega watches, this is my hands down favourite. It is so 70s but also has the proportions of an Apple watch. All help gratefully received!
  8. So i've had my RLT 29 for about 13 years now, it was a gift from my dad as he it didn't suit him but I loved it unfortunately teenage HC was an idiot as such the watch has lost its original crown (unique to the Tag Edge) and had its strap broken several times and so its spent the last few years on a rubber strap i've never been that keen on and couldn't afford to replace with something I really loved all this meant that I ended up with this: Don't get me wrong I still loved it but the lack of original crown and movement bugged me and I still don't love that strap. Recently I decided to give this watch a new breath of life as I absolutely love the uniqueness of it and the story behind it so I tracked down an original crown on ebay and grabbed that and found an ETA 955.112 which the watch would have originally shipped with if had of gone into production with a Tag stamp on it so i leapt on that too. So off it went to have the new movement fitted and crown installed, all well and good but before i received and email saying the watch had stopped. A few days later it was running fine and I got the watch sent back to me. All was well and good but when the watch reached me it had lost half an hour, I thought this was a little odd but it may have just been set wrong or been excessively thrown around so I reset it and carried on. The next day it lost another half an hour so I set it again and carried on, that evening however I looked down and discovered I had lost 3 HOURS! Not just that but the movement had leaked oil and stained my dial. And so back it went to have the movement removed so I could send it back on ebay for a refund, lesson learned never buy a used movement from ebay! I was very fortunate that the install was done by @Roy who was not only able to source me a new 955.112 very quickly but also happened to have a gorgeous dial that would fit the watch, not only that but was able to source me a new second hand to match it at an incredible pace. While all this was going on I decided I may as well go all out and so I commissioned a new strap from Steveo who made me a strap that actually perfectly fits my incredibly awkward 17.5mm lug width and perfectly suits the new aesthetic of the watch, and so a few weeks down the line I am now the proud owner of this beauty and it's like a completely new watch: Through this whole thing Roy has been amazing and I cannot thank him enough for his rapid turnaround, great communication and for just being a complete gentleman through this whole process. Also I cannot recommend Steveo enough for custom straps, they are beautifully made and look fantastic! Overall I am completely smitten with the new look of the watch and get complemented on it almost daily, even by non watch people and it just feels that bit more special.
  9. Hi I am reaching out for the help of someone who owns an Orient Mako III (Kano) RA-AA0011B19B. The crown has broken off and lost and contacting Orient in respect of sourcing a replacement or even information about the dimensions of the crown have been met with polite refusal. I was hoping that perhaps someone on the forum who owns an intact Kano could give me a rough idea of the diameter and length of the crown so I can source a generic replacement either from a shop that sells parts or Ebay. Any help or advice would be very welcome . Thanks in advance Paul
  10. Can you tell me what type of strap this is with the screws, and if you can give me some products similar so I can keep the original buckle , This is a Buler Alpha performance, very difficult to find because it is one of the last watches the company made before it closed. For more info DM I cant find the warranty card or manual etc. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16GmPTCN-8PkEZpMbD1TAgOKdFCQwaLPR?usp=sharing
  11. Hello all, I'm new to the forum. I want to create a mod for a an invicta pro diver inspired by the Omega Seamaster Commander. For this, I'm looking for a white dial with applied indices and a date window that will fit the Seiko NH35a movement. I found similar things, I found this dial, but it has no date window. I also found this dial which looks perfect and this dial which is also good, but they are for a MIYOTA 8215, 821A & 8205 and not Seiko. Could you please help me find what I'm looking for either the first one with a date window, or one of the latter two that fit a Seiko NH35a movement. Images of the dials in the links, in order:
  12. Hi There. I have a 15540-004 which keeps losing it's stem & crown. I have a spare miyota mechanism for it, & some stems & crowns to replace the missing items, but I can't figure out how to replace the mechanism. Normally, once the stem is out, the watch face can just fall out through the back. This one doesn't, so how can I get the hands to fit onto the new mechanism? Do I have to press the face & glass out from the back? Cheers, Woody.
