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This is my project t42. Over all condition is very good. Movement nice and free on setting but pushers very tight. Crown fine alarm setting fine date set fine. Ill whip the back off. But overall a fun project for 20 quid. If necessary does anyone know where i can send it for repair or new movement? Its worth saving as its a looker in very good nick. With the rare t42 count down timer. Thanks Nigel. Ill get some movement shot. Bracelet is full length. Even the bezel action is good with a nice tight click.dcde402d2c806fa66211f92689c7ec42.jpg5c2b518994f571391607889d07e0f864.jpg555a1006057f6d92247268cdb1081153.jpga7926605e4e60cddda8e0b77ef9d0606.jpga9628338e3d4ef5cba164525029334f4.jpg

 

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Maybe a ray of hope @Nigelp but don't get too excited... Last week I bought a load of watches from ebay for £27. All knackered and it was a dreadful photo, but there was a bi-metal solar which I

This is my project t42. Over all condition is very good. Movement nice and free on setting but pushers very tight. Crown fine alarm setting fine date set fine. Ill whip the back off. But overall a fun

Don't know if this will help, it scares me to death. If you read through all of it, he takes a 7T42 apart and rebuilds it, with photos and video. https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/5045-seiko-

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Great looking watch Nigel. I think you'll struggle to get it repaired by anyone other than a specialist, like most early "7t" models these use a load of plastic components that essentially make the movement disposable - they weren't really designed to last forever.

That said, it's often as simple as tightening the screw's up and ensuring you short the movement after a new battery has been fitted.

Fingers crossed it's as easy as that  because you've got a good one there.  

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Great looking watch Nigel. I think you'll struggle to get it repaired by anyone other than a specialist, like most early "7t" models these use a load of plastic components that essentially make the movement disposable - they weren't really designed to last forever.
That said, it's often as simple as tightening the screw's up and ensuring you short the movement after a new battery has been fitted.
Fingers crossed it's as easy as that  because you've got a good one there.  
Thanks kev, that all sounds promising. I'll update as soon as i get further. Cheers nigel pushers have freed up just by pressing them. eadc9d55a1f7c4082d0c627e7990e615.jpg

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Movement shot. No battery in it looks clean7fc22294ba218471f85291c2eb2d015e.jpg

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Back off battery in. No joy. This could be part of the reason? The alarm setting stem. When fully extended comes out. So at the moment unsure how to proceed. Any info much appreciated. Cheers. Nigel7af7f5e01a179c3e558f6e413e14db46.jpg

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In the meantime while i get it sorted. It has donated a link to my t34 which came with just enough links to fit my 6 inch wrist with the micro fully out. And even then it was a tad tight. 72d35046d595e9a64e12b1c700b13f37.jpg

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T42 bracelet is full length. Or at least a lt to big for me. So ive got spare links now. More info to come if and when i get it running. 6b7db8d36e6ef748fd91a488cf4cc634.jpg

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All sized bracelet wise, adjusted the end links as they were stretched, so they fit the case and it wears lovely just got to see if anyone can get it working and how much.4b8c47365479055b31c76fc5393de0cc.jpg

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1 hour ago, kevkojak said:

That said, it's often as simple as tightening the screw's up and ensuring you short the movement after a new battery has been fitted.

Silly question but as KevKojak mentioned did you short the movement after fitting the new battery ? 

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2 hours ago, kevkojak said:

and ensuring you short the movement after a new battery has been fitted

how do i do this kev? Cheers Nigel

7 minutes ago, jsud2002 said:

Silly question but as KevKojak mentioned did you short the movement after fitting the new battery ? 

no mate how do i do it?

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On the movement there is a marking AC with an arrow , where the arrow points use tweezers and place one tweezer on the mark and the other side of the tweezer onto the battery . 

I THINK this is the correct method but would prefer if another member could confirm this before you do it . @kevkojak is the method correct ? 

417611191_deleteme(3)_LI.thumb.jpg.d22f9400f8d9229a3908326a3b4646bc.jpg

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5 minutes ago, jsud2002 said:

On the movement there is a marking AC with an arrow , where the arrow points use tweezers and place one tweezer on the mark and the other side of the tweezer onto the battery . 

I THINK this is the correct method but would prefer if another member could confirm this before you do it . @kevkojak is the method correct ? 

