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Found 35 results

  1. I am relatively new to the watch collection/appreciation world. I now own a Laco Augsburg and 2 x Seiko dive watches. Is it possible to say how often roughly a watch should be serviced to keep it running properly please, I have seen a lot of comments that some owners' watches have not had a service in 7, 8, 9 years. I assume that any competent jewellers can service my Seikos (they will be out warranty after 2 years) ? As for my Laco, does that need anymore specialist attention, or at this price point, is a watch, a watch ? All advice appreciated.
  2. I have a beautiful 1916 Rolex 'Trench Watch' which could really do with a professional service, and I would love to know where I could get it serviced. It has one slight issue that I know of which is the mainspring. It could do with going on a mainspring winder to tighten it up, but I did not see the point of buying one just to fix this watch only. The one on the left is the Rolex needing the service. (Rolex, Elgin, Rolex) Any advice regarding servicing, watch repairers that could do this, or cheap mainspring winders would be really appreciated.
  3. Hi, I have an Omega Seamaster Diver here that I feel needs regulating. It's running about 15 seconds/day slow, and I would much prefer it to end up in a positive state if I can't get it dead-on. I bought it about 2 months ago and it comes with a guarantee from the auctioneers who sold it that's good for two years. I have some reservations about sending the watch back to them however, as they do not appear to be affiliated with Omega in any way, and from what I can tell, Omega service centres and boutiques are currently closed. I understand that regulating a watch is a fairly simple process, and that I'd probably need to look at buying replacement gaskets for the watch. Would you recommend this course of action? Would you send it back to the auctioneer under their guarantee, when chances are it will just be someone doing the same thing I plan to do, and likely not an authorised repair centre? Or would you wait for Omega centres to reopen and have it regulated at one of those? Thanks for any help you can give! I'm based in the UK, and haven't been able to find anything on regulation prices here. I believe that across the pond, they do it for free, but given some of the costs that come with servicing watches, I am a little apprehensive. Sam
  4. Hello all, this is my first post to what looks like a great forum. I am a total newbie to this forum malarky, so bare with me! After having a passing interest in clocks for years I decided to do what I had been saying I was going to do for ages and buy a longcase clock. I duly did this, a present to myself last Christmas. It got me wanting to learn more about clocks in general, not only the historical side of them, but also to be a bit 'hands on'. I had bought a mantel clock with a Smiths Enfield movement sixteen years ago. The clock was always temperamental and it just became an ornament in the front room for years. It was cheap when I bought it so I had a ready 'victim' to dip my toe into clock repair/servicing. It strikes the hours, but does not have the added complication (well complicated for me at my level) of Westminster chiming. I have now took it apart and cleaned it. Being a complete and utter novice to all this I have no experience to call on as to whether the springs needed to be changed or just cleaned and oiled/greased. Could anyone give any advice, looking at the photo, as to whether it may be best to change them while I have the movement apart. Also will the springs be both the same length? The barrels are approx 45mm inside diameter. The going side is on the left, the strike side on the right. I have already looked online at a supplier of clock parts but the different spring sizes were a bit bewildering. They ask for the length, width, the thickness and also state a diameter. Is the diameter that they give, say 50mm , the inside diameter of the barrel that the spring goes in. Also if I do need to measure the length of the springs how do you go about this, seems a bit tricky to me, and possibly injury inducing! Any advice greatly received. Thanks. P.S. I said I was new to this and true to form I've just failed to put the photo on. Can't work out how to do it. If you can visualise the situation, the springs uncoiled are approx 135mm in diameter.
  5. Hi Simon, new member here. I found this forum by Googling “Sicura repairs” so I believe you’ve worked on these watches before? I inherited this Sicura which is in need of some TLC- https://imgur.com/gallery/84BDiZy It runs for about 30 mins then stops. Is this something you think you could fix? Many thanks in advance!