  13. Hi All I have recently inherited a Badollet pocket watch and I am wondering what approximate age it is. (For some reason, the forum is not allowing me to upload pictures.) It Has a Badollet movement and the case has LFB stamp on it with the code i038i stamped bust below it. The case is extremely ornately designed with a very intricate face and it has a key for which to wind it up. It looks like it is silver plated. Does anyone by any chance know what approximate age and value this is? Unfortunately, it is missing the minute hand and the glass that is supposed to cover the face. Thank You Matt
  14. Hello, Looking for some advice. I recently found in my father's belongings a dirty dozen Vertex watch (father was in army in early sixties and fought in Borneo, I think this is the watch he used at the time) I remember him wearing it when I was young. It is not working so I took it to a watch repairer who said after having a look inside that it was not repairable due to rust inside... The balance is also broken. Can you recommend a Yorkshire based specialist who will be able to do something with it? I would love to get it up and running again... Sentimental value etc.... My everyday watch is a 1980 CWC fat boy and I would love this as an alternative... I would upload pictures but cannot work out how to do so on my phone... Thanks in advance
  15. I have a Seiko Sports 150 that has not been working as long as I can remember. I have tried to get it repaired at my local watch repairers, with no avail. Does anyone know of a trusted repair shop in Manchester or one that accepts the watch by post. Some images below: http://tinypic.com/r/ip03ee/9 http://tinypic.com/r/5upqon/9 http://tinypic.com/r/21kjhvk/9 http://tinypic.com/r/nlzk04/9
  16. Hello there, i'm a new member - looking for the benefit of experience and advice. I have a Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch, I bought new in 2008 and have used it as my everyday watch ever since, it's had several batteries and reseals over the years, but never been sent off for service etc. The watch has a few issues and I have had a quote of £325 to have it serviced and repaired. I'd like to sell the watch on, but i'm worried that after paying for the repair and servicing I may not make much in the way of a profit (i'm guessing around £80ish). Would it be worth selling a watch that is in need of repair? for parts / spares or as a project? (the crown and pin come out of the watch, and the bezel is missing the small part that makes the clicks) + the expected 10yrs of scratches? Picture below isn't my watch, but is the exact model and pretty much the condition also. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  17. Hello everyone, Over the last few weeks I've been stripping and cleaning a Helvetia 132 movement (equivalent ETA 2410 etc.). During the reassembly I managed to break one of the legs on the spring holding the shock protection cap-jewel - escape wheel, movement side. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ec07f6vfxz12zn/DSC01006.JPG?dl=0 It's not the standard jewel that is displayed in Ranfft for the Helvetia 132 / ETA 2410, but the shock-protected jewel shown by Ranfft for the Hamilton 23, here: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?00&ranfft&&2uswk&Hamilton_23 As far as I'm able to find out, it's a KIF Duofix system shock protection (also known as fixmobil?). I've searched long and hard for a source of spares, and the only place I can find who has shock protection springs to order is Jules Borel. Their item 400/551 is listed as Shock Spring, Duofix D210 10-3. There are no pictures or dimensions given. Does any one know, is this definitely the part I'm looking for, or are there different sizes of the Duofix? Also, does Borel sell to the general public, like me? They seem to be trade only, and request a VAT number for registration. Can anyone suggest another source? If I can't find the spring, what would the experts suggest? Should I just sacrifice originality and fit a bridge from a donor movement? I have one with the conventional jewel mounting, but the colour would also be wrong. Also, any tips on how to handle these springs to reduce the chances of breakage (tools, magnification, technique) are very much appreciated! Many thanks for any help and advice. By the way, I had trouble loading pictures from Dropbox at the last attempt, but it did work eventually, so please bear with me. Re the photo. The link takes you to Dropbox, and the picture appears briefly, then disappears. If you click "Oder weiter zur Webseite" at the bottom, it will be displayed indefinitely.
  18. Hi, when replacing the battery in my Luminox without my glasses on I managed to prod the coil resulting in a now dead movement and also noticed the seal has been pinched. Could you recommend someone that could undertake a replacement for me at somewhere less than the cost of a new watch! have tried some places in the Jewellery quarter but they want an arm and leg? Kind Regards Dave.
