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Angus

Seiko 6139-6002 Pogue Franken or Real?!

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Hi there,

Wondering if anyone out there could point me in the right direction. I have been looking for a Seiko 6139-6002 for a while and not really pulled the trigger due to the worry about buying one that had been made up of OEM parts, seems to be the case with quite a few out there. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than myself (this wont be hard!) would be prepared to cast an eye over the below picture and give me their thoughts?

 

Many thanks in advance for any advice.

SEIKO-POGUE-6139-6002-RESIST

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It does look very clean, but that springbar article is excellent and nothing from the dial photo looks too off.  Resist dial, straight ends bracelet, non notched case so I would guess 1972ish.  Bezel may be slightly off centre, but that is an easy fix.

 

Buy the seller first - do they sell a lot of watches, or high end things?  

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Hi there

Yes it is rather pristine which was the first alarm bell, I guess I should be thinking of the saying  'if its too good to be true then......'

I didn't think of the case back, If it has the model number on the back I hope that means its original other wise I really wont know what to look for!

 

 

9 minutes ago, scottswatches said:

It does look very clean, but that springbar article is excellent and nothing from the dial photo looks too off.  Resist dial, straight ends bracelet, non notched case so I would guess 1972ish.  Bezel may be slightly off centre, but that is an easy fix.

 

Buy the seller first - do they sell a lot of watches, or high end things?  

Hi there, thanks for the reply.

I'm led to believe that it is a 1971 model. The person doesn't really sell watches by the look of things and have had it for a year previously bought from a 2nd hand jewellers.  I will have another look over the Springbar article and see what further I can glean. 

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If it is a 1971 model ( quite feasable as the 'resist' wording on the dial was used from 1970-1972), the serial number should start with 1. The second number/letter will give the month. (1-9=Jan-Sept, O=Oct, N=Nov and D=Dec)

There is more on dating Seikos in the pinned topic at the top of this section.

Check that the quickset day and date are both working properly...pushing the crown right in sets the day and halfway in sets the date. The crown should have a dimple at its centre and be flush with the case when in the normal position. If it's flat or rounded, it's aftermarket. It should also rotate the inner indicator ring. Also check that the chrono works and resets properly.

large.5abf6ad3418b9_20180331_1201061.jpg.ac9f2433abdf7bdba6359973dcc28c92.jpg

Edit: Having now seen the listing and looked at the pics, it does 'appear' to be correct. The serial number is right, as is the crown. The one thing that surprises me is the condition of the lume. Zooming in on the pic in the listing, it looks pristine on this one whereas they usually tend to show some darkening or blackening of the plots on the originals. It may be that this is correct...the description says the watch has been stored, but it could also have been re-lumed, so bear that in mind.

 

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15 hours ago, Roger the Dodger said:

If it is a 1971 model ( quite feasable as the 'resist' wording on the dial was used from 1970-1972), the serial number should start with 1. The second number/letter will give the month. (1-9=Jan-Sept, O=Oct, N=Nov and D=Dec)

There is more on dating Seikos in the pinned topic at the top of this section.

Check that the quickset day and date are both working properly...pushing the crown right in sets the day and halfway in sets the date. The crown should have a dimple at its centre and be flush with the case when in the normal position. If it's flat or rounded, it's aftermarket. It should also rotate the inner indicator ring. Also check that the chrono works and resets properly.

large.5abf6ad3418b9_20180331_1201061.jpg.ac9f2433abdf7bdba6359973dcc28c92.jpg

Edit: Having now seen the listing and looked at the pics, it does 'appear' to be correct. The serial number is right, as is the crown. The one thing that surprises me is the condition of the lume. Zooming in on the pic in the listing, it looks pristine on this one whereas they usually tend to show some darkening or blackening of the plots on the originals. It may be that this is correct...the description says the watch has been stored, but it could also have been re-lumed, so bear that in mind.

 

Morning

Thanks for taking a look for me, appreciated. Yes it does appear to be correct just that it was so clean as you point out that I had my reservations.