  6. Hi Simon. I'm trying to replace my dad's watch gasket. Tissot wont supply me with one. There is a red hard flat gasket which is thoroughly mangled and will not fit back in, It also seems too long, (The battery was changed by a shoe shine chain a few years ago and my elderly dad didn't realise the back wasn't on properly when he got it back!) I've tried Cousins but they seem wholesale only so I'm hoping to get the measurements to get a third party one. Are you able to help with measurements please? Thanks in advance, Andrew.
  7. Dear Watchforum, I am writing to you concerning a problem I have encountered with one of my watches, and I would like to hear your opinion on the subject. I have requested an "Extract of Archives" from one of the top 5 watch company's for a rare watch from the 90's. I paid over 200USD for the Extract document, I wanted to have it because my watch does not have its original booklet and I was curious of the exact date age of the watch. After receiving this book, I took it home and looked at the reference number and something seemed off. I knew the exact reference number of my watch, and on the paper the last 2 numbers (which refer to the type of dial) were different then what it should be. I got upset, and started thinking that my watch could have been dial swapped in the past to the reference number dial I thought I had, therefore it would have been a fabrication. This could significantly effect the value of the watch in the eyes of the buyers. Doing research online I found that that reference number they wrote on the document didn't even exist. That was what got me to call the factory and question the accuracy of the document. They were even surprised to hear that the document was not accurate, and they asked me to send it back to them and they will replace it. If I would have not noticed it and thought that this document is accurate, then it would have ruined the value of my watch and It would have made it nearly impossible to sell on the market. My question to you is: is it common for watch companies to make mistakes on official signed extracts ? What would you do in my place? How can you trust watch companies with your watch? Thanks,
  8. Good morning everybody, I am thinking about buying a cheap automatic watch with complications (chronograph, lunar phase, or the like) Do you have such a watch serviced? Or do you just buy a new one when the time for a service comes? Do you spend, say, £300 for the service of a watch with some complications you have paid, say, £400 or £500? Or are there cheaper ways to get these watches serviced? Or am I missing something? Thanks to all in advance Cassius Longinus
  9. I have a seiko 6309, and when I advance the time, with the crown to the second click, the day indicator continuously advances as I wind the hands the day and date change off the first click of the crown, and advance at 12.00. Can anyone advise what I'm looking for when I strip it please? What makes the day wheel move in sync with the hands? Thanks for any hints.
  10. Hello, I’n not sure that this is the right place in the forum but as I am new and it said pocket watch I’ve posted here. Having decided I wanted to take up a new hobby I’ve settled on pocket watches, understanding how they work and maybe one day being able to take one apart and fix it. What I am after from you all is some advice covering the following points: - books or YouTube video to study to understand and learn the skills - recommended tool kit sets to dismantle and reassemble a pocket watch (when I am brave enough) - types of movements that are best to practice on (ease and simplicity as well as quantity of spare parts available) - best sources for movements and watches, eBay, forum members, websites etc. - anything else that would be helpful Thanks, Andy
  11. It's a shame when a manufacturer gets cute and puts people off a possibly attractive product. Sentiment here may not favour new quartz with fussy dials, but I liked the Timex Yacht Racer when I saw it a few years ago. I might have been put off as one poster here was by the 'requirement' to send the watch back to get the battery changed. What?! It turns out that this is not actually required. I use the starting timer functions sailing, and all that electro mechanism does actually drain the battery, so a little over two years later I had to change it. Of course the perpetual calendar, the main reason I bought it anyway, goes went to 'day 1', which is 1 January 2014. That's when I found the "instruction" to send it back to Timex. I Googled for days, but found that all similar references were expired/moved/deleted or referred to previous models with somewhat different procedures. Some forum conversation gave me clues, and I had just about figured it out when I goofed and discovered you get just one shot, after which you must get the battery out and back in to start over. Here's the story. The day1 state occurs always and only when you replace the battery. Timex service claims they have "a machine" for "calibration", but I can't see what that is other than allowing the battery to stay put. Maybe also the machine can read the current date without using the watch face. I'm using the watch face, so I went back down to Timpson because I fear pulling these things apart, and the tech took the battery out and put it back, handing it to me before closing it. First pull the stem out to the second click. If after changing the battery, something has made the stopwatch/chrono hand (call it 'chrono') land somewhere other than '0'/12 o'clock (call it '0'), use