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Maxi Mayer

Share my watch making experience

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2019 has passed more than a half, and I have been engaged in watchmaking for three years. Here i would like to share my experience with some of the parts I think are good.

At present, my own understanding of watchmaking: To judge a watch is good or not good, you have to see the overall, can not only check a certain section of the good aspect, but some detail part cause the bad. So to done all the accessories well and overall match reasonable makes a relatively perfect watch. (brand history, movement grinding is not yet considered)

The watch i made at this stage: sports model, diving model (formal, casual style not done for the current time, my personal point of view, more simple it is more difficult to make it perfect good )

Understanding for good or not good to some accessories: (mainly talk about the production i actually have seen and experienced )

Watch case

The key element to see the case is the polishing, A summary of the high requirements of factory production is  - can't scratch the hands, which means the same time to ensure the polishing lines are clear and also can't scratch the hands. (the current machining equipment are very sophisticated, and can have a very well controlled tolerance (generally 3-5c), details should be handled perfectly, such as precise cutting for the inner case, well grinding for the burr, better treatment for the cutting line for the inner lugs.

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Watch dial

There has two sides to see the dial is good or not, one is the basic plate treatment ( normally there has floss matt, matt, half shiny, half matt, sunray, enamel, ect.) the overall must have no dirtiness, dots, scratch. another side is the printing treatment, there has printing and indexes (don't talk about the UP stickers) the printing has to be solid, full and well shaped.( to print luminous there have ink under) can't be too big, and must be aligned.

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For indexes, there must has no dots, the solid indexes has to be flat and with right shape and angles, polished indexes has to have a good finishing and good shape. logo and the seconds tracking printing line has to be aligned with the indexes, and the printing can't be break, can see the solid effect even after magnify.

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Hands

Three elements for hands, one is the aesthetic treatment, second is the hands tube, third is the luminous fulfilling. 

Aesthetic treatment normally have diamond cut, water polished, brushed (diamond cut like the Blancpain FIFTY fathoms hands, water polished like the R dial Rolex hands), then plating, painting or blue baking process. the color has to be even for plating, no dots after magnify, painting shouldn't have oil pile-up.

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Hands tube dimension has to be precise, hour and minute hands tube can use hexagon tube, second hands use cross tube.

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The luminous full-fill has to be smooth, the overall has to be flat and no dent.( otherwise there will have a black shadow when lights up), to ensure the brightness, better to fullfill at least three times, and make sure the luminous oil will not spill over, (as you print more times, the luminous oil will more easy to spill out, so it's a technical skill to ensure this)

Straps

Leather strap, metal bracelet, rubber strap are often used for many watches, the key element of the leather strap is the leather itself, then will be the detail workmanship, the size for lug holes and the buckle holes, two sides has to be flat, edge banding must be smooth.

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The strap loops has to pressed well and no space in between.

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The thickness of the stitching line should match well, and the stitching line has to be straight.

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Solid links bracelet is better than iron sheet, separate links is better than single link, rubber is better than silicone, silicone can make a lot of colors, and have a soft touching, but it's easy to get dust.

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Rubber is more strong, and now the fluorine rubber can make a lot of colors, the flexibility and softness also better, the material and the mould making is the key point for plastic strap, especially the mould line.

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Buckle

Tongue buckle, folding buckle, solid buckle is better, the polishing just same as the watch case, high quality requested the same. keep the shape but not scratch the hands.

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Then here i would like to share two original watch i made this year " Octopus " and " The Smile of Death"

The design of the octopus has a prominent personality and is jumping out of the classic design of the big brand. Showing a complete self-design style. the case of the watch case is made of a five-grade titanium metal material (the domestic reference number TC4 and the U. S. mark GR5), the same time to keep the hardness and reduced the weight to be wearing comfortable, the multi-plane and the multi-line display processing technology, The timing ring, the watch lug, and the case back are use the uniformly different screws to fix. The hands use a multi-surface cutting process (the Seiko GS hands process), the hour hand 5 surfaces process, the minute hands 7 surface process, the second hand has top cap. The dial plate adopts the pearl shell to make the black gradual change effect, and the magic color style in the past is different from the angle of view. The black shark skin of the watchband is matched with the gray nylon cloth to matched with the case.

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The smile of death

The design mainly show the material, is damascus steel ( different pattern), dial also use the same material, CNC precise cutting out the skull shape and fullfill luminous.knife shape hands.

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Your comments is welcome.

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I have a list like this for when I am buying shirts.  The weight of the material, how many buttons, does it have a breast pocket etc.  Well done.

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Did I miss the part with the movement? Surely an important part of the watch? The only picture I see is a 2824 you haven't signed?

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On 15/09/2019 at 17:12, Thomasr said:

Did I miss the part with the movement? Surely an important part of the watch? The only picture I see is a 2824 you haven't signed?

NO, i didn't put any for the movement, as it's a huge information for it.

And i just found the pictures are all gone.... those pictures are really nice shot.

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