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Making my first watch thread.


Daveyboyz
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3 hours ago, Monaque said:

The problem with doing something new is that no matter how much knowledge you have you still can't always see what problems may lie ahead. Sometimes adjusting the design is a necessary evil.

I can see what problems are coming, thats why I will change it.

The only way to harden gold is to work harden, and heating makes it go soft again.  Putting these catches where I wished to detach the lugs I am limited by space between the movement and the edge of the case, if the catches don't spring nicely I could lose the watch.    I am pretty sure I could do it but then I thought about the other issue, lack of adjustability.

 

3 hours ago, Bricey said:

Saw this and thought of your project.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Seiko-Diashock-21-Jewels-6660-6000-Square-28mm-Spares-Repairs-Rare-/334193008005?

Screenshot_20211024-173451_eBay.thumb.jpg.d00bec43abbff5dc4d2a7c86c68f7fc7.jpg

Screenshot_20211024-173507_eBay.thumb.jpg.560494b69e296e4784abce4893cc2f6b.jpg

Screenshot_20211024-173522_eBay.thumb.jpg.922f7fd5e598326dced7dae022ca0c80.jpg

For £25 might be useful as a cheap study guide / template?

 

Well it does share some similarities i  that it is a round face in a square body but mine will have an entirely different strap arrangement.  (Making mine appear rectangular) 

I tend to go back to first principles than somebody else's solution.    I know what I have to do... I just need more fire power at the moment. 

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57 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

I can see what problems are coming, thats why I will change it.

The only way to harden gold is to work harden, and heating makes it go soft again.  Putting these catches where I wished to detach the lugs I am limited by space between the movement and the edge of the case, if the catches don't spring nicely I could lose the watch.    I am pretty sure I could do it but then I thought about the other issue, lack of adjustability.

 

Well it does share some similarities i  that it is a round face in a square body but mine will have an entirely different strap arrangement.  (Making mine appear rectangular) 

I tend to go back to first principles than somebody else's solution.    I know what I have to do... I just need more fire power at the moment. 

My point was you didn't see that particular problem at the beginning, when you were first creating your design, only later when you were building it. We don't always see those problems until they happen during the build, that's when you change things to fix the problem. That was my point.

Anyway, seems like you are sorting it.

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I'm sure you don't need my advice, but as you are using precious metal and are good at soldering, I thought I would mention my experience. Until I was thirty I mainly wore a 1920s Longines with soldered wire lugs. They looked great, but with daily use, having to go to Garrards to have a (surprisingly affordable) new strap sewn on became a regular part of my time at Guys.

My point is, that a dress style watch which is worn relatively little could have elegant and secure fixed lugs if you like :)

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Good news and bad news.

The good news is that I sourced and bought oxygen and propane cylinders... I now have what I need.

The bad news is my metal is returned unmarked.

In the old days it was possible to get flat metals hallmarked under the pretense of "it will be cut into a pendant" but these days are no more.   They only want finished articles.

What this means for a watch in mixed metals I am not sure but it certainly seems to mean I cannot get away with using silver solder on my case and so I have ordered 18ct solder.    Given a pallette costs £100 and I would need multiple hardnesses this works out expensive.   So I simply bought 18ct wire solder in easy and will attempt all joins with the one grade... this will test my skill given how out of practice I am with all this.

Given the sleeve of the watch won't be physically joined to the section with the movement its possible it can be marked after assembly. 

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51 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

Good news and bad news.

The good news is that I sourced and bought oxygen and propane cylinders... I now have what I need.

The bad news is my metal is returned unmarked.

In the old days it was possible to get flat metals hallmarked under the pretense of "it will be cut into a pendant" but these days are no more.   They only want finished articles.

What this means for a watch in mixed metals I am not sure but it certainly seems to mean I cannot get away with using silver solder on my case and so I have ordered 18ct solder.    Given a pallette costs £100 and I would need multiple hardnesses this works out expensive.   So I simply bought 18ct wire solder in easy and will attempt all joins with the one grade... this will test my skill given how out of practice I am with all this.

Given the sleeve of the watch won't be physically joined to the section with the movement its possible it can be marked after assembly. 

If it has mixed metals won't that mean it would be simply referred to as yellow metal? 

I guess this watch will never be sold anyway (perhaps passed down through the family-no clue) and it will always be referred to as "yours". If it was mine, it wouldn't really matter to me if it got hallmarked. I would know exactly what it was made with and how. The watch would be enough.

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16 minutes ago, SolaVeritate said:

If it has mixed metals won't that mean it would be simply referred to as yellow metal? 

I guess this watch will never be sold anyway (perhaps passed down through the family-no clue) and it will always be referred to as "yours". If it was mine, it wouldn't really matter to me if it got hallmarked. I would know exactly what it was made with and how. The watch would be enough.

I tend to agree but I like hallmarks as they date a piece and mark its origins.   This is good for multiple reasons (stops any idea of customs charging me import duty on return from abroad for instance)

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25 minutes ago, Daveyboyz said:

I tend to agree but I like hallmarks as they date a piece and mark its origins.   This is good for multiple reasons (stops any idea of customs charging me import duty on return from abroad for instance)

You could date it yourself but I suppose thats not quite the same.

"Prototype 1 ??-??-??" That's something I would do.

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