the start/stop button at 2 o'clock and/or the chrono reset button at 4 o'clock to put the chrono hand dead on '0'. Push the stem back in. You know you're in day1 if you pull the stem out to the second click and, after the chrono hand does a 360, and after another 5 seconds, it does not then go to the '1' on the Perfect Date ring or to your previous current day. If you are in day1, after the 360, the chrono hand will stay on '0'. Push the stem back in and pull it out one click to the middle position. Push and hold the Mode button at the 8 o'clock position. The chrono hand will move around to 14 on the Perfect Date ring for 2014, the year Yacht Racer, and maybe other IQ watches, were issued. Use the chrono reset button at the 4 o'clock position to move the chrono hand further to the current year, say 19 for 2019. If you go too far you can use the start/stop button at the 2 o'clock position to move it back. When the year is correct, push the Mode button, but don't hold it. The chrono hand will move to '1' on the Perfect Date ring for 'January'. Use the chrono reset button and maybe the start/stop button to move the chrono hand to the current 1-12 month. Push the Mode button and the chrono hand will move again to '1', this time for the first day of the month. Use chrono reset and start/stop to put the chrono hand on the current day, OR as I did, the day before, so you can simplify where you are with midnight later when you set the time. When the chrono hand is on the correct day, push the Mode button. The chrono hand will return to '0'. Push the stem back in. The perpetual calendar has been set and I wasn't able to set it again until the battery came out and back in. Before closing the watch, check the operation of Perfect Date by pressing the stem to make sure the chrono hand goes to the day of the month as you set it. Close the watch and set the time, being careful about where you are with midnight. Don't know if this will sell any more Yacht Racers, and I'm pretty sure that engineering this repair myself relieves me of any copyright problems. Hope this helps other owners of IQ Series watches.
  12. The year is 1976. I was a newly minted constable in the Queensland Police Force. My first day on the job, someone asks "Why aren't I wearing a watch?. Every copper has to have a reliable watch." So, at the first opportunity I popped down to the local jeweller's to pick out a watch. The one with red on the ring thing and a couple of buttons on the side looked interesting enough. The price was right and it was a Seiko. I knew precious little about watches but I knew about Seiko watches from my Dad who had purchased a couple during his tour of duty over in Vietnam in 1966 and he swore by them. So the purchase was made. For the next 15 years that watch stayed on my wrist. Four years in a first response unit, three years in outback Queensland, chatting with shearers about whether or not they should retire for the night, meant that the watch and I regularly took a beating. Needless to say that this watch and I shared many adventures together. It was in the early 90s that I became a police diver and required a more suitable watch, so I retired the Seiko and bought a Tag 1500 Pro which I still wear from time to time, to this day. The wife, the Seiko and I became separated and it was for another 15 years that my daughter was able to retrieve the watch on my behalf. That was six weeks ago, the watch still goes after a bit of a shake but is badly in need of some TLC. The pushers are jammed up with gunk and as you can see by the photo, the glass could do with replacing. So off to the doctor's it goes. That's my story about about a 6139-6002. It hasn't been into space but it's done just about everything else. Cheers Hog Seiko 6139-6002, a little worse for wear Seiko 6139-6002-At the Post Office Tag 1500 - Still on the wrist
  13. Just starting out on the journey of horology. I have been interested for a long time in the mechanics of clocks and watches. I am in the process of assembling the basic tools for servicing. The more I get there seems to be more I need/ want. Maybe this is more of a want than need! I have bought a couple of watches and a couple of pocket watches of eBay that require parts. That's where I get unstuck. I have no idea where I can get parts from. ETA parts don't seem to be a problem but I don't have any ETA mechanism's. Any tips would be well received. Dave
  14. Greeting!Here's the backstory - I bought a Tissot Powermatic in Switzerland in 2000. It ran great for five years then just stopped. I took it to the only local Authorized shop that I could find in at the time and they said the gaskets needed replaced and quoted me $233.00. That wasn't in the budget at the time so I put the watch away planning on getting a second opinion. Not long after that, we moved and the watch got misplaced. We moved two more times and I just found it again last summer.I dropped it off at a different shop and they called and said the capacitor is likely bad and it would be $100 to replace, if that is the actual problem - they did not open it up as far as I know. As I understand it the capacitor/battery is only good for about five years and will need to be replaced again.So here's the question, which would the community suggest?1. Pay the $100 and plan on doing that again in five years2. Keep looking to see if I can find someone cheaper or get the tools to do it myself3. Put it on eBay and see what I can get for itI wore it everywhere so the case and bracelet are pretty worn, but the crystal is perfect.What say y'all?