I have put an offer in and will see what happens, if I get my fingers burned I went in with my eyes wide open and will just enjoy the watch on my wrist!

if I win I can put some close up pics on here.

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56 minutes ago, Roger the Dodger said:

If you are successful, mine will be saying Hi...:thumbsup:

Seiko 6139-6002 'Pepsi/Pogue'

Ooo that's a nice example.

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Love these watches, they both probably have after market dials and maybe other bits but they work as they should and they weren't to expensive.

I find them the perfect size and fit, not to heavy and I think they look stunning.

A bit like triggers broom he had for 17 years, it only had 7 new heads and 5 new handles. ( only fools and horses ).

20190414-153736.jpg

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So I took the plunge and hopefully it has played out well. I'm personally pleased with the watch which is arguably the most important factor!  Side Question to any with this or vintage chronograph, do you keep the chronograph running all the time or just leave it be?

Side note happy to put some picture up but they don't want to paste in for some reason, (obviously me!)

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2 hours ago, Angus said:

So I took the plunge and hopefully it has played out well. I'm personally pleased with the watch which is arguably the most important factor!  Side Question to any with this or vintage chronograph, do you keep the chronograph running all the time or just leave it be?

 

 

Side note happy to put some picture up but they don't want to paste in for some reason, (obviously me!)

Having seen a video on these watches a few years ago, (I've looked for it, but can't find it now) due to the type of chrono 'clutch' used in these, it's better to leave them running, as leaving them set to 12 is like riding the clutch in your car...it can wear them out and they are virtually irreplacable now. Another point made was that on these older chronos, if you do use it to time anything, don't reset the hand if it's gone further than about 3. If it has, restart the chrono and let it run to the 12 point. This is because the hand tube can be fragile, and flipping it back from a long way past 12 may cause the hand to loosen on the shaft as it comes to an abrupt stop. Again, these are very difficult to source if the hand tube splits. I always have the chrono running on mine when I'm wearing it. If I can find the video, I'll post it.

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Your watch looks great Angus.

Roger the Dodger, that's interesting to read what you said about keeping the chrono running .

I had mine serviced by Seiko Canada once & I remember them saying not to keep it running.

(Of course this was the same crowd that returned my watch after their service with the bracelet short a couple links & with a huge aftermarket crown that looks like it belongs on a dive watch.  There was nothing wrong with my original crown by the way!)

Since then I generally leave all of my chronos stopped at 12, though I do like to to see the sweeps actually sweeping...:watch:

I suppose now I'll have to reconsider.  I'll ask the retired watchmaker I bought my Seamaster off whether he thinks I should or shouldn't leave the chron running...

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On 24/05/2019 at 15:29, Angus said:

So I took the plunge and hopefully it has played out well. I'm personally pleased with the watch which is arguably the most important factor!  Side Question to any with this or vintage chronograph, do you keep the chronograph running all the time or just leave it be?

@Angus & @RoddyJB....Managed to find the video! This is by 6139 specialist, Spencer Klein, who has lots of youtube videos showing repairs to these watches.

 

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Thanks for posting the video Roger.

Interesting indeed.  What he said makes sense, despite what Seiko Cda told me. I think I'll run the chronos on mine when I use them.

Now to work out which category my new (1968) Omega chrono is...

Cheers

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Thanks for the video Roger that clears up how I should be running the watch from this point on!

I presume when I'm changing to another watch and letting the Pogue stop I can just leave it all and not need to reset the Chrono when I 'start it up' again on the wrist? I'm probably thinking too much into this now.  Finally got some more up close photos to upload.

8006AC5C-AB4F-47A4-B4D8-CA9E04A3997B.jpe

 

07A0DBDC-9105-4875-BA76-7EE0562E61EA.jpe

 EB613CCB-7858-423A-8F18-D08BD7B53EB6.jpe

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Lovely watch, Angus...nice to have one of the earlier ones! :thumbsup: Yep...I don't touch my chrono at all...I just let the watch run down, then start it again as normal with a gentle shake when I want to wear it again.

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