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Making my first watch thread.


Daveyboyz
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3 hours ago, Monaque said:

The problem with doing something new is that no matter how much knowledge you have you still can't always see what problems may lie ahead. Sometimes adjusting the design is a necessary evil.

I can see what problems are coming, thats why I will change it.

The only way to harden gold is to work harden, and heating makes it go soft again.  Putting these catches where I wished to detach the lugs I am limited by space between the movement and the edge of the case, if the catches don't spring nicely I could lose the watch.    I am pretty sure I could do it but then I thought about the other issue, lack of adjustability.

 

3 hours ago, Bricey said:

Saw this and thought of your project.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Seiko-Diashock-21-Jewels-6660-6000-Square-28mm-Spares-Repairs-Rare-/334193008005?

Screenshot_20211024-173451_eBay.thumb.jpg.d00bec43abbff5dc4d2a7c86c68f7fc7.jpg

Screenshot_20211024-173507_eBay.thumb.jpg.560494b69e296e4784abce4893cc2f6b.jpg

Screenshot_20211024-173522_eBay.thumb.jpg.922f7fd5e598326dced7dae022ca0c80.jpg

For £25 might be useful as a cheap study guide / template?

 

Well it does share some similarities i  that it is a round face in a square body but mine will have an entirely different strap arrangement.  (Making mine appear rectangular) 

I tend to go back to first principles than somebody else's solution.    I know what I have to do... I just need more fire power at the moment. 

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57 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

I can see what problems are coming, thats why I will change it.

The only way to harden gold is to work harden, and heating makes it go soft again.  Putting these catches where I wished to detach the lugs I am limited by space between the movement and the edge of the case, if the catches don't spring nicely I could lose the watch.    I am pretty sure I could do it but then I thought about the other issue, lack of adjustability.

 

Well it does share some similarities i  that it is a round face in a square body but mine will have an entirely different strap arrangement.  (Making mine appear rectangular) 

I tend to go back to first principles than somebody else's solution.    I know what I have to do... I just need more fire power at the moment. 

My point was you didn't see that particular problem at the beginning, when you were first creating your design, only later when you were building it. We don't always see those problems until they happen during the build, that's when you change things to fix the problem. That was my point.

Anyway, seems like you are sorting it.

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I'm sure you don't need my advice, but as you are using precious metal and are good at soldering, I thought I would mention my experience. Until I was thirty I mainly wore a 1920s Longines with soldered wire lugs. They looked great, but with daily use, having to go to Garrards to have a (surprisingly affordable) new strap sewn on became a regular part of my time at Guys.

My point is, that a dress style watch which is worn relatively little could have elegant and secure fixed lugs if you like :)

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Good news and bad news.

The good news is that I sourced and bought oxygen and propane cylinders... I now have what I need.

The bad news is my metal is returned unmarked.

In the old days it was possible to get flat metals hallmarked under the pretense of "it will be cut into a pendant" but these days are no more.   They only want finished articles.

What this means for a watch in mixed metals I am not sure but it certainly seems to mean I cannot get away with using silver solder on my case and so I have ordered 18ct solder.    Given a pallette costs £100 and I would need multiple hardnesses this works out expensive.   So I simply bought 18ct wire solder in easy and will attempt all joins with the one grade... this will test my skill given how out of practice I am with all this.

Given the sleeve of the watch won't be physically joined to the section with the movement its possible it can be marked after assembly. 

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51 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

Good news and bad news.

The good news is that I sourced and bought oxygen and propane cylinders... I now have what I need.

The bad news is my metal is returned unmarked.

In the old days it was possible to get flat metals hallmarked under the pretense of "it will be cut into a pendant" but these days are no more.   They only want finished articles.

What this means for a watch in mixed metals I am not sure but it certainly seems to mean I cannot get away with using silver solder on my case and so I have ordered 18ct solder.    Given a pallette costs £100 and I would need multiple hardnesses this works out expensive.   So I simply bought 18ct wire solder in easy and will attempt all joins with the one grade... this will test my skill given how out of practice I am with all this.

Given the sleeve of the watch won't be physically joined to the section with the movement its possible it can be marked after assembly. 

If it has mixed metals won't that mean it would be simply referred to as yellow metal? 

I guess this watch will never be sold anyway (perhaps passed down through the family-no clue) and it will always be referred to as "yours". If it was mine, it wouldn't really matter to me if it got hallmarked. I would know exactly what it was made with and how. The watch would be enough.

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16 minutes ago, SolaVeritate said:

If it has mixed metals won't that mean it would be simply referred to as yellow metal? 

I guess this watch will never be sold anyway (perhaps passed down through the family-no clue) and it will always be referred to as "yours". If it was mine, it wouldn't really matter to me if it got hallmarked. I would know exactly what it was made with and how. The watch would be enough.

I tend to agree but I like hallmarks as they date a piece and mark its origins.   This is good for multiple reasons (stops any idea of customs charging me import duty on return from abroad for instance)

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25 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

I tend to agree but I like hallmarks as they date a piece and mark its origins.   This is good for multiple reasons (stops any idea of customs charging me import duty on return from abroad for instance)

You could date it yourself but I suppose thats not quite the same.