  19. Hi can anyone help me to identify one of my older Citizens please? Don't know what happened but one of my favourite Citizen watches given to me some time ago by my parents has lost its crown - looking to see if it can be repaired or not and identity the model and movement info. in case replacing the entire movement is required - also would appreciate any feedback on likely costs Thanks Jim
  20. To the Admin; not sure if this would be better in the Watchmaking and Repairs section. If so, feel free to move it. My Dad dug out this old Summit Automatic which belonged to my Grandfather. I know it's not worth anything in financial terms, but I'd like to get it restored as much as possible, for sentimental reasons. The movement (AS 1700) is fine as far as I can tell, but obviously needs a service. The whole watch was filthy, but has cleaned up well. Now to the problems. One of the spring bars was Superglued in place, as the lug is so badly damaged. Looking at it, could it be that someone has attempted a repair (with solder?) in the past? All four are damaged or worn to some extent, but this is the worst (from front and back): I would appeciate the advice of any of you regarding repair. Can it be done? If so, how? Is it a DIY job, or best left to the experts? Also, I've no idea where to get replacement seals or gaskets for the case back and the crown. These aren't the usual o-rings. The one on the back is a flat plastic gasket 30 mm i.d. 31mm o.d. and 0.25mm thick. The one on the crown (the dark orange part) is 2mm i.d. 3mm o.d. and approx. 0.7mm thick, hard plastic or resin. Are these standard parts, and still available somewhere, or can they be substituted by modern seals e.g. o-rings? Any tips, recommendations or encouragement very much appreciated!
  21. After a little help from the U.K. forum members. For my 40th (8yrs ago!!) I was treated to a rather gorgeous IWC Fliegeruhr chrono which has behaved faultlessly until the chrono reset button fell out and was lost recently. I’ve done a bit of digging, without much success and am trying to find an independent UK who could repair the watch, give her a service and generally freshen up the case and stainless strap. Any recommendations gratefully received.
  22. Anyone know how much Citizen charge to replace a movement? A customer handed me an attractive gold wristwatch to change the battery but it appears the movement has failed, Because it has very significant sentimental value I'd like Citizen to carry out the repair but they won't provide an estimate until they receive the watch, and I want to tell the customer how much it's likely to cost first. Thanks!
  23. Hello, my name is Alexander I am a 32 year old pharmacy technician. I am originally from Canada, but currently live in the United States. I am rather new to watch collecting and repair, but have always had an interest in mechanical objects. My small collection consists primarily of pocketwatches from the latter half of the nineteenth century. I do own two or three pocketwatch from the pre-war era and one watch from the late eighteenth century. My repair experience is extremely limited. I am certain that I will be asking many questions and will be happy for any advise I am given.
  24. I recently bought a vintage 18k yellow gold Cartier Panthère watch completely set with diamonds (bracelet, case and dial) at an auction. Some of the diamonds were loose and the watch did not run. A local Cartier dealer (I am in the Netherlands) sent the watch to Cartier for me, together with my Must the Cartier watch that needed a battery replacement (always ran perfectly on time). It would take about 2-3 weeks to get a quote and 8 weeks for the repair, they guessed. After 2,5 weeks the dealer phoned me and told me Cartier would not touch the diamond setting, because they claimed it was not factory, but they were willing to service the watch. Because they found moisture in the (quartz) movement, it needed a full service, and with that they would replace the blue hands, that they claimed to be oxidized, for free. Also they would replace the (gold) lunet screws, because they were not factory as well. Total cost: €750,-. If I choose to have the -according to them - damaged backscrews replaced, it would be an additional €80,- But, to have the work done, I had to agree to them replacing my diamond encrusted sunburst dial with a plain white (with black numbers) one, because 'they do not want these watches to exist', so I was told. Only after special request from the dealer and some consideration they would let me get my diamond dial back, but they would disable it to prevent I would have it replaced in the watch. I then decided to have the watch returned to me unrepaired, together with my Must de Cartier that according to Cartier needed a new crown and therefore a complete service à €470. Because you can buy these watches vintage between €500-€800, I didn't think it was worth it. Once I got my watches back (paid €60 'research costs' for the Must, the dealer was so kind to not charge me for the Panthère because she felt they did not offer me a real solution), I was checking the back of the Panthère for the damaged screws Cartier had mentioned. I did not see what they meant, but once I compared the watch to the pictures I took before sending in the