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How do you rate these new watch brands?


Dave Cleghan
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  1. Fears - four grand, traditional square cases from a brand originally established in the 1800's, died in quartz crisis era, reestablished in 2016.
  2. Vertex - £2-3 grand pilot style watches.
  3. Bruggler - £3.5 grand chrono's
  4. Ming - Japanese art costing upwards of 5 figures.
  5. Anonimo - £2k watches
  6. Baltic - £500 Chinese made watches
  7. William Wood - 2k watches
  8. Alsta - sub £1k divers
  9. Doxa - sub £1k divers
  10. Farer - £1-2k watches

Now price isn't everything, but no one is sat flicking between browser tabs trying to decide whether to buy a Ming or an Aquascaphe. 

You could break them into 3 separate groups, and rate them against their direct competitors for business, although group 1 would only have Ming in it.

Even within price brackets you are trying to compare vastly different types of watch against each other, which if we all have an example of each in hand we might be able to make some call on quality and finish, but as the majority of us would simply be comparing pictures online, your question ends up being which style of watch does each person prefer.

Edited by Bricey
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2 hours ago, Bricey said:
  1. Fears - four grand, traditional square cases from a brand originally established in the 1800's, died in quartz crisis era, reestablished in 2016.
  2. Vertex - £2-3 grand pilot style watches.
  3. Bruggler - £3.5 grand chrono's
  4. Ming - Japanese art costing upwards of 5 figures.
  5. Anonimo - £2k watches
  6. Baltic - £500 Chinese made watches
  7. William Wood - 2k watches
  8. Alsta - sub £1k divers
  9. Doxa - sub £1k divers
  10. Farer - £1-2k watches

Now price isn't everything, but no one is sat flicking between browser tabs trying to decide whether to buy a Ming or an Aquascaphe. 

You could break them into 3 separate groups, and rate them against their direct competitors for business, although group 1 would only have Ming in it.

Even within price brackets you are trying to compare vastly different types of watch against each other, which if we all have an example of each in hand we might be able to make some call on quality and finish, but as the majority of us would simply be comparing pictures online, your question ends up being which style of watch does each person prefer.

Pretty much nailed it.

Personally it always takes me a while to warm to brands I have not had much experience with/that are not esyltablished.

Doxa is the only established one there and has a reasonable reputation.  Ming has a bit of a cult following but I've never seen one in the flesh and the rest I am pretty much scratching my head thinking why do I need one?  (Given what else is on the market that I am more familiar with)

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Actually, the Ming is a Singaporean watch, at least the main guy there is from Singapore (he's called Ming, so...). I really like the Ming style but then I'm into a bit different. They started with kickstarter and now have an hour or so window where they offer their watches for sale and they disappear faster than a cat on a mouse. Ming is a well known photographer so had a little bit of a head start on the PR side of things when starting it all off, which always helps I think, with these things. The brand is actually a kind of cabal, a group of watchmakers and artists etc, who came together to start a watch brand. They get their watches made in Switzerland, with a well know sub-contractor who's name escapes me now.

Sorry, I'm gabbling on...to be honest, Ming is the only one I know anything about, haven't heard of the others.

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On 25/10/2021 at 22:56, Dave Cleghan said:
  1. Fears
  2. Vertex
  3. Bruggler
  4. Ming
  5. Anonimo
  6. Baltic
  7. William Wood
  8. Alsta
  9. Doxa
  10. Farer

Doxa is nowhere near new. Anonimo is over 20 years old, but I guess it depends on where you draw the line. For me it would be less than 10 years. 

In any case, the only up there I own from are those two and Farer. All are top notch, using top grade movements and materials. 

I've looked at Ming and heard a lot of great things, but they just don't do anything for me at all, especially at the price point. Baltic look decent, but again, not really striking any chords with me. You can add William Wood to that list as well. I don't like their low profile bezels, gives the profile view an awkward look to me that throws the balance out of whack. 

The rest I know nothing about and have zero interest to do so. Too many micros popping up too often, I'm really just tired of them all at this point. 

Edited by JayDeep
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I really like the Fears 1930 small seconds, not sure if I 4 grand like it though against a Tank or Reverso. Seem a really decent company too with their offer to loan a watch F.O.C for a job interview, nice work.

Love Doxas too, the 300T will probably be my next big purchase.

The Farers are really nice too, nearly replaced the Chronoris in my affections but thankfully I held firm!

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Of course at least four of the OP list aren't new, but revived, or should that be resuscitated? :biggrin:

Alsta, made famous by Jaws of course before disappearing under the 1970s waves of quartz coming back to life in 2017. I think they make just the one watch.  Not for me.

Doxa, despite the Cousteau association also swamped by quartz closing in 1980 and revived in the naughties.  It's really a dive-watch-only brand with hallmark bright colours now much copied by Chinese me-too-look 'brands'.  The 200 series is reasonable value, but the rest is expensive I think.  Also doesn't float my boat, I'm afraid (trying to get as many water-based puns in as possible :biggrin:)

Fears, sank in the seventies before the family resurrected the brand in 2017.  They may have first launched in 1846, and the designs are nice, if somewhat high priced, but I can't get past the name I fear...

Vertex was reawakened in 2017 by the family of the original founders/owners.  Nice, attractive, but quite expensive, field watches reviving a back catalogue look.  There's a pleasing authenticity to their output.  If I had the money this is the brand that I'd be most interested in.

 

2017 seems to have been a popular year to relaunch defunct brands :laugh: But good luck to them all.

 

One I've noticed lately is Duckworth Prestex, a family revival of Prestex; established in 1920s, but ceased production in the 1960s...

Duckworth-39mm-Blue-WBG-GN_1024x1024@2x.

 

Edited by RTM Boy
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