"Prototype 1 ??-??-??" That's something I would do.

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I still can't see how this is going to turn out or what you were doing with the stem and crown button but interesting nonetheless. Your approach to the project is  what I would call organic and it develops as it progresses. I suppose that illustrates the difference between an artist and an engineer. That is not a criticism it just demonstrates a different approach. Best wishes Chas

 

Edited by chas g
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On 28/10/2021 at 14:31, Daveyboyz said:

 

 

Hmmm, dial thickness, I totally know what you are going through there, have had problems in the past where my dial has been too thick. With my current movement of choice I have to make my dial only 0.4 thick, to make sure the hands will fit and are able to turn freely. It isn't much to play with, and the hour and minute hands are very close together. There isn't much margin for error. Anyone using an already made movement has to follow the same rules, unless they decide to change the length of the stems or turn up some extenders to push the hand heights up and give themselves some extra room. I would like to do the latter but don't have a small enough lathe to do it.

Anyway, coming along nicely. Enjoying your videos.

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Nice to see it all starting to come together - well done. Pity you can't fit spring side runners to maintain the sliding friction between the quartz mechanism plate and the case sides. This episode highlights the difficulties of working with gold rather than steel.

Looking forward to the next video :thumbsup:

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Amazed by the amount of work this all takes but seems to be progressing well. I assume you will bend and shape the end of the buckle tang to take the spring pins rather than drill a hole.

Not a criticism and I hate to say it but I had difficulty hearing what you were saying on this video which was not a problem on any of the others.

I am looking forward to watching you make the buckle and attach the initials plate. :thumbsup:

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1 hour ago, chas g said:

I assume you will bend and shape the end of the buckle tang to take the spring pins rather than drill a hole.

 

I am looking forward to watching you make the buckle and attach the initials plate. :thumbsup:

Unfortunately you missed all that because I already did it and the video was lost.

I did bend and shape the tang, then I cut through the with the saw to get a good contact and soldered it.

I soldered the initial plate on and ended up with a finished but unpolished buckle.

Not sure why the volume level would be wrong.   Part of the video was with the video camera onboard sound and the other half was with my usb microphone (it isn't uncommon that I do it exactly the same way)   maybe I shifted a level badly...

 

Thanks for your encouragement by the way.    I guess everyone else isn't sufficiently interested to like or comment but maybe will come out of the woodwork to critique it when its finished.

Yes there is a ridiculous amount of work in this, and thats without me applying perfectionism.   If it was a commercial project I might have remade a few components so far but cost and a "That'll do" attitude means I just plow on.    Even so there is a lot of offering things up... checking if stuff lines up etc.

I ordered some special high speed steel and some diamond tipped drills today... hope the will drill the lugs well when it comes to that.   

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18 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

Unfortunately you missed all that because I already did it and the video was lost.

I did bend and shape the tang, then I cut through the with the saw to get a good contact and soldered it.

I soldered the initial plate on and ended up with a finished but unpolished buckle.

Not sure why the volume level would be wrong.   Part of the video was with the video camera onboard sound and the other half was with my usb microphone (it isn't uncommon that I do it exactly the same way)   maybe I shifted a level badly...

 

Thanks for your encouragement by the way.    I guess everyone else isn't sufficiently interested to like or comment but maybe will come out of the woodwork to critique it when its finished.

Yes there is a ridiculous amount of work in this, and thats without me applying perfectionism.   If it was a commercial project I might have remade a few components so far but cost and a "That'll do" attitude means I just plow on.    Even so there is a lot of offering things up... checking if stuff lines up etc.

I ordered some special high speed steel and some diamond tipped drills today... hope the will drill the lugs well when it comes to that.   

I do enjoy watching your videos  you seem to have a talent for filming them, narrating and explaining what you are doing. I was an engineer and would tackle things in a very different way. Its interesting seeing your organic way of developing the project. Keep it up :thumbsup:

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1 hour ago, Daveyboyz said:

I guess everyone else isn't sufficiently interested to like or comment but maybe will come out of the woodwork to critique it when its finished.

I'm sure I'm not alone in simply watching from afar with a keen interest in the stages, whilst having nothing useful to add. I feel like I'm learning but have nothing to teach, if that makes sense?

 

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1 hour ago, Daveyboyz said:

Unfortunately you missed all that because I already did it and the video was lost.

I did bend and shape the tang, then I cut through the with the saw to get a good contact and soldered it.

I soldered the initial plate on and ended up with a finished but unpolished buckle.

Not sure why the volume level would be wrong.   Part of the video was with the video camera onboard sound and the other half was with my usb microphone (it isn't uncommon that I do it exactly the same way)   maybe I shifted a level badly...

 

Thanks for your encouragement by the way.    I guess everyone else isn't sufficiently interested to like or comment but maybe will come out of the woodwork to critique it when its finished.

Yes there is a ridiculous amount of work in this, and thats without me applying perfectionism.   If it was a commercial project I might have remade a few components so far but cost and a "That'll do" attitude means I just plow on.    Even so there is a lot of offering things up... checking if stuff lines up etc.

I ordered some special high speed steel and some diamond tipped drills today... hope the will drill the lugs well when it comes to that.   

I keep an eye on, like when I like, that sort of thing.

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