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Found 41 results

  1. Hello all, I'm new to the forum. I want to create a mod for a an invicta pro diver inspired by the Omega Seamaster Commander. For this, I'm looking for a white dial with applied indices and a date window that will fit the Seiko NH35a movement. I found similar things, I found this dial, but it has no date window. I also found this dial which looks perfect and this dial which is also good, but they are for a MIYOTA 8215, 821A & 8205 and not Seiko. Could you please help me find what I'm looking for either the first one with a date window, or one of the latter two that fit a Seiko NH35a movement. Images of the dials in the links, in order:
  2. Hi There. I have a 15540-004 which keeps losing it's stem & crown. I have a spare miyota mechanism for it, & some stems & crowns to replace the missing items, but I can't figure out how to replace the mechanism. Normally, once the stem is out, the watch face can just fall out through the back. This one doesn't, so how can I get the hands to fit onto the new mechanism? Do I have to press the face & glass out from the back? Cheers, Woody.
  3. Can you tell me what type of strap this is with the screws, and if you can give me some products similar so I can keep the original buckle , This is a Buler Alpha performance, very difficult to find because it is one of the last watches the company made before it closed. For more info DM I cant find the warranty card or manual etc. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/16GmPTCN-8PkEZpMbD1TAgOKdFCQwaLPR?usp=sharing
  4. Hi All I have recently inherited a Badollet pocket watch and I am wondering what approximate age it is. (For some reason, the forum is not allowing me to upload pictures.) It Has a Badollet movement and the case has LFB stamp on it with the code i038i stamped bust below it. The case is extremely ornately designed with a very intricate face and it has a key for which to wind it up. It looks like it is silver plated. Does anyone by any chance know what approximate age and value this is? Unfortunately, it is missing the minute hand and the glass that is supposed to cover the face. Thank You Matt
  5. Hello, Looking for some advice. I recently found in my father's belongings a dirty dozen Vertex watch (father was in army in early sixties and fought in Borneo, I think this is the watch he used at the time) I remember him wearing it when I was young. It is not working so I took it to a watch repairer who said after having a look inside that it was not repairable due to rust inside... The balance is also broken. Can you recommend a Yorkshire based specialist who will be able to do something with it? I would love to get it up and running again... Sentimental value etc.... My everyday watch is a 1980 CWC fat boy and I would love this as an alternative... I would upload pictures but cannot work out how to do so on my phone... Thanks in advance
  6. I have a Seiko Sports 150 that has not been working as long as I can remember. I have tried to get it repaired at my local watch repairers, with no avail. Does anyone know of a trusted repair shop in Manchester or one that accepts the watch by post. Some images below: http://tinypic.com/r/ip03ee/9 http://tinypic.com/r/5upqon/9 http://tinypic.com/r/21kjhvk/9 http://tinypic.com/r/nlzk04/9
  7. Hello there, i'm a new member - looking for the benefit of experience and advice. I have a Tag Heuer Formula 1 watch, I bought new in 2008 and have used it as my everyday watch ever since, it's had several batteries and reseals over the years, but never been sent off for service etc. The watch has a few issues and I have had a quote of £325 to have it serviced and repaired. I'd like to sell the watch on, but i'm worried that after paying for the repair and servicing I may not make much in the way of a profit (i'm guessing around £80ish). Would it be worth selling a watch that is in need of repair? for parts / spares or as a project? (the crown and pin come out of the watch, and the bezel is missing the small part that makes the clicks) + the expected 10yrs of scratches? Picture below isn't my watch, but is the exact model and pretty much the condition also. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hello everyone, Over the last few weeks I've been stripping and cleaning a Helvetia 132 movement (equivalent ETA 2410 etc.). During the reassembly I managed to break one of the legs on the spring holding the shock protection cap-jewel - escape wheel, movement side. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ec07f6vfxz12zn/DSC01006.JPG?dl=0 It's not the standard jewel that is displayed in Ranfft for the Helvetia 132 / ETA 2410, but the shock-protected jewel shown by Ranfft for the Hamilton 23, here: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?00&ranfft&&2uswk&Hamilton_23 As far as I'm able to find out, it's a KIF Duofix system shock protection (also known as fixmobil?). I've searched long and hard for a source of spares, and the only place I can find who has shock protection springs to order is Jules Borel. Their item 400/551 is listed as Shock Spring, Duofix D210 10-3. There are no pictures or dimensions given. Does any one know, is this definitely the part I'm looking for, or are there different sizes of the Duofix? Also, does Borel sell to the general public, like me? They seem to be trade only, and request a VAT number for registration. Can anyone suggest another source? If I can't find the spring, what would the experts suggest? Should I just sacrifice originality and fit a bridge from a donor movement? I have one with the conventional jewel mounting, but the colour would also be wrong. Also, any tips on how to handle these springs to reduce the chances of breakage (tools, magnification, technique) are very much appreciated! Many thanks for any help and advice. By the way, I had trouble loading pictures from Dropbox at the last attempt, but it did work eventually, so please bear with me. Re the photo. The link takes you to Dropbox, and the picture appears briefly, then disappears. If you click "Oder weiter zur Webseite" at the bottom, it will be displayed indefinitely.