417611191_deleteme(3)_LI.thumb.jpg.d22f9400f8d9229a3908326a3b4646bc.jpg

thanks yes ive found the markings

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btw can someone confirm the battery type this suggests a 399 but my other seiko t32 wont run on a 399 only a 395, thanks. 

this suggests 399??

http://retroseiko.co.uk/seiko-serial.htm?i=1

 

Just now, jsud2002 said:

Please wait though Nigel , wait until someone confirms what I said is correct , I would hate for you to do more damage to your watch . 

will do thanks

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Spot on, it's a simple job (use metal tweezers obviously, I had a lad trying to do it with plastic ones once!)  :laugh:

Battery wise I will only use 399 now (SR927W). Some modern manuals say 395 is the same but I've found that some watches WILL work with the correct 399 but WON'T work with the 395 (SR927SW).

As far as the sub-dial crown @Nigelp I suspect someone has damaged the release mechanism by pressing it too hard and either bending it, breaking it or getting it stuck.   I also await a solution to that one (don't ask)   :rolleyes:

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Thanks lads I'll have another go with the tweezers if that doesnt work i'll have to do a bit of saving up and try and find someone to sort it, it seems a shame to let it die, it really is nice and seeing as i got it so cheap i can justify putting a bit back into it, i'll just have to see how much is works out at. In any case it looks good with the rest of the t's in the watch box and even if not right away im hopeful in getting it sorted at some point. Thank again for the help. 

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Don't know if this will help, it scares me to death. If you read through all of it, he takes a 7T42 apart and rebuilds it, with photos and video.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/5045-seiko-7t42-service-walkthrough/

I had a stuck release button on a Seiko 7546. I could see where the button was between the movement and the dial and eventually managed to get a 2 prong hand puller in the gap and nudge it back into place. Possibly a spring pin tool would do as well. I think I destroyed the rest of the watch to get to that point, but the stem will latch. :whistle:

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16 minutes ago, spinynorman said:

Don't know if this will help, it scares me to death. If you read through all of it, he takes a 7T42 apart and rebuilds it, with photos and video.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/5045-seiko-7t42-service-walkthrough/

I had a stuck release button on a Seiko 7546. I could see where the button was between the movement and the dial and eventually managed to get a 2 prong hand puller in the gap and nudge it back into place. Possibly a spring pin tool would do as well. I think I destroyed the rest of the watch to get to that point, but the stem will latch. :whistle:

     thanks for the refural.   how did you find it ?  vin

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22 minutes ago, spinynorman said:

Don't know if this will help, it scares me to death. If you read through all of it, he takes a 7T42 apart and rebuilds it, with photos and video.

https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/5045-seiko-7t42-service-walkthrough/

I had a stuck release button on a Seiko 7546. I could see where the button was between the movement and the dial and eventually managed to get a 2 prong hand puller in the gap and nudge it back into place. Possibly a spring pin tool would do as well. I think I destroyed the rest of the watch to get to that point, but the stem will latch. :whistle:

thanks does look very time consuming, shame there are no movements available, I assume there aren't. I wonder if as a cheap fix it would be possible to install a quartz to drive the main hour, minute and seconds hand so it at least told the time? I expect stripping and rebuidling would be costly or i dont think anyone would want to go to the trouble.

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55 minutes ago, Nigelp said:

thanks does look very time consuming, shame there are no movements available, I assume there aren't. I wonder if as a cheap fix it would be possible to install a quartz to drive the main hour, minute and seconds hand so it at least told the time? I expect stripping and rebuidling would be costly or i dont think anyone would want to go to the trouble.

There are some job lots of 7T32/34/42 movements for sale on Ebay. Not working, of course, and starting bids of £49.99 for five. Seems a lot to pay on the off-chance there might be a working part you need. Assuming you can identify what it is that's not working. Item # 264339547079 if you're interested. Alternatively, working T32 coils for £20. # 233186492911

 

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I decided to follow the thread above and just take the backing plates off. To check for battery leakage or any signs of it getting moisture in. As can be seen from the attached photo. There looks to be quiet a lot of green corrosion on the copper plates. Ive put it back. But i suspect the movement has been wet at sometime? I dont think its repairable. So the only option is another movement. Nevertheless it was worth having for the bracelet alone. It probably explains why the pushers were sticking9c54f79f87391d91882b7b8af404e082.jpg

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17 hours ago, Nigelp said:

ignore me i was wrong its all dead :(

Bad luck. I saw a guy from Spain on eBay selling refurbished t32 and derivatives for £300 -400. He sold at least one recently. Makes me think doing them up might be viable.

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