watches, I noticed the screws seemed untouched. Untouched as exactly the same screw with the same tiny screwdriver marks in exactly the same spot in the same position. Then I checked my Must watch and it was the same: the screws appeared untouched. I did some research and every source told me the same story: if the watches were indeed opened up this is impossible. So my watches were both never opened yet Cartier made claims about the watches needing full service and charged me €750 and €470, or €60 research costs per watch. I called the manager at my local dealer and she told me a long long story that high end watchmakers take photo's of the watch and put every screw back in exactly the same position because some customers won't accept a change of one hundreth of a millimeter (she really said that!) and that she was very sure the watches had been opened or she would tell me and that she could ask for the photo's but she wasn't sure they would still have them because of privacy reasons. Uhuh. 'If you can't convince them, confuse them.' (if still in doubt, read this article about screws in watches and why they are never aligned in the first place, and that their position will change every time they are opened because of slight changes in torque from every watchmaker https://www.salonqp.com/updates/watch-culture/roger-smith-dial-screws/) Three days later I took the watches to a watchmaker. He put the Panthère watch under a camera with a microscope so I could see it on a big televisionscreen. There was no oxidation on the hands. He then opened the watch and told me it hadn't been opened for a while, because dead skin cells fell of when he opened it (which is completely normal but not when it has been opened and not worn again). There was no moisture in the movement, but some very light tarnish was visible on the battery only (it might have been empty for years?). He replaced the battery and we waited 20 breathtaking seconds for the 'pulse' that showed the movement was working. It worked, and it worked fine. The watchmaker did some lubrication where needed, and made the bracelet to size for me, all while I was waiting. After about one hour of work and talking he charged me €48 and I left his shop with my lovely watch working. My Must de Cartier watch (and the Tag Heuer I also brought with me) both were ready one week later, and I was charged €28 for a battery-exchange for the Must. It was checked (no further service needed) and tested to be waterproof as well. It runs perfectly. The watchmaker told me this watch also had not been opened for quite some time... Now everyone reading this story can draw their own conclusion of what happened here and decide whether they want to bring their watches to Cartier for 'service' or take them to a real watchmaker (maybe I should add that 'full service' for a quartz movement means Cartier throws out the old movement and replaces it with a new one. Why? Because you don't need very well trained people (aka real watchmakers) to do this, so it's cheaper than actually servicing these watches). If you enjoy being lied to and ripped off excessively and you don't know what to do with all your money, then go ahead and take them to Cartier, you won't be disappointed. If not, opt for a good watchmaker. The worst part for me was realizing I would have done it. Had they charged me €1200-1300 for 'servicing' this watch and repair and check the diamond setting, I would have happily paid for it. Because it is Cartier. Because you don't expect this kind of practice from a reputable company. You just don't think they need it. I took the Panthère to a goldsmith who send it to a first class diamond setter, 2,5 weeks later the work was done and I paid €120. Got that? We fool ourselves justifying these ridiculous prices they charge, we let them get away with it, BECAUSE IT'S CARTIER. They know best, right? Dear Cartier, I LOVE your designs, your watches, your jewellery, please focus on what you do best and make your profit there, instead of ripping people off with made-up 'research' and overexpensive repairs that are just unneccesary. It would make us all feel so much better about your brand. Now wouldn't that help with your sales? (I switched to buying Tiffany & Co). I will share this experience all over the internet, on every watch forum etc. because I DON'T enjoy being lied to, I can think of nicer ways to spend my money, and I guess there are many people like me out there. But most of all, people should know who they are dealing with. Truth needs to be told.
  25. This watch was in perfect condition, with all the functions working, until I left it with a "watch-repairer" to have the battery replaced.... Since then, the Alarm / "Buzzer" has not worked, so I asked a professional watch-repairer to have a look at the watch. I was told that the "Buzzer Control Spring" was missing - probably because the previous repairer had not replaced it (I understand that this is a fairly common problem). The numbers on the back of the case are as follows:- T011 - 312805 Y 1071572 GN-4-S JAPAN > 12 I have contacted Citizen, but they are unable to help. I therefore wondered whether there was anyone out there who could tell me where to obtain the missing part, or to have the watch repaired.
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