  9. Hi, when replacing the battery in my Luminox without my glasses on I managed to prod the coil resulting in a now dead movement and also noticed the seal has been pinched. Could you recommend someone that could undertake a replacement for me at somewhere less than the cost of a new watch! have tried some places in the Jewellery quarter but they want an arm and leg? Kind Regards Dave.
  10. Hi can anyone help me to identify one of my older Citizens please? Don't know what happened but one of my favourite Citizen watches given to me some time ago by my parents has lost its crown - looking to see if it can be repaired or not and identity the model and movement info. in case replacing the entire movement is required - also would appreciate any feedback on likely costs Thanks Jim
  11. To the Admin; not sure if this would be better in the Watchmaking and Repairs section. If so, feel free to move it. My Dad dug out this old Summit Automatic which belonged to my Grandfather. I know it's not worth anything in financial terms, but I'd like to get it restored as much as possible, for sentimental reasons. The movement (AS 1700) is fine as far as I can tell, but obviously needs a service. The whole watch was filthy, but has cleaned up well. Now to the problems. One of the spring bars was Superglued in place, as the lug is so badly damaged. Looking at it, could it be that someone has attempted a repair (with solder?) in the past? All four are damaged or worn to some extent, but this is the worst (from front and back): I would appeciate the advice of any of you regarding repair. Can it be done? If so, how? Is it a DIY job, or best left to the experts? Also, I've no idea where to get replacement seals or gaskets for the case back and the crown. These aren't the usual o-rings. The one on the back is a flat plastic gasket 30 mm i.d. 31mm o.d. and 0.25mm thick. The one on the crown (the dark orange part) is 2mm i.d. 3mm o.d. and approx. 0.7mm thick, hard plastic or resin. Are these standard parts, and still available somewhere, or can they be substituted by modern seals e.g. o-rings? Any tips, recommendations or encouragement very much appreciated!
  12. After a little help from the U.K. forum members. For my 40th (8yrs ago!!) I was treated to a rather gorgeous IWC Fliegeruhr chrono which has behaved faultlessly until the chrono reset button fell out and was lost recently. I’ve done a bit of digging, without much success and am trying to find an independent UK who could repair the watch, give her a service and generally freshen up the case and stainless strap. Any recommendations gratefully received.
  13. Anyone know how much Citizen charge to replace a movement? A customer handed me an attractive gold wristwatch to change the battery but it appears the movement has failed, Because it has very significant sentimental value I'd like Citizen to carry out the repair but they won't provide an estimate until they receive the watch, and I want to tell the customer how much it's likely to cost first. Thanks!
  14. Hello, my name is Alexander I am a 32 year old pharmacy technician. I am originally from Canada, but currently live in the United States. I am rather new to watch collecting and repair, but have always had an interest in mechanical objects. My small collection consists primarily of pocketwatches from the latter half of the nineteenth century. I do own two or three pocketwatch from the pre-war era and one watch from the late eighteenth century. My repair experience is extremely limited. I am certain that I will be asking many questions and will be happy for any advise I am given.