  15. I'm really enjoying the eclectic coverage of topics in the forum I am starting work on a watch made by a local watchmaker here in Vancouver Canada. It uses the ETA 2892A2 movement. I was just wondering how to determine the nature of the crystal in the case. It feels like glass, but based on the overall nature of the watch and its construction I'm not sure. It's not perspex, as it's cool to touch. The scratching on it though is quite substantive and leads me to believe it's not synthetic saphire. Does anyone have any information on how to better determine the nature of the crystal?
  16. Hello everyone, Over the last few weeks I've been stripping and cleaning a Helvetia 132 movement (equivalent ETA 2410 etc.). During the reassembly I managed to break one of the legs on the spring holding the shock protection cap-jewel - escape wheel, movement side. https://www.dropbox.com/s/8ec07f6vfxz12zn/DSC01006.JPG?dl=0 It's not the standard jewel that is displayed in Ranfft for the Helvetia 132 / ETA 2410, but the shock-protected jewel shown by Ranfft for the Hamilton 23, here: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?00&ranfft&&2uswk&Hamilton_23 As far as I'm able to find out, it's a KIF Duofix system shock protection (also known as fixmobil?). I've searched long and hard for a source of spares, and the only place I can find who has shock protection springs to order is Jules Borel. Their item 400/551 is listed as Shock Spring, Duofix D210 10-3. There are no pictures or dimensions given. Does any one know, is this definitely the part I'm looking for, or are there different sizes of the Duofix? Also, does Borel sell to the general public, like me? They seem to be trade only, and request a VAT number for registration. Can anyone suggest another source? If I can't find the spring, what would the experts suggest? Should I just sacrifice originality and fit a bridge from a donor movement? I have one with the conventional jewel mounting, but the colour would also be wrong. Also, any tips on how to handle these springs to reduce the chances of breakage (tools, magnification, technique) are very much appreciated! Many thanks for any help and advice. By the way, I had trouble loading pictures from Dropbox at the last attempt, but it did work eventually, so please bear with me. Re the photo. The link takes you to Dropbox, and the picture appears briefly, then disappears. If you click "Oder weiter zur Webseite" at the bottom, it will be displayed indefinitely.
  17. Hi can anyone help me to identify one of my older Citizens please? Don't know what happened but one of my favourite Citizen watches given to me some time ago by my parents has lost its crown - looking to see if it can be repaired or not and identity the model and movement info. in case replacing the entire movement is required - also would appreciate any feedback on likely costs Thanks Jim
  18. After a little help from the U.K. forum members. For my 40th (8yrs ago!!) I was treated to a rather gorgeous IWC Fliegeruhr chrono which has behaved faultlessly until the chrono reset button fell out and was lost recently. I’ve done a bit of digging, without much success and am trying to find an independent UK who could repair the watch, give her a service and generally freshen up the case and stainless strap. Any recommendations gratefully received.