  15. I recently bought a vintage 18k yellow gold Cartier Panthère watch completely set with diamonds (bracelet, case and dial) at an auction. Some of the diamonds were loose and the watch did not run. A local Cartier dealer (I am in the Netherlands) sent the watch to Cartier for me, together with my Must the Cartier watch that needed a battery replacement (always ran perfectly on time). It would take about 2-3 weeks to get a quote and 8 weeks for the repair, they guessed. After 2,5 weeks the dealer phoned me and told me Cartier would not touch the diamond setting, because they claimed it was not factory, but they were willing to service the watch. Because they found moisture in the (quartz) movement, it needed a full service, and with that they would replace the blue hands, that they claimed to be oxidized, for free. Also they would replace the (gold) lunet screws, because they were not factory as well. Total cost: €750,-. If I choose to have the -according to them - damaged backscrews replaced, it would be an additional €80,- But, to have the work done, I had to agree to them replacing my diamond encrusted sunburst dial with a plain white (with black numbers) one, because 'they do not want these watches to exist', so I was told. Only after special request from the dealer and some consideration they would let me get my diamond dial back, but they would disable it to prevent I would have it replaced in the watch. I then decided to have the watch returned to me unrepaired, together with my Must de Cartier that according to Cartier needed a new crown and therefore a complete service à €470. Because you can buy these watches vintage between €500-€800, I didn't think it was worth it. Once I got my watches back (paid €60 'research costs' for the Must, the dealer was so kind to not charge me for the Panthère because she felt they did not offer me a real solution), I was checking the back of the Panthère for the damaged screws Cartier had mentioned. I did not see what they meant, but once I compared the watch to the pictures I took before sending in the watches, I noticed the screws seemed untouched. Untouched as exactly the same screw with the same tiny screwdriver marks in exactly the same spot in the same position. Then I checked my Must watch and it was the same: the screws appeared untouched. I did some research and every source told me the same story: if the watches were indeed opened up this is impossible. So my watches were both never opened yet Cartier made claims about the watches needing full service and charged me €750 and €470, or €60 research costs per watch. I called the manager at my local dealer and she told me a long long story that high end watchmakers take photo's of the watch and put every screw back in exactly the same position because some customers won't accept a change of one hundreth of a millimeter (she really said that!) and that she was very sure the watches had been opened or she would tell me and that she could ask for the photo's but she wasn't sure they would still have them because of privacy reasons. Uhuh. 'If you can't convince them, confuse them.' (if still in doubt, read this article about screws in watches and why they are never aligned in the first place, and that their position will change every time they are opened because of slight changes in torque from every watchmaker https://www.salonqp.com/updates/watch-culture/roger-smith-dial-screws/) Three days later I took the watches to a watchmaker. He put the Panthère watch under a camera with a microscope so I could see it on a big televisionscreen. There was no oxidation on the hands. He then opened the watch and told me it hadn't been opened for a while, because dead skin cells fell of when he opened it (which is completely normal but not when it has been opened and not worn again). There was no moisture in the movement, but some very light tarnish was visible on the battery only (it might have been empty for years?). He replaced the battery and we waited 20 breathtaking seconds for the 'pulse' that showed the movement was working. It worked, and it worked fine. The watchmaker did some lubrication where needed, and made the bracelet to size for me, all while I was waiting. After about one hour of work and talking he charged me €48 and I left his shop with my lovely watch working. My Must de Cartier watch (and the Tag Heuer I also brought with me) both were ready one week later, and I was charged €28 for a battery-exchange for the Must. It was checked (no further service needed) and tested to be waterproof as well. It runs perfectly. The watchmaker told me this watch also had not been opened for quite some time... Now everyone reading this story can draw their own conclusion of what happened here and decide whether they want to bring their watches to Cartier for 'service' or take them to a real watchmaker (maybe I should add that 'full service' for a quartz movement means Cartier throws out the old movement and replaces it with a new one. Why? Because you don't need very well trained people (aka real watchmakers) to do this, so it's cheaper than actually servicing these watches). If you enjoy being lied to and ripped off excessively and you don't know what to do with all your money, then go ahead and take them to Cartier, you won't be disappointed. If not, opt for a good watchmaker. The worst part for me was realizing I would have done it. Had they charged me €1200-1300 for 'servicing' this watch and repair and check the diamond setting, I would have happily paid for it. Because it is Cartier. Because you don't expect this kind of practice from a reputable company. You just don't think they need it. I took the Panthère to a goldsmith who send it to a first class diamond setter, 2,5 weeks later the work was done and I paid €120. Got that? We fool ourselves justifying these ridiculous prices they charge, we let them get away with it, BECAUSE IT'S CARTIER. They know best, right? Dear Cartier, I LOVE your designs, your watches, your jewellery, please focus on what you do best and make your profit there, instead of ripping people off with made-up 'research' and overexpensive repairs that are just unneccesary. It would make us all feel so much better about your brand. Now wouldn't that help with your sales? (I switched to buying Tiffany & Co). I will share this experience all over the internet, on every watch forum etc. because I DON'T enjoy being lied to, I can think of nicer ways to spend my money, and I guess there are many people like me out there. But most of all, people should know who they are dealing with. Truth needs to be told.
  16. This watch was in perfect condition, with all the functions working, until I left it with a "watch-repairer" to have the battery replaced.... Since then, the Alarm / "Buzzer" has not worked, so I asked a professional watch-repairer to have a look at the watch. I was told that the "Buzzer Control Spring" was missing - probably because the previous repairer had not replaced it (I understand that this is a fairly common problem). The numbers on the back of the case are as follows:- T011 - 312805 Y 1071572 GN-4-S JAPAN > 12 I have contacted Citizen, but they are unable to help. I therefore wondered whether there was anyone out there who could tell me where to obtain the missing part, or to have the watch repaired.
  17. Hobby repairer here with a very strange problem. A few weeks ago, I took apart 2 standard Chinese made quartz watches (same make/model) and now I am trying to put them back together. All the parts have just been sitting on the table, but the white o-rings that go around the crystal are BOTH too big to fit into the groove. When I took the rings out initially, it was actually a challenge as they were quite snug. But now, when I place the ring over the cavity, the OD is about 1 mm larger than they were 3 weeks ago. Can I do anything to shrink them back? Most of my watches are older mechanical pieces with plastic crystals, and I don't have much experience in this, so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  18. Anyone know who is servicing this Omega Calibre. With a genuine guarantee.?
  19. Hello all, first time poster and hoping your experience and wisdom will help me resurrect this 1950s/60s car clock. It’s a 2” in-dash Smiths, CE 2160/02. It looks complete and the movement looks clean. I acquired as a non-tested clock. I think it’s negative earth, but first question is how to correctly connect it to 12v? It has a single yellow wire - is this for live feed or earth? Other than this it has two threadposts at the rear with knurled nuts and washers. I huess these fix it into the dash but are either of the threaded posts at the back for 12v positive also? All pointers appreciated. Many thanks.
  20. Hi, I purchased a second-hand 2012 Breitling Superocean from a London watch dealer back in June last year. I have had no problems with this watch in fact I have been very pleased with my purchase, up until last week when I went to put my watch on in the morning (I never wear it to bed) and noticed that the face of the watch had turned within the case slightly. After a few hours the face had turned nearly 180 degrees in the case. I contacted the dealer I purchased it from and they suggested it had probably been caused by a knock or drop, and will result in the watch being to returned to Breitling for repair. This leaves me slightly confused as I am certain that this is not the case. This watch is very dear to me and I look after it very carefully - I saved for sometime and waited in excess of 6 months to find a model that I liked. Has anybody else had any similar problems as me - and any ideas on a resolution?
  21. Hi Simon My Tag Heuer Aquaracer WAN2110 crown does not screw onto the watch, I've bought a replacement crown and intend to replace it myself, is there anything I need to be aware of before starting this task like buying a new stem or known difficulties removing/replacing the crown and stem. Many Thanks.
  22. Hello all. Newbie here. While I have a fair amount of experience with electronics, I don't with watches. A while back I inherited a Citizen C300 Navihawk that had been unused for years. I decided to try replacing the battery myself; bought a battery and opening tool, no problems. At some point I dropped the watch (about a metre onto hard wood) and the digital section went wonky, and one of the hands came off. I managed to do an all-reset, and put the hand on again. Good job I thought. Until months later I tried to use the alarm, and found it had stopped working. Thanks to forums, I suspected I during one of my back-openings I had let the sounder contact to fall out. I never found it :-( So now I am trying to source the part (903-156). I thought it would be easy, but it seems not. Various watch repair shops I have been to won't try and get the part for me, they want to send the watch away for a "service". Got a quote from Esslinger in the US, but the postage seems a little high for such a small part. Anyone know of a place in the UK I could try? TIA - Nick
  23. Hello guys, So I purchased a Longines conquest classic chrono 8 months ago. Really love the watch. However, a few days ago i thuroughly cleaned my watch and noticed on the caseback sapphire crystal a scratch. It is only seen when looking at it from a certain side and under a lamp or sunlight. It is wierd because it isnt just a straight line scratch but multiply tiny scratchtes in one spot. The front crystal has nothing on it which is wierd because the only time i take my watch off is for the night. I heard that if anti reflective coating is applied on the outside of the crystal (i dont know if longines does this on the case back) then that can get scratched easier then the sapphire itself. But i would like to ask how do i know if the reflective coating scratched or the sapphire itself? I dont think diamonds are resposible as my mother wears them but she rarly take them of and it is strange how they could scratch the inside crystal. Thanks
  24. I just acquired this nifty old Timex quartz. It's working, but it has some problems and I'd love some advice on what to do. First, I had to struggle a bit to remove the old battery. When I inserted a new one, it wouldn't stay in place. It kept popping out. I finally held it in the best I could and quickly screwed on the caseback to hold it into place. Is there a trick to getting the battery to stay in place? Then I noticed the second hand would periodically pause for a 1-3 seconds. Sometimes it even goes backward by a second. I watched it for a while and I'm not able to discern a solid pattern. But it seems to stop and start near the top of the hour more often than at other positions. If I let it go for a while, the watch will eventually stop. What might cause this? I thought I'd take out the movement and see if there's a problem with the way the hands are attached, but I can't figure out how to remove the stem. Anyone know how? If I need to replace the movement, does anyone know what type this is and/or whether I can replace it with a modern movement (or an old one salvaged from another watch)?
  25. So my friends Dad found a Certina Chronlympia circa 1971 8501-503, on the beach in the south of the UK believe it or not. Anyway I've had a tinker with it and managed to fix a loose hour hand and polish the acrylic and the case up. The only problem is that when I push the chrono function to send the second hand back to the 12 position it actually flies back to the 9 instead, and I can't work out how to alter this. I've tried pulling the crown out and pushing the 'A' button to send it forward but all that does is start the second hand up again. if anyone has any ideas that would be great.
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