  19. I recently bought a vintage 18k yellow gold Cartier Panthère watch completely set with diamonds (bracelet, case and dial) at an auction. Some of the diamonds were loose and the watch did not run. A local Cartier dealer (I am in the Netherlands) sent the watch to Cartier for me, together with my Must the Cartier watch that needed a battery replacement (always ran perfectly on time). It would take about 2-3 weeks to get a quote and 8 weeks for the repair, they guessed. After 2,5 weeks the dealer phoned me and told me Cartier would not touch the diamond setting, because they claimed it was not factory, but they were willing to service the watch. Because they found moisture in the (quartz) movement, it needed a full service, and with that they would replace the blue hands, that they claimed to be oxidized, for free. Also they would replace the (gold) lunet screws, because they were not factory as well. Total cost: €750,-. If I choose to have the -according to them - damaged backscrews replaced, it would be an additional €80,- But, to have the work done, I had to agree to them replacing my diamond encrusted sunburst dial with a plain white (with black numbers) one, because 'they do not want these watches to exist', so I was told. Only after special request from the dealer and some consideration they would let me get my diamond dial back, but they would disable it to prevent I would have it replaced in the watch. I then decided to have the watch returned to me unrepaired, together with my Must de Cartier that according to Cartier needed a new crown and therefore a complete service à €470. Because you can buy these watches vintage between €500-€800, I didn't think it was worth it. Once I got my watches back (paid €60 'research costs' for the Must, the dealer was so kind to not charge me for the Panthère because she felt they did not offer me a real solution), I was checking the back of the Panthère for the damaged screws Cartier had mentioned. I did not see what they meant, but once I compared the watch to the pictures I took before sending in the watches, I noticed the screws seemed untouched. Untouched as exactly the same screw with the same tiny screwdriver marks in exactly the same spot in the same position. Then I checked my Must watch and it was the same: the screws appeared untouched. I did some research and every source told me the same story: if the watches were indeed opened up this is impossible. So my watches were both never opened yet Cartier made claims about the watches needing full service and charged me €750 and €470, or €60 research costs per watch. I called the manager at my local dealer and she told me a long long story that high end watchmakers take photo's of the watch and put every screw back in exactly the same position because some customers won't accept a change of one hundreth of a millimeter (she really said that!) and that she was very sure the watches had been opened or she would tell me and that she could ask for the photo's but she wasn't sure they would still have them because of privacy reasons. Uhuh. 'If you can't convince them, confuse them.' (if still in doubt, read this article about screws in watches and why they are never aligned in the first place, and that their position will change every time they are opened because of slight changes in torque from every watchmaker https://www.salonqp.com/updates/watch-culture/roger-smith-dial-screws/) Three days later I took the watches to a watchmaker. He put the Panthère watch under a camera with a microscope so I could see it on a big televisionscreen. There was no oxidation on the hands. He then opened the watch and told me it hadn't been opened for a while, because dead skin cells fell of when he opened it (which is completely normal but not when it has been opened and not worn again). There was no moisture in the movement, but some very light tarnish was visible on the battery only (it might have been empty for years?). He replaced the battery and we waited 20 breathtaking seconds for the 'pulse' that showed the movement was working. It worked, and it worked fine. The watchmaker did some lubrication where needed, and made the bracelet to size for me, all while I was waiting. After about one hour of work and talking he charged me €48 and I left his shop with my lovely watch working. My Must de Cartier watch (and the Tag Heuer I also brought with me) both were ready one week later, and I was charged €28 for a battery-exchange for the Must. It was checked (no further service needed) and tested to be waterproof as well. It runs perfectly. The watchmaker told me this watch also had not been opened for quite some time... Now everyone reading this story can draw their own conclusion of what happened here and decide whether they want to bring their watches to Cartier for 'service' or take them to a real watchmaker (maybe I should add that 'full service' for a quartz movement means Cartier throws out the old movement and replaces it with a new one. Why? Because you don't need very well trained people (aka real watchmakers) to do this, so it's cheaper than actually servicing these watches). If you enjoy being lied to and ripped off excessively and you don't know what to do with all your money, then go ahead and take them to Cartier, you won't be disappointed. If not, opt for a good watchmaker. The worst part for me was realizing I would have done it. Had they charged me €1200-1300 for 'servicing' this watch and repair and check the diamond setting, I would have happily paid for it. Because it is Cartier. Because you don't expect this kind of practice from a reputable company. You just don't think they need it. I took the Panthère to a goldsmith who send it to a first class diamond setter, 2,5 weeks later the work was done and I paid €120. Got that? We fool ourselves justifying these ridiculous prices they charge, we let them get away with it, BECAUSE IT'S CARTIER. They know best, right? Dear Cartier, I LOVE your designs, your watches, your jewellery, please focus on what you do best and make your profit there, instead of ripping people off with made-up 'research' and overexpensive repairs that are just unneccesary. It would make us all feel so much better about your brand. Now wouldn't that help with your sales? (I switched to buying Tiffany & Co). I will share this experience all over the internet, on every watch forum etc. because I DON'T enjoy being lied to, I can think of nicer ways to spend my money, and I guess there are many people like me out there. But most of all, people should know who they are dealing with. Truth needs to be told.
  20. Hi, My mother was digging in our garden and we found an old services watch (Pictures attached) that must've been buried for years. After looking across these forums I've found from the logo that it's a daventry model from the 1930s - 1950s(?) but can't find out anything else about it. If anyone could let me know a little more about its history I would be really grateful. Thankyou :D
  21. Hi Im still fairly new to the watch appreciation scene but throughly enjoying it so far. I would like to add an English watch to my collection and as local as possible. After doing a bit of reading (mainly on here) I discovered that Services watches were once in Leicester. Since then I have also discovered that my aunt used to work there. This ticks many of the boxes so I thought that I would try and find a good one without breaking the bank (sometimes like finding the holy grail so I’m learning). After looking on the usual sites I have seen a couple on eBay, a Competitor listed as being from the 50s and an Antimagnetic which does look.ike it is in good condition. The Competitor looks like it has some nice patina on the face but does not look to be sitting straight in the case, I’m assuming that this is not a design feature so I am a bit put off by it. We are taking my aunt for afternoon tea next month for her 80th birthday so I’d really like to be wearing one for the inevitable trip down memory lane but I also don’t want to get ripped off. If anyone could give me any help of steer me in the right direction I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
  22. I have a Valjoux 7765 movement that i recently cleaned, however when putting the watch back together, i found that the only function that doesn't work is the date change. The quick-set date function works, however when in time setting and the time has been changed +24 hours, the date wheel does not react to this. Logic would guess that this has something to do with the cam and wheel it sits on, but i just cant seem to pinpoint the exact problem as photos i have seen online of the calendar set up seem identical to mine. Any help would be much appreciated, thank you!
  23. I've recently been handed a watch which contains a Valjoux 7760 movement. However the keyless work is very dirty/rusty. The stem does not want to come out to matter how much force is applied to the setting lever. Does anybody have any tips on how i could solve this problem? Thank you in advanced! Christian
  24. In June 2017 I bought a Seiko Alpinist from Japan. It started off 15secs/day slow and deteriorated to over 30s/day. I sent it to the UK Seiko Service centre before Christmas and they insisted I pay £170 to have it serviced as the warranty was Japan only. On return it was fine for 2 days then started loosing time and after two weeks was 26sec/day out. I returned it to Seiko servicing and their supervisor claims there's nothing wrong. Have I've now spent £500 on a worthless watch?
  25. Hi, New to the world of clocks and asking for a bit of info. The limited history I know of it is it was previously my grandmothers but she did get it second hand when in Australia. Would anyone know anything further about the clock? At the bottom of the face it what looks to say Made in USA although the letters are worn after Made i.... so I may be wrong in that. Also does anyone have any recommendations on a place in London to get the clock serviced? While the clock does run, it doesn't last more then 1 day or so since its trip over from the land of Oz and the last service was sometime between 1995-98 so probably due for anther by now. Thanks
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